Wine

There is this one moment when Graziano Merotto stops explaining and simply puts his glass down to observe his counterpart. This wine is that very special moment. Integral: undivided, unmediated, without abbreviation – bone dry.

Dolcetto is the third voice in the Piedmontese trio – after Nebbiolo and Barbera, the most accessible, the most immediate. No grand gestures, no long maturation periods. Instead: flavour, fruit, liveliness. Prunotto specifically captures these characteristics – the wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel tanks so as not to overpower the typical freshness and fruitiness of the variety. 100% Dolcetto from vineyards around Alba. Maceration for six days at a controlled 27–28°C, malolactic fermentation until mid-December – then steel, nothing more.

Castello di Semivicoli is a great Rosso from the Chieti area and Masciarelli's first red wine cuvée. The vines in the vineyards of the province of L'Aquila were planted by Gianni Masciarelli in 2003. Medium-bodied purple red. On the nose black berries and nice peppery notes with some tobacco, violets and vanilla. Powerful and silky on the palate, polished tannin and a wonderfully fruity finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright ruby colour with a violet rim. Juicy red cherry and blackberry on the nose, with violets and a fine hint of bitter almond – open, inviting and typically Dolcetto. Fresh and straightforward on the palate: juicy fruit, fine, ripe tannins and an invigorating, well-integrated acidity make for a lively and enjoyable wine. The final is clear, with a delicate almond note and a cool, mineral accent. A classic Dolcetto full of character from Pio Cesare, uncomplicated in the very best sense of the word, with style, precision and a beautiful drinking flow. SUPERIORE.DE

Barbara Widmer's Chianti Classico emphasises clarity and origin: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 metres), on limestone and clay soils with south to south-west exposure. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by around twelve months in stainless steel and cement on the fine lees – deliberately without the use of wood to allow the grape variety to speak purely and precisely. Bright ruby red in colour with a cherry-red core. Juicy cherry, redcurrant and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbs and wet stone. Straightforward and animating on the palate: fresh, finely chiselled acidity, taut, young tannins and a salty, minerally finish that gives length. A classic, straightforward Chianti Classico with elegant tension, clear fruit, cool contours and a very nice drinking flow. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigna di Gabri is a classic white wine with high standards that realises the idea of an elegant, autochthonous Sicilian wine in a refined form. Ansonica (Inzolia) forms the basis, supplemented by smaller proportions of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Catarratto – a finely balanced cuvée with origin and style. The grapes come from the hills of Contessa Entellina, where limestone-rich soils and high altitudes ensure freshness and aromatic complexity. Bright straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. The bouquet smells of white peach, candied lemon, herbs and some broom, underpinned by fine mineral notes. Structured and smooth on the palate, with clear fruit, fine flavour and well-integrated acidity. A well-balanced, pleasantly dry white wine with fine complexity – ideal with fish, white meat or Sicilian cuisine with a fresh herbal flavour. For us, Vigna di Gabri is and remains one of the discreet and high-quality classics in Donnafugata's portfolio. SUPERIORE.DE

Kretzer – that sounds rougher than the wine is. The old South Tyrolean word for rosé, once derived from the tart freshness of unripe berries, now has a completely different character: fruity, lively, with the unmistakable temperament of Lagrein. Because Lagrein is pure South Tyrol – an indigenous grape variety that has been at home between Bolzano and Terlano for centuries. As a rosé wine, it shows a side that the strong red wine does not always reveal: Lightness, freshness, accessibility. The grapes grow at an altitude of 250 to 280 metres in the flat, sunny vineyards around Terlan. Hand-picked, gentle pressing of the whole bunches, slow fermentation in steel – 6 to 7 months on the fine lees.

Calabria showed its sunniest side in the warm, dry year of 2023. The single-varietal Magliocco from the "Megonio" vineyard benefited from this constellation with deeply ripe grapes, concentrated fruit and healthy berry skins. The vinification process was classic: temperature-controlled mash fermentation, followed by ageing in barriques for around a year – enough to create structure without masking the authenticity of the variety.

Novaserra Greco di Tufo is the most famous white wine icon from Mastroberardino – a prime example of the depth and elegance that this grape variety can achieve. The grapes come from the best vineyards around Tufo, where calcareous and sulphurous soils give the wine its distinctive mineral signature. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose seduces with yellow plum, candied lemon, ripe pear, lime blossom and a hint of flint. Dense and harmonious on the palate, with ripe fruit, fine herbal spice and a salty vein. A Greco di Tufo of calibre every year – powerful, elegant and clear in its terroir expression. SUPERIORE.DE

Ornello is an open wine with beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar wood, dried herbs, tobacco and incense. All of this has a pleasant depth. Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and a juicy, ripe finish. Very good value. SUPERIORE.DE

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still looking the other way. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-west Tuscany was not yet a wine region in the modern sense. This belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal work – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100 per cent Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. Syrah is known in Maremma primarily as a powerful red wine. To press it as a rosé – transparent, fresh, elegant – requires precision.

Floramundi combines the sensual power of Nero d'Avola with the elegance of Frappato – a classic Cerasuolo di Vittoria that charmingly harmonises the DOCG origin, freshness and finesse. The vines grow in south-east Sicily on red sand and limestone soils around Vittoria. Maturation in stainless steel tanks followed by ageing in the bottle preserves the freshness and aromatic expressiveness of this traditional appellation.

L'Altro is one of the house classics. A Langhe Chardonnay full of character that combines the clarity of the stainless steel, the fine spiciness of the wood and the subtle depth of the lees in a very charming way. The grapes come from higher-lying parcels around Treiso, Serralunga d'Alba and Trezzo Tinella; harvested cool and vinified parcel by parcel. Around three quarters are fermented in stainless steel, the smaller part in French barriques; the wine then remains on the fine lees for several months – regularly stirred for more texture and complexity.

The name reveals the concept: Cinquanta – fifty – stands for the fifty-fifty split between Primitivo and Negroamaro, the two leading grape varieties of Salento. With this cuvée, Cantine San Marzano, founded in 1962 as a winegrowers' cooperative and now one of the largest producers in Apulia with over 1,200 members, has created a wine with an immediate impact. The grapes come from vines of different ages on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of the province of Taranto. After the harvest, maceration takes place at a controlled temperature, followed by twelve months of ageing in wooden barrels.

Rosa Mara is undoubtedly one of the favourite wines of Mattia Vezzola, who is dedicated to reinterpreting a historic vinification method that has been practised in this region since the 18th century. This Chiaretto is produced using the traditional "a lacrima" method, in which the grapes are pressed gently and carefully so that they begin to "cry". To achieve the perfect colour, the tone of the rosato is constantly monitored during production. Speaking of perfect: with this wine, Mattia proves how masterfully he has mastered this process and brought it to absolute perfection.

Goldmuskateller is one of the oldest grape varieties in South Tyrol, which until a few years ago was still considered moody and demanding. Manincor shows what this diva can become when given the right sites: Mareit Leiten at 350 metres, extremely steeply exposed to the south with warm gravel soils and moraine deposits. In addition, Vogelleiten and Panholzer with loamy limestone gravel soil – sites where the exuberant growth of the Muscat is tamed and reaches perfect ripeness. The destemmed berries macerate in the press for twelve hours to extract flavour and structure from the skins. Fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and steel tanks, mostly spontaneously with wild yeasts. During the five-month maturation on the fine lees, the aroma and flavour are refined – the wine develops the balance between fruit and minerality that characterises dry Muscat.

The mulberry tree gave it its name. In Valtellina, it stood between the rows of vines for centuries, providing shade, bearing fruit and forming part of the landscape. Today it has become rare – but its name lives on in this wine, as a silent homage to the old mountain agriculture of this region. 100% Chiavennasca – the local name for the Nebbiolo of Valtellina – from vineyards in different subzones. What distinguishes the Mazér from the classic zone typologies is a small detail with a big effect: a small proportion of the grapes are dried for a few days. The concentrated must from these dried berries is added to the main wine – a touch of the Sforzato principle (appassimento), enough to soften the tannins and weave dark fruit flavours deeper into the bouquet. The result is a Valtellina Superiore with the freshness and purity of the mountains – and a velvety accessibility that makes it enjoyable earlier.

Lagrein – the "local hero" of South Tyrol, as cellar master Rudi Kofler calls it. Originally native to Bolzano, this indigenous grape variety has long since found a home in the Terlan area. Founded in 1893, the winery, the first co-operative in the village and today one of the most prestigious addresses for South Tyrolean white wines, also cultivates this traditional red variety with its own meticulousness. Harvested by hand, destemmed and fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, the wine then matures for 7–10 months in large wooden barrels. This ageing process gives the Lagrein its velvety structure without overpowering the fruit.

An exceptionally characterful and powerful Cerasuolo di Vittoria made from equal parts Frappato and Nero d'Avola. On the nose, it displays a pure bouquet of sweet violets, black cherries and hints of wet stone. It impresses with its silky texture, enveloping the palate with bright red and blue fruits, along with a refreshing wave of juicy acidity. Hints of spiced orange and inner flowers linger long into the well-structured, long final. Perfect at the table. SUPERIORE.DE