Brunello 2021 & Riserva 2020

In 1970, Caparzo produced its first Brunello, at a time when there were just thirteen wineries in Montalcino – one of the appellation's historic estates. What continues to set Caparzo's Brunello apart to this day is the provenance of its Sangiovese grapes: The estate is one of the few in Montalcino to own vineyards spread across various geographical zones throughout the entire appellation. Rather than drawing from a single terroir, this Brunello combines the microclimates of four vineyards into a complex whole: "Caparzo" itself in the north at 220 metres, sandy-clay Pliocene sediments; "La Caduta" in the south-west at 300 metres, loose, stony sandstone-schist; "Il Cassero" in the south at 270 metres, Pliocene sediments with a sandy, stony and schistose matrix; and "San Piero-Caselle" in the east at 250 metres, sandy-clayey.

Since 1957, the Ghezzi family has been managing the extensive estate on the south-western slope of Montalcino – covering a total area of 530 hectares, 50 of which are planted exclusively with Sangiovese Grosso, on clay-limestone soils containing silt and fossil inclusions. From this sunny, warm site on the Ombrone river emerges a Brunello that combines the vigour of the south with the elegance of careful clone selection. 20 to 30 days of maceration, fermentation at 26–28 °C, followed by 24 months in oak barrels and a full year of bottle ageing. The 2021 vintage is regarded as a classic, great 'annata': late frosts in April significantly reduced yields, whilst a warm but never overheated summer and two timely August rains brought the grapes to full, slow phenolic ripeness.

Montalcino is a hill. To be more precise: a single, large cone of limestone, marl, slate and sand that rises above the Val d'Orcia – facing north, south-east and south-west, and characterised by three completely different climates. Most producers in the appellation have access to one of these slopes. Val di Suga boasts all three: Vigna del Lago in the north-west, Poggio al Granchio in the south-east, and Vigna Spuntali in the south-west. Three soils, three microclimates, three characters – and a single estate that unites them all under one roof. The entry-level Brunello is the result of this unique location: a cuvée from all three vineyards that aims not for simplification, but for synthesis. Fermentation lasts eight to twelve days at a controlled temperature, followed by maceration for a further two to three weeks. The wine is aged for 24 months in traditional 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels, followed by six months in concrete, then bottled. The 2021 vintage saw a late frost in April – the harvest was reduced, the quality concentrated. A dry summer without extreme heat, followed by a long, consistent autumn. The Consorzio and a jury of eight Masters of Wine agreed on three words to characterise the vintage: fragrant, precise, vertical.

Sometimes a great vintage needs a bit of a scare to start with. In April 2021, the temperature in parts of Montalcino dropped to minus seven degrees – a late frost that affected the more vulnerable vineyards and reduced the harvest by around 15% compared with the previous year. What was a loss for some estates proved to be a boon for quality. Fewer grapes, greater concentration. The surviving vines seemed to know what was at stake. The rest of the year unfolded like a textbook example of classic Brunello meteorology: a normal spring, a hot, dry summer – then two crucial spells of rain in the second half of August, which provided the vineyards with water and gave the grapes their final aromatic complexity. The September nights cooled the Sant'Angelo in Colle vineyard to temperatures that distinguish phenolic ripeness characterised by true elegance. Harvesting did not begin until mid- to late September – patiently awaited, and fully justified.

In April 2021, temperatures in Montalcino dropped below zero. The vines, which had already begun to bud, were hit by the frost. What followed was a season of recovery: a rainy spring gave the vines the strength they needed to withstand a long, hot summer. Significant temperature fluctuations between day and night preserved freshness and aromatic precision. The harvest: concentrated, fragrant, healthy. In Montalcino, 2021 is regarded as a classic, elegant vintage. Not the opulence of 2019, nor the concentration of 2020, but balance. 100% Sangiovese, organically grown, spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels (30 and 54 hectolitres), at least 6 months in bottle.

Ugolforte was a resistance fighter. In the 12th century, he led the people of Montalcino against the Sienese occupying forces – a local hero whose name lives on to this day: in a Brunello. The most striking contradiction dates back to 2010. That was when Tenuta San Giorgio began officially supplying the Ugolforte to the Pontifical Swiss Guard – that 500-year-old corps which guards the Pope in the Vatican. The estate says that shared values, and the symbolism of St George himself – virtue and courage, good triumphing over evil – guided the decision. The wine of the medieval rebel in the service of Christendom's oldest army.

In 1980, Filippo Fanti bottled his first Brunello. He had taken over the estate in the early 1970s, replanted the vineyards, studied the soil plot by plot – and then waited for the first harvest he deemed worthy. This first vintage was no trial run. It was a declaration of intent. Since then, Tenuta Fanti has not missed a single vintage. Castelnuovo dell'Abate is the southernmost sub-region of Montalcino – closer to the sea, warmer and more Mediterranean than the northern vineyards, watched over by the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, a silent witness to centuries of history. Fanti owns 10 hectares of Sangiovese here, spread across various hillside plots at altitudes between 350 and 430 metres above sea level. Slate, galestro, clay, tuff – the soils vary from plot to plot, giving the Brunello that complexity which has always characterised the estate. Elisa Fanti, who joined the team in 2007, has fine-tuned the style: less intrusive oak, clearer fruit, greater transparency. 2021 was a year of great harmony in Montalcino: consistent ripeness, pronounced structure, elegant tannins.

