wine classics

While the Chianti Classico Ruspoli Annata shows the accessible, fresh side of Lilliano, the Riserva reveals the depth and maturity that lie dormant in the estate's best parcels. Selected only in outstanding years and from the Tenuta's best vineyards, it represents the potential of the Sangiovese grape on the chalky Alberese soils of Castellina in Chianti. The 2020 vintage is considered exceptional in Tuscany: balanced temperatures, moderate rainfall and a long, warm autumn allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly. The cuvée of 95 per cent Sangiovese and five per cent Merlot is fermented in small stainless steel and cement tanks after selective hand-picking before the wine matures for 14 to 15 months in large French oak barrels – a conscious decision in favour of traditional ageing, which gives the Sangiovese structure without dominating it. A further six months of bottle ageing round off the development.

Cellole Gran Selezione impresses with its usual elegance and sophistication. Its masterfully balanced flavour profile of wild berry and blackberry with cassis, blueberry and candied rose is fantastic. On closer inspection, the wine reveals orange peel, rosemary and iron ore. It is a silky and elegant wine with some firm tannin, lots of bright fruit and a hint of crisp acidity. Undoubtedly a great wine with great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

A rosé full of finesse and freshness, in which the signs of tradition and modern harmony come together perfectly. A delicate peach-pink colour with a light mousse in the glass. The bouquet seduces with notes of ripe strawberry, raspberry, exotic flowers and light brioche spice. Juicy, dry and finely structured on the palate: the subtle acidity carries ripe fruit, the yeasty character lends creaminess, while the finish is clear and persistent – with fine minerality and inner tension. A rosé with personality that can be both an aperitif and an accompaniment to food – charming, vertical and stylish in expression. SUPERIORE.DE

A commitment, not a compromise: whilst other Chianti producers have long since turned to international grape varieties, Castellare di Castellina remains true to the authentic formula. No Cabernet, no Merlot – just Sangioveto and Canaiolo, as tradition dictates. The grapes for this Riserva ripen in a natural amphitheatre near Castellina, on limestone and galestro at an altitude of between 350 and 400 metres. Fifteen months in French oak, followed by a further fifteen in the bottle – enough time to develop character without obscuring the wine's origins.

A distinctive interpretation of Chianti Classico: a sparkling ruby red with a pronounced garnet sheen. A very inviting bouquet of cherries and delicate notes of meadow herbs, with a hint of nuts. Medium-bodied on the palate, with wonderfully juicy fruit once again, a cool, mineral style, very finely structured and balanced, with lively vigour; it has a rather long finish and leaves you longing for the next glass. The perfect accompaniment to Italian dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

There is one decision in the cellar that says it all: no dosage. Zero grams of sugar after dégorgement – no equalisation, no softening, no correction. What goes into the bottle must stand on its own. Christian Bellei makes this decision at La Prima Volta consciously and anew every time: Dosaggio Zero is an attitude. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia. Only the Mosto Fiore – the first, purest part of the gentle pressing – is fermented in steel at a controlled temperature. Bottle fermentation takes place in the spring after the harvest according to the metodo classico, followed by at least 36 months on the lees at a constant 12°C. Rémuage, dégorgement – and instead of the liqueur d'expédition, the same wine is returned to the bottle. Nothing else.

An elegant rosé with a playful balance between fine fruit and lively freshness: the Cuvée Imperiale Max Rosé is made from a balanced proportion of Pinot Nero (Saignée method) and Chardonnay, with traditional bottle fermentation and around 24 months of ageing on the lees ensuring a fine texture and expression. In the glass, it is a delicate old rose colour with a bright shimmer and a lively, creamy perlage. The nose opens with redcurrants and raspberries, a hint of red grapefruit and floral nuances such as rose petals. On the palate, the Extra Dry enchants with its racy freshness, compact fruit structure, integrated residual sweetness and delicate flavour. The finish is dry, mineral and long, with a lingering hint of red fruit. Charming, present and stylishly balanced – perfect with salmon, red tuna or as an invigorating aperitif. SUPERIORE.DE

At the dizzying heights of Lamole, one of the highest-altitude appellations in Chianti Classico, the Sangiovese grapes for this exceptional Riserva thrive at altitudes of between 470 and 655 metres. The historic terraces, built from local Macigno del Chianti – that characteristic sandstone which stores the sun's heat during the day and releases it again at night – create a unique microclimate for this certified organic wine. Lareale brings together grapes from two of Lamole's finest vineyards: "Il Prato" and "Le Masse". 95% Sangiovese, complemented by five% Canaiolo Nero, results – following visual berry selection and a two-week maceration – in a Chianti Classico of remarkable elegance and austerity. Over two years' ageing in oak barrels lends the wine additional complexity and structure.

Cartizze is the smallest and most prestigious area within Valdobbiadene – a hilltop covering barely more than a hundred hectares, regarded as the Grand Cru of Prosecco. The aspect and soil composition of this vineyard, centred around the hamlet of Santo Stefano, have always guaranteed a level of excellence unmatched by any other part of the appellation. 100% Glera, gently pressed and fermented as a single variety under controlled temperatures. The wine is fermented in an autoclave – natural fermentation over around fifty days at 12 to 13°C, significantly longer than is usual in the standard Charmat method. This patience gives the wine its depth and complexity. The "Dry" style, sweeter than Extra Brut or Brut, is not a stylistic whim here, but a tradition: this is how Cartizze has always been made.

Amarone Selezione Antonio Castagnedi delivers high quality at a fantastic price every year. If you've ever had the opportunity to stand in old, hand-fired brick drying sheds, three storeys high, filled with hot steam, leaves tied in bundles, stacked up and up and up, you'll know what this wine smells like. It is an extraordinary odour. It smells of steam-soaked red clay bricks, of tobacco leaves, green, yellow, gold, copper-coloured, brown and of earth, spices, dust and oven smoke. It is the smell of a good Amarone.

Federico Giuntini-Antinori runs the area's most traditional estate, whose family tree can be traced back to the 15th century. Rufina is the northernmost district in Chianti, where the vineyards grow around the Villa di Selvapiana and in the vineyards of San Martino a Quona, Pian de' Marroni and Cerbognole. Mainly Sangiovese with small additions of Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Nera are harvested between the end of September and the beginning of October, partly by hand. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in steel tanks at 28-30°C with a 25-day maceration period. Maturation lasts 12 months in 25-litre French oak barrels and concrete vats.

Cultus is Latin for "cultivation, care and veneration". The name says it all: this wine honours tradition by reinterpreting it. Where the house's classic Riserva relies on tried and tested structures, Cultus dares to take a longer breath. Forty days of maceration instead of the usual three weeks, Sangiovese supplemented by the historical companions Colorino, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo – all from massalselection of the estate's oldest vines. The vineyards are located at an altitude of 250 to 330 metres, on clayey loam over limestone, organically farmed since 1995 and certified since 2003. The 2019 vintage brought ideal conditions: early budding in the warm spring, balancing rainfall into the summer, then perfect ripeness.

1976 was Paolo De Marchis's first year at Isole e Olena. He was 25; at that time, Chianti Classico was a wine that hardly anyone believed had a future, and the two medieval hamlets – Isole and Olena – were what his father Francesco had bought in 1956: two dilapidated farmsteads in the hills west of Castellina. Paolo stayed. For almost fifty years. What he made of this estate changed the history of Chianti Classico. He was one of the first to vinify Sangiovese separately, one of the first to bring the hillside terraces back into cultivation, and one of the first to take Sangiovese seriously as a single-varietal wine. His Cepparello – first bottled in 1980 – became one of Italy's benchmark wines. Emanuele Reolon, the new technical director at Isole e Olena, sums it up as follows: "Paolo brought the Piedmontese style to Tuscany. He treated Sangiovese like Nebbiolo." Back then, it was revolutionary. Today, it is dogma.

An uncompromisingly natural Franciacorta: Essence Nature dispenses entirely with dosage and thus presents itself with clear purity, dry tension and precise fruit. The base consists mainly of Chardonnay, supplemented by Pinot Nero from carefully selected, moraine-rich vineyards. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a continuously fine perlage. Yellow citrus fruit, green apple, white acacia and a delicate hint of brioche are present on the nose. On the palate, this Dosaggio Zero is dry, lively and structured - with lively acidity, mineral freshness and a clear texture. The long finish remains focussed, with a delicate hint of bitter almond. A very puristic Franciacorta, fine and distinctive with just 1.90 g/l residual sugar - one of our absolute favourites! SUPERIORE.DE

A Satèn with supple fullness and fine elegance: the 2021 Millesimato edition shows how velvety Chardonnay can be. The grapes come from Chardonnay parcels on moraine hills that harmoniously reflect the cooler climate of Franciacorta. Maturation in the bottle on the lees lasted around 36 months, giving the wine its silky texture and fine complexity.

Bright silver-grey with a persistent, finesse-rich perlage. A wonderful nose of white flowers and light-coloured fruit. Full, broad and creamy elegance on the palate, supported by a delicate interplay of sweetness and acidity. A very expressive and sensual Prosecco Superiore from the top Cartizze vineyard. SUPERIORE.DE

The Ghezzi family has been cultivating the extensive estate on the south-western slope of Montalcino since 1957 – 530 hectares in total, 50 of which are planted with Sangiovese Grosso alone, on clayey-limestone soils with silt and fossil inclusions. A Brunello that combines the power of the south with the elegance of careful clonal selection comes from this sunny, warm location on the Ombrone. 20 to 30 days of maceration, fermentation at 26–28 °C, followed by 24 months in oak barrels and a full year of ageing in the bottle. The 2021 vintage is considered a classic great Annata: late frost in April noticeably reduced the yields, a warm but never overheated summer and two saving August rains brought the grapes to full, slow phenolic ripeness.

For over 60 years, the Produttori del Barbaresco have stood for an uncompromising commitment to quality, supported by over 50 winegrowers who contribute their finest grapes from Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso to the cooperative. The Barbaresco 2022 is a prime example of collective precision and classic style: the Nebbiolo grapes come from selected municipal vineyards, some of which border the crus, on limestone and clay-rich soils. Vinification was carried out using traditional methods: extended maceration, ageing for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a further period of rest in the bottle.

Uccelliera is not only famous for its outstanding Brunello every year, the Rapace, which has now become an icon, also demonstrates the high quality with which the winery has been delighting wine connoisseurs all over the world for decades. Deep dark ruby red in colour, the aroma spectrum is skilfully balanced with a mix of dark red cherries, plums, liquorice, smoke, spices and menthol. The beautifully cherry-like primary fruit is embedded in a warm texture, the silky tannin skilfully takes over on the sidelines and the wine storms into a long, nuanced and delicately mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Finely structured Rosé Millesimato with elegance and depth – the essence of time in every sip. The cuvée of predominantly Chardonnay with a proportion of Pinot Nero reveals its perfection after a long lees contact. Delicate old rose colour in the glass with a subtle perlage. The bouquet combines fine aromas of red berries, particularly redcurrant and raspberry, with delicate brioche and almond notes and a hint of dried rose. On the palate, it impresses with juicy fruit, lively acidity and elegant creaminess. The perlage is subtle, the finish dry, precise and persistent with a slightly salty length. A rosé that is powerful and subtle at the same time – noble, classic, with very good balance. Ideal with salmon, tuna carpaccio, tender veal or as an aperitif. SUPERIORE.DE

Obtained from a small, high-altitude vineyard in the historic San Cristoforo cru site above Neive, this Barbaresco combines terroir depth with contemplative maturity. The clay and limestone-rich soil, the exposed south-east exposure and the late harvest characterise the concentrated style. Three weeks of maceration are followed by a long, patient ageing regime: two years in large oak barrels, a further six months in concrete and then many more years in the bottle – until it opens up with the expression that only time can give.

When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned Brancaia estate near Castellina in Chianti in 1981, nobody could have guessed that this would become one of the defining wineries of modern Tuscany. The very first vintage in 1983 took first place in a blind tasting – the beginning of a success story that daughter Barbara Widmer is continuing today as a qualified Oenologist. The entire winery has been certified organic since 2019, a consistent development of the philosophy that has always applied here: no compromises. The Riserva combines the best Sangiovese lots from both Chianti Classico estates – brancaia in Castellina and Poppi in Radda – supplemented by twenty per cent Merlot. The sites between 230 and 400 metres above sea level bring together different soil structures: Clay in Castellina, sandy loam with a stony skeleton in Radda.