Nerello

Whilst the Bianco from Cavaliere captivates with its freshness and salinity, the Rosso reveals the other side of this exceptional terroir: Burgundian elegance, volcanic depth and a tannin structure of silky precision. At an altitude of 900 metres on the south-western slope of Mount Etna – higher than most of Etna's vineyards – 50-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines are trained using the Guyot system. The skeletal volcanic sands, with their sub-acidic profile and excellent drainage, force the roots deep into the soil. Low rainfall, abundant sunshine and dramatic day-night temperature fluctuations characterise a microclimate that endows the grapes with exceptional aromatic complexity. Hand-harvested in mid-October, destemmed, then 21 days of maceration at a controlled temperature using the estate's own Etna yeasts – the result of years of research. The wine matures for twelve months in French tonneaux, then in stainless steel, followed by ten months' ageing in bottle.

A different location, a different profile: Contrada Calderana Sottana comes from a special place. In the Calderana Sottana sub-zone, south-east of the summit, where the altitude begins and the soil consists of fine volcanic loam and sand, vines take root at over 700 metres, basking in the early morning sun, and shaped at night by cool temperatures and high-altitude winds – a terroir that fosters both intensity and freshness in equal measure. Made from 100% Nerello Mascalese, traditionally trained using the Alberello method, the wine undergoes controlled fermentation and a short maceration period, followed by ageing for around 12 months in tonneaux. This ageing process is regarded as a delicate art – it shapes and emphasises the wine’s character without overpowering it.

On the northern border with Guardiola, where the barren, steep slopes of the higher ground give way to gentle terraces, lies one of the most beautiful spots on Mount Etna: Santo Spirito. Here, where the slopes gently descend towards the Alcantara Valley, a paradox of nature is revealed. Whilst neighbouring Guardiola struggles with barren, stony soils, Santo Spirito boasts lush vegetation – deep, rich volcanic ash that nourishes a luxuriant carpet of grass and vigorous vines that display their bountiful vigour.

In 2007, Marco de Grazia discovered a tiny plot in Moganazzi – one of the two vineyards which, together with Guardiola, have always been regarded as the finest terroirs in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia. He bought it without hesitation. The problem: just three barriques of wine. Too little for the market. Too good not to be made. De Grazia decided to donate all the bottles to a charity project run by the Meyer Children's Hospital in Florence. He had his daughter Elena design the labels. The first ones were created when she was two years old. For ten years, Moganazzi was a gift to sick children. Then, in 2017, de Grazia managed to buy a neighbouring plot and lease another one. For the first time, Moganazzi appeared as an official Terre Nere cru.

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Feudo di Mezzo is perhaps the largest Contrada in the entire Etna DOC – characterised by a consistent style, yet with marked differences in quality from plot to plot. Marco de Grazia compares it to the Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy: a vast territory capable of producing great wine in its finest parts, and merely good wine in its weaker ones. The best plot in Feudo di Mezzo – de Grazia's plot – is called: Il Quadro delle Rose. The Rose Plot. Castiglione di Sicilia, 650 metres, north-facing. 1.5 hectares, vines aged between 40 and 80 years on deep, ash-rich volcanic soils. 5,500 bottles per vintage. Il Quadro delle Rose is always the first vineyard to be harvested – and de Grazia explains why this shapes its character: the earlier harvest yields the most open, generous and soft wines of the entire estate.

An old, disused railway line runs through the countryside of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. It no longer goes anywhere – the rails are rusting, the land is slowly becoming overgrown. But it still exists as a border. It separates the Contrada Cottanera from the Contrada Diciasettesalme. And it gives this wine its precise geographical name: "beyond the railway". Diciasettesalme is one of the oldest vineyard names in Etna viticulture. Its name comes from a historical Sicilian unit of measurement – the salma, an area that a mule could plough in one day. Seventeen of these correspond to around 25 hectares. On this land, Nerello Mascalese grows on black lava sands and clay-rich volcanic soils at an altitude of 750 to 800 metres – one of the coolest and most exposed sites in the entire appellation area.

