wine classics

The Conca d'Oro – the golden basin. This is what the winegrowers of Panzano call the natural depression in the terrain south of Greve, where the sun arrives earlier and stays longer than elsewhere in Chianti Classico. The slope, the Galestro-Alberese soil, the air circulation between the hills: everything comes together to create a microclimate that gives the Sangiovese the depth and fruit ripeness that is exceptional elsewhere, year after year. Gagliole lies at the centre of it all – a small, carefully managed winery that has been showing what Panzano can achieve in this price range since the Riserva première in the 2018 vintage. 100% Sangiovese from vines over twenty years old, organically farmed, hand-picked, fermented in steel. What follows is a well thought-out ageing process: ten months in small used oak barrels, then five months in cement tanks – a combination that gives the wine structure without over-moulding it. Only 11,000 bottles.

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name says it all for a winery that has been one of the style-defining houses of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first to switch to organic farming here – back in 1988, when the word "organic" still raised eyebrows in the winegrowing world. Querciabella has been working biodynamically since 2000 and today cultivates the largest biodynamically certified vineyard area in Italy. The fact that Daniele Cernilli (Dr Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as no surprise to anyone who knows these wines. The Riserva combines Sangiovese from three of the best sites in Chianti Classico: Greve brings vibrancy and bright fruit, Radda taut tannins and dark berry notes, Gaiole riper fruit and distinctive limestone minerality. The altitude of between 350 and 550 metres ensures cool nights and slow ripening. Each parcel is vinified and matured individually in the cellar – micro-vinification, which preserves the terroir of each vineyard and only combines it into a multi-layered whole in the final blend. 16 months in French barriques and tonneaux lend structure without dominance.

The same triad – calcarole, Pojega, Rovereti – and yet a completely different wine. Where the 2019 offered warmth and richness, the 2021 is more about precision and classic contours. The April frost noticeably reduced yields, but what followed was a gift: a summer in which temperatures never exceeded the critical 33-degree threshold for Corvina. The vines ripened steadily, without heat stress, with cool nights that preserved acidity and flavour. The subsequent appassimento in the historic drying rooms of Pojega took place under ideal conditions – dry, cool and even. The winemakers of Valpolicella simply call 2021 "l'annata perfetta".

1172 – the year in which Volpaia is first mentioned in documents. A small, fortified borgo on a hill north of Radda in Chianti, built as a border fortress between Florence and Siena. Today it is a jewel of peace and beauty and one of the most historic wine villages in Tuscany. Here, where soldiers once stood guard, the Stianti-Mascheroni families now press their grapes within the medieval walls. The bottles mature in the vaults of old churches and almost every cellar contains a tank of organic wine. An entire village dedicated to viticulture. So complete that it becomes poetic again. The Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from vineyards between 400 and 600 metres above sea level. One of the highest wineries in the region. Up here, where the air is thin and the nights are cool, Sangiovese develops the elegance and minerality that makes Volpaia so distinctive. Sandstone, clay and sandy-loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Manual harvest in the second half of September, temperature-controlled vinification, then 24 months in French and Slovenian oak barrels.

The name says it all: Marne means marl soil, on which the vines for this marvellous Amarone grow. They are over 20 years old and lie in an ideal 180° direction, from south-west to south-east. Rich, shiny ruby red colour, compact bouquet with intense aromas of plum, black cherry, green tea and tobacco, with a fine chocolate note in the background. The body, coated in fine berry fruit, develops a dynamic flavour experience on the palate with a sweet fruit melt, firm tannins and a long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Massolino's Barbaresco is the quintessence of finely balanced terroir: Nebbiolo grapes from the Starderi, Albesani and Serraboella cru sites mature together to create a complex yet transparent wine. The 2022 vintage provided a balanced climate – warm days and cool nights – which harmoniously blends freshness, finesse and aromatic richness. The colour in the glass is a medium garnet red with bright reflections. The nose exudes a velvety elegance of red fruits, violets, delicate lavender, spicy notes, crushed rock and a hint of orange peel – pure, lively fragrance with contoured clarity. A medium body full of energy unfolds on the palate: silky tannins, lively acidity and polished, mineral tension are the carriers of a fruit-emphasised depth. The finish lingers for a long time – intensely floral, spicy and with vibrant freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Some vineyards become the property of a family through strategic acquisition, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola took Luisella from nearby Serracapelli as his wife, this union not only brought two people together, but also the Pola family with the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on calcareous soils of medium structure, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in an interpretation that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, but with an elegance that comes to full fruition over the years. What Matteo Pola vinifies from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not with its volume, but with the crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.

"Alma" – the soul in its most reduced form. Where the Extra Brut with minimal dosage still builds a gentle bridge, the Non Dosato takes the most consistent path: zero grams of residual sugar, zero compromises. Since 2024, Bellavista has been writing a new chapter with the Alma Assemblage collection, and the number 2 marks the 2022 vintage – interpreted with absolute purism. Francesca Moretti and Richard Geoffroy, Chef de Cave at Dom Pérignon for twenty-eight years, created this trilogy with a clear vision: Franciacorta not as an imitation of Champagne, but as a world-class terroir in its own right. The Non Dosato is the most uncompromising answer – a wine that hides nothing, embellishes nothing, but reveals the naked truth of the terroir. Alma Non Dosato Assemblage 2 is based on a different balance: 70 per cent Chardonnay, 30 per cent Pinot Nero from thirty selected vineyards, supplemented by reserve wines from earlier vintages. After at least thirty months on the lees, the wine is disgorged without any dosage – the wine is topped up with itself.

"Alma" Rosato – the soul in a delicate pink colour. The third and perhaps most seductive member of the Alma Assemblage trilogy combines elegance with power, delicacy with structure. Bellavista has been writing a new chapter with this collection since 2024, and the Rosé Assemblage 2 from the 2022 vintage shows how contemporary and soulful Franciacorta can be at the same time. Francesca Moretti and Richard Geoffroy, the legendary former Chef de Cave of Dom Pérignon, have developed this line with a clear vision: Franciacorta as a world-class terroir in its own right, not as an imitation. The rosé is the most sensual interpretation of this – a wine that combines depth with lightness. Alma Rosé Assemblage 2 combines grapes from 26 vineyards: 60 per cent Chardonnay for finesse and tension, 40 per cent Pinot Nero for structure and that delicate colour that comes from short maceration directly in the press. Around 25 per cent of the wine is matured in oak before reserve wines from the two previous vintages are added. After at least thirty months on the lees, the wine is disgorged with minimal dosage.

Lodano Rosso is a blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot that is seamlessly integrated with its dark fruits, blackberries and plums, nicely rounded off by smoke and tobacco from French oak and a smaller proportion of American oak. The Merlot comes from the winery's famous old vines, and the contemporary concentration and richness of the Lodano can be found in this wine as well as in the winery's entire portfolio. The dark fruits and spices speak in a deep baritone that calls for a juicy grilled steak, it also offers excellent value! SUPERIORE.DE

Montebello is a sophisticated blend of Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and Sangiovese. Each grape variety is harvested and fermented separately in open Liters barrels with indigenous yeasts and manual racking. A captivating bouquet of dark cherries and earth, with notes of cinnamon, tar and grilled herbs. The defined tannins are accompanied by a beautiful acid wire. A wine with great character and beautiful structure that changes with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that define an appellation. And there are wines that show where an appellation can go. The Gran Selezione from Lilliano belongs to the second category. When the Chianti Classico producers created the new top of the quality pyramid in 2010, there was a great deal of scepticism: is there really a need for another category above the Riserva? Lilliano answered this question with deeds rather than words. While other estates defined their Gran Selezione with an international use of wood and concentrated opulence, Lilliano remained true to its line: tradition, terroir, typicity. The Gran Selezione comes exclusively from the two best single vineyards of the Tenuta – piagge and Casina, both situated at an altitude of around 300 metres, both characterised by the calcareous Alberese soils that make Castellina in Chianti one of the most mineral terroirs in the entire appellation. Piagge is south-facing, fully exposed to the sun, and produces Sangiovese of concentration and vigour. Casina, on the other hand, exposed to the east-south-east, produces Colorino and Sangiovese of elegance and aromatic finesse. Together they produce a cuvée of 90% Sangiovese and 5% each of Colorino and Merlot – an assemblage that seeks perfection within the rules rather than innovation.

The combination of two such different personalities as Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon blend brilliantly in Grifi, giving this wine a unique character. The Cabernet gives the wine an extra kick of depth in the mid-palate as well as a tannic backbone that gives the wine plenty of persistence and energy.

