James Suckling

Pithos – the ancient Greek word for the terracotta vessels in which wine and oil were stored in antiquity. When Giusto Occhipinti travelled to Georgia in 1999 and discovered the local qvevri tradition, he ordered the first amphorae in 2000. COS thus became one of the first pioneers of amphora vinification in the whole of Italy. Grecanico – the grape variety of the Greeks, brought to Sicily more than 2,500 years ago – grows on red limestone gravel soils near Vittoria, at 250 metres, cultivated biodynamically. Spontaneous fermentation with the skins inLiters, six to seven months, natural yeasts, no added sulphur.

Anyone who underestimates Pinot Bianco simply hasn't drunk a good one. The variety loves windy locations, poor marl soils and cool nights – all characteristics that the Collio Goriziano offers in abundance. Schiopetto cultivates it on the Ponca slopes of Capriva, where small, compact grapes ripen with golden-coloured berries that need no support in the cellar. A special feature of the vinification process: the wine is fermented with Pied de Cuve – a proprietary yeast from our own vineyards. This keeps the fermentation authentic and the flavour close to the origin. Steel, eight months on the fine lees, no intervention.

Marc de Grazia made Etna history when he rediscovered the forgotten volcanic slopes over two decades ago. His Etna Rosso – the estate's 'calling card' – now blends grapes from various vineyards at altitudes between 600 and 900 metres, where Nerello Mascalese grows on ancient volcanic soils. The vines are situated on the cool northern slopes of Mount Etna, surrounded by black pumice and lava rock – a terroir that lends every sip its unmistakable mineral character.

Pergolaia consists mainly of Sangiovese with smaller proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The wine opens with a medium-bodied attack and a bright bouquet characterised by notes of cherry, wild plum, ploughed earth and pressed blue flowers. This very Mediterranean-style red with a strong personality envelops the palate with a delicate, silky intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

Malvasia Istriana is not Malvasia. At least not what most people know by that name. While other varieties of this ancient Greek grape family are often lush and sweetly aromatic, the Istrian variety shows a completely different face: richer, more complex, more mineral and capable of true greatness in Collio Goriziano – and capable of its true greatness in the Collio Goriziano. Schiopetto has been vinifying it as a single variety since 1974: hand-picked at the beginning of September, fermented in steel at 16 degrees for ten to twelve days, matured on the fine lees for nine months. The result needs no explanation, just a large glass.

Schiopetto has been producing Pinot Grigio since 1968 – long before it became (unfortunately, in some other regions) Italy's best-selling mass-market white wine – and the Rotolo family has never forgotten what it truly excels at: depth, juiciness and mineral vigour. On the Ponca hills of Capriva del Friuli, in marly soils of Eocene origin, the variety finds a terroir that leaves no room for mediocrity. Gentle pressing, brief sulphur-free decanting, fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature – followed by eight months' ageing on the lees. No oak, no detours, everything focused on the Ponca.

Crognolo is a wonderfully balanced wine that offers the tangy freshness and acidity of Sangiovese, which is balanced and softened by the small proportion of Merlot. The wine smells of cherry, blackberry and plum. Its primary intensity is bright and cheerful. The juicy finish shows a nice density, extraction and well-integrated tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

When Giuseppe Russo talks about his rosato, his eyes light up with the same intensity as the powder-pink glow that settles over the Contrada San Lorenzo in the early days of October. Here, where eighty-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted in volcanic soil at an altitude of 700 metres, one of Italy's most elegant rosés is created – born from the perfect balance between timing and technique. The magic begins with the early manual harvest, when the grapes have that crystalline freshness that only the cool Etna nights can give. Giuseppe uses a traditional vertical press in which the whole grapes are gently pressed for five hours – long enough to extract the delicate colour, short enough to preserve the mineral elegance. No maceration on the skins, no artificial intervention: just the natural connection between grape and volcanic terroir. After spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, the wine matures for six months in stainless steel, where it develops its characteristic finesse.

The cellar at Tenuta Meraviglia is situated in a former quarry. This is not a metaphor, but an architectural choice: the architectural practice Studio Tori has created a winery here that is carved into the rock, thereby restoring the landscape rather than detracting from it. Form follows function follows conviction. This philosophy is carried through into the vineyard: 34 hectares in Bolgheri, planted almost exclusively with Cabernet Franc, on volcanic soils.

Pinot Bianco reveals its aristocratic side at the high altitude of Zuc di Volpe. The privileged single vineyard site near Togliano offers ideal conditions for this elegant grape variety: cool nights, calcareous soils and excellent aeration, which enables slow, balanced ripening. Maturation in stainless steel tanks with an extended maturation period on the fine lees preserves the clear fruit and at the same time lends depth and structure. The nose reveals aromas of white peach, pear and a hint of camomile, underpinned by a fine nutty note. Finely crafted and precise on the palate, with a creamy texture, firm minerality and a long, balanced finish.

