Carricante

Initially, the wines from Etna led a rather shadowy existence; the great potential of the wines, some of which were produced in very small quantities, usually only delighted connoisseurs. Even today, many of the winegrowers are still so-called insider tips, as the wines produced in small quantities hardly appear on the international markets, or only in very homeopathic quantities. Like us here at SUPERIORE.DE, Angelo Gaja recognised the incomparable elegance and class, the minerality and the purist style of the Nerello and Carricante grapes early on and therefore entered into a joint venture with Alberto Graci a few years ago.

The great prestige and undisputed high value of the vineyards, which are up to 100 years old and divided into small parcels at an altitude of up to 1,000 metres, led to the purchase of land on the south-west side of the volcano, which was launched on the market in 2017/2019 with the red/white debut vintage. The project is called "Idda" - the local name for the Etna volcano, which the locals thus assign a clearly feminine character. Idda Bianco 2022 is now the fourth vintage from complex, iron- and copper-rich soils at 630 to 820 metres above sea level. Incidentally, these are - how could it be otherwise - among the oldest in the still young Etna DOC region.

What we immediately like about Idda Bianco is the authentic Sicilian character of its cheerful bouquet. This marvellous Carricante-based white opens with cedar wood, citrus fruits, orange peel and cherries. The fruit is never heavy, but instead offers an elegant aromatic intensity, followed by pistachio and perhaps a hint of wild fennel. The wine's volcanic identity comes into its own with ashy and salty mineral hints. Our unreserved enthusiasm for its creamy texture, length and energy! SUPERIORE.DE

"The Bianco convinces with the combination of the velvety quality of the vineyards in the south of the volcano and the salty-mineral character of the soils, its precise nose and length." Vinum

"It has a fine, smoky, flinty nose with hints of peach, mango and white flowers. In the mouth it is intense and vertical, with juicy succulence and great acidity that defines its edges. It is finely structured and tangy, with flavours of peach, citrus peel, honey, lime juice and white flowers, finishing with a gentle stoniness." Decanter

"Sparkling and bright with green pear and lemon slices. Honeysuckle. Medium body with brightness and intensity of fruit. A hint of sea salt." James Suckling

"The 2022 Bianco is pleasing in many ways. It captivates with its unexpected richness of fruit, combining young peaches and apricots with white flowers and almond paste. It is round and smooth, but with an amazing mix of candied lime and salty minerals in the foreground, creating a contrast. Sweet florals on the inside complement the ripe stone fruits. The 2022 cleans beautifully, long and with a saline flair, while finishing crisp, full of tension yet delicious." Vinous

100% Carricante of incredible elegance and purity, its subtle aroma of herbs and citrus fruits is complemented on the palate by a wonderful minerality and salinity. A white wine full of expressiveness and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

"Carlo Ferrini's white wine interpretation of old bush trees: A mineral start, then plenty of finesse, the acidity invigorating but excellently integrated, the final precise and long. For a balmy summer afternoon." Vinum

"Bright straw yellow colour with subtle silver notes. Opens with notes of fresh, crisp apple, some jasmine blossom and citrus fruit. Salty and clear on the palate, spreads out well, fine citrus notes." Falstaff

"Carricante is the characteristic white grape variety of Etna, and this unripened example - only the second vintage from legendary winemaker Carlo Ferrini and his daughter Bianca - captures the unique character of the place and the grape variety: Bright and salty, it presents aromas and flavours of lemon, lime and apple. It is structured and ripe, but also very fresh, with a stony, salty wave followed by a subtle, creamy lemon confit. The finish is very long, fine and herbaceous. Marvellous." Decanter

"Lots of jasmine and honeysuckle with flavours of sliced pear and apples that develop into a medium body with wonderful depth and intensity. Great length. No wood. Flinty in flavour. Pure." James Suckling

"The Alberelli di Giodo 2021 Sicilia Carricante hits just the right mix of citrus fruit and salty minerals. The wine is balanced and intense and shows more complexity than one might expect. As it matures, it will develop even more complexity and show some of the beautiful Riesling-like petrol flavours over time. Production is limited to around 3,500 bottles." Wine Advocate

"Pure Carricante from an impeccable cru, a jewel produced in a few bottles of great refinement. On the nose, notes of candied lemon, thyme, then chinotto and a hint of jasmine. On the palate, it is taut, flavoursome, with a return of citrus fruits and floral sensations." Luca Gardini

100% Carricante of incredible elegance and purity, its subtle aroma of herbs and citrus fruits is complemented on the palate by a wonderful minerality and salinity. A white wine full of expressiveness and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

"This is pure carricante with honeysuckle, lemons, and light grapefruit with a salty sense to the aromas. The same character comes through on the palate with a medium to full body, creamy texture and pretty finish. Lemongrass and mineral highlight the subtle fruit flavors and acidity. Tangy. Clean and clear nature to this." James Suckling

Giuseppe Russo cultivates part of the 12-hectare San Lorenzo vineyard at an altitude of around 750 metres on the slopes of Mount Etna near Randazzo. The lava flows of recent decades have created a porous soil here, rich in volcanic rock and therefore providing excellent drainage.

Just 2,000 bottles are filled each year. The vines, which are over 80 years old, produce an extremely low yield, making the result all the more complex and multi-layered. Fine salinity, light-coloured stone fruit and a well-measured extract sweetness flow from the glass. A good structure on the palate, the acidity and noticeable minerality support the subtle flavours of white peach and grapefruit. The finish is smoky with a nice salty note. It is at its best at 12° and will be even better in a few years! SUPERIORE.DE

"Dusty white peach and orange peel scents are mirrored in the mouth, with some grapefruit, earth and wood tones. There's good intensity, and some ripe pineapple and floral notes emerge on the mid-palate before a fresh, lip-smacking salty finish. Delicious." Decanter

"An attractive wine with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, white flowers, stones and ash. Medium-bodied, multi-layered and complex, but at the same time lively and fresh. Juicy and exciting with a savoury, slightly phenolic and mineral finish." James Suckling

"The 2022 Etna Bianco San Lorenzo is shy in the glass and slowly awakens with a flavoursome blend of young peaches accompanied by grapefruit, rosemary and wet stone. The wine is very structured, silky and supple, with a depth of green apple and melon that soothes the senses. A saline note emerges on the finish, while the 2022 cleanses beautifully, leaving a mentholated freshness as the mango notes fade. The San Lorenzo is an absolute charmer and aims to please." Vinous

"With only a few vintages under his belt, Giuseppe Russo has created a beautiful top-class white wine from Etna. I tasted this sample about a month after bottling, and at this young stage the bouquet is very centred on citrus and salty minerals. But if you look beyond these two aromatic pillars, the wine reveals subtle layers of green apple, quince, pear and saffron. It shows a shy but compelling complexity." Wine Advocate

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco is allowed to be bottled as Superiore - and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like a small tree on poles made of chestnut wood. The eastern exposure and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in consistently high acidity levels and a white wine with an aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Etna.

Pietra Marina is a single-varietal Carricante from vines over 80 years old at an altitude of around 950 metres on the eastern side of the volcano. The grapes are not harvested until October each year. Orange blossom, lychee, elderberry and apple on the nose. Harmonious and balanced on the palate, with perfectly integrated acidity and a beautiful finish. Distinct character, full of elegance, profound, sensual and endowed with a stunningly clean spectrum of flavours. One of the rarest and certainly most interesting white wines in Italy! SUPERIORE.DE

"One of the longest-lived Bianchi of the volcano, timeless in its noble style: crystalline nose, fruit and macchi notes embedded on top; the crisp acidity perfectly integrated, beautiful smoothness and polish." Vinum

"Flinty, smoky and salty, this is a classic white wine with a stony, vertical character, but by no means lacking in body: the richness of the lees combines with wonderfully sweet stone fruits to create a seductive wine, made even more exciting by a hint of seaweed on the finish. This still youthful wine should be kept out of sight and out of mind for a few more years." Decanter

"The 2018 Etna Bianco Superiore Pietra Marina captivates with a savoury blend of crushed rocks, raw almonds and dried apricots. It has a deep texture with a savoury hint of fruit and a lively acidity that keeps the energy going. The 2018 leaves a hint of lemon and minerals on the long, lightly textured final, while a hint of liquid stone lingers. The Pietra Marina is still very youthful and tightly packed at the moment, but in a few years it will develop beautifully." Vinous

"The nose is a medley of citrus and tart aromas, with undertones of white pepper and flint providing balance. On the palate, melon, lemon, lime, tangerine and grapefruit join in, while stony, metallic spicy notes support these flavours in a long finish. Complete and satisfying." Wine Enthusiast

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco is allowed to be bottled as Superiore - and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like a small tree on poles made of chestnut wood. The eastern exposure and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in consistently high acidity levels and a white wine with an aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Etna.

Pietra Marina is a single-varietal Carricante from vines over 80 years old at an altitude of around 950 metres on the eastern side of the volcano. The grapes are not harvested until October each year. Orange blossom, lychee, elderberry and apple on the nose. Harmonious and balanced on the palate, with perfectly integrated acidity and a beautiful finish. Distinct character, full of elegance, profound, sensual and endowed with a stunningly clean spectrum of flavours. One of the rarest and certainly most interesting white wines in Italy! SUPERIORE.DE

The Carricante grapes for this extremely rare Etna Bianco come from phylloxera-resistant (pre-phylloxera) vines from a single vineyard on the eastern slope of Etna at an altitude of 800 metres. Only a single oak barrel is filled each year, resulting in less than 2,000 bottles per vintage.

Rich golden yellow with amber-coloured accents. Complex and well-structured aroma of herbs, yellow fruit and flint. Indescribable depth on the palate with a salty note, fresh fruit and mineral persistence. The final is firm and precise, the tension is perfectly balanced and the long-lasting impression is unique! SUPERIORE.DE

"Deep straw yellow with copper-coloured reflections. Serious, concentrated but restrained bouquet with hints of exotic spices, dried apricots and cedar wood as well as a faint hint of brioche. Initially straightforward and dense, it then opens up on the palate. Viscous lemon and grapefruit with a very subtle tannin structure. The finish is characterised by citrus fruits that provide a thrill. Complex, long and needs further bottle ageing." Jancis Robinson

"Made from grapes from 100 to 120 year old vines, this deep golden wine has enticing aromas of lychee, Spanish broom and wet stone. Round and enveloping, the elegant palate also shows depth and concentrated flavours of creamy pear, ripe yellow peach and tangy salinity alongside bright acidity." Wine Enthusiast

"Here is a wine that will keep Carricante lovers on their toes. The Pietradolce 2018 Sant'Andrea opens with a saturated golden colour and offers completely unexpected aromas of candied almonds, apricots, honey, saffron, pastry cream and so on. The complexity of the wine reveals additional layers of roasted herbs and crushed stone. Prolonged maceration on the skins is the particular style of vinification that gives Sant'Andrea its unique identity. There is a hint of dusty tannin on the finish. This wine is bottled in an edition of 1,800 bottles." Wine Advocate

"The frosted brass sheen of this profound white wine, along with tantalising aromas of sun-warmed peach skin, saffron and oyster shells, draw you into the glass where a rich palette of flavours awaits. Notes of dried apricots, white cherries, orange pits, almond shells, cloves and honeycomb are underpinned by a fine, chalky texture and pronounced acidity with a hint of Mediterranean scrub." Wine Spectator

"Super-floral and fragrant with a textured, waxy palate, it displays addictive notes of grapefruit, apricot skin, baked apple, exotic spices and even a grappa/ grape skin component. It's really fresh yet rich and complex, and will repay cellaring." Decanter

Davide Rosso's Etna Bianco from Contrada Montedolce is an energetic, fresh white that impressively emphasises its volcanic character with its mineral salinity. The bouquet begins elegantly with Sicilian flavours of orange blossom and sweet almonds, then opens up with fresh lemon, crushed apples and a hint of wet stone. Its medium concentration and crisp freshness will serve it well as it continues to develop in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

"Fresh and clean on the nose, dense and broad but with such clarity and juiciness - really lovely pink grapefruit, lemon and apple with crushed stone minerality and a hint of spice around the edges. The wine comes across as approachable and friendly, almost buttery, giving it a slightly thick texture. Round and forward, lots of life in this wine with lovely juicy acidity that really lifts the expression. Great stuff, chilled with seafood!" Decanter

The Carricante grapes for this extremely rare Etna Bianco come from over 100-year-old, phylloxera-resistant vines from a single vineyard on the eastern slope of Etna at an altitude of 800 metres. Only a single oak barrel is filled each year, resulting in less than 2,000 bottles per vintage.

Rich golden yellow with amber-coloured accents. Complex and well-structured aroma of herbs, yellow fruit and flint. Indescribable depth on the palate with a salty note, fresh fruit and mineral persistence. The final is firm and precise, the tension is perfectly balanced and the long-lasting impression is unique! SUPERIORE.DE

"The spicy, umami nose of old pecorino and wild herbs is in exciting tension with the sweetness of honey and the acidity of lemons. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and refreshing, tannic and nutty, but also persistently citrusy, while this umami note is joined by a subtle earthiness that introduces a finish with bitter almond skin." Wine Enthusiast

"Medium golden colour. Hints of lemon curd and toast on minerals and pineapple. Nicely phenolic and structured on the palate with bright acidity and some firm tannins. Full-bodied, long and very energetic." James Suckling