James Suckling

When a winery uses the same label for its Riserva for over sixty years, it is not a lack of imagination – it is an attitude. Castello di Monsanto's Riserva is one of the oldest labels in continuous production in Italy. The label was already there before Chianti Classico was an appellation. It has survived decades and fashions – and it explains what Monsanto stands for: Sangiovese as a conviction. The winery is located in San Donato in Poggio, the westernmost sub-region of Chianti Classico, at an altitude of 280 to 320 metres. Galestro – schistose rock, barren and mineral-rich – is the soil on which the Sangiovese vines from four vineyards take root.

The delicious Salealto consists of Insolia, Zibibbo and Grillo and was matured for approx. 10 months on the fine lees in stainless steel. Deep golden yellow in colour with green reflections. Open nose with hints of beeswax, yellow flowers, acacia, red apple and green pepper. Very refreshing on the palate, low acidity, a fine saline note and wonderful fruit flavours. Herbal spice and expansive fruit with beautiful freshness on the deep finish - be sure to aerate. SUPERIORE.DE

A Pinot Nero from Franz Haas is a textbook expression every year and a benchmark throughout South Tyrol, with bright aromas of blueberries, violets and lavender rising gracefully from the bouquet. This is pure cool climate in the glass. On the palate, it is taut and silky and always beautifully polished and streamlined in a positive sense. This is a beautiful, complex and exceptionally exciting Pinot Nero from a master hand. SUPERIORE.DE

This successful blend of Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc opens with dark concentration and great density. Fornace offers impressive juiciness and rich flavours of red cherries, blackberries, spices and grilled herbs. Its full body, restrained acidity and silky tannins are perfectly balanced, with balsamic hints accompanying this attractive Supertuscan into a supple and long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Arnaldo Caprais Montefalco Rosso Riserva shows how much depth and complexity can be achieved with this combination of local varieties. The wine is intense and particularly concentrated thanks to ripe fruit and careful oak ageing. You can feel the power of the Sagrantino tannins, but this power is well measured and under control. With its dark and crunchy fruit, this is a wine that initially makes you bite your teeth out, but which becomes increasingly elegant as it matures in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Rossofonte is no ordinary Rosso. It is a rigorous selection from a single vineyard, as close to Brunello as the appellation allows. Since the first vintage (2014), it has shown what Sangiovese can achieve in Castelnuovo dell'Abate if it is given time and attention. Hand-picked grapes, extended ageing in Slavonian oak barrels. Wild cherry, ripe berries, balsamic notes of tobacco, cedar wood, mint and lavender on the nose. On the palate, sweetness and acidity alternate in an elegant interplay, fine, powdery tannins carry the final with nuances of star anise and pink pepper. A convincing and deep Rosso with Brunello ambitions. SUPERIORE.DE

Between the hills of Gaiole and Radda in Chianti, at an altitude of 460 to 525 metres, lies one of the most extraordinary wine estates in Tuscany. Since 1982, Marco Pallanti and Lorenza Sebasti have shaped the fortunes of Castello di Ama – a winemaking couple who have helped Chianti Classico achieve worldwide recognition. "Ama" was created in 2010 with the introduction of the Gran Selezione as an independent line and represents the essence of the estate's younger Sangiovese clones. Made from 96% Sangiovese and 4% Merlot, the wine comes from densely planted vineyards on chalky, clayey soils. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts and matured for twelve months in second-use barriques.

A white pioneer in Tuscany: in 1987, Avignonesi was the first winery in the region to create a barrique-aged white wine and named it after the stone lion in front of the palazzo in Montepulciano – symbolising wisdom and strength. Today, Virginie Saverys continues this tradition with biodynamic precision and vinifies the Chardonnay from Cortona using the pied-de-cuve method: 81% is matured in French barriques, 19% in cement barrels, in each case for at least five months on the fine lees.

Francesca Moretti grew up with Bellavista – her father Vittorio's Franciacorta winery, one of Italy's reference addresses for sparkling wine. What she wanted to develop in Suvereto was the opposite: great red wines in the style of Bordeaux, from a terroir that hardly anyone knew. The Potenti is her most personal commitment to this conviction – named after the vineyard in Riotorto from which the grapes come. The soils are clayey, sandy and calcareous, interspersed with coarse skeleton – a foundation that forces the Cabernet Sauvignon to root deeply and bear concentrated fruit. The vineyard lies between the foothills of the Colline Metallifere and the Tyrrhenian coast, in a climate that combines sea breezes with long, sunny autumns. After the harvest in October, the wine ferments in large oak conical barrels and matures for 18 months in French barriques – according to the best Bordelese tradition.

