Nerello

L'amore mio – my love. Rarely does a wine carry its character so openly in its name. This rosé spumante is Benanti's declaration of love for the Nerello Mascalese – the noble red grape variety that is otherwise synonymous with elegant red wines with a Burgundian grace on Etna. As Metodo Classico, it reveals a completely different, no less enchanting side. The grapes come from the south and south-east slopes of the volcano, where the vines are rooted between 700 and 750 metres in mineral-rich volcanic sands. Hand-picked, whole bunch pressing without destemming, fermentation at 16–18 °C in stainless steel. The base wine rests on the fine lees until late spring, followed by bottle fermentation with selected yeasts. After 24 months on the lees, disgorgement and dosage take place; a further three months of rest complete the maturation.

Feudo di Mezzo is one of the most prestigious contrade on the northern slope of Mount Etna, a place where viticulture and volcanic rock have had a symbiotic relationship for centuries. At an altitude of around 600 metres, old Nerello Mascalese vines take root here in porous, ferrous ash, interspersed with lava boulders and basalt veins – a soil that gives the wine finesse, tension and depth. Alta Mora is Cusumano's ambitious project on Etna, and Feudo di Mezzo epitomises this vision: single-varietal, rigorously selected, with maximum focus on origin and character. The 2019 vintage on Mount Etna was characterised by elegance: a cool spring followed by a long, dry summer with cool nights. The grapes ripened slowly and harmoniously, with fine phenolic ripeness and a balanced acidity structure. After manual harvesting, fermentation took place with gentle maceration, followed by 12 months of maturation in French tonneaux and a long period of rest in the bottle.

Guardiola is a name with weight on Etna. One of the highest and steepest cru sites in Sicily, between 800 and 1,000 metres above sea level, exposed to the harsh sun, cool winds and the contrasts of a volcanic climate, which shapes not only the landscape but also the character of the wine. The vines – predominantly Nerello Mascalese – are deeply rooted in lava rock and volcanic ash, the soil is lean, black and mineralised, a barren terroir that combines strength and elegance rather than playing them off against each other. The vintage brought ideal conditions for a wine with a firm but accessible structure: after a cool spring, the grapes ripened under consistently warm summer sunshine, accompanied by pronounced day-night differences. The grapes were harvest late, by hand, in small crates – a decisive moment for precision and balance. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine was matured in French oak barrels – not to dominate the wine, but to give it contour.

An archaic red from the volcano – feudo di Mezzo already carries the weight of its origin in its name: the name refers to the central area of the Passopisciaro Valley at an altitude of around 600 metres. The 2018 vintage on the Etna slopes in Passopisciaro was warm and balanced with freshness from the cooling winds. The grapes achieved ripe juiciness with a lively structure – a vintage that allows balance and at the same time shapes character. The cuvée comes from 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio from old vines, traditionally trained in Alberello. Deep-rooted vines, volcanic rubble and pumice soil, mineral, permeable, characterised by thermal influences – this is Etna terroir in its purest form.

In the upper areas of the historic Contrada Rovittello – at an altitude of around 700 metres, on volcanic rock with a high basalt content – the old Nerello Mascalese vines of Il Musmeci take root. Some of them are even over 100 years old, their roots penetrating deep into the barren, mineral-rich soil. The north-eastern flank of Mount Etna provides a cool microclimate with a strong contrast between day and night – decisive for the aromatic precision. The name Il Musmeci is a tribute to the former owner of the parcel, Cav. Santi Musmeci, whose respect for terroir and tradition became the legacy of this wine.

Tasca was involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of this many years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante winery: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are filigree and profound, and despite their strength, acidity and tight tannin very elegant, rich in finesse and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine due to the altitude, soil and morphology of the historical lava flows. A high annual rainfall secures all water reserves for the soil, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the variety of aromas of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

Animanaturale from vines over 60 years old is the lightest and freshest wine from the new Animaetna line of the small garage winery Contrada Santa Spirito, which belongs to Feudo Maccari. Matured almost entirely in amphorae, the Nerello Mascalese grape presents itself here in all its fruitiness and freshness, completely unadulterated and pure. The grapes are foot-pressed, spontaneous fermentation is carried out using the grapes' own yeasts, racking and bottling take place according to the phases of the moon. On the palate, the flavours of red fruits and berries are tangy and vibrant with a precise and very mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The same Contrada, a completely different wine: whilst the Bianco from Cavaliere captivates with its freshness and salinity, the Rosso reveals the other side of this exceptional terroir: Burgundian elegance, volcanic depth and a tannin structure of silky precision. At an altitude of 900 metres on the south-western slope of Mount Etna – higher than most Etna vineyards – 50-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines are trained using the Guyot system. The skeletal volcanic sands, with their sub-acidic profile and excellent drainage, force the roots deep into the soil. Low rainfall, abundant sunshine and dramatic day-night temperature fluctuations characterise a microclimate that endows the grapes with exceptional aromatic complexity. Hand-harvested in mid-October, destemmed, then 21 days of maceration at a controlled temperature using the estate's own Etna yeasts – the result of years of research. The wine matures for twelve months in French tonneaux, then in stainless steel, followed by ten months of bottle ageing.

