Sangiovese

Six kilometres southwest of Montalcino, on calcareous clay soil at an altitude of around 130 metres, lies the Tenuta Pian delle Vigne – has been owned by the Marchesi Antinori since 1995 and has been their personal interpretation of one of Tuscany's biggest names ever since. The 2023 vintage came with a wet spring and a warm, dry summer – a season that demanded patience and rewarded fruit. Harvested from 11 September, by hand, healthy and aromatic. Pure Sangiovese, fermented in stainless steel, matured for twelve months in large wooden barrels: this is intentional, not a compromise. The wine should remain fresh, mineral and easy to drink. And it succeeds very well.

For Casanova di Neri, Rosso di Montalcino is not a by-product of Brunello – it is a task in its own right. The grapes come from specially designated vineyards around the Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino, on soils that receive the same care as the Brunello parcels. Manual harvesting, hand-picking, optical sorter – respect for the material begins in the vineyard. In 2023, Montalcino enjoyed a long, even summer after a mild winter with little rainfall. The bouquet is expressive and floral – small red fruits, tobacco, sweet spices. Spontaneous fermentation in conical steel tanks without added sugar, 18 days of maceration, then 12 months of maturation in wood. A Rosso that knows its place in the programme – and fills it with conviction.

Lamole. Giovanni Manetti has long regarded this zone as one of the most distinctive in Chianti Classico. At an altitude of 620 metres, far from the heart of the region, a few plots of old Sangiovese vines survived the wave of deforestation in the 1970s. Giovanni took cuttings from these Alberello vines from the 1920s to grow his own vines in Panzano: the foundation for Fontodi's quality. This wine is made from seven hectares of Macigno sandstone, whose loose, permeable structure ensures elegance and finesse. Cool nights, long growing season, south-south-west exposure. The sandy soils give the Sangiovese a lightness that is clearly different from the powerful wines from Panzano. Vinification in concrete, certified organic.

Gualtiero Morellino di Scansano Riserva from Morisfarms shows why this traditional family winery is a firm favourite in the Maremma. The cuvée is predominantly based on Sangiovese (Morellino), supplemented by small proportions of international varieties. The vines grow on sun-drenched hills between the Tyrrhenian coast and the cool foothills of Monte Amiata, whose clay and sandy soils lend the wine fruit and structure. Careful manual harvesting was followed by temperature-controlled fermentation, after which the Riserva matured for 12 months in a combination of barriques and large wooden barrels to harmoniously combine elegance and complexity.

Standing in the shadow of great Brunellos is not an easy fate. The San Jacopo knows this fate – and makes the best of it. Fuligni himself calls it a "variation on the theme of Sangiovese", and that is exactly what it is: an elegant deviation from the strict rules, an experiment with freedom. 85% Sangiovese, obtained from younger clones from the various vineyards, meets 15% Merlot from the Bandita estate, where the tuff and clay soils are favourable to the international grape variety. Paolo Vagaggini, Fuligni's Oenologist for decades, vinifies the grapes separately and then blends them into a harmonious whole. Maturation takes place for around seven months in French tonneaux, which give the wine structure without dominating it.

With the acquisition of Tenuta Le Macioche in 2017, the Cotarella family fulfilled a dream: a foothold in prestigious Montalcino. The Sangiovese vines thrive on just 3.5 hectares in the southern quadrant of Sant'Antimo, where Galestro, slate and clay form the subsoil at an altitude of 450 metres. The name of the estate is derived from the Corbezzolo bushes, whose roots are called "macioca" in the Tuscan dialect – a symbol of deep roots in the terroir. The Rosso di Montalcino is the more accessible brother of Brunello, ready to drink earlier: 100 per cent Sangiovese, fermented in stainless steel after selective hand-picking and then matured for twelve months in Liters tonneaux. The Mediterranean climate with continental influences and the strong thermal fluctuations between day and night give the wine its characteristic aromatic precision.

When a winery uses the same label for its Riserva for over sixty years, it is not a lack of imagination – it is a philosophy. Castello di Monsanto's Riserva is considered one of Italy's oldest labels still in continuous production. The label was around even before Chianti Classico became an appellation. It has survived decades and changing fashions – and it encapsulates what Monsanto stands for: a commitment to Sangiovese. The estate is situated in San Donato in Poggio, the westernmost sub-region of Chianti Classico, at an altitude of 280 to 320 metres. Galestro – a slate-rich, barren and mineral-rich soil – is the terrain in which the Sangiovese vines from four vineyards take root.

Canalicchio di Sopras Rosso di Montalcino comes mainly from the vineyards of the Cru Canalicchio with soils that have a pronounced clay component and are very rich in intermediate elements such as magnesium, iron and manganese. Depending on the vintage and climate, a small proportion may also come from the Cru Montosoli, where the presence of marl ensures juiciness and minerality.

In 1971, Giovanni Neri bought Podere Casanova, east of Montalcino – a grain merchant from Montevarchi, fascinated by the austerity of the Sangiovese grape, these hills and their unpredictability. What he could not have known was that his son Giacomo, his grandson Gianlorenzo and his family would go on to establish one of the most distinctive estates in the entire appellation from these slopes. The Rosso di Montalcino is their first expression. 100% Sangiovese, a massale selection from their own vines – not a clone, but a genetic fingerprint of the estate. Spontaneous fermentation, 18 days' maceration, 12 months' ageing in wood. 2024 was a fresh, structured vintage in Montalcino, with good acidity and clear fruit – the Rosso carries it off with ease.

Petra – the name means "stone" and symbolises the solidity with which Vittorio and Francesca Moretti are realising their Tuscan project in the Maremma. The winery was only opened in 2003 and was designed by Swiss star architect Mario Botta as a circular masterpiece. While perlage reigns supreme in Franciacorta (near Bellavista), it is the great red wines of the Val di Cornia that attract international attention here. Alto is Petra's monovarietal answer to the question of what Sangiovese is capable of achieving in this iron-rich, Mediterranean terroir. Experimental research meets Tuscany's oldest grape variety. The grapes are hand-picked and vinified according to the principle of gravity – mechanical stress is consistently avoided. The wine is matured in oak barrels, followed by further ageing in the bottle.

Rossofonte is no ordinary Rosso. It is a rigorous selection from a single vineyard, as close to Brunello as the appellation allows. Since the first vintage (2014), it has shown what Sangiovese can achieve in Castelnuovo dell'Abate if it is given time and attention. Hand-picked grapes, extended ageing in Slavonian oak barrels. Wild cherry, ripe berries, balsamic notes of tobacco, cedar wood, mint and lavender on the nose. On the palate, sweetness and acidity alternate in an elegant interplay, fine, powdery tannins carry the final with nuances of star anise and pink pepper. A convincing and deep Rosso with Brunello ambitions. SUPERIORE.DE

Wine has been produced here since 1051 – initially by monks, and since 1846 by the Stucchi Prinetti family, now in its seventh generation. Badia a Coltibuono, the ‘Abbey of the Good Harvest’, was the first leading winery in Chianti to switch entirely to organic cultivation. The Riserva is made from massalblend of Sangiovese and historic complementary varieties such as Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo, grown on the highest hills near Gaiole. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, three weeks’ contact with the skins, followed by 24 months in French and Austrian oak barrels. The 2021 vintage benefited from a cool year with late frosts – lower yields, but concentrated quality.

Between the hills of Gaiole and Radda in Chianti, at an altitude of 460 to 525 metres, lies one of the most extraordinary wine estates in Tuscany. Since 1982, Marco Pallanti and Lorenza Sebasti have shaped the fortunes of Castello di Ama – a winemaking couple who have helped Chianti Classico achieve worldwide recognition. "Ama" was created in 2010 with the introduction of the Gran Selezione as an independent line and represents the essence of the estate's younger Sangiovese clones. Made from 96% Sangiovese and 4% Merlot, the wine comes from densely planted vineyards on chalky, clayey soils. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts and matured for twelve months in second-use barriques.

In 1090, while Leif Erikson was discovering America and the first universities in Europe were being established, two friends of Abbot Rolando paid "two capons, three loaves of bread and six silver denarii from Lucca" for the annual lease of a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. Nine hundred (Novecento) years later, in 1990, this wine was created as a reminiscence of the incredible journey through the centuries. The grapes thrive between 300 and 420 metres above sea level on stony soils of marl, limestone and galestro. The vines, which are on average 15 years old and cultivated organically as in the early days of this domain, undergo a 14-day spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement vats before maturing for 18 months in large, unroasted French Allier oak barrels.

