Wine

There is this one moment when Graziano Merotto stops explaining and simply puts his glass down to observe his counterpart. This wine is that very special moment. Integral: undivided, unmediated, without abbreviation – bone dry.

Dolcetto is the third voice in the Piedmontese trio – after Nebbiolo and Barbera, the most accessible, the most immediate. No grand gestures, no long maturation periods. Instead: flavour, fruit, liveliness. Prunotto specifically captures these characteristics – the wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel tanks so as not to overpower the typical freshness and fruitiness of the variety. 100% Dolcetto from vineyards around Alba. Maceration for six days at a controlled 27–28°C, malolactic fermentation until mid-December – then steel, nothing more.

Castello di Semivicoli is a great Rosso from the Chieti area and Masciarelli's first red wine cuvée. The vines in the vineyards of the province of L'Aquila were planted by Gianni Masciarelli in 2003. Medium-bodied purple red. On the nose black berries and nice peppery notes with some tobacco, violets and vanilla. Powerful and silky on the palate, polished tannin and a wonderfully fruity finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright ruby colour with a violet rim. Juicy red cherry and blackberry on the nose, with violets and a fine hint of bitter almond – open, inviting and typically Dolcetto. Fresh and straightforward on the palate: juicy fruit, fine, ripe tannins and an invigorating, well-integrated acidity make for a lively and enjoyable wine. The final is clear, with a delicate almond note and a cool, mineral accent. A classic Dolcetto full of character from Pio Cesare, uncomplicated in the very best sense of the word, with style, precision and a beautiful drinking flow. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigna di Gabri is a classic white wine with high standards that realises the idea of an elegant, autochthonous Sicilian wine in a refined form. Ansonica (Inzolia) forms the basis, supplemented by smaller proportions of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Catarratto – a finely balanced cuvée with origin and style. The grapes come from the hills of Contessa Entellina, where limestone-rich soils and high altitudes ensure freshness and aromatic complexity. Bright straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. The bouquet smells of white peach, candied lemon, herbs and some broom, underpinned by fine mineral notes. Structured and smooth on the palate, with clear fruit, fine flavour and well-integrated acidity. A well-balanced, pleasantly dry white wine with fine complexity – ideal with fish, white meat or Sicilian cuisine with a fresh herbal flavour. For us, Vigna di Gabri is and remains one of the discreet and high-quality classics in Donnafugata's portfolio. SUPERIORE.DE

Goldmuskateller is one of South Tyrol's oldest grape varieties, which until a few years ago was still regarded as temperamental and demanding. Manincor demonstrates what this "diva" is capable of when given the right sites: Mareit Leiten at 350 metres, with an extremely steep south-facing slope featuring warm gravelly soils and moraine deposits. Added to this are Vogelleiten and Panholzer, with loamy limestone gravel soils – sites where the Muscat's exuberant growth is tamed and perfect ripeness is achieved. The destemmed berries macerate for twelve hours in the press to extract aroma and structure from the skins. Fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and steel tanks, largely spontaneously with wild yeasts. During the five-month ageing on the fine lees, the aroma and flavour become more refined – and the wine develops that balance between fruit and minerality which characterises dry Muscat wines.

Kretzer – it sounds rougher than the wine actually is. This old South Tyrolean word for rosé, once derived from the tart freshness of unripe berries, has a completely different character today: fruity, lively, with the unmistakable temperament of Lagrein. For Lagrein is South Tyrol in its purest form – an indigenous grape variety that has been at home between Bolzano and Terlano for centuries. As a rosé, it reveals a side that the full-bodied red does not always show: lightness, freshness and approachability. The grapes grow at altitudes of 250 to 280 metres in the flat, sun-drenched vineyards around Terlan. Hand-harvested, gently pressed as whole bunches, slow fermentation in stainless steel – 6 to 7 months on the fine lees.

Calabria showed its sunniest side in the warm, dry year of 2023. The single-varietal Magliocco from the "Megonio" vineyard benefited from this constellation with deeply ripe grapes, concentrated fruit and healthy berry skins. The vinification process was classic: temperature-controlled mash fermentation, followed by ageing in barriques for around a year – enough to create structure without masking the authenticity of the variety.

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this Rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still turning a blind eye. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-western Tuscany was not yet a wine-growing region in the modern sense. That belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal creation – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100% Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. In the Maremma, Syrah is primarily known as a powerful red wine. Turning it into a rosé – transparent, fresh and elegant – requires precision.

Rosa Mara is undoubtedly one of the favourite wines of Mattia Vezzola, who is dedicated to reinterpreting a historic vinification method that has been practised in this region since the 18th century. This Chiaretto is produced using the traditional "a lacrima" method, in which the grapes are pressed gently and carefully so that they begin to "cry". To achieve the perfect colour, the tone of the rosato is constantly monitored during production. Speaking of perfect: with this wine, Mattia proves how masterfully he has mastered this process and brought it to absolute perfection.