Tasca became involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single-vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and brooding, and despite their strength, acidity and firm tannins, they are very elegant, full of finesse and light on the palate. Each of the four parcels brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil conditions and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all its water reserves, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the variety of flavours in the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

This is where it all began. In Viagrande, on the south-eastern slope of Mount Etna, where Giuseppe Benanti's grandfather planted the first vines at the end of the 19th century, lies the heart of the estate. The Contrada Monte Serra is no ordinary vineyard – it rises on an extinct volcanic cone that once erupted independently of the main crater, and whose pyroclastic deposits created a unique soil: light, rich in mineral matter, with exceptional drainage. At an altitude of just 450 metres, closer to the Ionian Sea than the other Contrade, the grapes ripen earlier here and develop a softer, more approachable elegance. The vines – some over 100 years old – are trained in the traditional "alberello" style on small terraces with dry stone walls made of lava rock, at an extremely high density of 9,000 vines per hectare. The sandy volcanic soils are rich in "Ripiddu", the characteristic small pumice fragments found on Mount Etna.

The Pianodario parcel is located at an average altitude of 775 metres above sea level between the hamlet of Montelaguardia and Randazzo. It covers an area of around 8 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and are up to 40,000 years old.

On the northern border with Guardiola, where the barren, steep slopes of the higher ground give way to gentle terraces, lies one of the most beautiful spots on Mount Etna: Santo Spirito. Here, where the slopes gently descend towards the Alcantara Valley, a paradox of nature is revealed. Whilst neighbouring Guardiola struggles with barren, stony soils, Santo Spirito boasts lush vegetation – deep, rich volcanic ash that nourishes a luxuriant carpet of grass and vigorous vines that display their bountiful vigour.

In 2007, Marco de Grazia discovered a tiny plot in Moganazzi – one of the two vineyards which, together with Guardiola, have always been regarded as the finest terroirs in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia. He bought it without hesitation. The problem: just three barriques of wine. Too little for the market. Too good not to be made into wine. De Grazia decided to donate all the bottles to a charity project run by the Meyer Children’s Hospital in Florence. He had his daughter Elena design the labels. The first ones were created when she was two years old. For ten years, Moganazzi was a gift to sick children. Then, in 2017, de Grazia managed to buy a neighbouring plot and lease another one. For the first time, Moganazzi appeared as an official Terre Nere cru.

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Feudo di Mezzo is perhaps the largest Contrada in the entire Etna DOC – in terms of its homogeneous character, yet with marked differences in quality from plot to plot. Marco de Grazia compares it to the Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy: a vast area capable of producing great wine in its finest parts, and merely good wine in its weaker ones. The best plot in Feudo di Mezzo – de Grazia’s plot – is called: Il Quadro delle Rose. The Rose Plot. Castiglione di Sicilia, 650 metres, north-facing. 1.5 hectares, vines aged between 40 and 80 years on deep, ash-rich volcanic soils. 5,500 bottles per vintage. Il Quadro delle Rose is always the first vineyard to be harvested – and de Grazia explains why this shapes its character: the earlier harvest yields the most open, generous and soft wines of the entire estate.

An old, disused railway line runs through the countryside of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. It no longer goes anywhere – the rails are rusting, the land is slowly becoming overgrown. But it still exists as a border. It separates the Contrada Cottanera from the Contrada Diciasettesalme. And it gives this wine its precise geographical name: "beyond the railway". Diciasettesalme is one of the oldest vineyard names in Etna viticulture. Its name comes from a historical Sicilian unit of measurement – the salma, an area that a mule could plough in one day. Seventeen of these correspond to around 25 hectares. On this land, Nerello Mascalese grows on black lava sands and clay-rich volcanic soils at an altitude of 750 to 800 metres – one of the coolest and most exposed sites in the entire appellation area.

Santo Spirito is one of the most striking contrade on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna – less stony than Rampante, but no less impressive. Here, at an altitude of around 700 metres, the old Nerello Mascalese vines are deeply rooted in ashy volcanic soil with a high sand content. The microclimate is cooler, the humidity higher and the east-facing exposure gives the grapes gentle morning warmth. Pietradolce vinifies the single-vineyard wine traditionally with spontaneous fermentation in wooden vats, followed by approx. 12 months of ageing in large French tonneaux.

Feudo di Mezzo is located in the heart of the northern Etna belt – one of the oldest and most traditional contrade around Castiglione di Sicilia. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of around 750 metres on ancient lava flows and iron-rich volcanic soils that produce dark fruit, mineral depth and remarkable elegance. The microclimate is cool, the exposure ideal – large temperature differences between day and night favour slow, complete ripening. Feudo di Mezzo is not considered one of the Grand Cru from the volcano for nothing. The pure Nerello Mascalese comes from vines that are over 60 years old and trained as Alberello. The grapes are harvest manually in small crates, followed by a traditional maceration with a long standing time at controlled temperatures. The wine then matures for 14 months in Liters French oak tonneaux before resting for a further year in the bottle.

Initially, the wines from Etna led a rather shadowy existence; the great potential of the wines, some of which were produced in very small quantities, usually only delighted connoisseurs. Even today, many of the winegrowers are still so-called insider tips, as the wines produced in small quantities hardly appear on the international markets, or only in very homeopathic quantities. Like us here at SUPERIORE.DE, Angelo Gaja recognised the incomparable elegance and class, the minerality and the purist style of the Nerello and Carricante grapes early on and therefore entered into a joint venture with Alberto Graci a few years ago.