This is where Ampeleia's true masterclass is revealed: the Cabernet Franc from the single vineyard "Vigna dell'Asina" is the centrepiece of the "Monovarietali" project and shows why this grape variety has become the flagship of the winery. What began as a vision in 2003 has developed into one of the most precise expressions of the Tuscan terroir. The vineyard lies at an altitude of 500 metres and combines ideal conditions: Clay-rich soils interspersed with characteristic Galestro limestone rocks and Palombini formations create a unique microclimate. Contrary to the expectation that clay soils produce heavy wines, wines of surprising elegance and purity are produced here – a phenomenon that can only be observed in Roccatederighi. Vinification follows Ampeleia's purist approach: 20% of the grapes undergo carbonic maceration as whole bunches, the rest are destemmed. After two weeks of maceration, the wine matures for nine months in cement tanks – for nine months in cement tanks without the use of wood in order to preserve the varietal characteristics unadulterated.

In 1090, while Leif Erikson was discovering America and the first universities in Europe were being established, two friends of Abbot Rolando paid "two capons, three loaves of bread and six silver denarii from Lucca" for the annual lease of a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. Nine hundred (Novecento) years later, in 1990, this wine was created as a reminiscence of the incredible journey through the centuries. The grapes thrive between 300 and 420 metres above sea level on stony soils of marl, limestone and galestro. The vines, which are on average 15 years old and cultivated organically as in the early days of this domain, undergo a 14-day spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement vats before maturing for 18 months in large, unroasted French Allier oak barrels.

It was Luigi Veronelli, the Italian wine revolutionary of the 60s and 70s, who convinced Francesco Giuntini that exceptional single vineyards deserve their own voice. Of all the old Poderi from the Mezzadria period, Bucerchiale has always been the best – a south-west facing amphitheatre in the cooler heights of Rufina, where Tuscany approaches the last foothills of the Apennines. Francesco took the plunge in 1979. While the law still stipulated Trebbiano in every Chianti and the wine world favoured quantity, he produced defiant resistance from pure Sangiovese. A 100 per cent Sangiovese from a single vineyard – a revolutionary act at the time that marked the beginning of the Tuscan Renaissance. In 2022, Vigneto Bucerchiale celebrates its 43rd year and embodies a perfect vision. Spontaneous fermentation in steel tanks at 30-32°C with 30 days of maceration allows every nuance of the terroir to unfold before the wine matures 50 per cent in French oak barrels of 25 hl and 50 per cent in barriques – only 15 per cent of which is new.

The organically certified Sangiovese grapes for this Chianti Classico are grown in the legendary Conca d'Oro south of Panzano, that amphitheatrical Golden Valley with its unique microclimate of warm days and cool nights. Giovanni Manetti, president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico, vinifies exclusively hand-picked grapes in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts on the chalky Galestro soils of his 170-hectare Tenuta. After three weeks of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in French oak barrels of various sizes.

A wine of great personality that embodies the entire philosophy of Poggio Bonelli. Poggiassai is the Supertuscan of the house – a modern interpretation of Tuscan winemaking that masterfully combines tradition and innovation. It demonstrates the expertise of a winery that has been honoured over the centuries by the most important noble families in Siena. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 250 metres in the hills around Castelnuovo Berardenga with a perfect south-west exposure. The carefully hand-picked grapes thrive in ideal conditions on these special soils, where sandy subsoils ensure optimum drainage. Strict selection limits the yield to just 50 centners per hectare - a commitment to uncompromising quality.

Mattia Vezzola's top wine demonstrates the heights that the indigenous Groppello grape variety can reach. Sweet dark cherries, herbs, liquorice and tar are just some of the nuances that emerge from this plush, deep red wine. Maim impresses with its extraordinary intensity and richness - from the first sip to the end of the bottle. And it is not only because of its exceptionally fine texture and almost endless finish that it is without question a jewel of a wine and a flagship of the appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

107 hectares. That is all. In the entire Denominazione Valdobbiadene, which extends over 15 municipalities and thousands of hectares of steep slopes, there is exactly one hill, which has been demarcated with its own regulations since 1969 – a golden pentagon, as the locals call it, whose plots measure barely two tenths of a hectare on average. Cartizze is the grand cru of the Veneto. Andreola sources his grapes from the "Cartizze Alto" sub-area – the limestone-rich ridge of the hill, where marl and sandstone alternate, the soils are shallow and rich in minerals and the perfect southern exposure balances out the "Alta Collina" climate. The temperatures remain mild and stable – cooler than at the bottom of the valley, warmer than the exposed steep slopes around it. It is precisely this balance that produces a Glera of particular ripeness and aromatic completeness. The grapes come from long-standing contract suppliers who have been supplying Andreola for generations – because Cartizze is not a vineyard that you buy. You cultivate a fraction of it, if you are lucky.

Don Luigi Riserva is the distinctive flagship of Di Majo Norante – named after the patriarch of the winery and an expression of deep respect for origin, tradition and passion. Only the ripest Montepulciano grapes are selected from the Contrada Camarda near Ramitello, around 100 - 150 metres above sea level on soils rich in limestone and clay. The wine is produced after a long maceration period and then matures for 12–18 months in French barriques, followed by several months of rest in the bottle – a process that produces both concentration and this impressive harmony.

A declaration of love for Tuscany is how the Ferragamos describe their most pure expression. The Vigna Polissena lies on slate soils with perfect drainage, a terroir made for Sangiovese. James Suckling once compared the wines produced here to the best Brunellos. The must rests on the skins for twenty-two days before being transferred to Allier barriques – a third of which are new. For eighteen months, the wood moulds the structure without masking the character. A further six months in steel give the wine time to find its feet.

Deep dark, sparkling ruby red colour. An opulent dark red fruit basket on the nose, intense and full. From the very first sip, a depth that is unrivalled in this price range. The heights to which this wine is capable of carrying the connoisseur are nothing short of spectacular. At the same time, it always convinces with an indescribable balance. Maharis is never fat or jammy, but its potpourri of dark fruits, spices, matured leather and a subtle smoky note is balanced at all times with an almost surprising freshness and liveliness. The final is long, velvety and richly textured. Magnificent! SUPERIORE.DE

Oudeis – nobody. When the cunning Odysseus outwitted the Cyclops Polyphemus, he gave it this name. Enrico Serafino's Alta Langa bears this name out of humility: no one is responsible for the complexity of this wine – only the terroir. A philosophical bow to the high altitudes of the Alta Langa, the Piedmontese plateau that Enrico Serafino has pioneered the Metodo Classico since 1991. The grapes – 85% Pinot Nero, 15% Chardonnay – come from vineyards between 300 and 550 metres above sea level in the municipalities of Mango, Trezza Tinella, Loazzolo, San Giorgio and Bubbio. After manual harvesting and gentle whole-cluster pressing, the must ferments in stainless steel, followed by six months of bâtonnage. The second fermentation and ageing on the lees takes place over 36 months in the historic underground cellars – protected from light, temperature-controlled, timeless.

Pale pink with orange reflections. Elegant, fine aroma of flowers and roses, small red berries and herbs and the typical bread and yeast flavour. Very supple on the palate, fresh and forward, the acidity is agile and the mousse is soft and fine. A mouthful of red berries and a very broad range of herb and spice flavours are wonderfully enveloped by a fresh acidity that finishes this very long wine with a fruity, tart and salty note. SUPERIORE.DE

The Pecorari family's passion for single-varietal wines is best represented by the Pinot Grigio Gris, which is matured for 11 months on the fine lees with bâtonnage. This Pinot Grigio fermented in oak offers an exciting and complex bouquet of white peach, citrus, flint, crushed oyster shells, white rose petals and notes of acacia honey. The well-proportioned acidity, the fresh flavour and the wonderful depth and tension make it easy to see that the Pinot Grigio at Lis Neris occupies an absolutely special position every year. SUPERIORE.DE"Firm, somewhat nutty, planty to herbaceous and hints of mushroomy aromas of yellow fruit with slightly smoky and vanilla wood notes and nuances reminiscent of mussel shells. Polished, firm fruit with melting and some light wood notes, fine acidity, has a grip of ripe tannin, good substance and persistence, certain depth, salty minerality, tobacco, butter and hints of crab meat in the background, very good, animating finish with bite." Wein-Plus"Bright straw yellow colour. Fine reduction on the nose, subtle flint, precious wood and stone fruit. Full-bodied and radiant on the palate, with great juiciness and salinity, powerful, savoury, lingers for a long time, great Pinot Grigio!" Falstaff"It is fresh and mineral with notes of white peaches, flowers and stones. Crisp and juicy with a medium body and a polished, mineral backbone. Tasty finish." James Suckling"The 2021 Pinot Grigio Gris tantalises the senses with an opulent blend of vanilla pods, sweet spices and whole butter complementing ripe apples and pears. It is pleasantly round and silky in flavour, with a core of juicy acidity that balances it out and ripe fruit that plays around it. The balance on the inside is fantastic. The 2021 rejuvenates with a saline mineral note and sour citrus, leaving a youthful inner tension. The oak will need to be integrated a little over the coming years, but I expect that with a little patience an absolutely stunning interpretation will develop." Vinous