Sangiovese

A Gran Selezione is strictly defined in the production regulations: only grapes from the estate's own vineyards, a minimum of 30 months' ageing, and a more rigorous assessment by the Consorzio's commission than for any Riserva. At Vecchie Terre di Montefili, this requirement begins right from the selection process in the cellar: Every year, Serena Gusmeri selects from the best plots of the 12.5-hectare estate those barrels which, when combined, yield a better result than any single vineyard on its own – an approach that is rarely pursued so consistently in Panzano. The grapes grow at altitudes of between 480 and 550 metres on Galestro and Alberese soils with limestone and clay inclusions, which give the Sangiovese its structure long before the wine even enters the cellar. There, following spontaneous fermentation, the wine matures in large, used wooden barrels for considerably longer than the production regulations require; as is the case throughout the estate, barriques are not used.

It was almost a silent revolution when Michele Satta decided to set the stage for Sangiovese in Bolgheri. While all around him his illustrious neighbours – sassicaia, Ornellaia, Guado al Tasso – were dancing the international Bordeaux party, the non-conformist from Varese dared to do the unthinkable: he planted the pure Tuscan soul in an appellation that was supposed to breathe French elegance. Cavaliere – the knight – does not bear this name by chance. It is Michele Satta's personal crusade for the grape variety that he reveres as "Tuscany's emblem of elegance and nobility". Today, he is the only producer in Bolgheri who takes on this challenge with the same passion as the international varieties.

Vintages write wine history – and 2021 is deeply engraved in Montalcino. Extreme drought, intense sunshine, nights that remained cool despite everything: The Sangiovese vines responded with concentrated, aromatically dense grapes that yielded little but showed a clear signature. For La Quinta, the wine from Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres above the Castello di Sant'Angelo in Colle, this meant an emphatic vintage. The vinification follows the tried and tested rhythm: 7 days of fermentation in steel, 13 days of maceration, then a year of ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay, before the wine is left to rest in cement and finally matures for at least 6 months in the bottle.

Those who sow elegance must negotiate with the climate. The weather in 2022 was a tough negotiator in Montalcino: persistent drought, periods of heat, hardly any rainfall in the crucial summer months. The wines that emerged from this year are characterised by this – concentrated, structured, deep in fruit, with tannins that will need time. La Quinta originated, as always, from the fifth vineyard of Podere Giodo at an altitude of 400 metres – medium-gravel soils, south-easterly exposure, pure Sangiovese. Fermentation in steel for 7 days, maceration for 13 days. The 12-month wood ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and the characteristic Cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay remains the stylistic backbone of the wine – an ageing process that integrates textures rather than imposing wood.

The grapes for Istine's iconic Riserva come exclusively from the estate's own vineyards: Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole). Only 4,000 bottles of this breathtaking wine, which is aged for 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, are bottled each year. A rich, luminous ruby red with a sparkling core. The bouquet displays its complexity with aristocratic restraint. A compact and fresh, fruity nose of ripe cherries and ripe raspberries, with Amarena cherries and hints of tobacco in the background. Medium-bodied on the palate, yet with infinite, captivating depth just waiting to be discovered. It then spreads beautifully across the palate, appearing almost juicy and fruit-driven, and continues to open up towards its terrific finalwith crisp cherries and a subtle hint of salt. Purists will love its linear and unmistakable Sangiovese character. SUPERIORE.DE

Difficult vintages make honest wines. 2023 presented Tuscany with unusual challenges: a cool, rainy spring with peronospora pressure, hail damage in parts of the region, followed by a hot summer. In Montalcino, the favourable protective effect of Monte Amiata and the altitude came together in a positive way: Where the conditions were right, wines of surprising lightness and floral freshness were produced – less powerful than last year's vintage, but with a grace that becomes a strength in good hands. Carla Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres also yielded single-varietal Sangiovese in 2023, which was vinified according to a tried-and-tested method: 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration, 12 months of ageing in tonneaux, oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounding off in cement, 6 months in the bottle. A rhythm that allows the wine to tell the story of the vintage – without correcting it.

26 generations, since 1385 – no other estate in the world of wine can boast such an unbroken history. And yet the Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva label is not a museum piece, but a living testament: since the 2011 vintage, produced exclusively from the vineyards of Tenuta Tignanello, the estate nestled between the Greve and Pesa river valleys, which has shaped 20th-century Tuscan wine history more than any other patch of land in Chianti Classico. 319 hectares, of which 165 hectares are under vine – predominantly Sangiovese, supplemented by small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

On the nose, ripe plum, baking spice, menthol and new leather. On the elegantly structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pepper and liquorice accentuate a core of juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry, supported by a backbone of taut, refined tannins. The fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Racy and seductive. SUPERIORE.DE

In April 2021, temperatures in Montalcino dropped below zero. The vines, which had already begun to bud, were hit by the frost. What followed was a season of recovery: a rainy spring gave the vines the strength they needed to withstand a long, hot summer. Significant temperature fluctuations between day and night preserved freshness and aromatic precision. The harvest: concentrated, fragrant, healthy. In Montalcino, 2021 is regarded as a classic, elegant vintage. Not the opulence of 2019, nor the concentration of 2020, but balance. 100% Sangiovese, organically grown, spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels (30 and 54 hectolitres), at least 6 months in bottle.

This rare, artisanal grappa from Felsina is crafted from the finest Sangiovese pomace from the legendary Fontalloro estate. The fresh, carefully selected vinacce are distilled using traditional steam distillation in a discontinuous copper still (Brennhut), a centuries-old art that achieves the highest concentration whilst preserving elegance. Following gentle distillation, the grappa is aged for approximately 10 years in small oak casks, relying on natural decanting without chilling or mechanical filtration. This patient ageing process respects the delicate balances that develop during the long period of rest in the casks. A mark of true mastery.

