Decanter

A Riserva that only comes into being when the year allows it – and which makes a promise with its name: Essenze stands for the essence of the grape variety, the terroir and the time. The grapes come exclusively from the best cru sites in the municipalities of Barolo, Monforte, Serralunga, La Morra and Castiglione Falletto. Each parcel is vinified separately, carefully monitored, matured – and finally composed like a mosaic. The result: a Riserva Barolo that does not need to be loud to radiate authority. It is only bottled in exceptional years such as 2015 – after more than 42 months of ageing in large barrels and barriques.

At an altitude of 1,030 metres, where apple trees still stood thirty years ago, one of Italy’s most remarkable Pinot Noirs is now grown. Peter Zemmer took the plunge a good decade ago: he planted Burgundy vines on the south-facing slopes at the Koflhof in Aldein – —an experiment at an altitude that is exceptional even by South Tyrolean standards. The first vintages remained unofficial; in 2016, hail struck. But since 2017, Vigna Kofl has demonstrated what is possible when porphyry soils meet dolomite carbonate and the daily ‘Ora’ breeze from the south provides that cool tension that Pinot Noir loves so much. The vinification follows the rhythm of the vineyard: seven days’ fermentation at a controlled temperature, gentle extraction through pumping over, then two careful rackings without a centrifuge – — a time-consuming process reserved for fine wines. Twelve months in French barriques, a further six in stainless steel, and finally half a year of bottle ageing.

A tribute to Luigi, Valeria's father, without whose support the life project of Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini in Panzano would never have been realised. Aluigi embodies the highest level of the art of Sangiovese from Le Cinciole – only 4,000 bottles are produced annually from the single vineyard "Campo ai Peri". This Gran Selezione comes from organically cultivated vineyards at an altitude of 440 metres, where south-west-facing vines are rooted in the characteristic Galestro soil over sandstone. The traditionally dense planting of 9,000 vines per hectare and the cool, high-altitude climate give the wine its characteristic elegance and complexity. Vinification follows the original principles of the estate: hand-picking and careful selection of the grapes, spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement tanks for four weeks. After malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for 24 months in French oak barrels of 25 hectolitres, followed by a further year in concrete and twelve months of bottle ageing.

The road to Sant'Angelo in Colle leads to the south-west side of the Montalcino hill. Here lies the Tenuta Il Poggione – one of the oldest and most reliable houses in the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi, a Florentine landowner, bought the estate at the end of the 19th century after, it is said, hearing about the beauty of these hills from a shepherd. He was one of the first to market Brunello under this name and one of the founders of the consortium. Today, the fourth generation – leopoldo and Livia Franceschi – run the estate with 140 hectares of vines, the oldest vines up to 60 years old and a philosophy that has not fundamentally changed in a century.

Fine Franciacorta brut in light yellow gold with a delicate mousse. Very complex and intense on the nose, characterised by fine ripe yeast notes, brioche, delicately spicy, juicy yellow fruit, some peach and citrus. Complex and powerful on the palate, juicy fruit, with a fresh structure, a seductive, minimal extract sweetness on the finish and fine red berry nuances on the taut final. SUPERIORE.DE

Following its acclaimed comeback in 2022, the next vintage confirms it: the Linticlarus Chardonnay is back – and is here to stay. The selective harvest from the finest Chardonnay plots in Entiklar, at an altitude of 300 to 340 metres in the immediate vicinity of the legendary Vigna AU, produces a wine of remarkable elegance. The glacial moraine soils, with their high limestone content and natural salts, shape the wine’s character. Twelve months’ ageing in barriques and tonneaux lend structure and finesse without overpowering the fruit.

This immensely popular and elegant classic Amarone from Zenato hails from Sant'Ambrogio, the heart of the Valpolicella Classico region, where the family has been based since 1960. Corvina makes up eighty per cent of the blend, complemented by Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina – all grown on the slopes of the Costalunga vineyard. Following the hand-harvest in October, the appassimento process begins: the grapes rest in shallow crates for four months, losing water whilst concentrating their sugar and aromas. Pressing does not take place until January, followed by slow fermentation in contact with the skins. The wine then matures for thirty-six months in large Slavonian oak barrels before being released following further bottle ageing.

Deep crimson ruby red colour. On the nose, it smells of raspberries with beautiful concentration, a peppery tingle and perfectly integrated oak. Lively, crushed red berry fruit on the palate with long, finely chiselled tannins. It closes up a little on the finish, so you can expect much more, but for now it is already irresistible. Balanced and very elegant. SUPERIORE.DE

Animanaturale from vines over 60 years old is the lightest and freshest wine from the new Animaetna line of the small garage winery Contrada Santa Spirito, which belongs to Feudo Maccari. Matured almost entirely in amphorae, the Nerello Mascalese grape presents itself here in all its fruitiness and freshness, completely unadulterated and pure. The grapes are foot-pressed, spontaneous fermentation is carried out using the grapes' own yeasts, racking and bottling take place according to the phases of the moon. On the palate, the flavours of red fruits and berries are tangy and vibrant with a precise and very mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"In 2012, I bought the small vineyard Le Gonnare and began to cultivate it. It represents the excellence of the Bolgheri terroir. The soil is clayey and rich in skeleton, which allows for very gradual ripening, a particularly important aspect for Merlot. The character of the wine is therefore Mediterranean, but balanced." Fabio Motta

Anrar is the answer to a simple question: what happens when South Tyrol's second most important red grape variety is given time in wood? While the classic Pinot Nero retains its freshness in stainless steel, Anrar takes a different approach. Approx. 12 months in French barriques for malolactic fermentation and further ageing. No wood show, but elegant integration. That makes the difference. But not alone: the best Pinot Nero vineyards around Andriano provide the grapes. Altitudes between 350 and 450 metres, where the calcareous clay soils are interspersed with dolomite rock. The cooler microclimate ensures slow ripening, more acidity and finer tannins. Perfect for a Pinot Nero with Burgundian ambitions.

Trefiano was created in 1979 based on an idea by Vittorio Contini Bonacossi, with the aim of showcasing the full complexity and longevity of which Carmignano is capable. Named after the historic hamlet of Trefiano, where a magnificent 16th-century villa is surrounded by two exquisite vineyards, this Riserva represents the very pinnacle of what the Tenuta di Capezzana has to offer. With just over 5,000 bottles produced each year, Trefiano is one of the rarest and most sought-after Tuscan Riservas – a wine that not only celebrates the present but was created for the future.

Tenuta Il Poggione is located on the south-west side of the Montalcino hill, in Sant'Angelo in Colle – one of the most historically significant areas of the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi laid the foundations here at the end of the 19th century as a founding member of the Brunello consortium and one of the first to market this wine under its current name. Today, his descendants Leopoldo and Livia cultivate 140 hectares of vines, with vines up to 60 years old and a cellar philosophy of classic rigour: natural yeasts, large French oak barrels, time.

The Pianodario parcel is located at an average altitude of 775 metres above sea level between the hamlet of Montelaguardia and Randazzo. It covers an area of around 8 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and are up to 40,000 years old.

The strictly selected grapes come from the vineyard "Il Corno" of approx. 400 m altitude with ideal southern exposure. Bright, sparkling ruby red. Well structured nose of blackberries, cassis, some cedar and shoe polish. Medium ripe, quite fresh fruit on the palate, yet supple and well balanced with all the volume. In the rest of the drink with great finesse, coolness and liveliness, the finish is long with well integrated wood, red fruitiness, with a slightly salty vein and lots of spice. A harmonious and well-proportioned top wine of the house, which can rightly bear the highest quality level Gran Selezione. SUPERIORE.DE

Here comes the debut vintage of a great white wine from a classic red wine region. In a small edition of less than 6,000 bottles, an elegant and at the same time very independent Trebbiano was created, which rightly bears the label based on the famous "Castello di Brolio" Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. The white Trebbiano grape variety has a tradition of over a hundred years at Brolio, and the grapes for this white cru come from a small 1.18-hectare plot in the company's own Tarci vineyard. According to tradition, a monument was erected here to San Barnaba, the protector of the vineyards from hail.

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Dark and seductive with a blend of crushed plums, brown spices, cedar and a hint of cocoa. Its textures are like pure silk bordering on velvet, with a gentle blend of ripe cherries and redcurrants, underlined by salty minerals, while notes of citrus contrast towards the end. A web of fine tannin runs through the final, creating a gentle textural pull that balances balsamic herbs and a hint of mocha as blue and violet-coloured flowers slowly fade away. SUPERIORE.DE

Our pure enthusiasm for this authentic and wonderfully traditional Chianti Classico, which the likeable Monica Raspi and her family have been presenting to us for years: bright ruby red, finely spiced, with refined fruit depth, well-proportioned flavour, powerful, crisp structure, classic acidity and Sangiovese style, racy and mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE