Sangiovese

Since 1957, the Ghezzi family has been managing the extensive estate on the south-western slope of Montalcino – covering a total area of 530 hectares, 50 of which are planted exclusively with Sangiovese Grosso, on clay-limestone soils containing silt and fossil inclusions. From this sunny, warm site on the Ombrone river emerges a Brunello that combines the vigour of the south with the elegance of careful clone selection. 20 to 30 days of maceration, fermentation at 26–28 °C, followed by 24 months in oak barrels and a full year of bottle ageing. The 2021 vintage is regarded as a classic, great 'annata': late frosts in April significantly reduced yields, whilst a warm but never overheated summer and two timely August rains brought the grapes to full, slow phenolic ripeness.

In Montalcino, the name Ginestreto stands for something special: a Rosso di Montalcino that is more than just the "little brother" of Brunello. Fuligni has been producing this wine for years with a level of care that has long since earned it a reputation of its own. The Sangiovese Grosso comes partly from younger vines and partly from classified Brunello vineyards – a deliberate selection that gives the Ginestreto that balance between youthful freshness and structured depth which sets it apart. The winemaking process follows the Fuligni philosophy: hand-harvesting, careful selection and separate vinification of the different plots. Part of the wine matures for around six months in French Allier tonneaux, whilst the rest is aged in stainless steel – a combination that harmonises fruit and structure.

There are vintages that make history – and 2023 will be one such milestone for Valdicava. In a decision that prioritises pure perfection over commercial success, Vincenzo Abbruzzese made a choice that only a true purist can make: Not a single drop of the 2023 vintage will leave the estate as Brunello di Montalcino. Instead, the entire precious harvest from the legendary Montosoli vineyards will be channelled into a Rosso di Montalcino of historic significance. What would normally be considered "declassification" becomes a deliberate art form here. All the grapes from the famous vineyards, those that would normally be reserved for the celebrated Brunello and even the mythical Madonna del Piano Riserva, come together to create a Rosso that pushes the boundaries of its category.

Anyone who knows Carlo Ferrini knows that he thinks in clones. 15 carefully selected Sangiovese clones grow on the Podere Giodo in Sant'Angelo in Colle, in the south-west of Montalcino – a location that gives the Sangiovese warmth and maturity without taking away its tension. Ferrini has been working on his most personal project here since 2002, together with his daughter Bianca and cellar master Riccardo Ferrari since 2020. The Rosso di Montalcino is the latest addition to this family history – debut vintage 2024 and clearly positioned from the outset: not a stopgap, but an independent voice. 1.5 hectares at 400 metres, exposed to the south-east, medium-heavy, skeleton-rich soil, 6,600 plants per hectare. The vines are seven years old – young, but already precise in flavour. 13 days of maceration in steel, délestage at half time. Then 12 months of ageing, divided between wooden vats and cocciopesto amphorae, followed by cement. Six months in the bottle. 12,000 bottles – a generous quantity by Giodo standards, but a welcome one for the market.

In 1996, Elisabetta Geppetti bought a hillside near Pereta. She named it Poggio Valente – the capable hill, the brave hill. A name that says it all. The vineyard lies at 280 metres, facing south-west, on sandy soils over sandstone bedrock with clay interlayers – a terroir that lends the Sangiovese precision and elegance rather than weight and power. Elisabetta wanted something different here: a single-varietal Sangiovese cru in the Burgundian tradition, a wine that speaks of its vineyard and nothing else. In 2014, she took a decisive step: Poggio Valente left the Morellino appellation and has since been classified as Toscana IGT. This is no step backwards – quite the opposite. It is a statement. This wine transcends its designation of origin, and Elisabetta did not want the lack of international recognition associated with an appellation to limit her ambition.

When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned Brancaia estate near Castellina in Chianti in 1981, nobody could have guessed that this would become one of the defining wineries of modern Tuscany. The very first vintage in 1983 took first place in a blind tasting – the beginning of a success story that daughter Barbara Widmer is continuing today as a qualified Oenologist. The entire winery has been certified organic since 2019, a consistent development of the philosophy that has always applied here: no compromises. The Riserva combines the best Sangiovese lots from both Chianti Classico estates – brancaia in Castellina and Poppi in Radda – supplemented by twenty per cent Merlot. The sites between 230 and 400 metres above sea level bring together different soil structures: Clay in Castellina, sandy loam with a stony skeleton in Radda.

The latest wine from Manetti – and yet one that bears the Montevertine hallmark like a second skin. Pian del Ciampolo is more than just an entry-level wine: it represents the accessible side of that uncompromising philosophy for which Sergio Manetti abandoned the Chianti Classico DOCG in 1981, because he refused to blend white Trebbiano into his Sangiovese. This wine is made from a blend of the two main cuvées – Le Pergole Torte and Montevertine – as well as grapes from younger vines. What elsewhere might be called a second or third wine is, here, pure Sangiovese character in its freshest form.

