James Suckling | 95–100 Points

A very special wine made from overripe and strictly selected Aglianico grapes that thrive in Mastroberardino's south-facing vineyards. The Taurasi is aged for two years in oak barrels and one year in the bottle. A wine with a fascinating personality, power and extremely high Storage potential.

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepesolo, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do that. The blend of indigenous grape varieties, with Sangiovese and Montepulciano clearly in the foreground, unmistakably expresses its terroir and is understood worldwide in the process. SUPERIORE.DE

In the gentle hills above Trento, where the Dolomites majestically watch over the Adige Valley, lies a vineyard called Fontanasanta, the "Holy Spring". Here, at an altitude of 400 metres and on calcareous clay soils, Elisabetta Foradori preserves one of Trentino's most precious treasures: the Nosiola, an ancient indigenous grape variety that was once at the heart of the region's wine culture but is now threatened with extinction. Only three hectares are dedicated to this rare variety. Nosiola, whose name is derived from the dialect word "nosela" for hazelnut, requires patience and sensitivity. In wet Alpine years, it can be capricious, but under Elisabetta's biodynamic guidance, it unfolds its full aromatic complexity. The vinification process follows the revolutionary Foradori philosophy: after hand-picking, the de-stemmed berries are placed in Spanish tinajas, where they ferment on the skins for eight months – a process that gives the Nosiola its characteristic golden yellow colour and structural depth. A short maturation in used acacia barrels rounds off the profile.

The "Vigna" classification guarantees and designates the origin of a single-vineyard wine in South Tyrol. The Pinot Bianco from the single vineyard San Michele from the Barthenau winery has a strong personality that fully unfolds after an additional year of ageing in the bottle. It has a rich bouquet of green apple and banana, a full-bodied flavour with plenty of fruit, a medium, finely balanced acidity and a long mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Between light and shade, between strength and elegance, sometimes only a few hundred metres decide the character of a wine. Less than ten minutes' walk from Sgarzon, but geologically in a different world, lies Morei, "the dark one" in the old Trentino dialect. Here, on the warmer, rockier terrain of Campo Rotaliano, Elisabetta Foradori has been writing another exciting chapter in the Teroldego story since 1984. The name says it all: where Sgarzon embodies youthful freshness, Morei reveals the deep, mineral soul of this extraordinary grape variety. The 2.5-hectare plot rests on the ancient riverbed of the Noce, where thousands of years of erosion have left behind a mosaic of pebbles, sand and dolomite rock. This stony matrix stores the heat of the dolomite sun and releases it to the vines at night – a natural heat reservoir that gives Teroldego its characteristic depth and concentration.

This classic Barolo, based on an exciting blend of plots from Serralunga d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto and Barolo, shows the stylistic signature of the region at its best. The soils are structurally diverse: rich in calcareous marl, loam and mineral intersperses, each parcel contributes its part to the tension of the wine. The 2020 vintage reveals a model year of balance: a cool, precise ripening process with milder temperatures early on, followed by warm but balanced days and cool nights until the harvest. After traditional vinification – including daily pumping over during the 25-day maceration period – the wine matured for around 24–30 months in tonneaux.

Feudi's Riserva Piano di Montevergine is only vinified in outstanding years. The wine has a very impressive concentration and great richness in every vintage. Dark and brooding on first impression, it slowly awakens in the glass with a captivating blend of menthol, mint and exotic spices that evolves with a lively note of cinnamon-dusted redcurrant. This velvety-smooth and elegant wine appears heavy at first, but is quickly enlivened by a core of vibrant acidity and zesty citrus notes that embellish the tart black fruits. The tannins on the finish are sweet and chalky, while notes of wild red plum and blood orange keep the tasterer coming back for more. SUPERIORE.DE