This is where it all began. In Viagrande, on the south-eastern slope of Mount Etna, where Giuseppe Benanti's grandfather planted the first vines at the end of the 19th century, lies the heart of the estate. The Contrada Monte Serra is no ordinary vineyard – it rises on an extinct volcanic cone that once erupted independently of the main crater, and whose pyroclastic deposits created a unique soil: light, rich in mineral matter, with exceptional drainage. At an altitude of just 450 metres, closer to the Ionian Sea than the other Contrade, the grapes ripen earlier here and develop a softer, more approachable elegance. The vines – some over 100 years old – are trained in the traditional "alberello" style on small terraces with dry stone walls made of lava rock, at an extremely high density of 9,000 vines per hectare. The sandy volcanic soils are rich in "ripiddu", the characteristic small pumice fragments found on Mount Etna.

Santo Spirito is one of the most striking contrade on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna – less stony than Rampante, but no less impressive. Here, at an altitude of around 700 metres, the old Nerello Mascalese vines are deeply rooted in ashy volcanic soil with a high sand content. The microclimate is cooler, the humidity higher and the east-facing exposure gives the grapes gentle morning warmth. Pietradolce vinifies the single-vineyard wine traditionally with spontaneous fermentation in wooden vats, followed by approx. 12 months of ageing in large French tonneaux.

Feudo di Mezzo is located in the heart of the northern Etna belt – one of the oldest and most traditional contrade around Castiglione di Sicilia. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of around 750 metres on ancient lava flows and iron-rich volcanic soils that produce dark fruit, mineral depth and remarkable elegance. The microclimate is cool, the exposure ideal – large temperature differences between day and night favour slow, complete ripening. Feudo di Mezzo is not considered one of the Grand Cru from the volcano for nothing. The pure Nerello Mascalese comes from vines that are over 60 years old and trained as Alberello. The grapes are harvest manually in small crates, followed by a traditional maceration with a long standing time at controlled temperatures. The wine then matures for 14 months in Liters French oak tonneaux before resting for a further year in the bottle.

Typical ruby red colour with a matt sheen. Well-defined and clean on the nose, with notes of cherry, small, mostly red fruits and a subtle, delicate spiciness. Fresh on the palate, opens wide and finishes with a spicy note and considerable length. The tannins, very well extracted, delicately caress the palate. A wine full of elegance and harmony, with pronounced terroir typicity and recognisable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Rosso Arcurìa comes from the plot directly opposite the winery where Alberto Graci began his return to Etna in 2004, after turning his back on the world of finance in Milan. Whilst the entry-level Etna Rosso blends grapes from several vineyards, this wine comes exclusively from the plots in Contrada Arcurìa, situated at an altitude of 600 to 700 metres. The yield, at around 30 hectolitres per hectare, is noticeably lower than that of the entry-level wine, with three to four bunches per vine. The grapes grow on the same brown, volcanic soil as the Carricante used for the Bianco. 100% Nerello Mascalese is fermented in the traditional manner in upright, conical wooden vats, with a long maceration period on the skins, before ageing for 24 months in large Nevers oak vats, with malolactic fermentation occurring naturally.

Feudo di Mezzo is more than just a vineyard – it is the historic centrepiece of viticulture on Etna. One of Pietradolce's oldest and most fascinating plots is located in the contrada of the same name, around 600 metres above sea level between the lava flows of past eruptions. The Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted here in deep black, mineral-rich lava soil with excellent drainage. The microclimate is characterised by wide temperature fluctuations, which give the wine a special depth and tension. Vinification is carried out with great sensitivity: spontaneous fermentation in traditional wooden vats, maturing for around 12 months in large tonneaux.

Contrada Rampante is one of the highest and most renowned vineyards on the north-east slope of Mount Etna. At around 1,000 metres above sea level, Nerello Mascalese thrives here on volcanic sandy soils with a high lava content – a terroir of rare expressiveness that combines cool nights, long vegetation cycles and extreme slopes. The vines are over 100 years old – partly ungrafted – produce small-berried, concentrated grapes. After fermentation in cement, the wine matures for around 12 months in large wooden barrels and then for several months in the bottle.