The mulberry tree gave it its name. In Valtellina, it stood between the rows of vines for centuries, providing shade, bearing fruit and forming part of the landscape. Today it has become rare – but its name lives on in this wine, as a silent homage to the old mountain agriculture of this region. 100% Chiavennasca – the local name for the Nebbiolo of Valtellina – from vineyards in different subzones. What distinguishes the Mazér from the classic zone typologies is a small detail with a big effect: a small proportion of the grapes are dried for a few days. The concentrated must from these dried berries is added to the main wine – a touch of the Sforzato principle (appassimento), enough to soften the tannins and weave dark fruit flavours deeper into the bouquet. The result is a Valtellina Superiore with the freshness and purity of the mountains – and a velvety accessibility that makes it enjoyable earlier.

Floramundi combines the sensual power of Nero d'Avola with the elegance of Frappato – a classic Cerasuolo di Vittoria that charmingly harmonises the DOCG origin, freshness and finesse. The vines grow in south-east Sicily on red sand and limestone soils around Vittoria. Maturation in stainless steel tanks followed by ageing in the bottle preserves the freshness and aromatic expressiveness of this traditional appellation.

L'Altro is one of the house classics. A Langhe Chardonnay full of character that combines the clarity of the stainless steel, the fine spiciness of the wood and the subtle depth of the lees in a very charming way. The grapes come from higher-lying parcels around Treiso, Serralunga d'Alba and Trezzo Tinella; harvested cool and vinified parcel by parcel. Around three quarters are fermented in stainless steel, the smaller part in French barriques; the wine then remains on the fine lees for several months – regularly stirred for more texture and complexity.

The name reveals the concept: Cinquanta – fifty – stands for the fifty-fifty split between Primitivo and Negroamaro, the two leading grape varieties of Salento. With this cuvée, Cantine San Marzano, founded in 1962 as a winegrowers' cooperative and now one of the largest producers in Apulia with over 1,200 members, has created a wine with an immediate impact. The grapes come from vines of different ages on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of the province of Taranto. After the harvest, maceration takes place at a controlled temperature, followed by twelve months of ageing in wooden barrels.

Barbara Widmer’s Chianti Classico has for years been characterised by clarity and terroir: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 m), on limestone- and clay-rich soils with a south to south-west aspect. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged for around twelve months in stainless steel and cement tanks on the fine lees – deliberately without the use of wood, to allow the grape variety to express itself purely and precisely.

Ornello is an open wine with beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar wood, dried herbs, tobacco and incense. All of this has a pleasant depth. Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and a juicy, ripe finish. Very good value. SUPERIORE.DE

An exceptionally characterful and powerful Cerasuolo di Vittoria made from equal parts Frappato and Nero d'Avola. On the nose, it displays a pure bouquet of sweet violets, black cherries and hints of wet stone. It impresses with its silky texture, enveloping the palate with bright red and blue fruits, along with a refreshing wave of juicy acidity. Hints of spiced orange and inner flowers linger long into the well-structured, long final. Perfect at the table. SUPERIORE.DE

Novaserra Greco di Tufo is Mastroberardino's most famous iconic white wine – a prime example of the depth and elegance this grape variety can achieve. The grapes come from the finest vineyards around Tufo, where limestone and sulphurous soils lend the wine its distinctive mineral character. In the glass, it is a luminous straw yellow with golden highlights. The nose entices with notes of yellow plum, candied lemon, ripe pear, lime blossom and a hint of flint. On the palate, it is dense and harmonious, with ripe fruit, subtle herbal notes and a salty undertone. Every year, this Greco di Tufo is a wine of distinction: powerful, elegant and with a clear expression of its terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

The name reveals the origin: pepis made up of the classic Sauvignon vineyards Penon and Pinzon, which are located in the municipalities of Kurtatsch and Montan on opposite sides of the valley. A clever move – while one side receives its full ration of sunshine in the morning, the other is only spoilt in the afternoon. The result: grapes from 250 to 550 metres above sea level that ripen on calcareous, loamy, gravelly soils and benefit from extreme day-night fluctuations. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a cool 19°C.

"Le Tense" is made from grapes that come exclusively from the Sassella DOCG subzone. During Swiss rule (1512 - 1797), the best vineyards were "secured" by armed guards, which is how it got its name. They became the most famous vineyards in the appellation. The selection of vines produces a wine that expresses the character of the soil: old stones and rocks that represent the terroir of Sassella. Nebbiolo from Sassella produces elegant aromas and delicate, harmonious flavours that are typical of the alpine reds of Valtellina.