Vigna Spuntali is located in the south-west of Montalcino, at 300 metres, less than 30 kilometres from the sea. This is no small matter. Where other locations are characterised by continental influences, the Mediterranean reigns here: dry heat, constant ventilation, salty breeze. Olive trees, myrtle, rosemary, sea lilacs – the Mediterranean maquis begins just behind the vines. The soil consists of sandy soils of weathered Pietraforte rock, well drained, rich in minerals, warm. Sangiovese Grosso thrives here unlike anywhere else in Montalcino – riper, more voluminous, with an iodised sea breeze on the finish that is unmistakable. The Rosso Vigna Spuntali is a new chapter in the Val di Suga portfolio: a single-vineyard Rosso that expresses the character of this exceptional terroir directly and without detours. Hand-picked in the morning, fermentation lasts twelve days, followed by a ten-day post-fermentation phase. Ageing: six months in 40-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels, then twelve months in concrete vats – an ageing process that preserves freshness and develops depth at the same time. Twelve months of bottle ageing complete the circle.

1992 was the last vintage of Boscarelli's first Riserva era. This was followed by a break of almost two decades – this was not a period of inactivity, but a lot of work and research: replanting the historic vineyards, selecting clones, researching the climatic variations of the Cervognano terroir. It was not until 2010, when the young vines of the autochthonous new plantings first showed the complexity that had been awaited, that the Riserva returned. Just like in the 1970s and 80s: exclusively from indigenous grape varieties. Prugnolo Gentile and Colorino. Vines over 20 years old from the historic core of the Boscarelli vineyards in Cervognano – calcareous, alluvial sandy soils with silt, clay, minerals and a rich stone skeleton that varies depending on the location and altitude. 6,500 vines per hectare.

The name Deimassi comes from the large stone blocks that make up the terrace wall that supports the vineyard. These were dug out of the ground during the preparatory work for the planting in 2008. The large stones and the friable clay still mark this small parcel of land, originally intended for the production of Brunello di Montalcino, the results of which are now being marketed without the longer ageing period prescribed for Brunello.

Montalcino is a hill. To be more precise: a single, large cone of limestone, marl, slate and sand that rises above the Val d'Orcia – facing north, south-east and south-west, and characterised by three completely different climates. Most producers in the appellation have access to one of these slopes. Val di Suga boasts all three: Vigna del Lago in the north-west, Poggio al Granchio in the south-east, and Vigna Spuntali in the south-west. Three soils, three microclimates, three characters – and a single estate that unites them all under one roof. The entry-level Brunello is the result of this unique location: a cuvée from all three vineyards that aims not for simplification, but for synthesis. Fermentation lasts eight to twelve days at a controlled temperature, followed by maceration for a further two to three weeks. The wine is aged for 24 months in traditional 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels, followed by six months in concrete, then bottled. The 2021 vintage saw a late frost in April – the harvest was reduced, the quality concentrated. A dry summer without extreme heat, followed by a long, consistent autumn. The Consorzio and a jury of eight Masters of Wine agreed on three words to characterise the vintage: fragrant, precise, vertical.

Sangioveto, made from 100% organic Sangiovese, is grown in cool vineyards at altitudes of between 260 and 370 metres, facing south-west. In the past, Sangiovese was known as "Sangioveto" or "San Zoveto". It represents a refined expression of this particular part of the appellation and a very faithful interpretation of the Tuscan grape. Radiant ruby red in colour, the Sangiovese's broad aromatic spectrum ranges from lovely vanilla notes to hints of raspberries and blackberries. Dense and creamy-smooth on the palate, it offers a harmonious blend of tannins, spice and power, with a precisely balanced acidity. It leaves a lasting and impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE

It was at the Omino vineyard that Monica Raspi took her first steps as a winemaker after closing her veterinary practice. The vines were planted in the 1990s; they face west, are situated at an altitude of 360 metres and are organically farmed. The soil is poor, consisting of limestone and clay, but primarily Alberese – a limestone dating from the Eocene epoch – and the roots reach deep into the ground. The harvest begins by hand at the end of September; the must remains in contact with the skins for 21 days at 25 degrees. Ageing takes place partly in large oak barrels – 15 months in Slavonian oak – and partly in concrete tanks for 12 months. Just 2,500 bottles are produced, made from 100% Sangiovese.

The vines of the Vigna del Termine face east, surrounded by woodland, with downy oaks, broom and juniper growing amongst the vines. Zoe the dog accompanies Monica Raspi, who has been running the estate since 2007, through the vineyard here, provided it isn't raining. The plot is situated in the Vagliagli sub-zone of Chianti Classico, at an altitude of 360 metres. The soil is calcareous marl with some sand, and the vineyard is cultivated organically. Only 2,000 bottles are produced from the Sangiovese grown here: the harvest are harvest by hand in the fourth week of September; the must remains on the skins for 21 days at 25 degrees, followed by two years' ageing, half in large Slavonian oak barrels and half in concrete tanks.

