Sangiovese

Laura Brunelli's Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese grapes from Podernovone – 500 metres above sea level on the south-eastern slope of Montalcino with south-western exposure – and Canalicchio on the north side of the village. The vines for the first vineyard were planted in 1998, those for the second in 1989. "Our Rosso is made from the same grapes as the Brunello," says Laura Brunelli. The wine is traditionally aged for a year in large oak barrels. It is extremely fresh every year and not without complexity. The aromas of redcurrants, wild strawberries, black pepper and juniper are followed by a bright bouquet of red fruits on the medium-bodied palate. It has velvety tannins and a refreshing, integrated acidity. A really great interpretation of the terroir and, as every year, a little Brunello. SUPERIORE.DE

Castello di Ama thinks in concentric circles. The Chianti Classico Ama is the first – accessible, direct and immediate. The San Lorenzo Gran Selezione is the innermost – dense, expressive, for decades. In between, with the birth of the 2018 vintage, the Montebuoni was created: a Chianti Classico Riserva that strives for the depth of the San Lorenzo and preserves the drinking pleasure of the Ama. Castello di Ama itself calls it the most honest representation of the elegance of the Sangiovese grape in this terroir – and that is a lot, from a house that has helped set the standard for this elegance. The Montebuoni comes from the valley of the same name – the most south-westerly and at the same time climatically most versatile of the four Ama vineyard sites between 420 and 508 metres above sea level. The soils vary: heavy clays at the bottom, limestone and scree at the top. Both give the Sangiovese something different – structure and fullness from below, freshness and minerality from the higher altitudes. This tension is the secret of the wine.

Here is a big, rich Rosso that is harmonious and impressive in all its components. The bouquet alternates between dried cherries and a fine tobacco note. The palate is taut and precise, in the style of the house, its body is supported by powerful tannins that make it an ideal and refined accompaniment to Tuscan cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

A summer that Europe remembers as hot – and Montalcino as surprising. The vines of Col d'Orcia, deeply rooted in the calcareous, clay-poor soils of the Orcia hill, showed in 2020 what biodynamic cultivation means in years of stress: resilience. Early bud burst after a mild winter, followed by a balanced spring with well-distributed rainfall. The summer remained warm, but without extreme heat phases – sporadic downpours at the end of August cooled the soil at the last moment and allowed the grapes to develop aromatic compounds instead of simply ripening. In addition, there were pronounced day-night temperature differences in September. Harvest from mid-September, clean and structured. The result has a character that Montalcino connoisseurs describe as "captivante": simultaneously accessible and enigmatic. Maceration for 18 to 20 days, shallow 150-hl steel tanks, gentle extraction. Three years in large barrels, twelve months in the bottle: Col d'Orcia's traditional vinification process – unchanged for decades because it works.

Gigliola Giannetti learnt the trade from Franco Biondi Santi – a school could hardly be more rigorous. Later, when she ran a wine shop in Montalcino, she became friends with Giulio Gambelli, the legendary Sangiovese whisperer who accompanied the best Brunelli in the region for decades. It was he who encouraged her to make wine herself. She bought her first plot of land in 1993. What sets Le Potazzine apart from others: All five hectares are registered for Brunello. The Rosso is therefore not a little brother from the second row, but a declassified Brunello – the same vineyard, the same care, just matured for a shorter time. Vinification follows the Gambelli credo: spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, long maceration of 30 to 45 days, no temperature control. Then twelve months in large Slavonian oak barrels, as is the tradition.

In the amphitheatre of the Tuscan hills of Castellina lies a single vineyard site called Il Poggiale, whose history dates back to 1968, when Paolo Panerai united four historic Poderi into a visionary project. Here, on the limestone soils between 350 and 400 metres above sea level, only Sangioveto thrives – the noblest local variety of Sangiovese – supplemented by only a few per cent of the autochthonous Canaiolo and Colorino varieties.

