Brunello di Montalcino “Centenario” Riserva DOCG 2020

Eredi Fuligni | Tuscany
Az. Agr. Eredi Fuligni | Via Soccorso Saloni 33 | IT 53024 Montalcino

09512220 · 0,75 l · 198,67 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shippingavailable immediately

At Fuligni, the Riserva is not a matter of course. It is produced only when a vintage deserves it – and when the estate's oldest vineyards have yielded something that is more than just Brunello. More than just good. 1972, 1976, 2002: vintages in which Fuligni simply did not release any Brunello at all because the quality wasn't up to standard. Such consistency is rare, for one must be able to afford it and be willing to do so. It is also the foundation upon which a Riserva acquires its very special significance. 2020 was no easy year. Warm, dry, early-ripening – a vintage that many producers dismissed as too opulent, too soft. Fuligni saw it differently. The north-east-facing vineyards in Cottimelli, at altitudes of between 380 and 450 metres, on Galestro soil – stony, cool, with natural acidity even in hot years – tempered the heat and preserved the freshness. What proved a challenge in flatter, warmer sites resulted here in concentrated, healthy grapes with depth and surprising elegance. The estate's oldest vines, over forty years old, with reduced yields and highly concentrated juice, provided the grapes for this selection.

Paolo Vagaggini, whose family has been involved with the Fuligni winery since the 1960s, decided: Riserva. Fermentation in stainless steel, with contact with the lees after fermentation – a quarter of the wine in 5-hectolitre Allier tonneaux, three quarters in large Slavonian barrels of 20 to 30 hectolitres. Three and a half years' ageing in wood, then bottled. Five years' total ageing, as prescribed by the DOCG. Aged in the cellars of the Palazzo – beneath the 17th-century Medici building, in vaults that are even older than the house above them.

A deep ruby-garnet colour with a lighter rim. The nose is dense and complex: dried cherry, plum jam, cedarwood, tobacco, and a subtle balsamic note reminiscent of old leather and mountain herbs. Full-bodied on the palate, with a silky tannin structure that strikes a rare balance between power and approachability. The final is long and mineral, with a spicy aftertaste. A Riserva that doesn't wait for you to understand it – yet still has decades ahead of it. SUPERIORE.DE

"A brilliant ruby red, glossy and sparkling. Precise and clear on the nose, with notes of precious wood, cranberries, forest floor, a hint of black truffle and ripe cherries. Enormously juicy and crisp on the palate, it unfolds with radiant red berry fruit, sweet and intricately woven, displaying immense finesse and elegance – absolutely world-class!" Falstaff

"The Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020 blends abundant notes of dried black cherries with dusty cedarwood spice boxes, a hint of tobacco, worn leather and mint. It feels seamless, with silky depths of ripe red berry fruit, whilst crisp mineral notes and a hint of citrus build tension towards the finish. Tannic, chewy and long, the 2020 reveals its heroic structure, whilst nuances of blood orange provide a lovely counterpoint beneath a hint of rosy floral notes." Vinous

"The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva displays sweet fruit, soft tannins and a medium to full body, with a profile that is more open and accessible than is usual for this category. Although it is already generous and full-bodied, thanks to its balance and underlying structure – a hallmark of Fuligni's traditional Riserva wines – the wine should still benefit from further ageing in the cellar." Vinous

"It is clearly in its youthful phase and currently exudes dark red cherry and pomegranate, underscored by sweet spice and an exotic hint of mahogany oil. Grenadine and candied violets permeate the palate. The tannins are firm and refined, underpinning the wine's substantial core. The wine is on the verge of tipping the balance, whilst the fresh acidity propels it forward effortlessly." Decanter

"This is an outstanding wine with great complexity. Classic aromas of liquorice, crushed stone, red cherries, wild strawberries, smoke, woodland and earth. Full-bodied, juicy, velvety and dense, with a long, spicy finish." James Suckling