James Suckling | 95–100 Points

Vigna San Francesco Cabernet Sauvignon is in a class of its own amongst Sicilian red wines – not a Mediterranean oddity, but an expressive, distinguished example of its grape variety, grown at an altitude of 570 metres in the cool vineyards of the Tenuta Regaleali estate in the heart of Sicily. The San Francesco plot, planted with Cabernet since 1985, rests on calcareous clay soils, whose structure and drainage lend the wine precision, depth and vigour.

Mathias is one of the top wines. Together with the Pinot Nero Riserva Matan and the Cortazo red wine cuvée, it forms the top tier of Pfitscher’s quality pyramid. A white wine that offers the most complete picture of the vineyard of the same name and the family’s philosophy. The soils on which it grows are unique: grey porphyry and sandy-limestone rock dust. Two geological worlds in a single vineyard: the volcanic depth of the porphyry and the mineral-driven precision of the Alpine limestone. As James Suckling once put it, this captures the essence: "Wild herbs, gentian root, flint, white currant – with a literally breathtaking mineral freshness on final." A Sauvignon that doesn’t scream of fruit, but speaks of its terroir.

Pliocene clays retain moisture. In a dry, hot year like 2020, this is not merely an agricultural detail, but a survival strategy. The clay soils of Poggio Landi, situated 300 to 500 metres above Torrenieri, provided a natural buffer against the summer drought that put large parts of Montalcino under strain that year. The organically farmed vines, with their deeper, more active root systems, played their part. The result is a Brunello full of concentration and character. Herbal and spicy notes on the nose – wild herbs, fennel and oregano – followed by sweet cherry and tamarind. Two weeks of spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels, and 6 months in bottle.

Le Baròncole – the little manors. The name refers to the feudal division of this land in the Middle Ages, to landowners who were small enough to be forgotten, but large enough to leave their mark on the landscape. Today, Le Baròncole is the name of the finest Chianti Classico from San Giusto a Rentennano – a Riserva produced only in years when the terroir warrants it. The estate overlooks the upper Arbia Valley at an altitude of 270 metres. The soils are diverse – sand, clay, limestone and mineral-rich deposits – and characterised by a microclimate that experiences marked temperature fluctuations between day and night. In such locations, Sangiovese ripens differently to elsewhere: more slowly, with greater tension, and with a freshness not found in the Maremma or the lower Chianti region. 97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo, hand-harvested in September when the Martini di Cigalas grapes are at their best. Aged for 16 to 20 months in large oak casks and French barriques, depending on the vintage, followed by a further six months' bottle ageing.

In 1980, a quiet revolution began in the granite hills of Gallura. What started as a bold vision of two young brothers was to change the world of Sardinian wine forever: the world's first Vermentino to undergo partial ageing in French barriques. Fabrizio and Mario Ragnedda dared to do the unthinkable – they believed that their beloved Vermentino could stand shoulder to shoulder with the great international white wines. The name Capichera itself speaks of ancient grandeur: Caput erat – "it was the capital" – the Latin reminder of the historical significance of these lands belonging to the Ragnedda family. Here, where granite soils shape Sardinian history and sea breezes caress the vines, the flagship white wine of a winery that has made history has been produced for over four decades. The Vermentino ferments for four weeks in cool stainless steel tanks before being transferred to new and used barriques.

Since the 2018 vintage, a small amount of Merlot has been vinified separately at Rampolla, named after the mother Donna Liù. The unfiltered wine was matured for 12 months in terracotta amphorae and fermented to almost 0 g/l residual sugar. Very elegant, fresh nose of sour cherry, laurel and cassis. Fresh on the palate and without the sometimes exuberant opulence of some other Tuscan Merlots, with a precise cherry fruit and salty-minty component. A finely chiselled Merlot that is hard to beat in terms of freshness, clarity and personality. It bridges the gap wonderfully between the Chianti Classico and the two flagships of the house, Sammarco and d'Alceo. Needs a few more years in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

In September 1911, lava from an eruption that formed the north-eastern crater of Mount Etna covered part of the old vineyards at Dafara Galluzzo. When Giuseppe Benanti founded his winery in 1988, the vineyards were located in Castiglione di Sicilia and Milo. Rovittello is part of Castiglione, and it is there that Dafara Galluzzo lies at an altitude of 750 metres on the northern slope of Mount Etna. The Nerello Mascalese vines grow as low bushes on small terraces, supported by dry stone walls made of lava rock, in sandy, mineral-rich volcanic soil, in a humid climate with significant temperature variations. Amongst the predominantly young vines are a few that are over a hundred years old and ungrafted. The grapes are harvested by hand at the end of October. The destemmed berries remain on the mash in stainless steel for around 21 days, with fermentation carried out by yeast from the vineyard itself. The wine is then aged for twelve months in used French tonneaux, followed by ageing in stainless steel tanks, and around ten months of bottle ageing.

One of the really great Chardonnays from South Tyrol: bright, intense light golden yellow in colour. In the powerful yet harmonious Chardonnay Baron Salvadori, the aromas of fine vanilla cream and ripe fruit change in quick succession. Fresh and round on the palate, the accentuated fruit is accompanied by balanced acidity, a fine salty vein and well-integrated wood spice. SUPERIORE.DE

This immensely popular and elegant classic Amarone from Zenato hails from Sant'Ambrogio, the heart of the Valpolicella Classico region, where the family has been based since 1960. Corvina makes up eighty per cent of the blend, complemented by Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina – all grown on the slopes of the Costalunga vineyard. Following the hand-harvest in October, the appassimento process begins: the grapes rest in shallow crates for four months, losing water whilst concentrating their sugar and aromas. Pressing does not take place until January, followed by slow fermentation in contact with the skins. The wine then matures for thirty-six months in large Slavonian oak barrels before being released following further bottle ageing.