The top-quality Vigneto Erchi Riserva comes from the small vineyard of the same name, which has belonged to Fattoria Selvapiana since 1998. The owners spent a long time searching for a vineyard whose terroir impressively demonstrates the complexity of Sangiovese in the Rufina region, making this wine a high-calibre addition to the famous Selvapiana collection.

The road to Sant'Angelo in Colle leads to the south-west side of the Montalcino hill. Here lies the Tenuta Il Poggione – one of the oldest and most reliable houses in the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi, a Florentine landowner, bought the estate at the end of the 19th century after, it is said, hearing about the beauty of these hills from a shepherd. He was one of the first to market Brunello under this name and one of the founders of the consortium. Today, the fourth generation – leopoldo and Livia Franceschi – run the estate with 140 hectares of vines, the oldest vines up to 60 years old and a philosophy that has not fundamentally changed in a century.

Sparkling, medium-dense ruby-garnet colour. The Rancia Riserva from the single vineyard of the same name is powerful and energetic, expressive and dense and has been elevated to "Gran Selezione" status for the first time. The aroma is characterised by ripe, full-bodied fruit and mineral notes. The flavour is earthy, tannic and terroir-influenced, beautifully articulated, fine and with an enjoyable length. A wine that requires sensitivity and/or a few years of rest. SUPERIORE.DE

In the 12th century, a man named Ugolforte led the rebellion of the citizens of Montalcino against the superior power of Siena. A bandit for some, a freedom fighter for others – his name has survived the centuries in the stories told in the hills. Today it is on the label of a Brunello that carries this indomitable spirit. Tenuta San Giorgio is located in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the south-east of Montalcino, just a few kilometres from the thousand-year-old Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Founded in 1982 – in the same year that Grattamacco bottled its first vintage – the winery joined the ColleMassari group of the Tipa-Bertarelli family in 2016. Since then, it has shared the terroir with the legendary Poggio di Sotto: the same slopes, the same winds, the same philosophy. 28 hectares of Sangiovese on south-eastern slopes between 300 and 450 metres, embedded in 110 hectares of forest, which protects biodiversity and shapes the microclimate. The soils read like a geological poem: clay, galestro, tuff, red earth, white biancane, the proud Calanchi – and Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano, watches over everything.

Montepulciano is one of the oldest DOCGs in Italy – since 1966, on a par with Brunello di Montalcino. The fact that the Denominazione is now, after decades, introducing a new top category is not a marketing decision, but the result of long historical research. Twelve Pievi – the rural parishes that have divided the territory since late antiquity – were defined as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive. Gracciano is one of them. This is no coincidence: the hills south-west of Montepulciano are among the oldest and best-known vineyards in the appellation, and their wine history can be traced back to the early 19th century.

Avvoltore is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Powerful and explosive in the glass, it possesses remarkable intensity in all its dimensions, with great fruit and equally impressive tannins. Dark cherry, leather, smoke, tobacco, liquorice and grilled herbs form a virile, imposing Maremma red wine that will need at least a few years to develop its full expressive power. Once again, Morisfarms has done a great job with its flagship wine. SUPERIORE.DE,

The year was 1090, the year in which Leif Erikson discovered North America, the Chinese discovered gunpowder and Pope Urban II conquered Jerusalem. On that day, the notary Bellundo recorded a contract in the Siena state archives: two capons, three loaves of bread and six coins of good silver as an annual lease for a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. "Dio vuole" – god wants it. This is the etymological root of this name, which has symbolised the special connection between man and nature in this corner of Tuscany for over nine centuries.

The A in the name of Boggina stands for the natural wine aged for around 6 months in 400-600 Liters terracotta amphorae, which is bottled in a run of just 5,000 bottles without the addition of sulphites. Light, bright garnet red in colour. The bouquet is ethereal, very delicate and nuanced, with a very precise interpretation of the fragrance of the Sangiovese grape. Medium-bodied on the palate, with an exceptionally beautiful structure and authentic Sangiovese fruit with a salty vein. The finish is highly drinkable, with silky tannins and beguiling length. A masterpiece of beauty and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

Fanti's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 is delicately flavoured, haunting floral and seductive from the first swirl of the glass. A hint of icing sugar gives way to bright cherries, candied oranges, mint leaves and lavender, creating an extrovert yet delicious picture. In the mouth, it is seamless and silky, with a subtle hint of citrus and vibrant acids introducing ripe red notes of black berries with herbs. Rounded tannins emerge on the finish with hints of liquorice and violets. As always, very well made. SUPERIORE.DE

In 2014, Tenuta Perano near Gaiole became the first Frescobaldi estate in Chianti Classico – the appellation's historic heartland, where the family had not previously owned an estate of its own. Rialzi takes its name from the three natural terraces on which it grows, at an altitude of 500 metres and above, in south-west-facing Alberese soils, nestled within a natural amphitheatre of steep slopes. Harvested by hand and selected again in the cellar, the Sangiovese ferments in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks with skin contact and gentle pumping over to ensure gentle extraction. This is followed by 24 months in barriques, before a further period in the bottle completes the 36-month ageing process, thereby significantly exceeding the minimum ageing period of 30 months required for the Gran Selezione.

Ugolforte was a resistance fighter. In the 12th century, he led the people of Montalcino against the Sienese occupying forces – a local hero whose name lives on to this day: in a Brunello. The most striking contradiction dates back to 2010. That was when Tenuta San Giorgio began officially supplying the Ugolforte to the Pontifical Swiss Guard – that 500-year-old corps which guards the Pope in the Vatican. The estate says that shared values, and the symbolism of St George himself – virtue and courage, good triumphing over evil – guided the decision. The wine of the medieval rebel in the service of Christendom's oldest army.