Decanter

At an altitude of 1,030 metres, where apple trees still stood thirty years ago, one of Italy’s most remarkable Pinot Noirs is now grown. Peter Zemmer took the plunge a good decade ago: he planted Burgundy vines on the south-facing slopes at the Koflhof in Aldein – —an experiment at an altitude that is exceptional even by South Tyrolean standards. The first vintages remained unofficial; in 2016, hail struck. But since 2017, Vigna Kofl has demonstrated what is possible when porphyry soils meet dolomite carbonate and the daily ‘Ora’ breeze from the south provides that cool tension that Pinot Noir loves so much. The vinification follows the rhythm of the vineyard: seven days’ fermentation at a controlled temperature, gentle extraction through pumping over, then two careful rackings without a centrifuge – — a time-consuming process reserved for fine wines. Twelve months in French barriques, a further six in stainless steel, and finally half a year of bottle ageing.

The road to Sant'Angelo in Colle leads to the south-west side of the Montalcino hill. Here lies the Tenuta Il Poggione – one of the oldest and most reliable houses in the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi, a Florentine landowner, bought the estate at the end of the 19th century after, it is said, hearing about the beauty of these hills from a shepherd. He was one of the first to market Brunello under this name and one of the founders of the consortium. Today, the fourth generation – leopoldo and Livia Franceschi – run the estate with 140 hectares of vines, the oldest vines up to 60 years old and a philosophy that has not fundamentally changed in a century.

Fine Franciacorta brut in light yellow gold with a delicate mousse. Very complex and intense on the nose, characterised by fine ripe yeast notes, brioche, delicately spicy, juicy yellow fruit, some peach and citrus. Complex and powerful on the palate, juicy fruit, with a fresh structure, a seductive, minimal extract sweetness on the finish and fine red berry nuances on the taut final. SUPERIORE.DE

Following its acclaimed comeback in 2022, the next vintage confirms it: the Linticlarus Chardonnay is back – and is here to stay. The selective harvest from the finest Chardonnay plots in Entiklar, at an altitude of 300 to 340 metres in the immediate vicinity of the legendary Vigna AU, produces a wine of remarkable elegance. The glacial moraine soils, with their high limestone content and natural salts, shape the wine’s character. Twelve months’ ageing in barriques and tonneaux lend structure and finesse without overpowering the fruit.

This immensely popular and elegant classic Amarone from Zenato hails from Sant'Ambrogio, the heart of the Valpolicella Classico region, where the family has been based since 1960. Corvina makes up eighty per cent of the blend, complemented by Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina – all grown on the slopes of the Costalunga vineyard. Following the hand-harvest in October, the appassimento process begins: the grapes rest in shallow crates for four months, losing water whilst concentrating their sugar and aromas. Pressing does not take place until January, followed by slow fermentation in contact with the skins. The wine then matures for thirty-six months in large Slavonian oak barrels before being released following further bottle ageing.

Animanaturale from vines over 60 years old is the lightest and freshest wine from the new Animaetna line of the small garage winery Contrada Santa Spirito, which belongs to Feudo Maccari. Matured almost entirely in amphorae, the Nerello Mascalese grape presents itself here in all its fruitiness and freshness, completely unadulterated and pure. The grapes are foot-pressed, spontaneous fermentation is carried out using the grapes' own yeasts, racking and bottling take place according to the phases of the moon. On the palate, the flavours of red fruits and berries are tangy and vibrant with a precise and very mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"In 2012, I bought the small vineyard Le Gonnare and began to cultivate it. It represents the excellence of the Bolgheri terroir. The soil is clayey and rich in skeleton, which allows for very gradual ripening, a particularly important aspect for Merlot. The character of the wine is therefore Mediterranean, but balanced." Fabio Motta

Anrar is the answer to a simple question: what happens when South Tyrol's second most important red grape variety is given time in wood? While the classic Pinot Nero retains its freshness in stainless steel, Anrar takes a different approach. Approx. 12 months in French barriques for malolactic fermentation and further ageing. No wood show, but elegant integration. That makes the difference. But not alone: the best Pinot Nero vineyards around Andriano provide the grapes. Altitudes between 350 and 450 metres, where the calcareous clay soils are interspersed with dolomite rock. The cooler microclimate ensures slow ripening, more acidity and finer tannins. Perfect for a Pinot Nero with Burgundian ambitions.

Trefiano was created in 1979 based on an idea by Vittorio Contini Bonacossi, with the aim of showcasing the full complexity and longevity of which Carmignano is capable. Named after the historic hamlet of Trefiano, where a magnificent 16th-century villa is surrounded by two exquisite vineyards, this Riserva represents the very pinnacle of what the Tenuta di Capezzana has to offer. With just over 5,000 bottles produced each year, Trefiano is one of the rarest and most sought-after Tuscan Riservas – a wine that not only celebrates the present but was created for the future.