In 2014, Tenuta Perano near Gaiole became the first Frescobaldi estate in Chianti Classico – the appellation's historic heartland, where the family had not previously owned an estate of its own. Rialzi takes its name from the three natural terraces on which it grows, at an altitude of 500 metres and above, in south-west-facing Alberese soils, nestled within a natural amphitheatre of steep slopes. Harvested by hand and selected again in the cellar, the Sangiovese ferments in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks with skin contact and gentle pumping over to ensure gentle extraction. This is followed by 24 months in barriques, before a further period in the bottle completes the 36-month ageing process, thereby significantly exceeding the minimum ageing period of 30 months required for the Gran Selezione.

The A in the name of Boggina stands for the natural wine aged for around 6 months in 400-600 Liters terracotta amphorae, which is bottled in a run of just 5,000 bottles without the addition of sulphites. Light, bright garnet red in colour. The bouquet is ethereal, very delicate and nuanced, with a very precise interpretation of the fragrance of the Sangiovese grape. Medium-bodied on the palate, with an exceptionally beautiful structure and authentic Sangiovese fruit with a salty vein. The finish is highly drinkable, with silky tannins and beguiling length. A masterpiece of beauty and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

It was a dream that the engineer Gastone Bazzocchi planted in the Tuscan soil in 1947 – five hectares of Sangiovese on a hill he called Bòggina. Luca Sanjust, his grandson and a former painter, reflects today on Paul Klee's "Angelus Novus" and Walter Benjamin's interpretation of this angel, who "turns his gaze towards the past" whilst "a storm blows from paradise". Such is Bòggina: a wine with its eyes on the past, yet relentlessly propelled towards the future. Since 2011, Petrolo has been experimenting with the vinification of a special batch made from the finest grapes of this historic vineyard in terracotta amphorae from Impruneta – the pottery craft that has shaped Tuscan culture since the time of the Etruscans. Fermentation takes place over two weeks in 300- andLiters using indigenous yeasts, before the vessels are hermetically sealed. For eight months, the wine macerates on the skins, protected by natural skin contact without the addition of sulphites.

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a real added value.

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited the estate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona – a vote of confidence that is renewed every year. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia continue the legacy, 55 hectares in the privileged area of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the shadow of the Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the most brilliant of the last decade: bright September days and cool nights gave the Sangiovese that rare balance of aromatic precision and tannic finesse. 24 months in large Slavonian barrels, then further rest in the bottle.

"Pio di lei", for the ladies. A name that pays homage to the strong women of the Pio Cesare family. When Pio Boffa planted the first Chardonnay vines in 1981, it was a revolutionary act in the Langhe. Here, in the realm of Nebbiolo, where Barolo and Barbaresco have reigned supreme for centuries, growing a French white wine bordered on heresy. But Pio had a vision: to create a white wine that possessed the body, complexity and ageing potential of the great reds. The first vintage was released in 1985. Today, almost four decades later, his daughter Federica is carrying on the legacy and proving that the women of this family are not merely the namesakes, but the architects.

In 2007, Marco de Grazia discovered a tiny plot in Moganazzi – one of the two vineyards which, together with Guardiola, have always been regarded as the finest terroirs in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia. He bought it without hesitation. The problem: just three barriques of wine. Too little for the market. Too good not to be made. De Grazia decided to donate all the bottles to a charity project run by the Meyer Children's Hospital in Florence. He had his daughter Elena design the labels. The first ones were created when she was two years old. For ten years, Moganazzi was a gift to sick children. Then, in 2017, de Grazia managed to buy a neighbouring plot and lease another one. For the first time, Moganazzi appeared as an official Terre Nere cru.

Feudo di Mezzo is perhaps the largest Contrada in the entire Etna DOC – characterised by a consistent style, yet with marked differences in quality from plot to plot. Marco de Grazia compares it to the Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy: a vast territory capable of producing great wine in its finest parts, and merely good wine in its weaker ones. The best plot in Feudo di Mezzo – de Grazia's plot – is called: Il Quadro delle Rose. The Rose Plot. Castiglione di Sicilia, 650 metres, north-facing. 1.5 hectares, vines aged between 40 and 80 years on deep, ash-rich volcanic soils. 5,500 bottles per vintage. Il Quadro delle Rose is always the first vineyard to be harvested – and de Grazia explains why this shapes its character: the earlier harvest yields the most open, generous and soft wines of the entire estate.

In 1991, Michele Satta planted his first vines in Castagneto Carducci. No master plan, no blueprint from outside. Just the conviction that this soil, this sea air, this Tuscan stubbornness could achieve more than what Bolgheri already was at the time. The result was Piastraia. Bottled since 1994, a Bolgheri Superiore since 2012 – and in 2023: the thirtieth vintage. Thirty vintages of observation, adjustment, refinement and a constant pursuit of excellence. The blend – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc – ferments varietal-separately in conical concrete vats, using only wild yeasts. No intervention, no shortcuts. 18 to 24 months in French barriques, a fifth of which are new – providing a subtle framework, without dominance.

Piancornello's Brunello di Montalcino 2019 is initially elegantly restrained with rosy flowers, nuances of cherry and worn leather, contrasted by a hint of sour citrus fruit. It then impresses on the palate with a silky texture and cool radiance, while the lively acidity brings out ripe red berries and minerals. The finish is structured, very savoury with notes of plum and liquorice that linger incredibly long under a hint of violet-tinged flowers. A beautiful, taut and firm Brunello from an equally beautiful vintage. SUPERIORE.DE