Sangiovese

Altesino has undoubtedly helped write the history of Brunello. The house was the first to introduce the cru concept in Montalcino, the first to introduce barrique ageing for IGT wines – and was the first to offer its Brunello for subscription. And yet the Annata Brunello is the most honest proof of what Altesino stands for: a style that aims for elegance and finesse, not power for its own sake. Four parcels – altesino, Castelnuovo dell'Abate, Macina and Pianezzine – give the wine its foundation: 100% Sangiovese Grosso from older vines on pliocenic, clay-sandy soils in the eastern hills of Montalcino, at 220 to 280 metres.

When Sergio Rossi took over Podere Colombaio from the Biondi-Santi family in 1976, nobody could have guessed that the Milanese advertising expert would become one of the architects of modern Montalcino. He was one of the 24 founders of the Consorzio, one of the first 35 Brunello bottlers of an appellation that will number over 250 by 2024. What he brought with him: the legendary Sangiovese clones of Biondi-Santi, planted on marl and limestone in Canalicchio – vines that are now over forty years old. Brunello 2020 unites two souls: the cool elegance of the north from the historic Canalicchio parcels and the sun-kissed vigour of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. The wine rests for three years in large Slavonian barrels and a further eight months in the bottle – time that you can taste.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Deep bouquet of rich blackberry and cherry flavours with mentholated herbal notes that give it lift, while notes of cedar and clove develop in the glass. On the palate, the wine is a pure silk that slowly lays over the palate, with an admirable density and weight balanced by bright acidity and minerality. This still very young wine is full of potential with a core of dark primary fruit that already offers a good foretaste of the charm of later years. A finely woven tannin structure on the long final. Wonderful ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A white gravel track leads to the estate; it is narrow but not difficult to navigate, winding through a dense forest of holm oaks and oaks. In the north of Chianti Classico, near Gaiole in Chianti, lies the Vertine vineyard, guarded for centuries by a castle: three hectares laid out in a fan-shaped pattern on a hill at an altitude of 500 metres, open to the south and south-west. The soil consists of galestro and alberese, rich in stones, forcing the Sangiovese roots to reach deep down. The grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates, followed by a second selection at the sorting table. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks, where the wine remains for 12 months; it is then aged for a further year in the bottle before leaving the estate.

Asinone, which has been bottled separately by the estate since 1983 and is one of the very first recognised single-vineyard wines in Tuscany, is situated on the south-south-west-facing slope between Montepulciano and Torrita di Siena. At an altitude of 380 to 400 metres, the soil consists of blue clay of marine origin, interspersed with pebbles and rich in magnesium and iron: a soil that forces the roots to dig deep and compels the Prugnolo Gentile grapes to concentrate their flavours. The vines are between 30 and 50 years old. Small berries, thick skins – plenty of structure in a small space. And Federico Carletti has consistently steered Asinone away from the barrique aesthetic: it matures for 16 to 18 months in French tonneaux, with the wood providing support rather than dominating.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: Monika and Thomas Bär-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti since 1990. The Rubiolo 30 anni is a certified organic homage to three decades of winegrowing in one of the most beautiful terroirs in Tuscany. Made from pure Sangiovese grapes from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine epitomises the synthesis of two exceptional sites. The grapes ripen on soils rich in galestro between 350 and 450 metres above sea level, facing south-west, where the centuries-old dry stone walls – uNESCO World Heritage Site since 2019 – between vines, olive trees and roses create a unique microclimate. After temperature-controlled fermentation with indigenous yeasts and 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for ten months, half in French barriques and half in concrete tanks, followed by three months of bottle ageing.

Located in the south of Montalcino, Ciacci Piccolomini's sprawling estate is characterised by warm, fragrant afternoon breezes from the Mediterranean. The wines are typically very fragrant and have a higher alcohol content, but also plenty of freshness and focus. In the aromas we find sun-kissed cherries and raspberries, red roses, tobacco, sage and thyme. Light-footed on the palate with grainy tannins that dissolve easily, this wine is already very accessible. It is literally fuelled by the golden light that falls on this part of Tuscany in the last hours of the day. A wine full of personality and identity. SUPERIORE.DE

The Riserva represents the roots of Fattoria Le Pupille – it is the very first wine the estate produced and marketed. Originally launched in 1978 as "Rosso di Pereta", it became the cornerstone of a terroir – following the establishment of the Morellino di Scansano appellation regulations – which Elisabetta Geppetti guided to international recognition with passion and vision. As the first woman to head the Consorzio Morellino di Scansano, she shaped not only the appellation but the entire wine culture of the Maremma. Sangiovese (90%) blended with Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) from the La Carla, Maiano, Bozzino and Vecchie Pupille, at altitudes of 50 to 250 metres. The soils vary from clay-silt to sandy loam with a significant limestone-marl component. After 25 to 30 days' maceration at 26 degrees, the wine is aged for twelve months in Slavonian oak casks with a capacity of 20 to 40 hectolitres.

The vineyard on the western side of the Montalcino hills is so secluded that you can enjoy the starry sky to the full without being disturbed. It is therefore not surprising that this supple, very classic Brunello bears the name "Sky of Ulysses". As is well known, Odysseus had the ability to navigate the seas without a compass and by simply orientating himself by the stars.

