Sangiovese

"The authentic Vin Santo of Chianti Classico. Neither too dry nor too sweet" – this is how Castellare itself describes this wine, with a standard that knows no compromise. The grapes, predominantly Malvasia Bianca with a small proportion of Trebbiano, are not dried on reed mats, as is customary elsewhere, but are hung in ventilated rooms – a deliberate choice in favour of the stricter, more traditional variant of this centuries-old process. The wine is then aged in small caratelli barrels, whose yeast cultures are between twenty and thirty years old – a living legacy that imbues each new vintage with the accumulated complexity of decades of tradition. The vines are located near Castellina in Chianti, at an altitude of 350 to 400 metres.

A wine that bears its creator in its name: "Birba" – little cheeky bastard – is what they called Sergio Rossi, the visionary founder of La Gerla. What began as an experiment became a homage: a Brunello that follows all the rules except those of the wooden barrel. Instead of maturing in the large Slavonian vats like its noble siblings, the Birba spends up to fourteen months in French barriques from Allier and the Vosges, a third of which are new – a third of them new. The thirty-year-old vines on the slopes of Canalicchio, between 270 and 320 metres above sea level, produce tiny yields of just 50 quintals per hectare. Fifteen days of maceration extract substance and depth before the wood leaves its spicy signature.

What distinguishes a Riserva from an Annata? Time. Time to select the best Sangiovese grapes from the estate's twelve plots. Time for a 25-day vinification process that is conducted with the utmost respect for tradition. And time for at least 21 months in French oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before the wine leaves the estate.

In 1962, Egidio Corradi bought two neglected poderi in Cervognano – a Genovese broker who had spent most of his life away from Tuscany, but had always known where he wanted to return. Boscarelli's first bottle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appeared in 1968. Since then, this main line has hardly changed in terms of composition and ageing. This is not hesitation – it is conviction. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo, from vines over 10 years old on the red, sandy, mineral-rich soils of Cervognano, 280 to 350 metres, east-facing, 6,500 vines per hectare.

Tenuta Campogiovanni is situated on the southern slope of Montalcino – —an aspect that gives the Sangiovese warmth, earlier ripening and a natural approachability that cooler sites do not offer. San Felice developed this site in the second half of the 1990s: six hectares of Sangiovese, planted specifically for the Rosso di Montalcino DOC, on medium-heavy silty-sandy soils over sandstone and calcareous marl, facing south to south-east at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres. 2024 began with a mild, dry winter and a spring with regular rainfall, which ensured good flowering. The very hot summer – — particularly August – slowed down ripening; the harvest did not begin until the second week of September. Autumn rain necessitated careful selection in the vineyard. The result: elegant aromas, well-integrated tannins, moderate alcohol and balanced acidity. A vintage characterised by freshness and early drinkability.

The name reveals the location, the location reveals the wine. Banditella – a vineyard on the southern slope of the Sant'Angelo hill, 250 to 300 metres above the Orcia Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. Col d'Orcia planted Sangiovese clones here in 1998, which were selected over ten years of research in collaboration with the University of Florence – not just any clones, but those that most accurately express the terroir of Montalcino. Biodynamically farmed, limestone soils with little clay, full southern sun: the conditions could hardly be better. The 2022 vintage demanded decisiveness: temperature fluctuations and late summer rains called for an early, forward-looking harvest at the beginning of September. The grapes were placed in shallow, wide steel tanks – a design that favours gentle extraction – where they macerated at 25°C, accompanied by daily pumping over and délestage. Twelve months in Allier barriques and tonneaux followed before the wine was bottled.

In 1970, Siro Pacenti planted his first vines on the Pelagrilli slope north of Montalcino – on sandy-loamy soils, rich in minerals and favoured by the cooling westerly winds of the hills. Since 1988, his son Giancarlo has managed the estate with a precision that he learnt in Bordeaux and has applied to the Sangiovese Grosso of Montalcino ever since: harvest to the exact parcel, gentle extraction, ageing in small French barriques – not for flavour, but for purity. The Rosso comes from vines between 15 and 25 years old, twelve months in the barrel, unfiltered in the bottle – with the express recommendation to decant.

