wine classics

The family-run Andreola winery in Col San Martino was founded in 1984 by Nazzareno Pola in the heart of the Valdobbiadene wine-growing region. In his honour, a beautiful Prosecco Superiore is produced here every year in small batches; the 2024 vintage has once again received the highest accolade from Gambero Rosso. For Stefano Pola, the "Etichetta del Fondatore" represents the ultimate expression of finesse and olfactory elegance that the Glera grape can offer in the heart of the Prosecco Superiore region – combined with the verticality and juiciness imparted by the soils, without ever losing its lightness and drinkability.

In 1090, while Leif Erikson was discovering America and the first universities in Europe were being established, two friends of Abbot Rolando paid "two capons, three loaves of bread and six silver denarii from Lucca" for the annual lease of a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. Nine hundred (Novecento) years later, in 1990, this wine was created as a reminiscence of the incredible journey through the centuries. The grapes thrive between 300 and 420 metres above sea level on stony soils of marl, limestone and galestro. The vines, which are on average 15 years old and cultivated organically as in the early days of this domain, undergo a 14-day spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement vats before maturing for 18 months in large, unroasted French Allier oak barrels.

It was Luigi Veronelli, the Italian wine revolutionary of the 60s and 70s, who convinced Francesco Giuntini that exceptional single vineyards deserve their own voice. Of all the old Poderi from the Mezzadria period, Bucerchiale has always been the best – a south-west facing amphitheatre in the cooler heights of Rufina, where Tuscany approaches the last foothills of the Apennines. Francesco took the plunge in 1979. While the law still stipulated Trebbiano in every Chianti and the wine world favoured quantity, he produced defiant resistance from pure Sangiovese. A 100 per cent Sangiovese from a single vineyard – a revolutionary act at the time that marked the beginning of the Tuscan Renaissance. In 2022, Vigneto Bucerchiale celebrates its 43rd year and embodies a perfect vision. Spontaneous fermentation in steel tanks at 30-32°C with 30 days of maceration allows every nuance of the terroir to unfold before the wine matures 50 per cent in French oak barrels of 25 hl and 50 per cent in barriques – only 15 per cent of which is new.

A Lugana Metodo Classico with superior elegance: Olivini's extra brut made from 100% Turbiana matures for around 36 months on the fine lees and combines freshness, structure and fine complexity. Pale straw yellow in colour with golden reflections and a fine, persistent perlage. On the nose, notes of lemon, white apple and bread crust, subtly accompanied by hints of almond. Clear and dry on the palate, with lively acidity, precise texture and fine mineral tension.

Nearco was unbeatable. 14 starts, 14 wins – derby Italiano, Grand Prix de Paris, and everything in between. Piedmontese breeder Federico Tesio had bred him in 1935 and knew he had something extraordinary on his hands. As war approached, Tesio sold the horse to England for a then world-record £60,000. The British were so impressed that they built Nearco a bomb-proof bunker. Today, he is the genetic ancestor of almost all modern thoroughbreds – from Northern Dancer to Secretariat, from Frankel to Sea the Stars.

Cavolo Amarone is a selection of the best grapes from all the estate's vineyards. It opens with aromas of raspberry jam, dried cherries dusted with cinnamon and cocoa, and wafting notes of cedar and tobacco. The flavours of tart plums and fresh blackberries combine with bay leaf, chia spice, liquorice root and white pepper. Elegant on the palate, with fine tannins and a lively acidity that gives the wine a good basis for ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

While the Chianti Classico Ruspoli Annata shows the accessible, fresh side of Lilliano, the Riserva reveals the depth and maturity that lie dormant in the estate's best parcels. Selected only in outstanding years and from the Tenuta's best vineyards, it represents the potential of the Sangiovese grape on the chalky Alberese soils of Castellina in Chianti. The 2020 vintage is considered exceptional in Tuscany: balanced temperatures, moderate rainfall and a long, warm autumn allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly. The cuvée of 95 per cent Sangiovese and five per cent Merlot is fermented in small stainless steel and cement tanks after selective hand-picking before the wine matures for 14 to 15 months in large French oak barrels – a conscious decision in favour of traditional ageing, which gives the Sangiovese structure without dominating it. A further six months of bottle ageing round off the development.