Tenuta Il Poggione is situated on the south-western slope of the Montalcino hill, in Sant'Angelo in Colle – one of the most historically significant areas within the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi laid the foundations here at the end of the 19th century, as a founding member of the Brunello Consortium and one of the first to market this wine under its current name. Today, his descendants, Leopoldo and Livia, cultivate 140 hectares of vines, with vines up to 60 years old, and adhere to a winemaking philosophy characterised by classical rigour: natural yeasts, large French oak barrels, and time.

Here comes the debut vintage of a great white wine from a classic red wine region. In a small edition of less than 6,000 bottles, an elegant and at the same time very independent Trebbiano was created, which rightly bears the label based on the famous "Castello di Brolio" Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. The white Trebbiano grape variety has a tradition of over a hundred years at Brolio, and the grapes for this white cru come from a small 1.18-hectare plot in the company's own Tarci vineyard. According to tradition, a monument was erected here to San Barnaba, the protector of the vineyards from hail.

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Dark and seductive with a blend of crushed plums, brown spices, cedar and a hint of cocoa. Its textures are like pure silk bordering on velvet, with a gentle blend of ripe cherries and redcurrants, underlined by salty minerals, while notes of citrus contrast towards the end. A web of fine tannin runs through the final, creating a gentle textural pull that balances balsamic herbs and a hint of mocha as blue and violet-coloured flowers slowly fade away. SUPERIORE.DE

Our pure enthusiasm for this authentic and wonderfully traditional Chianti Classico, which the likeable Monica Raspi and her family have been presenting to us for years: bright ruby red, finely spiced, with refined fruit depth, well-proportioned flavour, powerful, crisp structure, classic acidity and Sangiovese style, racy and mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

In the dizzying heights of Lamole, where Chianti Classico reaches its natural limits, Angela Fronti is writing a new chapter in her Sangiovese saga. Elle – the letter that stands for Lamole, but also for "Lei", the feminine elegance that permeates this exceptional wine. Spanning just 0.45 hectares, scattered across the steep terraces at an altitude of 540 metres, the old vines take root in that distinctive Macigno del Chianti – a compact, non-calcareous sandstone that makes Lamole a unique entity within the Gallo Nero territory. The Fronti family, proud members of the FIVI (Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti), embody their philosophy of absolute independence here: from their own vineyard right through to their own bottle. In Lamole, designated a magical UGA since 2017, they defy the extremes of the high altitude with a precision made possible only by decades of experience in viticulture.

For many years now, Istine has been vinifying a small and carefully selected portion of its Sangiovese grapes separately according to the vineyard's origin, in order to bring out and highlight the specific characteristics of the site, the soil and the altitude. Since then, the finest grapes from the estate's own vineyards – Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole) have been vinified separately, resulting in three now highly sought-after cru wines, of which just 3,000 bottles are released each year to specialist retailers and the hospitality sector.

Contrada Sciaranuova Bianco delivers an expressive portrait of the volcano – a white wine of crystalline clarity, grown at an altitude of 850 metres on the northern flanks of Mount Etna in the Contrada of the same name near Passopisciaro. The vines – almost exclusively Carricante – are deeply rooted in layers of lava rich in iron and ash, characterised by a strong day-night amplitude and a cool microclimate. The 2022 vintage was phenomenal in Sicily: a fresh spring, a moderate summer and a long ripening phase until October allowed for a precise harvest with excellent freshness and mineral expression.

Aluigi bears a dedication in its name: "a Luigi", for the man who, according to the winery itself, "made our life's project possible". Behind the understated "Gran Selezione" classification lies a personal gesture – the estate's most serious Sangiovese, named after a person rather than a vineyard site or a theme. The grapes come from the most rigorous selection of the oldest vines on a single plot, Vigna Campo ai Peri, south-east-facing at around 440 metres, overlooking the Lamole valley. Here, the schist-and-clay Galestro soil overlying Pietraforte rock has a noticeably higher clay content than in the estate's other vineyards. A single-varietal Sangiovese, organically farmed, with only around 5,000 bottles produced each year.

1919 is the undisputed top product among Kettmeir's sparkling wines. This is where all the expertise of the South Tyrolean company, which produces using the traditional bottle fermentation method, comes to the fore. The Chardonnay base wine matures in wood, the Pinot Nero in stainless steel tanks. Both base wines are then blended and matured for at least 60 months in the bottle on the fine lees.The result is a concert for the senses: a complex, multi-layered bouquet of citrus fruit, dried fruit and spices. Bread, smoke and minerals round off the exciting picture. On the palate, we are delighted by the freshness and depth, which never give the impression that there is too much of anything here, but that everything is precisely in its place. Tight tension on the palate, a lively and vibrant personality, flavour, spice and sensuality are combined with a seriousness and room-filling presence that rightly places the 1919 among Italy's great Spumanti. SUPERIORE.DE