Formats

The great estates in Bordeaux have shown the way: a so-called "second wine" is not the wine that didn't make it. It is another argument. Younger vines, different plots, shorter ageing periods – and thus a wine that is drunk earlier, appears fresher and shows a different side of the same terroir. Tenuta San Leonardo brought this concept to the Dolomites in 2005.

Since 1977, a different bird has adorned every Castellare label – a tribute to the biodiversity of the Tuscan vineyards and a symbol of Paolo Panerai's vision of preserving the authentic Chianti Classico. The estate consistently eschews international grape varieties in favour of Tuscan tradition: 95% Sangioveto, the noble local Sangiovese clone, and 5% Canaiolo form the classic formula of Italy's most famous red wine. The grapes grow on chalky soils between 350 and 400 metres above sea level in Castellina in Chianti, where they develop their typical elegance. After vinification, the wine matures for seven months in French barriques.

In the western heart of Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, lie the four historic vineyards of Castello di Monsanto: Il Poggio, Scanni, Il Mulino and Il Salcio. On 72 hectares between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, surrounded by a Mediterranean biotope of cypresses, junipers, brooms and strawberry trees, predominantly Sangiovese vines thrive on the characteristic Galestro soils – the slate-like rock that gives the wines depth and powerful characteristics. The Bianchi family has consistently favoured the quality of Sangiovese for over 60 years and created the first Chianti Classico cru in 1962 with Il Poggio. The Annata is made from a selection of grapes from the younger vineyards, which are particularly suitable for ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. 90% Sangiovese is complemented by 10% Canaiolo and Colorino – a classic blend that combines freshness and accessibility with the characteristic depth of the Monsanto terroir.

There are no fixed rules at Zýmē, only the pursuit of experimentation to offer a unique and honest experience that also conveys the character of each individual vintage. Il Bianco From Black to White (sealed with a glass cork) opens with a golden colour and a whitish sheen typical of grapes that have no skin contact. The predominant grape variety is Rondinella Bianca, a mutation that was only discovered by chance in the vineyards of Zýmē and is unique in Italy.

In the heart of the prestigious Le Sondraie vineyard, just a few kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, Marilisa Allegrini's very personal favourite wine thrives. Solosole epitomises the intimate connection between the Mediterranean Vermentino grape variety and the unique Bolgheri terroir – a wine that is like the "fruit of the sunlight", as its name suggests. This 100% Vermentino comes from specially selected Corsican clones that benefit from the exceptional abundance of light on the Tuscan coast. The prolonged sun-ripening intensifies the aromas and flavours, while the night-time harvest guarantees stress-free grapes with intact aromatic precursors.

This characterful Greco di Tufo comes from high-altitude plots around Lapio, where Clelia Romano works meticulously and skilfully on volcanic-calcareous soils. Alèxandros is matured in stainless steel tanks in order to bring the varietal typicity and mineral character of the terroir unadulterated into the glass. The typical salinity of Greco is elegantly emphasised here. A purist, serious white wine with depth of origin and a clear signature – typical Colli di Lapio, typical Lapio.

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

While the whole world was talking about the extinction of Trebbiano di Soave, the three Tessari sisters set out on a mission: to save an almost forgotten grape variety. In collaboration with Professor Attilio Scienza from the University of Milan, they selected the best clones of old Trebbiano vines and planted the Massifitti vineyard in 2006 – named after the "dense rocks", the large, compact basalt boulders that characterise the south-facing slope. Only two hectares at an altitude of 300 metres, where the volcanic minerality shows itself in its purest form. What is produced here is unique: probably the only single-varietal Trebbiano di Soave in the world. It matures for 15 months in stainless steel on the fine lees, then a further 12 months in the bottle before the sisters release it.

I Giganti Bianco combines Vernaccia and Vermentino, carefully composed and matured in stainless steel and for seven months in tonneaux on the fine lees. A technical decision that lends substance to the structure without masking the vibrant freshness. Brilliant straw yellow with a delicate golden shimmer – even the light has a differentiated and lively effect. A complex bouquet unfolds on the nose: white spices, camomile and macchia flavours emerge, resting on a base of freshness and elegance. The palate follows with a clear, delicate texture: taut fruit, salty minerality and a lively acidity – all kept in balance. The finish is lingering, finely flavoured and with finesse.

Here is one of the most beautiful interpretations of the white Carricante grape variety, matured for six months on the fine lees. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at an altitude of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock that is rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunlight and strong day-night fluctuations, characterises this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is vinified purely in stainless steel in order to bring the purity of the grape variety and the terroir unadulterated into the glass.

70% Nero d'Avola and 30% Frappato from organic cultivation around the historic Dorilli estate between Vittoria and Acate. The vines are rooted in red sandy soils over limestone and the microclimate is characterised by a maritime climate. After careful manual harvesting and maceration, the wine matures for 12 months in large wooden barrels – a deliberately traditional interpretation of Sicily's only DOCG wine.

Efeso is probably the most elegant white wine produced by Librandi – a single-varietal Mantonico, an old Calabrian grape variety with a long history and great potential. The grapes come from high-altitude, well-ventilated vineyards around Strongoli, where the warmth of the south meets the freshness of the night and ripening is slow and controlled. The wine is matured in barriques with regular bâtonnage – a deliberately Burgundian approach for an indigenous wine.

Valgiano should be experienced if you want to know your way around the world of biodynamic viticulture. Now Mazzapink has been added! Already the design distinguishes it from the other wines of the estate: the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro in Lucca's centre can be found on the label as well as the Valgian-(h)orn, a work of art at the entrance of the winery. The artist Sara Di Giovanni translated the specifications into the form of a comic strip, as Lucca is considered one of the centres of European comic art.

In the heart of Chianti Classico, where the hills of Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti meet, lies the historic Castello di Fonterutoli estate. Owned by the Marchesi Mazzei family since 1435, this Chianti Classico represents the epitome of a centuries-old winemaking tradition. The grapes come from 114 individually cultivated plots between 220 and 570 metres above sea level, each with its own microclimate and terroir. Composed mainly of Sangiovese, supplemented by small proportions of Malvasia Nera and Colorino, each parcel is vinified and matured separately in order to preserve the extraordinary diversity of flavours and complexity.

Fiore di Campo, based on Friulano, is no more and no less than the self-proclaimed "family wine" of the Lis Neris house, and that is entirely justified: pretty straw yellow with green-gold reflections. Enticing mineral and citrus nose with notes of peach, jasmine, almonds and liquorice. Firm, fresh and crisp on the palate of apricot and green apple, plus a lovely creamy texture. Its full body and gentle complexity marry in a final with considerable freshness and high drinkability. Perfect entry into the world of Lis Neris' terrific white wines. SUPERIORE.DE

"Il Repertorio" - "The Register". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary.