James Suckling | 95–100 Points

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a genuine added value.

Mazon is known as Italy's Grand Cru of Pinot Nero – warm, brooding, concentrated. What few people realise: The plateau has a downside. At the northernmost tip, where the terrain rises to 430 to 460 metres and the downdraughts become cooler, lies the Vigna Herbsthöfl – the highest and coolest parcel of the entire Barthenau estate. Here, vines from a special selection of the neighbouring Vigna Roccolo grow on calcareous, slightly sandy glacial deposits – a soil that gives the wine a minerality and lightness that the classic Mazon profile does not recognise. The Herbsthöfl was vinified separately for the first time in 2022 – the latest "Vigna" wine in the Hofstätter portfolio. It is no coincidence that Martin Foradori-Hofstätter immediately declared it a Riserva: the parcel has the format, and the vintage provided the quality. Harvested entirely by hand, completely destemmed, fermentation in concrete vats with remontage, followed by barrique, concrete, bottle – the same care as its big brother S. Urbano, but with a different response: fresher, more transparent, finer in texture.

Cortona is only thirty kilometres from Montepulciano – and yet it is a different world. Here, on the high plateau with its dense Pliocene clays and iron oxide soils, around 300 metres above sea level, Merlot grows as if it had never been at home anywhere else. Federico Carletti recognised the potential early on – and In Violas was created in 2006. This was catalysed by his friendship with the Aliotti Tommasi family, owners of the same land. A Merlot that Carletti himself calls "con un'anima toscana". With a Tuscan soul. 100% Merlot, certified organic, 5,600 vines per hectare. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation and maceration in conical vats for 18 to 22 days, ageing in large oak barrels.

Giuseppe Benanti founded his winery in 1988; ten years later, he moved to Viagrande, the area from which his grandfather had originally come. On the south-eastern flank of Mount Etna, Monte Serra, an ancient volcanic cone, rises up. It was formed by an eruption through its own vent, separate from Etna's magma chamber, and left behind light ejecta: sandy volcanic soil with small pieces of pumice, so well-drained that the roots must dig deep in search of water. At altitudes of 450 to 500 metres, the vineyard is predominantly planted with young Carricante vines, trained in a bush style, at a density of around 8,000 per hectare. The grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. After destemming and gentle pressing, the must ferments for around 15 days in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, using a yeast strain that Benanti has selected itself in the vineyard following years of research. Twelve months on the fine lees, with regular stirring, followed by six months' ageing in the bottle.

CastelGiocondo is one of the great, historic estates in the Montalcino appellation, situated to the south-west of the town. The estate's origins date back to a fortress built in 1100, which once secured the road from the coast to Siena, long before wine was ever considered in this area. At an altitude of around 300 metres, the vines grow in three fundamentally different soil types – galestro, clay and Pliocene sand – whose interplay gives the wine its complexity, as each plot contributes its own distinctive character to the cuvée.

Matan Pinot Nero Riserva is one of the two red flagships of the family winery, the grapes come from the most valuable Pinot Noir vineyards in Montan. Deep ruby red in colour. The multi-layered and complex bouquet has aromas of dried cherries, lavender, orange zest, porcini mushrooms, cedar wood and cloves. Medium to full-bodied on the palate with supple, grainy tannins and fresh acidity. Concentrated, flavoursome and deliciously spiced, with a beguiling juiciness and plenty of potential. One of the great Pinot Noirs of South Tyrol! SUPERIORE.DE

Generous Brunello made from grapes from different vineyards in various sub-zones in Montalcino with the classic aura of its vintage. The aromatically intense bouquet opens with a scent of violets and then develops flavours of wild berries, vanilla, tobacco and chocolate. The flavour is characterised by a good balance between a full, juicy body, soft tannins and well-integrated alcohol. SUPERIORE.DE

Altesino has undoubtedly helped write the history of Brunello. The house was the first to introduce the cru concept in Montalcino, the first to introduce barrique ageing for IGT wines – and was the first to offer its Brunello for subscription. And yet the Annata Brunello is the most honest proof of what Altesino stands for: a style that aims for elegance and finesse, not power for its own sake. Four parcels – altesino, Castelnuovo dell'Abate, Macina and Pianezzine – give the wine its foundation: 100% Sangiovese Grosso from older vines on pliocenic, clay-sandy soils in the eastern hills of Montalcino, at 220 to 280 metres.

On 11 September 2001, a concert was to take place in the hills of Figline Valdarno. Sting was standing on the stage of his Tuscan villa when the news arrived from New York. He played anyway – not as entertainment, but as therapy. That evening, the feeling of emptiness and the search for meaning gave rise to an album two years later: "Sacred Love", a meditation on love as the only answer to a world in chaos. "We have to go back to that basic thing," said Sting at the time, "mother love, father love, husband love, wife love, child love – because when you don't have that, all hell breaks loose."

Located in the south of Montalcino, Ciacci Piccolomini's sprawling estate is characterised by warm, fragrant afternoon breezes from the Mediterranean. The wines are typically very fragrant and have a higher alcohol content, but also plenty of freshness and focus. In the aromas we find sun-kissed cherries and raspberries, red roses, tobacco, sage and thyme. Light-footed on the palate with grainy tannins that dissolve easily, this wine is already very accessible. It is literally fuelled by the golden light that falls on this part of Tuscany in the last hours of the day. A wine full of personality and identity. SUPERIORE.DE

Production at the Pertimali estate was down 20% due to the spring frost, and the decision was made to pour all the juice normally destined for the Riserva into the pure Brunello, resulting in one of the top wines of the vintage.

A castle ruin towers above the entrance to the village of Terlan. First mentioned in a document in 1206. Much has changed since then – the languages, the borders, the owners. What has remained are the porphyry rock, the northern foehn wind and the determination to produce wine here that does the village justice. Nova Domus – New House. Founded in 1893 by 24 winegrowers, with the simple aim of being better together than apart.

The grapes for the rare Naturalis Historia come from a 50-year-old vineyard located 400 metres above sea level with deep, sandy soils of volcanic origin in Mirabella. Deep, sparkling dark red colour. Redcurrant, sweet spices and aromas of dark plums and red cherries on the nose. Perfectly structured on the palate with well-balanced pressure and a full body that is never broad, but fresh, supple and very agile, leading to a harmonious, long-lasting final. An outstanding Aglianico that is already delicious to drink now, but will also age wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

The three Tedeschi siblings Antonietta, Sabrina and Riccardo, who also select the three barrels from which the blend is made each year, give their name to the "Ansari", which is only available in small quantities. Rich bouquet of dried fruit, sultanas, rum pot and chocolate. Firm on the palate with an excellent structure, the opulent fruit centre is joined by balsamic, herbal notes and a piquant bitter note on the long finish. The perfect addition to the famous family winery's top-class Amarone range since the 2016 debut vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

We are delighted to be one of the few retailers who receive a few cases of this finesse-rich sparkling wine every year. Brilliant pale yellow in colour, this clarity is also immediately apparent on the nose, where delicate fruit and citrus notes combine harmoniously with a refreshing minerality. On the palate, it has a pronounced elegance and finesse, supported by a freshness and precision that gives it great persistence. No dosage, less than 0.5g residual sugar, very convincing! SUPERIORE.DE

Rosso Arcurìa comes from the plot directly opposite the winery where Alberto Graci began his return to Etna in 2004, after turning his back on the world of finance in Milan. Whilst the entry-level Etna Rosso blends grapes from several vineyards, this wine comes exclusively from the plots in Contrada Arcurìa, situated at an altitude of 600 to 700 metres. The yield, at around 30 hectolitres per hectare, is noticeably lower than that of the entry-level wine, with three to four bunches per vine. The grapes grow on the same brown, volcanic soil as the Carricante used for the Bianco. 100% Nerello Mascalese is fermented in the traditional manner in upright, conical wooden vats, with a long maceration period on the skins, before ageing for 24 months in large Nevers oak vats, with malolactic fermentation occurring naturally.