Cellole Gran Selezione impresses with its usual elegance and sophistication. Its masterfully balanced flavour profile of wild berry and blackberry with cassis, blueberry and candied rose is fantastic. On closer inspection, the wine reveals orange peel, rosemary and iron ore. It is a silky and elegant wine with some firm tannin, lots of bright fruit and a hint of crisp acidity. Undoubtedly a great wine with great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

A commitment, not a compromise: while other Chianti producers have long favoured international varieties, Castellare di Castellina sticks to the authentic formula. No Cabernet, no Merlot – only Sangioveto and Canaiolo, as tradition demands. The grapes for this Riserva ripen in a natural amphitheatre near Castellina, on limestone and galestro between 350 and 400 metres above sea level. Fifteen months in French oak, a further fifteen in the bottle – time enough to mould character without disguising origin.

A rosé full of finesse and freshness, in which the signs of tradition and modern harmony come together perfectly. A delicate peach-pink colour with a light mousse in the glass. The bouquet seduces with notes of ripe strawberry, raspberry, exotic flowers and light brioche spice. Juicy, dry and finely structured on the palate: the subtle acidity carries ripe fruit, the yeasty character lends creaminess, while the finish is clear and persistent – with fine minerality and inner tension. A rosé with personality that can be both an aperitif and an accompaniment to food – charming, vertical and stylish in expression. SUPERIORE.DE

A distinctive interpretation of Chianti Classico: a sparkling ruby colour with a pronounced garnet sheen. A very inviting bouquet of cherries and delicate notes of meadow herbs, with a hint of nuts. Medium-bodied on the palate, with wonderfully juicy fruit once again, a cool, mineral style, very finely structured and balanced, with lively vigour; it has a fairly long finish and leaves you wanting another glass. The perfect accompaniment to Italian dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

There is one decision in the cellar that says it all: no dosage. Zero grams of sugar after dégorgement – no equalisation, no softening, no correction. What goes into the bottle must stand on its own. Christian Bellei makes this decision at La Prima Volta consciously and anew every time: Dosaggio Zero is an attitude. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia. Only the Mosto Fiore – the first, purest part of the gentle pressing – is fermented in steel at a controlled temperature. Bottle fermentation takes place in the spring after the harvest according to the metodo classico, followed by at least 36 months on the lees at a constant 12°C. Rémuage, dégorgement – and instead of the liqueur d'expédition, the same wine is returned to the bottle. Nothing else.

An elegant rosé with a playful balance between fine fruit and lively freshness: the Cuvée Imperiale Max Rosé is made from a balanced proportion of Pinot Nero (Saignée method) and Chardonnay, with traditional bottle fermentation and around 24 months of ageing on the lees ensuring a fine texture and expression. In the glass, it is a delicate old rose colour with a bright shimmer and a lively, creamy perlage. The nose opens with redcurrants and raspberries, a hint of red grapefruit and floral nuances such as rose petals. On the palate, the Extra Dry enchants with its racy freshness, compact fruit structure, integrated residual sweetness and delicate flavour. The finish is dry, mineral and long, with a lingering hint of red fruit. Charming, present and stylishly balanced – perfect with salmon, red tuna or as an invigorating aperitif. SUPERIORE.DE

In the dizzying heights of Lamole, one of the highest appellations in Chianti Classico, the Sangiovese grapes for this exceptional Riserva grow at 470 to 655 metres. The historic terraces of local Macigno del Chianti – the characteristic sandstone that stores the sun's heat during the day and releases it again at night – create a unique microclimate for this organically certified wine. Lareale combines grapes from two of Lamole's best vineyards: "Il Prato" and "Le Masse". 95 per cent Sangiovese, supplemented by five per cent Canaiolo Nero, produce a Chianti Classico of remarkable elegance and oysteriness after optical berry selection and two weeks of maceration. Maturation in oak barrels for over two years gives the wine additional complexity and structure.

The Andreola family winery in Col San Martino was founded in 1984 by Nazzareno Pola in the heart of the Valdobbiadene wine-growing region. In his honour, a wonderful Prosecco Superiore is produced here every year in small batches, which once again received the highest award in the Gambero Rosso for the 2024 vintage. For Stefano Pola, the Etichetta del Fondatore represents the highest expression of finesse and olfactory elegance that the Glera grape can give in the core zone of Prosecco Superiore – combined with the verticality and juiciness that the soils give it, without ever losing its lightness and drinkability.

The Nebbiolo grapes for Matteo's entry-level Barolo come from his three vineyards Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra and Verduno. His style is characterised by a skilful balance between structural depth and accessibility. Brilliant ruby colour with a lively shimmer in the glass. The nose is elegant and multifaceted: wild berries, rose petals, aniseed and a fine herbal note interweave with a delicate undertone of mineral freshness. The tannin structure appears finely integrated in the mouth; clearly defined fruit and present, invigorating acidity characterise the first impression. The finish shows salty residues and an attractive length – elegant, powerful and stylish. This Barolo is a very successful introduction to the region, accessible enough to be enjoyed young, but open to time and ageing. It exemplifies a modern interpretation of the Barolo narrative: without much pathos, but with depth and origin. SUPERIORE.DE

Brilliant golden yellow colour. Complex notes of light peach, fresh pineapple and poached apricot on the nose. Rich and creamy on the palate with accents of smoke and toasted almonds. The finish is long-lasting, mineral and herb-accentuated. This very focussed and complex white paints a beautiful portrait of the refined side of the Trebbiano di Lugana grape, which is becoming increasingly popular. SUPERIORE.DE

Amarone Selezione Antonio Castagnedi delivers high quality at a fantastic price every year. If you've ever had the opportunity to stand in old, hand-fired brick drying sheds, three storeys high, filled with hot steam, leaves tied in bundles, stacked up and up and up, you'll know what this wine smells like. It is an extraordinary odour. It smells of steam-soaked red clay bricks, of tobacco leaves, green, yellow, gold, copper-coloured, brown and of earth, spices, dust and oven smoke. It is the smell of a good Amarone.

Federico Giuntini-Antinori runs the area's most traditional estate, whose family tree can be traced back to the 15th century. Rufina is the northernmost district in Chianti, where the vineyards grow around the Villa di Selvapiana and in the vineyards of San Martino a Quona, Pian de' Marroni and Cerbognole. Mainly Sangiovese with small additions of Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Nera are harvested between the end of September and the beginning of October, partly by hand. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in steel tanks at 28-30°C with a 25-day maceration period. Maturation lasts 12 months in 25-litre French oak barrels and concrete vats.

Cultus is Latin for "cultivation, care and veneration". The name says it all: this wine honours tradition by reinterpreting it. Where the house's classic Riserva relies on tried and tested structures, Cultus dares to take a longer breath. Forty days of maceration instead of the usual three weeks, Sangiovese supplemented by the historical companions Colorino, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo – all from massalselection of the estate's oldest vines. The vineyards are located at an altitude of 250 to 330 metres, on clayey loam over limestone, organically farmed since 1995 and certified since 2003. The 2019 vintage brought ideal conditions: early budding in the warm spring, balancing rainfall into the summer, then perfect ripeness.

1976 was Paolo De Marchis's first year at Isole e Olena. He was 25; at that time, Chianti Classico was a wine that hardly anyone thought had a future, and the two medieval hamlets – Isole and Olena – were what his father Francesco had bought in 1956: two dilapidated farmsteads in the hills west of Castellina. Paolo stayed. For almost fifty years. What he made of this estate changed the history of Chianti Classico. He was one of the first to vinify Sangiovese separately, one of the first to bring the hillside terraces back into cultivation, and one of the first to take Sangiovese seriously as a single variety. His Cepparello – first bottled in 1980 – became one of Italy's benchmark wines. Emanuele Reolon, the new technical director at Isole e Olena, sums it up as follows: "Paolo brought the Piedmontese style to Tuscany. He treated Sangiovese like Nebbiolo." Back then, it was revolutionary. Today, it is dogma.

Essence Millesimato brut shows the noble signature of Antica Fratta: 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Nero, grown on the moraine hills of Franciacorta. The first fermentation in stainless steel is followed by a long maturation period of at least 36 months on the lees, which adds depth and texture. Pale golden yellow in the glass with a fine, persistent perlage. Ripe apple, white flowers, citrus zest and a hint of toasted almond on the nose. Elegant and precise on the palate, with fresh acidity, creamy fullness and subtle spice. The finish is long, clear and mineral-accentuated. A Franciacorta with substance and fine balance – perfect for special occasions or as an accompaniment to fine seafood cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

An uncompromisingly natural Franciacorta: Essence Nature dispenses entirely with dosage and thus presents itself with clear purity, dry tension and precise fruit. The base consists mainly of Chardonnay, supplemented by Pinot Nero from carefully selected, moraine-rich vineyards. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a continuously fine perlage. Yellow citrus fruit, green apple, white acacia and a delicate hint of brioche are present on the nose. On the palate, this Dosaggio Zero is dry, lively and structured - with lively acidity, mineral freshness and a clear texture. The long finish remains focussed, with a delicate hint of bitter almond. A very puristic Franciacorta, fine and distinctive with just 1.90 g/l residual sugar - one of our absolute favourites! SUPERIORE.DE