James Suckling | 95–100 Points

1992 was the last vintage of Boscarelli's first Riserva era. This was followed by a break of almost two decades – this was not a period of inactivity, but a lot of work and research: replanting the historic vineyards, selecting clones, researching the climatic variations of the Cervognano terroir. It was not until 2010, when the young vines of the autochthonous new plantings first showed the complexity that had been awaited, that the Riserva returned. Just like in the 1970s and 80s: exclusively from indigenous grape varieties. Prugnolo Gentile and Colorino. Vines over 20 years old from the historic core of the Boscarelli vineyards in Cervognano – calcareous, alluvial sandy soils with silt, clay, minerals and a rich stone skeleton that varies depending on the location and altitude. 6,500 vines per hectare.

"Courageous, headstrong, rebellious" – is how Arianna Occhipinti describes the wine that most resembles her. Frappato, this quintessentially Sicilian grape variety of rural origins, is rooted here in calcareous sandy soils at the foot of the Monti Iblei. Forty-year-old vines near Vittoria, at an altitude of 280 metres, cultivated biodynamically. The winemaking process follows the rhythm of nature: spontaneous fermentation in concrete, thirty days" contact with the skins, then fourteen months" ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered, the wine retains its vibrant authenticity.

The name embodies three thousand years of history: the Etruscans called this land "Fèlsina", long before it came to be known as Tuscany. When shipowner Domenico Poggiali acquired the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga in 1966, it was known primarily for its olive oil – there were just two and a half hectares of vines on the 400-hectare estate. The Vin Santo embodies the estate’s philosophy: respect for tradition, but no fear of the unconventional. Unlike most producers, Felsina uses not only Trebbiano and Malvasia, but also adds a proportion of Sangiovese – the grape variety that has made the estate world-famous with its Rancia and Fontalloro wines. The Sangiovese lends the sweet wine structure and colour, a hint of tannin and that elegance which characterises Felsina's wines.

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name suits an estate that has ranked among the defining producers of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first in the region to convert to organic viticulture – as early as 1988, when the very idea of "organic" winegrowing still raised eyebrows. Today, Querciabella follows a rigorously organic approach, shaped both in the vineyard and in the cellar by a particularly mindful use of natural resources and clear ethical principles. That Daniele Cernilli (Dr. Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as little surprise to anyone familiar with these wines.

A very special wine made from overripe and strictly selected Aglianico grapes that thrive in Mastroberardino's south-facing vineyards. The Taurasi is aged for two years in oak barrels and one year in the bottle. A wine with a fascinating personality, power and extremely high Storage potential.

The "Vigna" classification guarantees and designates the origin of a single-vineyard wine in South Tyrol. The Pinot Bianco from the single vineyard San Michele from the Barthenau winery has a strong personality that fully unfolds after an additional year of ageing in the bottle. It has a rich bouquet of green apple and banana, a full-bodied flavour with plenty of fruit, a medium, finely balanced acidity and a long mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Two vineyards, each covering 2.5 hectares, the same grape variety, the same cellar ageing: the estate presents Morei and Sgarzon side by side to demonstrate the breadth of expression that Teroldego can offer. In the Trentino dialect, the name "Morei" means "dark", and the grapes from this vineyard live up to that promise. The alluvial soil of the Noce river here is full of pebbles, amongst which the roots rest in the sand, imparting density and minerality to the wine. Years of biodynamic cultivation had brought out the character of each plot, until it became clear that both sites needed to be vinified separately. The wine remains on the skins for eight months, fermented with wild yeasts in Spanish clay amphorae from Villarrobledo, and is bottled without filtration. 2024 was the wettest vintage in Trentino since 1921 – cool and wet – lending the Teroldego freshness and crisp acidity.

The name refers to a vineyard in Campo Rotaliano, and the vineyard lives up to its name: the vines thrive in a cooler climate, and the Teroldego acquires an unusual freshness here. 2.5 hectares of alluvial soil, predominantly sandy, demonstrate just how different the same variety tastes when the soil becomes lighter. Anyone wishing to understand why such an ancient variety has so many facets should look to the estate's research: In collaboration with the University of Milan, the estate has traced Teroldego back to the Neolithic period, to cross-breeds between wild and Oriental vines, and has discovered a close kinship with Syrah that is still not fully understood today. The wine is left to age for eight months with the skins in Spanish clay amphorae from Villarrobledo; it is fermented with wild yeasts and bottled without filtration. This ageing process preserves and enhances the differences between the vineyards – and they are significant. The 2024 harvest took place from 29 August to 30 September, following a cold, rainy June and July.

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Mount Etna where an "Etna Bianco Superiore" is permitted to be bottled – and for good reason: on this steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces, only Carricante may be planted. The vines are trained like little saplings on chestnut wood stakes. The east-facing aspect and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and, ultimately, a white wine of aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Mount Etna. More floral and citrusy on the nose than the standard Carricante, the Superiore also exhibits slightly more body, acidity, depth and finesse. Its elegant acidity makes it vibrantly fresh and long on the palate, ensuring an exciting drinking experience and excellent ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

This classic Barolo, based on an exciting blend of plots from Serralunga d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto and Barolo, shows the stylistic signature of the region at its best. The soils are structurally diverse: rich in calcareous marl, loam and mineral intersperses, each parcel contributes its part to the tension of the wine. The 2020 vintage reveals a model year of balance: a cool, precise ripening process with milder temperatures early on, followed by warm but balanced days and cool nights until the harvest. After traditional vinification – including daily pumping over during the 25-day maceration period – the wine matured for around 24–30 months in tonneaux.

Feudi's Riserva Piano di Montevergine is only vinified in outstanding years. The wine has a very impressive concentration and great richness in every vintage. Dark and brooding on first impression, it slowly awakens in the glass with a captivating blend of menthol, mint and exotic spices that evolves with a lively note of cinnamon-dusted redcurrant. This velvety-smooth and elegant wine appears heavy at first, but is quickly enlivened by a core of vibrant acidity and zesty citrus notes that embellish the tart black fruits. The tannins on the finish are sweet and chalky, while notes of wild red plum and blood orange keep the tasterer coming back for more. SUPERIORE.DE

Piano di Montevergine is not solely a vineyard. Hazelnut and olive trees have always stood amongst the rows of vines – a traditional Irpinian mixed-cropping system, as was customary in this region before monocultures became the norm. It is precisely from this iconic vineyard belonging to Feudi di San Gregorio that the Taurasi Riserva is produced. Taurasi is regarded as Campania's most demanding red wine appellation, holding DOCG status since 1993, grown on volcanic soils in the shadow of the Montevergine massif. The Aglianico, used here in its entirety, demands patience: 24 months in barrique, followed by at least a further 30 months in the bottle before the wine leaves the estate – more than four years from vineyard to release.

Milo is the only municipality on the entire slopes of Mount Etna whose white wines are permitted to bear the suffix "superiore". This distinction was enshrined in the DOC regulations in 1968 – and reflects the microclimate of this eastern flank: twice the rainfall compared to the north-facing slopes, an easterly aspect towards the Ionian Sea, cooling sea breezes, and volcanic soils composed of ash and Ripiddu lapilli. In the mists of the summer nights that Marco de Grazia describes in his writings on Milo, the Carricante ripens here to a level of precision it achieves nowhere else on the volcano.

Rosso del Conte was Sicily's first answer to the question of whether the island could produce wines of international standing and longevity. Conte Giuseppe posed this question in 1970 – and the answer has been contained in every bottle produced on the high hills of Tenuta Regaleali ever since. The grapes – Nero d'Avola, Perricone and a small proportion of other varieties grown on the estate – ripen at an altitude of 480 metres, facing south-southeast, on loamy-sandy, slightly calcareous soil, trained using the Alberello system. Hand-harvested, traditionally fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, 20 days on the skins, 18 months in new French barriques.

Vorberg – the name gives away its location: on the steep southern slopes of the Tschöggelberg, at altitudes between 450 and 650 metres, a Pinot Blanc thrives that reveals the full potential of this famous South Tyrolean grape variety. The stony, sandy-loam soils, formed from weathered porphyry, with their high quartz content and slightly acidic pH levels, characterise a terroir of extremes: high water permeability, limited nutrient availability and naturally restricted yields. This microstress elicits unique, terroir-specific polyphenols from the vines. Hand-harvested, gently pressed as whole bunches, followed by natural sedimentation. Slow fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in large oak barrels (70 and 30 hl), followed by partial malolactic fermentation and 12 months' ageing on the fine lees in traditional wooden barrels.

Castello di Ama thinks in concentric circles. The Chianti Classico Ama is the outermost – approachable, direct, meant to be enjoyed straight away. The San Lorenzo Gran Selezione is the innermost – dense, expressive, meant to be laid down for decades. In between, with the release of the 2018 vintage, came the Montebuoni: a Chianti Classico Riserva that aspires to the depth of the San Lorenzo whilst retaining the drinking pleasure of the Ama. Castello di Ama itself calls it the most honest expression of the Sangiovese grape's elegance in this terroir – and that is saying a lot, coming from a winery that has helped set the benchmark for this elegance. Montebuoni comes from the valley of the same name – the south-westernmost and, at the same time, climatically most diverse of the four Ama vineyard sites, situated between 420 and 508 metres above sea level. The soils vary: heavy clay at the bottom, limestone and scree at the top. Both give the Sangiovese something different – structure and body from below, freshness and minerality from the higher elevations. This interplay is the secret of the wine.

Juvelo is Andrian's crowning glory. A wine that only comes into being when nature plays its part. December in South Tyrol – whilst others have long since brought in their harvest, a few Gewürztraminer vines here are still waiting for the perfect moment. The grapes remain on the vine until they show clear signs of noble rot. Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot", perforates the skin of the berries and allows the water to evaporate. What remains is pure concentration. The harvest are harvest by hand, selected berry by berry. There's no rush. The grapes are gently pressed, then fermentation begins in small oak barrels. This is followed by 11 months' ageing in barriques – the time this wine needs to develop its complexity.

Sotto Casa – in the truest sense of the word: the single vineyard of the same name lies directly next to the winery, on stony alluvial soil – the most intimate vineyard on the entire estate and the only one from which Boscarelli combines international grape varieties with Prugnolo Gentile. Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and a tannic frame, a small proportion of Merlot gives fullness and softness – sangiovese remains the soul. The three varieties are harvested separately, fermented separately – in oak vats with natural yeasts for around 10 days at controlled temperatures. Each cuvée then matures separately in Slavonia and Allier oak between 3 and 30 hectolitres, depending on the varietal character. Blending only takes place at the end of the 28 to 32 months of maturation.

The history of the Campolungo vineyard blends millennia of Tuscan wine-growing culture with a visionary dedication to perfection. These historic terraces, situated at altitudes of between 420 and 580 metres, were already recognised by the Romans as exceptional and have been regarded as one of the cradles of fine Chianti since the 19th century. The 2018 vintage tells the story of a particularly favourable climate: following a hot, dry summer, Lamole's extreme altitude preserved that crystalline freshness which makes Campolungo one of Tuscany's most exceptional single-vineyard sites. A pure Sangiovese made from hand-picked grapes of exceptional aromatic intensity. Following careful hand-harvesting and visual selection of the finest berries, the wine undergoes a two-week fermentation with skin contact in traditional wooden vats. Thirty months' ageing in oak casks, complemented by a small proportion in French barriques, results in a wine of multi-layered complexity and elegance.

A name that breathes history: since 2011, the grapes for Marchese Antinori have come exclusively from the vineyards of Tenuta Tignanello – the legendary location that lies at the heart of the Chianti Classico between the gentle hills of the Greve and Pesa valleys. Here, where the Medici once walked and where the Antinori family has been realising its visionary wine philosophy since 1850, one of the purest interpretations of Sangiovese thrives on stony limestone soils. The 2022 vintage tells of a summer of extremes – little rain until August, hot spells in June and July. But the old vines proved resilient: even budding, regular flowering, perfectly ripe grapes for the harvest. In the winery's cellars, winemaking was carried out with classic precision: gentle destemming, gentle pressing, one week of fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Ten days of maceration using gentle methods – an extraction that combines intensity with elegant, supple tannins. Natural acid degradation until the end of the year, then twelve months of ageing in French and Hungarian oak barrels, followed by a further twelve months of bottle ageing before release.

The fifth vineyard. Such is the simple origin of this name – and so direct is Carlo Ferrini's philosophy behind it. La Quinta is not the little sister of Brunello, but its self-confident counterpart: the same address in Sant'Angelo in Colle at 400 metres, the same Sangiovese from skeleton-rich soils with a south-easterly orientation, the same care in the cellar and ageing. Only the time horizon is different. 2020 brought Montalcino warm, balanced conditions with a good night-day temperature amplitude – a vintage that favoured depth and drinkability in equal measure. 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration in steel, then 12 months in a combination of 700-litre Liters, 2,500-litre Liters barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounded off in cement tanks. The baked clay amphora provides the breathable openness that keeps the wine alive without oxidising it.