In 1886, Carlo Campagnola founded his winery in the Marano Valley, in the heart of Valpolicella Classico. In 1907, he won the first gold medal for the best Recioto at the Verona Wine Fair – since then, the family, now in its fifth generation, has continued what began as a small farm. The vineyards for this Amarone are located on calcareous slopes between 200 and 350 metres above sea level, where Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella are harvested by hand at the end of September. The traditional appassimento drying process takes around 100 days until the grapes have lost 35–40% of their weight. Gentle pressing in December, 30 days of maceration, then ageing: 60% matures for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, 40% for 18 months in new Allier oak barriques.

Light, dense ruby colour. A cool Cabernet profile with blue fruit on the nose: Blackberry, blueberry, blackcurrant, plus cedar wood, graphite, laurel and a hint of juniper. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, yet polished: juicy, dark fruit, very fine-grained, ripe tannins and a lively acidity that benefits from the constant coastal wind and the day/night temperature gradient. The spice remains elegantly in the background, the wood is perfectly integrated and supports the texture without masking the freshness. Long, straightforward finish with a salty, mineral flavour. The 2023 shows the sunny side of the Tuscan coast with balance instead of vigour: a precise, modern Maremma Cabernet – accessible in its youth, with reserves for several years. Ideal with grilled beef, lamb chops, savoury mushroom dishes or mature pecorino. SUPERIORE.DE

The blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah combines the aristocratic depth of Cabernet with the seductive flavour of Syrah - both grape varieties that find Mediterranean ripeness in the chalky, sun-drenched soils around Noto. Cultivated organically, this wine conveys the sunshine of Sicily with a down-to-earth character and structure. The wine was originally only intended for private occasions – a heartfelt project that today celebrates with its name the connection to people and moments that are more than mere consumption. The grapes for it (label: "only the best grapes") come from strictly selected plots around Noto, where chalky soils, salt winds and intense sunlight characterise the aroma and structure.

Named after the "Seggio" stream, the largest watercourse in the municipality of Castagneto Carducci, this elegant Bordeaux blend epitomises the accessibility and finesse of Bolgheri DOC. The historic watercourse rises in the Etruscan Colline Metallifere near Sassetta and flows through the entire Bolgheri area, its alluvial deposits enriching the characteristic clay soils with valuable pebbles. This harmonious cuvée comes from the privileged vineyards of Le Sondraie and Via Bolgherese. The vines, which are around 19 years old, thrive on well-drained, skeleton-rich soils with a clay layer and a high magnesium and iron content – ideal conditions for the international grape variety assemblage.

Pinzon. A vineyard site that has long been regarded by connoisseurs as synonymous with top-quality South Tyrolean Pinot Noir. This small wine-growing village on the eastern side of the Adige Valley, first mentioned in records in 1230, lies amidst the vineyards that, along the Pinot Noir Trail, are counted amongst Italy’s finest Pinot Noir terroirs. Here, at an altitude of around 550 metres in the municipality of Montan, Peter Zemmer cultivates his vines on porphyry soils with deposits of dolomite carbonate rock – —a geological combination that lends the wine its characteristic minerality. The microclimate of the site is shaped by its elevation above the Adige floodplain and its north-westerly aspect, which grants the vineyards long hours of evening sunshine. The ‘Ora’, that famous valley wind which rises from Lake Garda through the Adige Valley, cools the vines in the afternoon and regulates humidity – ideal conditions for this demanding Burgundian variety.

One name is making a name for itself: Vallenuova, previously the estate's entry-level Chianti, will become a Riserva with the 2023 vintage. The vineyard, which surrounds the estate like a natural amphitheatre, bears the name of the locality – still today Tolaini's official address in Castelnuovo Berardenga. What is changing is the ageing period: instead of ten months, the Riserva now matures for considerably longer in a trio of Tuscan, Slavonian and Austrian oak before spending a further few months in the bottle. The base is now also clearly defined: 100% Sangiovese from silty-clay soils with limestone and stones. Double selection – by hand in the vineyard, visually in the cellar – 20 days' maceration, temperature-controlled fermentation.

A Pinot Grigio with ambition and from one of the estate's best vineyards. The wine comes from the eponymous Zuc di Volpe hill in Togliano, whose clay and limestone soils, combined with consistent manual harvesting and low yields, provide the basis for this cru-worthy Pinot Grigio. Matured in stainless steel with extended maturation on the fine lees, the wine is light golden yellow in colour with a slightly coppery sheen in the glass – a subtle hint of the natural pigmentation of the grape variety. Yellow pear, some ripe quince, white almonds and a hint of hay flower on the nose. Surprisingly structured on the palate, with mineral tension, good depth and a fine salty vein. A delicate phenolic note on the finish gives the wine grip and length.

