Carricante

At the heart of the north-eastern Etna amphitheatre, where Silvia Maestrelli's vision turned to stone, lies Fessina: a name that sounds like a whisper through the volcanic winds. Here, in the Frazione Rovittello of Castiglione di Sicilia, between two ancient lava flows from 1809 and 1911, a dream came true in 2007. Silvia, the pioneer – a Tuscan with a Milanese soul and a Sicilian heart – was the first woman on the volcano to recognise the extraordinary potential of this difficult, masculine earth. With the tenacity of a visionary and the sensitivity of a "female oenological vision", she created a refuge of excellence after long negotiations with the countless owners of the fragmented plots.

Here is one of the finest expressions of the white Carricante grape variety, aged on the fine lees for six months. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunshine and significant day-night temperature variations, imbues this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to ensure that the purity of the grape variety and the terroir is conveyed unadulterated in the glass.

When you start afresh on Etna, you don't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct small crater Montedolce on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision with which he grew up: cool nights, strong temperature amplitudes, mineral-rich lava sand soils, constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new sites – stands for the estate's younger Carricante vines, cultivated as Alberello in a north-north-easterly exposure. They represent a different tone to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and accessibility that makes the terroir of Montedolce immediately recognisable. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Then five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

This single-varietal Carricante from Tenuta Tascante comes from the districts of Feudo in Castiglione di Sicilia and Salice in Milo. The vineyards grow at an altitude of 600 metres on the north side of Mount Etna on volcanic sedimentary soils from different eras. The majority of the grapes grow on a terrace in Contrada Sciaranuova. Vinified in cool stainless steel, this white wine retains the mineral clarity and sulphurous notes of the indigenous grape variety. Linear and vertical, it presents itself with the characteristic acidity of Carricante, showing volcanic vigour in elegant purity. An authentic Etna character with four months of ageing on the lees that brings the aura of the volcano directly into the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Carricante from Planeta's Etna vineyard is an exceptional wine full of freshness, energy and minerality. This noble grape variety thrives in exclusive conditions, on volcanic soils and at altitudes of 870 metres. A wonderfully complex pleasure that is only ever released for sale two years after the harvest. The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. SUPERIORE.DE

Cottanera's Etna Bianco draws its expressiveness and a certain depth from Carricante grapes, which thrive at an altitude of around 750 metres in the barren, dark volcanic soils on the north side of the volcano. The interplay of high altitude, cool climate and mineral subsoil characterises the tension and freshness of this charismatic white wine. Straw yellow in colour with a silvery sheen. White flowers meet yellow citrus fruits, crisp pears and a hint of wet stone on the nose. Clear and straightforward on the palate with lively acidity, a fine texture and salty minerality that reflects the Etna terroir. A refreshingly purist Etna Bianco that harmoniously combines finesse and depth – ideal with oysters, ceviche or simply as a meditative soloist. SUPERIORE.DE

In the early 2000s, Marco de Grazia, an American wine merchant with Tuscan roots, began systematically buying land on Mount Etna. It wasn’t because the volcano was the talk of the town at the time – it wasn’t. But because de Grazia, who had been importing Sicilian wines into the US since the 1990s, recognised something that many locals had not yet seen: that these soils, these Alberello vines, these altitudes between 600 and 900 metres, possessed something that could not be found anywhere else on the island. Tenuta delle Terre Nere – the Black Earths – was one of the sparks that ignited the Etna phenomenon. The Etna Bianco is the cornerstone of this vision: a blend of four indigenous grape varieties – carricante, Catarratto, Grecanico and Minnella – from several vineyards on the cool northern slope of the volcano, at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres. The soil is black volcanic earth, rich in minerals but low in nutrients – — ideal for vines that need to dig deep. Hand-harvested in early October, cold sedimentation, fermentation at 13 to 15°C in stainless steel tanks.

Solicchiata is located on the northern slope of Mount Etna, where the volcano still gives everything to its soil – minerality, warmth, tension – without imposing the glowing ripeness of the southern flank. The Faro family founded Pietradolce here in 2005, on 35 hectares between 600 and 900 metres above sea level. The credo: exclusively indigenous varieties, separate vinification of the individual vineyards, as little intervention as possible. The Etna Bianco is the gateway to this universe – and at the same time an unequivocal commitment. 100 per cent Carricante, Alberello, 800 metres above sea level. Sandy volcanic soils, rich in minerals. Hand-picked in the second half of October, when the long, cool nights on the northern slope have given the acidity its final touch. Gentle pressing, ageing exclusively in steel.

A sparkling wine from the volcano – made from 100% Carricante and produced using the traditional bottle fermentation method, this Metodo Classico is an expression of the cool elegance of Etna. The grapes come from high-altitude, mineral-rich vineyards on the northern slopes of the volcano. After gentle pressing and vinification in stainless steel, the base wine matures on the lees for around 20 months before disgorgement. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a fine, continuous perlage. The bouquet is fragrant and precise, with notes of lime, white peach, brioche, crushed rock and a hint of aniseed. Clear, taut and cool on the palate, with lively acidity, a creamy texture and a fine, salty-mineral length that emphasises its volcanic origins. An enthralling spumante with character, far removed from broadness or trendy sweetness – ideal as an aperitif, with oysters, raw fish or fine Mediterranean cuisine. This Carricante proves that sparkling wine from the slopes of Mount Etna is not only possible, but fascinating. SUPERIORE.DE

The four wines resulting from the collaboration between Dolce & Gabbana and Donnafugata show attention to detail and unconditional love for Sicily. They are the perfect expression of two top companies "Made in Italy". They represent the aesthetic fusion of craftsmanship, creativity and Sicilian passion. Together, they have created a unique collection of wines and packaging that emotionally capture Sicilian culture and lifestyle and express a clear commitment to the beauty and tradition of Sicily.

Calderara is a wine with 100% volcanic DNA. Born on one of the most prestigious single vineyards (Contrada) of northern Etna. The site is located at an altitude of around 750 metres near Randazzo, where barren, dark soils of lava rock and basalt are weathered and large porous stones flank the rows of vines. The name is derived from "caldera" – a heat-accumulating rock structure that stores heat during the day and releases it again at night. It is this interplay of volcanic power and cool mountain climate that gives Calderara its incredible precision and depth.

In 1975, the Carricante vines were planted, which today bear the Etna Bianco by Giovanni Rosso. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, at 730 to 750 metres, exposed to the north-north-east – where the sun has to fight all day and the grapes ripen slowly, cool and with rare aromatic precision. Davide Rosso discovered this spot in 2014 and bought the property two years later. What attracted him was the same logic that guides him in Serralunga: not terroir for the sake of terroir, but one that characterises the wine, without help, without make-up. The soils of the Contrada Montedolce – volcanic sand, ash, mineral-rich subsoil, aerated and drained like hardly any other site on the northern slope – gave him what he was looking for. The old Alberello vines, trained with a double inverted Guyot, bear little. But what they do bear is concentrated. Hand-picked in October. Spontaneous fermentation at cool temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage. No wood. The vinification is silence – the wine should speak.

In 2002, Benanti dared to do the unthinkable: a Metodo Classico from pure Carricante – the first ever bottle fermentation from Etna from this noble indigenous grape variety. What was then an experiment is now a reference: hardly any other Sicilian sparkling wine comes close to the perlage quality of this house. The grapes come from the eastern and southern slopes of the volcano, where 20 to 60-year-old vines are rooted between 700 and 850 metres in mineral-rich volcanic sands – partly as traditional Alberello, partly on the trellis. Hand-picked, gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation at 16–18 °C in stainless steel. The wine rests on the fine lees until late spring, followed by bottle fermentation with selected yeasts. After 24 months on the lees, disgorgement and dosage take place; a further three months of rest complete the maturation.