Fiumana di Predappio – sangiovese has had its home here since the Middle Ages. The estate's lowest vineyards between 80 and 150 metres provide the grapes for the Federico, named after the family's long-time employee. Fermentation and nine months of ageing take place 70% in stainless steel and 30% in oak wood – enough structure without masking the fruit. Bright ruby red colour. The nose literally leaps out of the glass: fresh cherries, raspberries, a hint of herbs and violets. Lean and juicy on the palate, with fine tannins that invite you to take another sip. A charming Sangiovese that does not make you ponder, but is a pleasure to drink – uncomplicated in the best sense of the word, certified organic and exactly what an everyday wine should be. SUPERIORE.DE

The name says it all: Badilante pays tribute to the workers who, for generations, used their spades to drain and cultivate the marshy lands of the Maremma. Simone Castelli, son of the legendary OenologistMaurizio, vinifies this single-varietal Sangiovese at the organically farmed Podere 414 vineyard near Scansano. The grapes grow at an altitude of 230 metres in loamy-clay soils with a high proportion of coarse material. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete, 15–18 days’ maceration with délestage and remontage, followed by ageing partly in concrete and partly in wood.

Crognolo is a wonderfully balanced wine that offers the tangy freshness and acidity of Sangiovese, which is balanced and softened by the small proportion of Merlot. The wine smells of cherry, blackberry and plum. Its primary intensity is bright and cheerful. The juicy finish shows a nice density, extraction and well-integrated tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

The oldest documents in the family archive date from the mid-16th century. In 1967, Lisini was one of the 24 founding members of the Brunello Consortium. One of the oldest and most enduring estates in the appellation – and one of the most stylistically distinctive, as Sant'Angelo in Colle has its own unique character. The vineyards are situated in southern Montalcino, between the hamlets of Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, at an altitude of 300 to 350 metres, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin. The warm Maremma winds, which blow in daily from the coast, shape the microclimate: ripe fruit, Mediterranean warmth, yet a freshness that other sites simply do not offer.

One name is making a name for itself: Vallenuova, previously the estate's entry-level Chianti, will become a Riserva with the 2023 vintage. The vineyard, which surrounds the estate like a natural amphitheatre, bears the name of the locality – still today Tolaini's official address in Castelnuovo Berardenga. What is changing is the ageing period: instead of ten months, the Riserva now matures for considerably longer in a trio of Tuscan, Slavonian and Austrian oak before spending a further few months in the bottle. The base is now also clearly defined: 100% Sangiovese from silty-clay soils with limestone and stones. Double selection – by hand in the vineyard, visually in the cellar – 20 days' maceration, temperature-controlled fermentation.

At Podere le Ripi, the grapes for the Rosso di Montalcino are given more time in the cellar than elsewhere, making the wine more similar to a Brunello than a Rosso. Deep ruby red in colour with orange reflections. A captivating symphony of aromas on the nose, ranging from cherry, strawberry and violet to fresh balsamic herbs. On the palate, an impressive, broad structure, beautifully interwoven primary and secondary flavours, a fine minerality and a remarkably long finish. The longer ageing period really pays off! SUPERIORE.DE