The name embodies three thousand years of history: the Etruscans called this land "Fèlsina", long before it came to be known as Tuscany. When shipowner Domenico Poggiali acquired the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga in 1966, it was known primarily for its olive oil – there were just two and a half hectares of vines on the 400-hectare estate. The Vin Santo embodies the estate’s philosophy: respect for tradition, but no fear of the unconventional. Unlike most producers, Felsina uses not only Trebbiano and Malvasia, but also adds a proportion of Sangiovese – the grape variety that has made the estate world-famous with its Rancia and Fontalloro wines. The Sangiovese lends the sweet wine structure and colour, a hint of tannin and that elegance which characterises Felsina's wines.

The Conca d'Oro – the golden basin. This is what the winegrowers of Panzano call the natural depression in the terrain south of Greve, where the sun arrives earlier and stays longer than elsewhere in Chianti Classico. The slope, the Galestro-Alberese soil, the air circulation between the hills: everything comes together to create a microclimate that gives the Sangiovese the depth and fruit ripeness that is exceptional elsewhere, year after year. Gagliole lies at the centre of it all – a small, carefully managed winery that has been showing what Panzano can achieve in this price range since the Riserva première in the 2018 vintage. 100% Sangiovese from vines over twenty years old, organically farmed, hand-picked, fermented in steel. What follows is a well thought-out ageing process: ten months in small used oak barrels, then five months in cement tanks – a combination that gives the wine structure without over-moulding it. Only 11,000 bottles.

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name suits an estate that has ranked among the defining producers of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first in the region to convert to organic viticulture – as early as 1988, when the very idea of "organic" winegrowing still raised eyebrows. Today, Querciabella follows a rigorously organic approach, shaped both in the vineyard and in the cellar by a particularly mindful use of natural resources and clear ethical principles. That Daniele Cernilli (Dr. Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as little surprise to anyone familiar with these wines.

1172 – the year in which Volpaia is first mentioned in documents. A small, fortified borgo on a hill north of Radda in Chianti, built as a border fortress between Florence and Siena. Today it is a jewel of peace and beauty and one of the most historic wine villages in Tuscany. Here, where soldiers once stood guard, the Stianti-Mascheroni families now press their grapes within the medieval walls. The bottles mature in the vaults of old churches and almost every cellar contains a tank of organic wine. An entire village dedicated to viticulture. So complete that it becomes poetic again. The Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from vineyards between 400 and 600 metres above sea level. One of the highest wineries in the region. Up here, where the air is thin and the nights are cool, Sangiovese develops the elegance and minerality that makes Volpaia so distinctive. Sandstone, clay and sandy-loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Manual harvest in the second half of September, temperature-controlled vinification, then 24 months in French and Slovenian oak barrels.

This Sangiovese rarity, bottled without the addition of sulphites, is only produced in the best vintages and matures for 16 months in cocciopesto, a container made from ground brick, fine stone, sand and natural fibre binder. This mixture can then be moulded into containers that are watertight but still allow micro-oxygenation. The real peculiarity of Cocciopesto wine containers lies in the material itself, which is characterised by a high thermal inertia and a certain permeability that makes it ideal for all phases, from vinification to ageing.

There are wines that define an appellation. And there are wines that show where an appellation can go. The Gran Selezione from Lilliano belongs to the second category. When the Chianti Classico producers created the new top of the quality pyramid in 2010, there was a great deal of scepticism: is there really a need for another category above the Riserva? Lilliano answered this question with deeds rather than words. While other estates defined their Gran Selezione with an international use of wood and concentrated opulence, Lilliano remained true to its line: tradition, terroir, typicity. The Gran Selezione comes exclusively from the two best single vineyards of the Tenuta – piagge and Casina, both situated at an altitude of around 300 metres, both characterised by the calcareous Alberese soils that make Castellina in Chianti one of the most mineral terroirs in the entire appellation. Piagge is south-facing, fully exposed to the sun, and produces Sangiovese of concentration and vigour. Casina, on the other hand, exposed to the east-south-east, produces Colorino and Sangiovese of elegance and aromatic finesse. Together they produce a cuvée of 90% Sangiovese and 5% each of Colorino and Merlot – an assemblage that seeks perfection within the rules rather than innovation.

On the northern slopes of Montalcino, where the cool forest breezes of Monte Amiata meet the warming influences of the Tyrrhenian Sea, lies one of Tuscany's best-kept secrets. Since 1953, when Bramante Abbruzzese returned to the land of his ancestors, Valdicava has been producing wines of an intensity and finesse that few estates can match. Today, his grandson Vincenzo continues the legacy. A man who prefers to be out among the vines rather than in the office and whose demand for perfection is legendary. The Rosso di Montalcino 2022 is made from the same select Sangiovese Grosso grapes that are also used for the world-famous Brunelli. At an altitude of 300 metres, in the coolest areas of the appellation, the vines thrive in a mixture of clay, sand and limestone – soils that produce fruit of exceptional intensity. Since the end of the 1980s, Vincenzo has completely dispensed with chemicals and practised biodynamic cultivation, allowing each grape to express the pure essence of its terroir.

Monica Raspi remembers: "I took my first steps as a winemaker in the Omino vineyard. The grapes grown here produce the wine that is the absolute benchmark for my very personal interpretation of the Sangiovese grape."

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE