Carricante

At the heart of the north-eastern Etna amphitheatre, where Silvia Maestrelli's vision turned to stone, lies Fessina: a name that sounds like a whisper through the volcanic winds. Here, in the Frazione Rovittello of Castiglione di Sicilia, between two ancient lava flows from 1809 and 1911, a dream came true in 2007. Silvia, the pioneer – a Tuscan with a Milanese soul and a Sicilian heart – was the first woman on the volcano to recognise the extraordinary potential of this difficult, masculine earth. With the tenacity of a visionary and the sensitivity of a "female oenological vision", she created a refuge of excellence after long negotiations with the countless owners of the fragmented plots.

Here is one of the finest expressions of the white Carricante grape variety, aged on its fine lees for six months. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock rich in minerals and ash. The cool, high altitude, combined with intense sunshine and significant day-night temperature variations, imbues this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and a briny edge. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to ensure that the purity of the grape variety and the terroir is conveyed unadulterated in the glass.

When you start afresh on Etna, you don't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct small crater Montedolce on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision with which he grew up: cool nights, strong temperature amplitudes, mineral-rich lava sand soils, constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new sites – stands for the estate's younger Carricante vines, cultivated as Alberello in a north-north-easterly exposure. They represent a different tone to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and accessibility that makes the terroir of Montedolce immediately recognisable. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Then five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

100% Carricante from one of the youngest and, at the same time, most promising cru vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna: Contrada Taccione lies at an altitude of around 700 metres in Castiglione di Sicilia, characterised by volcanic sand, basalt rock and ash dating back thousands of years. It is a landscape in constant flux, shaped by lava, wind and time. It is precisely this interplay between barrenness and energy that Planeta translates here into a wine that seems tailor-made for subtlety.

This single-varietal Carricante from Tenuta Tascante comes from the districts of Feudo in Castiglione di Sicilia and Salice in Milo. The vineyards grow at an altitude of 600 metres on the north side of Mount Etna on volcanic sedimentary soils from different eras. The majority of the grapes grow on a terrace in Contrada Sciaranuova. Vinified in cool stainless steel, this white wine retains the mineral clarity and sulphurous notes of the indigenous grape variety. Linear and vertical, it presents itself with the characteristic acidity of Carricante, showing volcanic vigour in elegant purity. An authentic Etna character with four months of ageing on the lees that brings the aura of the volcano directly into the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Carricante from Planeta's Etna vineyard is an exceptional wine full of freshness, energy and minerality. This noble grape variety thrives in exclusive conditions, on volcanic soils and at altitudes of 870 metres. A wonderfully complex pleasure that is only ever released for sale two years after the harvest. The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. SUPERIORE.DE

In the early 2000s, Marco de Grazia, an American wine merchant with Tuscan roots, began systematically buying land on Mount Etna. Not because the volcano was the talk of the town at the time – it wasn't. But because de Grazia, who had been importing Sicilian wines into the US since the 1990s, recognised something that many locals had not yet seen: that these soils, these Alberello vines, these altitudes between 600 and 900 metres possessed something that could not be found anywhere else on the island.

The Sul Vulcano range marked the start of Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love for Etna, currently the hottest wine destination. Carricante is one of southern Italy's most exciting grape varieties, capable of developing complexity and terroir-driven character when grown on the right soils. The vines for Donnafugata's only white wine from Etna grow on mineral-rich volcanic soils at an altitude of 700–750 metres. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks before ageing for 10 months – partly in concrete tanks and partly in second- and third-use barriques – followed by a further nine months in the bottle.

Cottanera's Etna Bianco draws its expressiveness and a certain depth from Carricante grapes, which thrive at an altitude of around 750 metres in the barren, dark volcanic soils on the north side of the volcano. The interplay of high altitude, cool climate and mineral subsoil characterises the tension and freshness of this charismatic white wine. Straw yellow in colour with a silvery sheen. White flowers meet yellow citrus fruits, crisp pears and a hint of wet stone on the nose. Clear and straightforward on the palate with lively acidity, a fine texture and salty minerality that reflects the Etna terroir. A refreshingly purist Etna Bianco that harmoniously combines finesse and depth – ideal with oysters, ceviche or simply as a meditative soloist. SUPERIORE.DE

Solicchiata lies on the northern slope of Mount Etna, where the volcano still bestows everything upon its soils – minerality, warmth, vitality – without imposing the intense ripeness of the southern flank. The Faro family founded Pietradolce here in 2005, on 35 hectares at altitudes between 600 and 900 metres. Their philosophy: exclusively indigenous grape varieties, separate vinification of individual plots, and as little intervention as possible. The Etna Bianco is the gateway to this world – and at the same time an unmistakable statement of intent. 100% Carricante, Alberello, 800 metres above sea level. Sandy, volcanic soils, rich in minerals. Hand-harvested in the second half of October, when the long, cool nights on the north-facing slope have given the acidity its final polish. Gentle pressing, aged exclusively in steel.

A sparkling wine from the volcano – made from 100% Carricante and produced using the traditional bottle fermentation method, this Metodo Classico is an expression of the cool elegance of Etna. The grapes come from high-altitude, mineral-rich vineyards on the northern slopes of the volcano. After gentle pressing and vinification in stainless steel, the base wine matures on the lees for around 20 months before disgorgement. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a fine, continuous perlage. The bouquet is fragrant and precise, with notes of lime, white peach, brioche, crushed rock and a hint of aniseed. Clear, taut and cool on the palate, with lively acidity, a creamy texture and a fine, salty-mineral length that emphasises its volcanic origins. An enthralling spumante with character, far removed from broadness or trendy sweetness – ideal as an aperitif, with oysters, raw fish or fine Mediterranean cuisine. This Carricante proves that sparkling wine from the slopes of Mount Etna is not only possible, but fascinating. SUPERIORE.DE

The four wines resulting from the collaboration between Dolce & Gabbana and Donnafugata show attention to detail and unconditional love for Sicily. They are the perfect expression of two top companies "Made in Italy". They represent the aesthetic fusion of craftsmanship, creativity and Sicilian passion. Together, they have created a unique collection of wines and packaging that emotionally capture Sicilian culture and lifestyle and express a clear commitment to the beauty and tradition of Sicily.

Calderara is a wine with 100% volcanic DNA. Born on one of the most prestigious single vineyards (Contrada) of northern Etna. The site is located at an altitude of around 750 metres near Randazzo, where barren, dark soils of lava rock and basalt are weathered and large porous stones flank the rows of vines. The name is derived from "caldera" – a heat-accumulating rock structure that stores heat during the day and releases it again at night. It is this interplay of volcanic power and cool mountain climate that gives Calderara its incredible precision and depth.

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Mount Etna where an "Etna Bianco Superiore" is permitted to be bottled – and for good reason: on this steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces, only Carricante may be planted. The vines are trained like little saplings on chestnut wood stakes. The east-facing aspect and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and, ultimately, a white wine of aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Mount Etna. More floral and citrusy on the nose than the standard Carricante, the Superiore also exhibits slightly more body, acidity, depth and finesse. Its elegant acidity makes it vibrantly fresh and long on the palate, ensuring an exciting drinking experience and excellent ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The area surrounding the small town of Milo is the only vineyard on Mount Etna where an "Etna Bianco Superiore" is permitted to be bottled – and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on this steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like small saplings on chestnut wood stakes. The east-facing aspect and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and, ultimately, a white wine of aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Mount Etna. 

Marco de Grazia has been firmly established on the northern slope of Mount Etna for decades. But he did not stop there: over many years, he also explored the volcano's other slopes, bought grapes, produced wine for colleagues, measured altitudes, studied geological features and examined historical boundaries. At extreme altitudes on the southern flank, he was convinced he had found an area where Carricante thrives exceptionally well. For six years, he experimentally vinified grapes from there, convinced of their exceptional elegance, before he was fortunate enough to be offered a tiny, very old vineyard – precisely the one from which his favourite white grapes came. The constant fresh winds at 950 metres perfectly balance out the full south-facing aspect, says de Grazia himself. The first vintage was 2019, a gem, as he calls it.

Milo is the only municipality on the entire slopes of Mount Etna whose white wines are permitted to bear the suffix "superiore". This distinction was enshrined in the DOC regulations in 1968 – and reflects the microclimate of this eastern flank: twice the rainfall compared to the north-facing slopes, an easterly aspect towards the Ionian Sea, cooling sea breezes, and volcanic soils composed of ash and Ripiddu lapilli. In the mists of the summer nights that Marco de Grazia describes in his writings on Milo, the Carricante ripens here to a level of precision it achieves nowhere else on the volcano.

It was in 2007 that Marc de Grazia tasted a 42-year-old Carricante for the first time – and that moment changed everything. Three different occasions, three different bottles, yet always the same revelation: a wine of such impeccable beauty and youthful vigour, despite its venerable age, that the Etna pioneer knew immediately: this was the sort of wine he wanted to create himself. From this vision emerged Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito, a tribute to the past and, at the same time, a manifesto for the future. In the Contrada Santo Spirito, at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres in Castiglione di Sicilia, the Carricante vines thrive on jet-black volcanic soils, rich in ash from past eruptions. Here, where for centuries only red grapes had been cultivated, Marc dared to attempt the seemingly impossible: single-varietal white crus of world-class calibre.

This single-vineyard Carricante comes from the small Montalto vineyard, situated on the southern slope of Mount Etna at an altitude of approximately 950 metres. In terms of its overall character and aromatics, it is the most balanced and, at the same time, the most exciting of all Terre Nere's Etna Bianco wines; here, the full Etna profile is present in just the right measure: minerality, salinity, fruitiness and a perfect hint of orange peel and flint on the nose. On the palate, it is vibrant and refined, with an almost Burgundian character, full of finesse and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Whilst Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an airy altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Just a few kilometres away, yet geologically distinct, this Contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres, right next to the vineyard; and it is here that the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir reveals itself. In Calderara Sottana, Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures: a pure, elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unique geological fingerprint, and Calderara is one of them. Whilst the Santo Spirito captivates with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamier and warmer.

Whilst Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an airy altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Just a few kilometres away, yet geologically distinct, this Contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly adjacent to the vineyard – and it is here that the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir reveals itself. In Calderara Sottana, Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures: a pure, elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unadulterated geological fingerprint, and Calderara is one of them. Whilst the Santo Spirito captivates with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamier and warmer.