Produced in just 6,000 bottles per vintage, Godenza from the vineyard of the same name undergoes spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by temperature-controlled maceration in stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation, it then matures for 12 months in cement vats and at least 9 months in the bottle. Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, it is characterised by its complex and open bouquet with aromas of small red berries and spices. On the palate, it is firm and clear with a wonderful balance between acidity and ripe flavours and has a very respectable, slightly salty and spicy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1966, when the Italian wine industry was at a crossroads, Domenico Poggiali took a bold step and acquired the then-neglected estates of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Subsequently, and right up to the present day, this adventure has been turned into a legend by his son-in-law, Giuseppe Mazzocolin, a professor of humanities and friend of Luigi Veronelli. Together with the young OenologistFranco Bernabei, they created the first Berardenga in 1967 – a Sangiovese that embodies the true essence of south-eastern Chianti Classico. The vineyards stretch across the geologically diverse terraces at altitudes between 320 and 420 metres, where quartz-rich sandstone and calcareous Alberese in the higher elevations meet sandstone and loam as one descends towards the Crete Senesi. This "Terra di Confine" – the borderland between Chianti Classico and the Colli Senesi – shapes its unmistakable character.

1968 – three years before Sassicaia changed the world – san Felice created Vigorello: the first Chianti Classico wine produced without the white grape varieties that were mandatory at the time, made exclusively from red varieties. A quiet revolution that instilled in the estate a sense of what was possible, which continues to shape its identity to this day. An expression of this identity is the Vitiarium, a research project spanning over twenty years dedicated to the rediscovery and preservation of indigenous Tuscan grape varieties. One of these is the Pugnitello: its name means ‘little fist’, referring to the compact, fist-shaped bunches. Almost extinct, preserved by San Felice, it is now an integral part of the Borgo. Sangiovese and Pugnitello, grown on medium-heavy calcareous-marly soils near the medieval Borgo, are vinified separately in stainless steel and only come together during ageing: twelve months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Le Potazzine: this is the name given in Montalcino dialect to the little tits that flutter through the vineyards. It was the pet name given by a grandmother to her lively granddaughters: Viola and Sofia. Today, together with their mother Gigliola Giannetti, the two run one of the most purist wineries in the appellation. The vines grow at an altitude of 450 to 530 metres – sites that were once considered too cool and are now considered a blessing. This Sangiovese is the youthful entry: pure stainless steel ageing, twelve months, no oak, just the grape.

Cristina Geminiani is one of the leading figures behind the revitalisation of Romagna DOC. In 1985, she began making wine on her grandfather's estate, Fattoria Zerbina. Her wines have personality and technical precision. The vineyards are planted as bush vines in the Marzeno subzone. The Pietramora has an elegant, restrained nose of dark plums, black cherries, dried roses, cocoa and tobacco. On the palate, it displays rich and intense fruit with grippy tannins balanced by zesty acidity, with a lingering, savoury finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Uccelliera's Rosso di Montalcino slowly comes to life with a beguiling blend of mentholated herbs, pine shavings and dried strawberries. It glides over the palate with a texture of pure silk, caressing everything it touches with ripe red fruits and rosy flowers accompanied by a lively acidity. Structured, powerful and long on the final – as always, it far exceeds its weight class and is a top-class Rosso di Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

San Filippo is located in the east of Montalcino – the part of the region known for its particular elegance and longevity. Roberto Giannelli, who acquired the winery in 2003 and has consistently favoured organic cultivation and minimal wood intervention ever since, has developed a style with Oenologist Paolo Caciorgna that shows Sangiovese Grosso in its purest form. Lo Scorno is the opening to the first movement – accessible, direct and full of character.

After the difficult 2023, 2024 presented a different challenge: rainy spring, dry midsummer, then eight days of rain in September just before the harvest. Not a vintage for comfort. Siro Pacenti – with his clearly defined plots, old vines in the Pelagrilli clay loam and the determined craftsmanship of Giancarlo Pacenti – selected more than usual this year in order to preserve what is typical.

Mastrojannis' rich and concentrated Rosso di Montalcino offers a dark, alluring bouquet of sweet herbs, menthol and tobacco, which blend with notes of dried cherries and redcurrants. It soothes with a deep, silky texture, which gives way to tart red berries and piquant spices, underpinned by a lively acidity. It finishes with a balsamic note, featuring a hint of tart citrus and sweet, polished tannins that beautifully round off the experience. SUPERIORE.DE