Emidio Pepe

In the vineyards of Torano Nuovo, where the hills of northern Abruzzo lie between the Gran Sasso and the Adriatic Sea, the pepfamily's Trebbiano vines are over 50 years old. Their roots burrow down through the top 40 centimetres of loamy soil into the massive limestone rock that gives this area its mineral character. The temperature fluctuations between day and night, guaranteed by the proximity to the mountain massif, promote the development of intense flavours, while the sea breezes from the Adriatic give the Trebbiano the minerality and saltiness that make it so unmistakable. This Trebbiano Abruzzese – a unique clone that is clearly different from the inferior Trebbiano Toscano – delivers in this "Selezione Vecchie Vigne" the pure essence of what the Abruzzo terroir can produce in white wine.

Pecorino – an autochthonous grape variety from the border region between southern Marche and northern Abruzzo, traditionally cultivated at high altitudes, where it develops its characteristic fullness and generosity. For the pepfamily, this wine was a new challenge when they planted one and a half hectares of vines in 2007: to vinify an unknown grape variety according to the same radical biodynamic principles as Trebbiano and Montepulciano and to subject it to the test of long maturation, which Emidio pepsees as the key to refinement and elegance. The first vintage, 2010, proved that Pecorino not only has immediate beauty, but also the ageing potential that Emidio describes as "the wine of the future". Today, this Pecorino is the winery's smallest production – a white rarity that shows how this noble grape variety can reach its peak under the hands of uncompromising craftsmen.

Just 300 metres from Casa pepand yet a completely different world: Branella, 2 hectares acquired by Emidio pepin 1981 – a vineyard that had already been planted in 1966 and was registered in the 1984 land register. The south-western orientation differs from Casa pepdirect southern exposure, and while silt dominates there, Branella shows an extraordinary geological diversity within the plot: In the northern, higher part, classic "speckled" blue-toned marl, in the centre a pronounced sandy zone with a lower, almost neutral pH, underneath deeper deposits of clay and calcium carbonate. The sandier, cooler soils allow the roots to penetrate deeply, while the mottled lenses of precipitated limestone create a different perception of acidity and freshness. Chiara pepand geologist Brenna Quigley realised in their multi-year study that these terroir-related differences justify vinifying Branella as a wine in its own right – a wine that does not possess the exuberant power of Casa pep, but rather agility, precision and a faster rhythm.

Where the 2021 Branella was characterised by vigorous vegetative development and the saving summer rains, the 2022 shows the finesse and elegance of a vintage that has found exceptional refinement through later pruning and slower, controlled development. The sandier soils of Branella with their cooler temperatures, the speckled lenses of limestone that create different perceptions of acidity, and the deeper root systems that allow the vines to find nutrients even in difficult moments – all these factors come together in this vintage to create a wine that impresses not with its power, but with its precision, clarity and almost dancing lightness.

There are vineyards that are more than just plots of land. They are part of the family history, witnesses to generations who have worked and lived here. Casa pepis one such place: the vineyard directly in front of the winery in Torano Nuovo, 0.8 hectares, which Emidio pepplanted in 1974 with a careful mass selection. Between 1972 and 1974, he grafted the best genetic material he could find on various Montepulciano plots in the region onto rootstock from 1970 – an old technique when there were no nurseries and winegrowers had to master grafting themselves. The result is an extraordinary genetic diversity: under the old pergola, each vine has slightly different leaves, slightly different grapes – and yet, in DNA tests, always Montepulciano. A living archive of this noble grape variety. With a southern exposure and plenty of morning sun, Casa pepbenefits from the silt-dominated soils that give the Montepulciano the fullness and expressiveness that make it the richest and most opulent of the two new single-vineyard wines.

Decanted, tested and re-corked at the winery | Ruby red colour with violet reflections and a black core. Dark forest berries such as blackberries and mulberries on the nose, underpinned by warm undergrowth notes. Then ripe blood oranges and subtle cedar notes. On the palate, it is defined by flavours of liquorice, the tannins are close-knit and low-pore, reminiscent of the finest dark chocolate and control the generously juicy fruit with their delicate play. Armed for many years of bottle ageing, we recommend reaching for a carafe in its youthful stage. Then it reveals itself with stimulatingly tart flavours of dark tobacco and enormous pressure, dark, dense and rich with an orchestral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine like a contemporary document: the Selezione Vecchie Vigne 2000 by Emidio pepstands for a unique quality standard - biodynamically produced, matured for decades, then uncorked by hand, checked by Emidio, re-corked and only then released for sale. The result is a rarity that not only bottles history, but brings it back to life. The grapes come from the estate's oldest vines, some of which are ungrafted, cultivated according to biodynamic principles and harvested in a peak vintage with a mild spring, hot summer and small, concentrated harvest. Fermentation took place spontaneously, without temperature control, in glass fibre vats - ageing without wood, without filtration.