Pietrabianca offers a contrast between richness and freshness and seduces with a blend of white flowers, almond paste, wet stone and crushed red pears. Silky and supple, it caresses the palate with an elegant wave of ripe peach and nectarine. Lingers long, leaving a mineral and acidic tension as notes of candied lime fade. Not only is it stunning today, but it has a bright future. SUPERIORE.DE

Praesulis Sauvignon Blanc unfolds in the glass with hints of aromatic herbs and lemon zest, accompanied by gooseberries, grapefruit and elderberries. Soothingly smooth and with a pleasant inner sweetness, it blends candied lemon with tart melon and lively acidity to create a robust yet juicy style on the palate. It finishes with vibrant tension and good length, leaving behind concentrated citrus fruit and lovely floral notes. Wonderfully elegant and well-balanced. SUPERIORE.DE

Two names define this Riserva: Il Corno and Poggio Selvale. It is from these two premier vineyards, situated between 350 and 450 metres above sea level, that the Sangiovese grapes come from which Castello di Radda crafts its classic Riserva style. The clay-limestone soils, with their high proportion of galestro and alberese – the region's characteristic calcareous shale – lend the wine mineral depth and structural complexity. In this coolest part of the Chianti Classico region, where dense forests surround the vineyards and the temperature fluctuations between day and night are particularly pronounced, the Sangiovese reveals its most elegant side. After hand-harvesting, the grapes are destemmed and fermented in 50-hectolitre stainless-steel tanks. Maceration on the skins lasts three to four weeks – a luxury afforded only by fully ripe grapes from prime vineyards. Malolactic fermentation takes place in wood before the wine begins its 20-month ageing process: in second- and third-use French tonneaux and in 20-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels. A nine-month period of bottle ageing completes the wine's development.

Probably the most precise expression of Sauvignon Bianco, which Volpe Pasini vinifies year after year, comes from the privileged single vineyard Zuc di Volpe. At high altitude near Togliano, on marl and calcareous flysch soils, the grape variety achieves a rare balance of aromatic richness, vibrant freshness and elegant texture. 2023 was a challenging but ultimately harmonious vintage: a cool spring and changeable weather until July demanded a great deal of sensitivity, but the stable, mild late summer produced concentrated, expressive grapes with a perfect acid structure. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks and matures for several months on the fine lees, which gives it additional depth and balance.

Friuli is white wine country. We know that. What is easy to forget: Schiopetto has also been making red wines since 1968 – and with a consistency that excludes any chance. Rivarossa is the name of a cadastral parcel on the company's own vineyards, whose clayey, loamy soil is fundamentally different from the Ponca hills of the whites. Different soil, different logic, different wine. 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – separate vinification of both varieties, fermentation in wooden barrels for ten to fifteen days at 25 degrees, followed by fourteen months of ageing in barriques and Liters oak barrels.

The year is 1773 and a storm drives the English merchant ship "Elizabeth" into the harbour of Marsala. John Woodhouse, a merchant from Liverpool, seeks shelter – and finds a wine in an osteria that won't let him go. To stabilise it for the long journey home, he fortifies it with Acquavite. A makeshift solution that establishes the history of an entire wine. Pellegrino, the centrepiece of the Marsala tradition since 1880, has dedicated its own cuvée to this far-sighted Englishman. "Old John" – respect in two words. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, harvested in the hinterland between Marsala and Mazara del Vallo, are fortified with neutral alcohol after fermentation has stopped and topped with mosto cotto – grape must – flavoured and slightly sweetened. Then comes the time: at least 48 months in large oak barrels and a further six months in barriques. The 1998 is a true Riserva – not a vintage for the impatient.

1968 – three years before Sassicaia changed the world – san Felice created Vigorello: the first Chianti Classico wine produced without the white grape varieties that were mandatory at the time, made exclusively from red varieties. A quiet revolution that instilled in the estate a sense of what was possible, which continues to shape its identity to this day. An expression of this identity is the Vitiarium, a research project spanning over twenty years dedicated to the rediscovery and preservation of indigenous Tuscan grape varieties. One of these is the Pugnitello: its name means ‘little fist’, referring to the compact, fist-shaped bunches. Almost extinct, preserved by San Felice, it is now an integral part of the Borgo. Sangiovese and Pugnitello, grown on medium-heavy calcareous-marly soils near the medieval Borgo, are vinified separately in stainless steel and only come together during ageing: twelve months in large Slavonian oak barrels.