Sometimes a great vintage needs a little scare first. In April 2021, the thermometer dropped to minus seven degrees in parts of Montalcino – late frost, which hit the more sensitive sites and reduced the harvest to around 15 per cent below the previous year. What was a loss for some farms proved to be a gift for quality. Fewer grapes, more concentration. The surviving vines seemed to know what was at stake. The rest of the year followed the textbook pattern of classic Brunello meteorology: regular spring, hot and dry summer – then two decisive rain events in the second half of August, which gave the vineyards water and the grapes their final aromatic complexity. The September nights cooled the Sant'Angelo vineyard in Colle to temperatures that distinguish phenolic ripeness from genuine elegance. Harvest did not start until mid to late September – patiently waited, fully redeemed.

Sotto Casa – in the truest sense of the word: the single vineyard of the same name lies directly next to the winery, on stony alluvial soil – the most intimate vineyard on the entire estate and the only one from which Boscarelli combines international grape varieties with Prugnolo Gentile. Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and a tannic frame, a small proportion of Merlot gives fullness and softness – sangiovese remains the soul. The three varieties are harvested separately, fermented separately – in oak vats with natural yeasts for around 10 days at controlled temperatures. Each cuvée then matures separately in Slavonia and Allier oak between 3 and 30 hectolitres, depending on the varietal character. Blending only takes place at the end of the 28 to 32 months of maturation.

In the history of the Campolungo vineyard, thousands of years of Tuscan viticultural culture merge with visionary dedication to perfection. These historic terraces between 420 and 580 metres above sea level were already recognised as exceptional by the Romans and have been considered one of the cradles of fine Chianti since the 19th century. The 2018 tells the story of a special climatic favour: after a hot, dry summer, the extreme altitude of Lamole preserved the crystalline freshness that makes Campolungo one of the most exceptional single vineyards in Tuscany. Pure Sangiovese from hand-picked grapes of exceptional aromatic intensity. After careful hand-picking and visual selection of the best grapes, a two-week fermentation with skin contact takes place in traditional wooden vats. Thirty months of ageing in oak barrels, supplemented by a small proportion in French barriques, create a wine of multi-layered complexity and elegance.

The 2019 vintage leaves no doubt about its origin from a top vintage in Montalcino. The fruit for Poggio Landis Brunello is harvested at altitudes of 200 to 300 metres above sea level. Interesting aromas of wild cherry, plum and crushed flowers. Taut, polished yet traditional character on the palate. It fits perfectly into the house style, which favours an elegant and less extract-rich approach. A highly sophisticated charmer across the board. SUPERIORE.DE

Ricasoli's Vin Santo is the sublime interpretation of one of the historic grape varieties of Chianti Classico, the Malvasia del Chianti, and at the same time a masterpiece of centuries-old Tuscan craftsmanship. Here, the 880-year-old winemaking tradition of the Ricasoli family merges with the mystical art of passito making to create a wine of rare nobility. The grapes come from vines over forty years old on well-drained alluvial soils at an altitude of 200 metres with southern exposure. At the beginning of October, at the end of the harvest, the Malvasia grapes are hand-picked together with small quantities of Trebbiano and Sangiovese grapes with an optimum sugar content and perfect flavour concentration. Only the best, loose-berried grapes with sparse berries are transported in 18-kilogramme crates to specially ventilated chambers at Castello di Brolio. This is where the magic of time begins: the grapes hang to dry for three months while the water content slowly dwindles and the flavours concentrate. The must from the gentle pressing then ferments for months - a process that takes years and requires the utmost patience. The young wine then matures for nine years in oak caratelli of various sizes, where it develops its characteristic amber colour and complex aromas.

With the exception of 2016 and 2019, the last eight years in the region around Montalcino have been characterised by warm and dry conditions. For this reason, Il Poggione has started to prioritise irrigation for emergencies (which is becoming more and more of a necessity in the south-west of Montalcino) and is looking for a better balance in the higher vineyards. This is not the only reason why Il Poggione is one of the top producers every year, with an extremely fair value.

Le Baròncole Riserva impresses with its juicy fruit and stone fruit flavours on the nose and continues this beautiful impression on the palate. Cherry, sour cherries, blackberry, very juicy and powerful in appearance, completely fills the palate, but always remains lively and elegant. Silky, fine-grained tannins and a long, balsamic finish whet the appetite for the next glass. Good substance. Good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

On the classic bouquet, ripe cherry, tobacco and some damp earth. On the palate, first the pure Sangiovese feeling: beautiful small red berries, wild cherry, lively acidity. Then an impenetrable mesh of red and black fruits, which together with a fine web of tannins and minerals reveal more and more of themselves. Compressed and with each sip more open and present, the beautifully diversified taste components present themselves until they then lead into an aristocratically long and fresh finish with a hint of liquorice. SUPERIORE.DE

The fifth vineyard. Such is the simple origin of this name – and so direct is Carlo Ferrini's philosophy behind it. La Quinta is not the little sister of Brunello, but its self-confident counterpart: the same address in Sant'Angelo in Colle at 400 metres, the same Sangiovese from skeleton-rich soils with a south-easterly orientation, the same care in the cellar and ageing. Only the time horizon is different. 2020 brought Montalcino warm, balanced conditions with a good night-day temperature amplitude – a vintage that favoured depth and drinkability in equal measure. 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration in steel, then 12 months in a combination of 700-litre Liters, 2,500-litre Liters barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounded off in cement tanks. The baked clay amphora provides the breathable openness that keeps the wine alive without oxidising it.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiola.

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

When we discovered this winery by chance at the beginning of the 2000s, we were immediately impressed by the modesty and purism of the Biliorsi winemaking family. This is still the case today, they remain true to themselves and their philosophy and in good years, they produce just 10,000 bottles of a "slightly different" Brunello in the cellar.

Piandorino, the "entry-level wine" from Pian dell'Orino, represents its noble origins with great class. Light, bright ruby red in colour, with a beautiful bouquet of dark cherry, fresh plum, peppery notes and delicate vanilla tones. Juicy fruit on the palate, accompanied by a flattering woody note, finely balanced tannins and good length. This wine is fine and beautifully delicate on the finish. The grapes for Piandorino come from the estate's younger Brunello vines and around 3,000 bottles are produced each year. SUPERIORE.DE

Le Baròncole – the small manor houses. The name refers to the feudal parcelling out of this land in the Middle Ages, to owners who were small enough to be forgotten, but large enough to leave their name on the landscape. Today, Le Baròncole is the name of the highest Chianti Classico from San Giusto a Rentennano – a Riserva that is only produced in years when the terroir justifies it. The estate overlooks the upper Arbia Valley at an altitude of 270 metres. The soils are varied – sand, clay, limestone, mineral-rich deposits – and characterised by a microclimate with pronounced temperature fluctuations between day and night. In such locations, Sangiovese matures differently than elsewhere: more slowly, with more tension, with a freshness that does not develop in the Maremma or the Chianti lowlands. 97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo, harvested by hand in September, when the Martini di Cigalas are safe. Matured for 16 to 20 months in large oak barrels and French barriques, depending on the vintage, followed by a further six months in the bottle.

1975 – two years after Riecine’s first Chianti Classico – john Dunkley decided that some years and some grapes deserve more than the usual. The Riserva was born. Since then, it has only been produced when the selection allows: the best vineyards, the oldest vines, two stages of selection – in the vineyard and on the sorting table – before the grapes enter the cellar. The vines for the Riserva are between 25 and 45 years old. After selection, the must is transferred to unglazed Nomblot concrete vats. There, the must is initially kept cool with dry ice for four to five days before spontaneous fermentation begins – slowly, naturally. After fermentation, the wine spends a further ten days on the skins, with the cap submerged. Then comes the centrepiece: the entire Riserva production is transferred to a single large oak cask from Grenier. Untoasted – no toasty aromas, no vanilla, no foreign character. Just the neutral, breathable structure of the wood. 22 months. Then back into concrete for natural stabilisation and clarification. Finally, three months in bottle.

Vintages write wine history – and 2021 is deeply engraved in Montalcino. Extreme drought, intense sunshine, nights that remained cool despite everything: The Sangiovese vines responded with concentrated, aromatically dense grapes that yielded little but showed a clear signature. For La Quinta, the wine from Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres above the Castello di Sant'Angelo in Colle, this meant an emphatic vintage. The vinification follows the tried and tested rhythm: 7 days of fermentation in steel, 13 days of maceration, then a year of ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay, before the wine is left to rest in cement and finally matures for at least 6 months in the bottle.