It was Luigi Veronelli, the Italian wine revolutionary of the 60s and 70s, who convinced Francesco Giuntini that exceptional single vineyards deserve their own voice. Of all the old Poderi from the Mezzadria period, Bucerchiale has always been the best – a south-west facing amphitheatre in the cooler heights of Rufina, where Tuscany approaches the last foothills of the Apennines. Francesco took the plunge in 1979. While the law still stipulated Trebbiano in every Chianti and the wine world favoured quantity, he produced defiant resistance from pure Sangiovese. A 100 per cent Sangiovese from a single vineyard – a revolutionary act at the time that marked the beginning of the Tuscan Renaissance. In 2022, Vigneto Bucerchiale celebrates its 43rd year and embodies a perfect vision. Spontaneous fermentation in steel tanks at 30-32°C with 30 days of maceration allows every nuance of the terroir to unfold before the wine matures 50 per cent in French oak barrels of 25 hl and 50 per cent in barriques – only 15 per cent of which is new.

Gauggiole comes from a single vineyard in the north-east of the Castiglion del Bosco estate and is vinified exclusively in concrete barrels. Bright, lively red. On the nose, fresh red berry fruits with delicate herbal notes. Well structured in the mouth with cool red fruit flavours like cherry, floral nuances of violet and peppery notes on the finish. Well balanced on the palate with fine tannins and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A declaration of love for Tuscany is how the Ferragamos describe their most pure expression. The Vigna Polissena lies on slate soils with perfect drainage, a terroir made for Sangiovese. James Suckling once compared the wines produced here to the best Brunellos. The must rests on the skins for twenty-two days before being transferred to Allier barriques – a third of which are new. For eighteen months, the wood moulds the structure without masking the character. A further six months in steel give the wine time to find its feet.

While the Chianti Classico Ruspoli Annata shows the accessible, fresh side of Lilliano, the Riserva reveals the depth and maturity that lie dormant in the estate's best parcels. Selected only in outstanding years and from the Tenuta's best vineyards, it represents the potential of the Sangiovese grape on the chalky Alberese soils of Castellina in Chianti. The 2020 vintage is considered exceptional in Tuscany: balanced temperatures, moderate rainfall and a long, warm autumn allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly. The cuvée of 95 per cent Sangiovese and five per cent Merlot is fermented in small stainless steel and cement tanks after selective hand-picking before the wine matures for 14 to 15 months in large French oak barrels – a conscious decision in favour of traditional ageing, which gives the Sangiovese structure without dominating it. A further six months of bottle ageing round off the development.

Cellole Gran Selezione impresses with its usual elegance and sophistication. Its masterfully balanced flavour profile of wild berry and blackberry with cassis, blueberry and candied rose is fantastic. On closer inspection, the wine reveals orange peel, rosemary and iron ore. It is a silky and elegant wine with some firm tannin, lots of bright fruit and a hint of crisp acidity. Undoubtedly a great wine with great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

A commitment, not a compromise: while other Chianti producers have long favoured international varieties, Castellare di Castellina sticks to the authentic formula. No Cabernet, no Merlot – only Sangioveto and Canaiolo, as tradition demands. The grapes for this Riserva ripen in a natural amphitheatre near Castellina, on limestone and galestro between 350 and 400 metres above sea level. Fifteen months in French oak, a further fifteen in the bottle – time enough to mould character without disguising origin.

Medium ruby red. Opens with ripe fruit notes of redcurrants, wild cherries and dried raspberries, then grilled herbs and liquorice in the background. This Rosso is more powerful and opulent than many of its competitors, almost reaching the intensity of a Brunello. Nevertheless, the aromas are more precise than one would expect from a young red wine. The delicate tannin has reached a certain stage of maturity and finds a lively ally in the well-proportioned acidity, which keeps the flavour development going for all eternity. SUPERIORE.DE

Castellares dessert wine matures for five long years in chestnut wood caratelli, with just 3,500 bottles going on sale each year. Deep honey yellow in colour. The bouquet is reminiscent of wild porcini mushrooms, candied fruit with honey and caramel. Seductive and soft on the palate, the well-developed acidity not only ensures a wonderfully fresh drinking flow, but also gives this fine wine a great future. SUPERIORE.DE