Castello di Ama thinks in concentric circles. The Chianti Classico Ama is the first – accessible, direct and immediate. The San Lorenzo Gran Selezione is the innermost – dense, expressive, for decades. In between, with the birth of the 2018 vintage, the Montebuoni was created: a Chianti Classico Riserva that strives for the depth of the San Lorenzo and preserves the drinking pleasure of the Ama. Castello di Ama itself calls it the most honest representation of the elegance of the Sangiovese grape in this terroir – and that is a lot, from a house that has helped set the standard for this elegance. The Montebuoni comes from the valley of the same name – the most south-westerly and at the same time climatically most versatile of the four Ama vineyard sites between 420 and 508 metres above sea level. The soils vary: heavy clays at the bottom, limestone and scree at the top. Both give the Sangiovese something different – structure and fullness from below, freshness and minerality from the higher altitudes. This tension is the secret of the wine.

In the amphitheatre of the Tuscan hills of Castellina lies a single vineyard site called Il Poggiale, whose history dates back to 1968, when Paolo Panerai united four historic Poderi into a visionary project. Here, on the limestone soils between 350 and 400 metres above sea level, only Sangioveto thrives – the noblest local variety of Sangiovese – supplemented by only a few per cent of the autochthonous Canaiolo and Colorino varieties.

The fifth vineyard. Such is the simple origin of this name – and so direct is Carlo Ferrini's philosophy behind it. La Quinta is not the little sister of Brunello, but its self-confident counterpart: the same address in Sant'Angelo in Colle at 400 metres, the same Sangiovese from skeleton-rich soils with a south-easterly orientation, the same care in the cellar and ageing. Only the time horizon is different. 2020 brought Montalcino warm, balanced conditions with a good night-day temperature amplitude – a vintage that favoured depth and drinkability in equal measure. 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration in steel, then 12 months in a combination of 700-litre Liters, 2,500-litre Liters barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounded off in cement tanks. The baked clay amphora provides the breathable openness that keeps the wine alive without oxidising it.

The dark, ruby red colour alone gives an idea of the enormous concentration of this Pinot Nero Riserva. The complex aroma with the multi-faceted flavours of a classic Burgundy is fascinating. Sour cherries and raspberries, delicate vanilla tones and fine spices. A fleshy, sensual and enveloping structure on the palate, plenty of elegance and a taut, dynamic finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Different location, different profile: Contrada Calderana Sottana comes from a special place. In the Calderana Sottana subzone, south-east of the summit, where the altitude begins and the soil consists of fine volcanic clay and sand, vines are rooted at over 700 metres, spoilt by the sun early in the morning and shaped by the coolness and high-altitude winds at night – a terroir that favours tension and freshness in equal measure. The 2021 vintage was also restrained in its ripeness in this location, but rich in expression. Vinified from 100% Nerello Mascalese, traditionally grown in Alberello, the wine is aged for around 12 months in tonneaux after controlled fermentation and short maceration. The ageing process is seen as fine work – it shapes and emphasises without overpowering.

Since the 2018 vintage, a small amount of Merlot has been vinified separately at Rampolla, named after the mother Donna Liù. The unfiltered wine was matured for 12 months in terracotta amphorae and fermented to almost 0 g/l residual sugar. Very elegant, fresh nose of sour cherry, laurel and cassis. Fresh on the palate and without the sometimes exuberant opulence of some other Tuscan Merlots, with a precise cherry fruit and salty-minty component. A finely chiselled Merlot that is hard to beat in terms of freshness, clarity and personality. It bridges the gap wonderfully between the Chianti Classico and the two flagships of the house, Sammarco and d'Alceo. Needs a few more years in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

One of the really great Chardonnays from South Tyrol: bright, intense light golden yellow in colour. In the powerful yet harmonious Chardonnay Baron Salvadori, the aromas of fine vanilla cream and ripe fruit change in quick succession. Fresh and round on the palate, the accentuated fruit is accompanied by balanced acidity, a fine salty vein and well-integrated wood spice. SUPERIORE.DE

The extremely popular and elegant Amarone classic from Zenato comes from Sant'Ambrogio, the heart of the Valpolicella Classico, where the family has had its home since 1960. Corvina dominates the cuvée with eighty per cent, complemented by Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina – all from the slopes of the Costalunga parcel. After the hand harvest in October, the ritual of appassimento begins: the grapes rest for four months in shallow crates, losing water and concentrating sugar and flavours. Pressing does not take place until January, followed by slow fermentation with skin contact. The wine then matures for thirty-six months in large Slavonian oak barrels before being released after further maturation in the bottle.