Poggio Anticos Lemartine 2021 combines elegance and depth in an impressive balance. The cuvée of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon matured partly in French oak and retains a precise freshness despite its structure. The 2021 vintage benefited from a moderately warm climate with cool nights, which allowed for slow maturation and great aromatic clarity. Very nuanced on the palate, with dark fruit, fine spice and a hint of graphite - a wine of subtle power and Tuscan nobility. SUPERIORE.DE

Monica Raspi remembers: "I took my first steps as a winemaker in the Omino vineyard. The grapes grown here produce the wine that is the absolute benchmark for my very personal interpretation of the Sangiovese grape."

A classic Franciacorta from the Montenisa vineyards around Calino near Brescia, made from Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and a small proportion of Pinot Bianco. Gently fermented in stainless steel tanks and then matured on the fine lees for around 24 months, it gains elegance and aromatic finesse. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a fine, persistent perlage. Fresh citrus fruits, white peaches, fine brioche notes and a hint of roasted almonds on the nose. Lively and harmonious on the palate, with a creamy texture, fine acidity and a subtle mineral freshness that leads to an elegant, balanced final. A versatile sparkling wine from the Antinori family that shows its class from an aperitif to a refined meal. SUPERIORE.DE

This classic Barolo, based on an exciting blend of plots from Serralunga d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto and Barolo, shows the stylistic signature of the region at its best. The soils are structurally diverse: rich in calcareous marl, loam and mineral intersperses, each parcel contributes its part to the tension of the wine. The 2020 vintage reveals a model year of balance: a cool, precise ripening process with milder temperatures early on, followed by warm but balanced days and cool nights until the harvest. After traditional vinification – including daily pumping over during the 25-day maceration period – the wine matured for around 24–30 months in tonneaux.

Essence Noir is the prestigious top of the Essence line – an Extra Brut made from 100% Pinot Nero, carefully vinified in white using the classic method with perfect dosage. Around 48 months on the lees give it depth, texture and spicy sophistication. On the nose, aromas of yellow citrus fruit, grapefruit, brioche, toasted almond and a hint of dried herbs. On the palate, it is complex and focussed – an ultra-fine perlage carries a dense, yet linear texture. The acidity is precise, the body powerful, yet compact and with terrificinterplay of fruit, flavour and minerality. The long, salty-mineral final is clear and persistent – with a moderate dosage that never overwhelms but leaves an original tension. Essence Noir is a masterpiece of balance. SUPERIORE.DE

Serralunga d'Alba stands for powerful Barolo with depth, structure and astonishing ageing potential. Giovanni Rosso draws the best from this origin: south-east to south-west facing vines on calcareous, clayey-maceous soils at high altitudes (300-350 metres), combined with rigorous natural cultivation. The 2020 vintage recorded optimal ripeness, favoured by warm days, cool nights and a flawless autumn. After careful manual harvesting, each parcel underwent separate 25-day maceration, after which the wine matured for between 24 and 60 months in large oak barrels.

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

A wine that takes its name from the estate's last noble family – and thus from a man who left his mark far beyond the world of wine. Conte Guido Chigi Saracini, born in Siena in 1880, was not only the lord of Poggio Bonelli, but also a passionate patron of music. In 1932, he founded the Accademia Musicale Chigiana, still one of the most renowned centres of musical education in the world today. He spent the mildest seasons of the year on his estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga – where the grapes for this Gran Selezione ripen today. It is the highest level of the Chianti Classico pyramid: exclusively Sangiovese from the best south-facing vineyards between 280 and 360 metres above sea level, where sun and wind guarantee even ripeness and aromatic complexity. Strictly limited yields of 50 quintals per hectare, twelve days of temperature-controlled fermentation, a further ten days of maceration on the skins. Then patience: at least 24 months in French oak, followed by bottle ageing.

The address is Castellina Marittima, twenty kilometres north of Bolgheri – just outside the DOC boundary that decides what name a wine may bear. A bureaucratic fact that changes nothing in terms of content: 14 hectares of organically cultivated vineyards on fossil-rich soils made up of minerals, iron ore, shell limestone and alluvial sand, facing the sea, with strong day-night temperature fluctuations – these are the conditions for which Bolgheri is famous. The estate is the project of two vinophiles: Austrian journalist Stephan Klasmann and Italian Oenologist Andrea di Maio, who previously vinified at Antinori's Guado al Tasso and Isola e Olena's Cepparello. Kappa is their real flagship – a Bordeaux-inspired cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, which is bottled after fourteen months of barrel ageing, with an annual production of around 18,000 bottles.