The Nerello Mascalese vines for the Archineri Rosso are rooted deep in the terraced vineyards of Contrada Rampante – at an altitude of around 850 metres on pure volcanic rock. It is a barren, yet vital terroir which, in combination with old, ungrafted vines and strict selection, produces wines of almost ascetic precision. The grapes are fermented spontaneously, then matured for around 12 months in large, used oak barrels before being bottled without filtration.

The place where it all began in 2002. The first vintage of Tenuta delle Terre Nere did not come from just any plot. It came from the Guardiola: the estate's highest vineyard, the most challenging, and the oldest. For the first Etna wine of his career, Marco de Grazia chose the toughest start he could find. And he gave it two further firsts: the first time an Etna Rosso bore the Contrada name on the label. And the first time it was bottled in a Burgundy-style bottle. The Contrada Guardiola lies at an altitude of 900 to 1,000 metres – right on the very edge of the Etna DOC. No grapes grow any higher up. The soils are poor: sand, volcanic pumice, basalt scree – the bare minimum a vine needs. The terraces become narrower with increasing altitude; vineyard work there is carried out exclusively by hand and is exceptionally difficult. The vines have stood on this soil for over a hundred years – on their own roots, ungrafted, because phylloxera never reached these high altitudes on Mount Etna. Pre-phylloxera. Alive.

The annual production of this boutique winery on Etna is just 9,000 bottles. At an altitude of 950 metres above sea level, the one and a half hectares of vines are divided into eight tiny plots and have been gradually bought up by the well-known Oenologist. The area is planted with Nerello Mascalese bush vines, which have been spared the phylloxera phylloxera and make their way through the lava-covered terraces.

Alongside Fragore, Etna-Cru Donnafugata, named after the Contrada Marchesa vineyard of the same name, is Donnafugata's second top wine from the volcano. Its label is adorned with a volcano goddess decorated with flowers and fruit, next to which is the medieval village of Castiglione di Sicilia. The Nerello vines grow on a lava soil rich in minerals, and the location to the north of the volcano ensures temperate summers with strong temperature fluctuations between day and night.

Feudo di Mezzo 2021 is an Etna Rosso that acts as a silent mirror of the altitude – luminous but restrained, characterised by the elegance of traditional grape varieties and a touch of irresistible beauty. The 2021 vintage did not produce extreme ripeness on the flanks of Mount Etna, but rather a multi-faceted interplay of red cherries, rose petals and delicately bitter grapefruit – a lively dance between freshness and depth. Early frosts were offset by gentle summer sunshine, allowing for perfect balance and aromatic finesse. The cuvée consists of 85% Nerello Mascalese and 15% Nerello Cappuccio, grown on mineral-rich, volcanic gravel and lava soil in the Contrada Feudo di Mezzo, around 650 to 700 metres above sea level. After selective hand-picking, the wine undergoes traditional fermentation with a long maceration period, followed by 24 months of ageing in large wooden barrels.

The annual production of this boutique winery on Etna is just 9,000 bottles. At an altitude of 950 metres above sea level, the one and a half hectares of vines are divided into eight tiny plots and have been gradually bought up by the well-known Oenologist. The area is planted with Nerello Mascalese bush vines, which have been spared the phylloxera phylloxera and make their way through the lava-covered terraces.

The annual production of this boutique winery on Etna is just 9,000 bottles. At an altitude of 950 metres above sea level, the one and a half hectares of vines are divided into eight tiny plots and have been gradually bought up by the well-known Oenologist. The area is planted with Nerello Mascalese bush vines, which have been spared the phylloxera phylloxera and make their way through the lava-covered terraces.

The 1.5-hectare Feudo di Mezzo plot is one of the oldest vineyards in Alberto Graci's portfolio: The Nerello Mascalese vines were planted around 80 years ago in the Alberello style and still stand today amidst olive and almond trees, as was customary on Mount Etna in the past, before monoculture became the norm. With around 8,000 vines per hectare, the vineyard is one of the estate's most densely planted plots. Grown at an altitude of 600 metres on sandy, iron-rich volcanic soil, the grapes are harvested by hand in mid- to late October. The must, comprising 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio, ferments spontaneously and without temperature control in standing wooden vats, with a maceration period of around 30 days, before the wine is aged for 24 months in large Nevers oak casks and left to rest in the bottle for at least half a year before release.