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

Milo is the only municipality on the entire slopes of Mount Etna whose white wines are permitted to bear the suffix ‘superiore’. This distinction was enshrined in the DOC regulations in 1968 – and which takes account of the microclimate of this eastern flank: twice the rainfall compared to the northern side, an eastern exposure towards the Ionian Sea, cooling sea breezes, and volcanic soils composed of ash and Ripiddu lapilli. Amidst the mists of the summer nights that Marco de Grazia describes in his writings on Milo, the Carricante grape ripens here to a level of precision it achieves nowhere else on the volcano.

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Mount Etna where an Etna Bianco may be bottled as a ‘Superiore’ – and for good reason: on this steep vineyard, consisting of dozens of small terraces, only Carricante may be planted. The vines are trained like small saplings on chestnut wood stakes. The east-facing aspect and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and, ultimately, a white wine of aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Mount Etna. More floral and citrusy on the nose than the standard Carricante, the Superiore also exhibits slightly more body, acidity, depth and finesse. Its elegant acidity makes it vibrantly fresh and long-lasting, ensuring an exciting drinking experience and excellent ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

This single-vineyard Carricante comes from the small Montalto vineyard on the southern slope of Etna at an altitude of around 950 metres. It is the most balanced and at the same time most exciting of all Etna Bianco from Terre Nere in terms of its overall impression and flavour; the whole Etna package is present here in exactly the right dose: Minerality, salinity, fruitiness and a perfect hint of orange peel and flint on the nose. On the palate, it is vibrant and fine, with an almost Burgundian dimension, full of finesse and length. SUPERIORE.DE

While Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Only a few kilometres away, yet geologically different, this contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly next to the winery – and here the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir is revealed. Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures in Calderara Sottana: pure elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Etna, only three have this pristine geological fingerprint and Calderara is one of them. While the Santo Spirito impresses with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamy and warmer.

Just under 950 metres above sea level, on the south-western slope of Mount Etna, lies the Contrada Cavaliere, a single vineyard that stands out even in the diverse cosmos of the Etna Contrada. Less rainfall than elsewhere on the volcano, but an abundance of light and dramatic changes in temperature between day and night: conditions that give the Carricante that unmistakable tension for which connoisseurs seek out this contrada. The 50 year old vines are rooted in volcanic sands with a sub-acid profile and rich in skeletons – a soil that forces the plant to root deeply and guarantees low yields of just 6,000 kg per hectare. The grapes are harvested by hand in October, gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel using the estate's own Etna yeast. The wine then rests for twelve months on the fine lees, stirred regularly, followed by a further six months of bottle ageing.

Contrada Sciaranuova Bianco delivers an expressive portrait of the volcano – a white wine of crystalline clarity, grown at an altitude of 850 metres on the northern flanks of Mount Etna in the Contrada of the same name near Passopisciaro. The vines – almost exclusively Carricante – are deeply rooted in layers of lava rich in iron and ash, characterised by a strong day-night amplitude and a cool microclimate. The 2022 vintage was phenomenal in Sicily: a fresh spring, a moderate summer and a long ripening phase until October allowed for a precise harvest with excellent freshness and mineral expression.

Initially, the wines from Etna led a rather shadowy existence; the great potential of the wines, some of which were produced in very small quantities, usually only delighted connoisseurs. Even today, many of the winegrowers are still so-called insider tips, as the wines produced in small quantities hardly appear on the international markets, or only in very homeopathic quantities. Like us here at SUPERIORE.DE, Angelo Gaja recognised the incomparable elegance and class, the minerality and the purist style of the Nerello and Carricante grapes early on and therefore entered into a joint venture with Alberto Graci a few years ago.

Archineri Bianco comes from a small, high-altitude single vineyard in the Contrada Rampante – one of the most renowned cru sites on Etna. The ungrafted vines, some of which are over 100 years old, are rooted at an altitude of 850 metres in barren, stony lava soil with north-eastern exposure. This extreme location ensures an extended vegetation period, pronounced day-night fluctuations and a precise, almost razor-sharp aroma spectrum. The single-varietal Carricante is selectively harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and then matured on the fine lees for several months.