In Sicily, "Firraru" is not simply a profession – it is a symbol of artisanal precision and quiet dignity. The blacksmith who, with patience, fire and strength, forges enduring values. Feudo Maccari dedicates its most impressive white wine to this image: a single-varietal Grillo that, like almost no other, brings to life the connection between terroir, patience and depth. The name has been chosen deliberately, for the wine is artisanal, elegant, precise and, at the same time, uncompromisingly Sicilian. The grapes come from a high-altitude plot in the south-east of the island, where the limestone-rich soil and proximity to the sea lend the Grillo structure and a salty edge. Hand-picking, gentle pressing and slow fermentation form the foundation – the wine is then aged for 12 months on the fine lees inLiters French oakLiters, with a portion also matured in concrete eggs.

When Ferruccio Ferragamo took over the dilapidated Borgo from the Duke of Savoy-Aosta in 1993, it was more than just a property purchase. It was, as he himself put it, "an act of faith". Thirty years on, the house's flagship wine embodies this spirit in every bottle: a commitment to uncompromising elegance. Its creation was preceded by a meticulous geological study. Each grape variety was planted where the soil best brings out its strengths: Merlot for velvety opulence, Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and depth, Syrah for freshness and aromatic lift. Separate vinification, followed by blending – a blend that bears the hallmark of the Valdarno. The wines mature for eighteen months in French oak – the Merlot partly in larger casks to preserve its fruit, the Cabernet and Syrah in first- and second-use barriques. The result is neither a copy nor a rival to Bolgheri or Chianti, but something entirely unique.

Archineri Bianco comes from a small, high-altitude single vineyard in the Contrada Rampante – one of the most renowned cru sites on Etna. The ungrafted vines, some of which are over 100 years old, are rooted at an altitude of 850 metres in barren, stony lava soil with north-eastern exposure. This extreme location ensures an extended vegetation period, pronounced day-night fluctuations and a precise, almost razor-sharp aroma spectrum. The single-varietal Carricante is selectively harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and then matured on the fine lees for several months.

Acininobili Bianco Passito is a stunning interpretation of the indigenous Vespaiola grape, offering impressive depth, complexity and personality. It is a superb dessert wine made from grapes that were air-dried for up to 120 days after harvest and developed Botrytis cinerea during the careful appassimento process. Basically, the same Vespaiola grapes are used here that are used for Torcolato. At the end of the drying process, the grapes that have developed noble rot are hand-selected and passed into this precious wine. If the noble rot does not appear, this wine is not made.

In the annals of northern Italian wine history, I Palchi marks a turning point – the moment when Stefano Inama realised that he had created a white monument that could compete with the world's great Burgundies. Born from the visionary search for "maximum purity", as Alessio Inama puts it, this Soave Classico not only represents the white flagship of the house, but also a new dimension of what the old Garganega vine is capable of achieving on volcanic soil. The name I Palchi – the terraces – is more than just a geographical designation. It refers to the broad, terraced slopes of Monte Foscarino, which have been characterised by the traditional Veronese Garganega pergolas for over half a century. It was here, on this extinct volcano that has watched over the Po Valley for 30 million years, that Giuseppe Inama began his quiet crusade in the 1960s. While other producers focused on quantity in the plain, he recognised the extraordinary potential of these ancient terraced vineyards – an intuition that today has left his grandchildren a legacy of priceless value.

Contrada Arcurìa is situated directly opposite Alberto Graci's winery. It was here, on the north-eastern slope of Mount Etna in Passopisciaro, that the estate's history began in 2004, when the former Milanese investment banker acquired his first plot of land following the death of his grandfather, who had made his own wine in central Sicily. Covering 25 hectares, 18 of which are planted with vines, Arcurìa remains the heart of his estate to this day. Unlike the entry-level Bianco, this wine is made from 100% Carricante grown at an altitude of 600 metres, on brown, volcanic soil with a high proportion of mineral particles and plenty of iron. Following gentle pressing without contact with the skins, half is aged in 1,Liters and the other half in concrete tanks, followed by twelve months on the fine lees and a further twelve months of bottle ageing before the wine is released.