The South Tyrolean Pinot Noir Riserva Anrar is fresh and light on the palate with wild berries and cassis, followed by dried mint and lavender flavours. This red wine fermented in steel and matured in barriques is silky and smooth, almost without rough edges. Cantina Andriano Kellerei Andrian works with a skilful hand when it comes to Pinot Noir, preserving the nuanced elegance of the grape variety's aromas. SUPERIORE.DE

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The A in the name of Boggina stands for the natural wine aged for around 6 months in 400-600 Liters terracotta amphorae, which is bottled in a run of just 5,000 bottles without the addition of sulphites. Light, bright garnet red in colour. The bouquet is ethereal, very delicate and nuanced, with a very precise interpretation of the fragrance of the Sangiovese grape. Medium-bodied on the palate, with an exceptionally beautiful structure and authentic Sangiovese fruit with a salty vein. The finish is highly drinkable, with silky tannins and beguiling length. A masterpiece of beauty and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited the estate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona – a vote of confidence that is renewed every year. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia continue the legacy, 55 hectares in the privileged area of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the shadow of the Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the most brilliant of the last decade: bright September days and cool nights gave the Sangiovese that rare balance of aromatic precision and tannic finesse. 24 months in large Slavonian barrels, then further rest in the bottle.

"Pio di lei", for the ladies. A name that pays homage to the strong women of the Pio Cesare family. When Pio Boffa planted the first Chardonnay vines in 1981, it was a revolutionary act in the Langhe. Growing a French white wine here, in the realm of Nebbiolo, where Barolo and Barbaresco have reigned supreme for centuries – that bordered on heresy. But Pio had a vision: to create a white wine with the body, complexity and ageing potential of the great reds. The first vintage came onto the market in 1985. Today, almost four decades later, his daughter Federica continues the legacy and proves that the women of this family are not just namesakes, but creators.

It was a dream that engineer Gastone Bazzocchi planted in the Tuscan soil in 1947 – five hectares of Sangiovese on a hill he called Bòggina. Luca Sanjust, his grandson and former painter, now thinks of Paul Klee's "Angelus Novus" and Walter Benjamin's interpretation of this angel, who "looks to the past" while "a storm blows from paradise". This is Bòggina: a wine with its eyes turned to the past and yet mercilessly pushed into the future. Since 2011, Petrolo has been experimenting with the vinification of a special lot from the best grapes from this historic vineyard in terracotta amphorae from Impruneta – the pottery that has characterised Tuscan culture since the Etruscans. Fermentation takes place for two weeks in 300 and Liters litre amphorae with indigenous yeasts before the vessels are hermetically sealed. The wine macerates on the skins for eight months, protected by natural skin contact without the addition of sulphites.

Michele Satta planted his first vines in Castagneto Carducci in 1991. No master plan, no blueprint from outside. Just the conviction that this soil, this sea air, this Tuscan stubbornness can do more than what Bolgheri was already capable of back then. Piastraia was the result. In bottle since 1994, a Bolgheri Superiore since 2012 – and 2023: the thirtieth vintage. Thirty vintages of observation, correction, refinement and always on course for excellence. The blend – cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc – ferments separately in conical concrete vats, exclusively with wild yeasts. No intervention, no shortcuts. 18 to 24 months in French barriques, one fifth of which is new – subtle framing, no dominance.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.