This impressive red comes from the single vineyard "Vitticciana", which was created by the "Godfather of Carmignano" Ugo Contini Bonacossi especially for a pure Sangiovese wine due to its perfect orientation. It is only produced in the best years, when it presents itself as a multi-layered wine with fine fruit and fine-grained tannins. After a few years of ageing in the bottle, it can easily hold its own with some of the best Brunello di Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

Francesco Illy came to Montalcino as a nature photographer – and stayed. What began in 1997 as a personal project is now one of the most exciting biodynamic estates in the appellation. Demeter-certified, run by a young team, with a philosophy that sees no contradiction between perfection and joie de vivre. The "Cielo d'Ulisse" – the sky of Odysseus – comes from the western plots of Montalcino, near Camigliano. Loamy-sandy soils with a touch of galestro, evening sun and a cool, wooded climate: a combination that lends Sangiovese freshness and elegance rather than power. Fermentation is spontaneous, and the wine is aged for three years in large, second-hand Slavonian oak barrels.

Here comes the new top Gran Selezione from San Felice: intense ruby red in colour, with broad and persistent aromas on the nose. Notes of violets and blackcurrants mingle with a sweet spiciness of tobacco and liquorice. Full-bodied, supple, well-structured wine, characterised by ripe and juicy tannins that harmonise with the acidic component. SUPERIORE.DE

1976: A young man called Gordon Sumner sits in a small flat in Newcastle, with no money, no prospects, nothing but an acoustic guitar and a dream. He writes a song about the magic that emanates from a woman – about those small gestures that enchant the everyday. When he later plays the song to his future bandmates, they wave it off: too soft, too gentle for the rough punk sound that London is currently celebrating. The song goes into the drawer. Five years later, when The Police had long since become global stars, they brought it out again. "Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic" becomes a number one hit in four countries and wins the Ivor Novello Award.

Production at the Pertimali estate was down 20% due to the spring frost, and the decision was made to pour all the juice normally destined for the Riserva into the pure Brunello, resulting in one of the top wines of the vintage.

Adine slopes steeply southwards, in terraces, over a height of more than 500 metres, below the cellar. The highest terrace is called Punta, and this Sangiovese comes from there; the estate only bottles it in the very best vintages. Beneath the vines lies rock dating from before the Eocene epoch, around 100 million years old: clay-rich limestone, once the seabed, of medium texture, full of stones, deep and loose. It conducts heat well, the light falls perfectly, and the estate regards it as the ideal site for bringing out the elegance, complexity and longevity of the Sangiovese grape. Harvested by hand, fermented in concrete tanks, then aged for 18 months in Austrian oak barrels with a capacity of 2,500 Liters, before being stored for extended bottle ageing. The 2021 vintage was favourable: good rainfall in spring, no water stress in summer, significant temperature variations between day and night in August, and harvesting from the second half of September.

The estate is situated at an altitude of 320 metres, right on the hill of Montalcino, and in its cellar, beneath a 15th-century tower, large Slavonian oak casks rest alongside the finest bottles dating back to the 1976 vintage. In that same year, former advertising executive Sergio Rossi purchased the Colombaio, which had previously belonged to the Biondi Santi family, and renovated it from the ground up. He died in 2011; his wife, Donatella Monforte, continues his legacy, whilst Oenologist Vittorio Fiore has been with the estate since the very beginning. The 11.5 hectares of vines, exclusively Sangiovese Grosso, are situated on either side of the hill, near Canalicchio in the north-east and near Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south-east. The vines are on average 30 years old; the grapes are harvested by hand, and only the very best are selected at harvest. Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature of 30 degrees in stainless steel tanks, with the wine remaining on the skins for around 15 days. The wine is then aged for at least 24 months in 50- and 100-hectolitre barrels, followed by a further twelve months in the bottle.

Pelagrilli is the origin – the name of the hillside north-east of Montalcino, which Siro Pacenti acquired in 1970, and at the same time the name of the flagship Brunello that his son Giancarlo has been vinifying since 1988. On sandy-loamy soils, channelling the cooling westerly winds, between 25 and 40-year-old vines, a Brunello is created here that combines Giancarlo's mathematical precision and his Bordeaux experience: fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, 24 months in small French barriques – not for flavour, but for purity. 2020 was a warm, dry summer – sangiovese under pressure, which, where well managed, turned into concentrated, supple fruit. The northern slope of Pelagrilli absorbed the heat better than the southern sites; the harvest began in mid-September under good conditions.

Vigna San Marcellino Gran Selezione is both youthfully fresh and ripe and complexly muscular. It contains a healthy dose of the deeply coloured Pugnitello grape, and on the nose liquorice, tarragon and broom mingle with lush plum and subtle roasted aromas that are highly seductive in their complexity. Deep, taut and lively on the palate, loaded with black cherry and rich, velvety tannins. The texture is silky, while subtle chalky notes and a salty minerality give it plenty of energy and lead it into a juicy, refreshing finish. Vigna San Marcellino is a convincing wine with enormous ageing potential every year. SUPERIORE.DE

In the past, the northern slope of Montalcino was not planted with vines, but was cultivated with cereals, olives and cherries. In this area influenced by the Apennines, the seasons are more pronounced, continental and the north wind significantly lowers the temperature in winter. It is therefore the coldest Brunello region at this time of year, but also the wettest. This northern slope is a gentle hill: a characteristic that is more reminiscent of the Crete Senesi area, right next door, than the two stiffer, steeper and warmer southern slopes of Montalcino.

With this exceptional Chianti Classico Riserva, the Mazzei family celebrates their famous ancestor Ser Lapo, in whose writings the name "Chianti" is mentioned for the first time. The upper part of the label features a faithful reproduction of one of his writings (from 1398) with beautiful calligraphy. "Don't worry about the cost of this wine, even though it was expensive: its quality will make up for it."

This red wine in Riserva quality is dedicated to Bettino Ricasoli, who wrote down the grape variety mix of today's Chianti back in 1872. But he was much more than that: twice Prime Minister of the united Italy (1861 and 1866), founder of the daily newspaper "La Nazione", agricultural researcher and "father" of the first Chianti product specification. The creation of this wine interprets his tireless determination to create an independent Chianti style that is both traditional and contemporary to this day.