Tenuta Il Poggione is situated on the south-western slope of the Montalcino hill, in Sant'Angelo in Colle – one of the most historically significant areas within the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi laid the foundations here at the end of the 19th century, as a founding member of the Brunello Consortium and one of the first to market this wine under its current name. Today, his descendants, Leopoldo and Livia, cultivate 140 hectares of vines, with vines up to 60 years old, and adhere to a winemaking philosophy characterised by classical rigour: natural yeasts, large French oak barrels, and time.

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited the estate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona – a vote of confidence that is renewed every year. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia continue the legacy, 55 hectares in the privileged area of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the shadow of the Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the most brilliant of the last decade: bright September days and cool nights gave the Sangiovese that rare balance of aromatic precision and tannic finesse. 24 months in large Slavonian barrels, then further rest in the bottle.

Forty vintages. You have to let that melt in your mouth: When Pierluigi Talenti left the mountains of his native Romagna in the early 1950s and came to the hills of Montalcino, he not only found work at Sant'Angelo in Colle, but also his life's work. For over four decades, he shaped one of the appellation's most famous addresses as cellar master of Il Poggione – and is still considered one of the founding fathers of modern Brunello. He selected his own Sangiovese clones, set new quality standards and became a role model for an entire generation. In 1980, at the end of this era, he bought the Podere Pian di Conte – an old estate with a round tower overlooking the Orcia Valley – and began to press his own Brunello. Pierluigi died in 1999. Since then, grandson Riccardo has run the estate with the same tenacity, advised by Carlo Ferrini and supported by the knowledge that there is something special in these soils of sandy loam, clay and galestro.

CastelGiocondo is one of the great, historic estates in the Montalcino appellation, situated to the south-west of the town. The estate's origins date back to a fortress built in 1100, which once secured the road from the coast to Siena, long before wine was ever considered in this area. At an altitude of around 300 metres, the vines grow in three fundamentally different soil types – galestro, clay and Pliocene sand – whose interplay gives the wine its complexity, as each plot contributes its own distinctive character to the cuvée.

Altesino has undoubtedly helped write the history of Brunello. The house was the first to introduce the cru concept in Montalcino, the first to introduce barrique ageing for IGT wines – and was the first to offer its Brunello for subscription. And yet the Annata Brunello is the most honest proof of what Altesino stands for: a style that aims for elegance and finesse, not power for its own sake. Four parcels – altesino, Castelnuovo dell'Abate, Macina and Pianezzine – give the wine its foundation: 100% Sangiovese Grosso from older vines on pliocenic, clay-sandy soils in the eastern hills of Montalcino, at 220 to 280 metres.

Francesco Illy came to Montalcino as a nature photographer – and stayed. What began in 1997 as a personal project is now one of the most exciting biodynamic estates in the appellation. Demeter-certified, run by a young team, with a philosophy that sees no contradiction between perfection and joie de vivre. The "Cielo d'Ulisse" – the sky of Odysseus – comes from the western plots of Montalcino, near Camigliano. Loamy-sandy soils with a touch of galestro, evening sun and a cool, wooded climate: a combination that lends Sangiovese freshness and elegance rather than power. Fermentation is spontaneous, and the wine is aged for three years in large, second-hand Slavonian oak barrels.

The estate is situated at an altitude of 320 metres, right on the hill of Montalcino, and in its cellar, beneath a 15th-century tower, large Slavonian oak casks rest alongside the finest bottles dating back to the 1976 vintage. In that same year, former advertising executive Sergio Rossi purchased the Colombaio, which had previously belonged to the Biondi Santi family, and renovated it from the ground up. He died in 2011; his wife, Donatella Monforte, continues his legacy, whilst Oenologist Vittorio Fiore has been with the estate from the very beginning. The 11.5 hectares of vines, exclusively Sangiovese Grosso, are situated on either side of the hill, near Canalicchio in the north-east and near Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south-east. The vines are on average 30 years old; the grapes are harvested by hand, and only the very best are selected at harvest. Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature of 30 degrees in stainless steel tanks, with the wine remaining on the skins for around 15 days. The wine is then aged for at least 24 months in 50- and 100-hectolitre barrels, followed by a further twelve months in the bottle.

There are vintages that you can sense even whilst in the vineyard. 2021 was one of them: April frosts reduced yields by up to a third; what remained ripened slowly and fully under a long, hot, dry summer. No rain in September, no rush to harvest – a luxury afforded by this vintage and one that is rare in Montalcino. For Giancarlo Pacenti and his north-facing Pelagrilli vineyards, this meant ideal conditions for a Brunello of classic elegance.

Anyone who knows the south-east of Montalcino knows: no sea breezes, no proximity to the lake, no soft light. Monte Amiata reigns supreme here – the extinct volcano in the background, which breaks the winds, intensifies the temperature fluctuations between day and night and gives the soil its unmistakable character: Galestro slate, gritty, barren, rich in minerals. Oaks and holm oaks stand between the vines, where elsewhere cypresses or olive trees characterise the landscape. Poggio al Granchio – the "crab hill" – lies at 380 to 450 metres, south-east exposure, the historical heart of the appellation. Val di Suga acquired this vineyard in 1999, thus completing a triangle that no other producer in Montalcino possesses. The grapes are harvested by hand in crates, in micro-zones, and the optical selection is uncompromising. In the cellar: fermentation for ten to fourteen days, followed by intensive post-fermentation maceration at 30 degrees for twenty to twenty-five days – this is where extract, density and colour are created. 2021 was particularly favourable for the Poggio al Granchio. The influence of Monte Amiata mitigated the dryness of the summer, while the long autumn ensured even ripeness.

The southern quadrant of the Montalcino hill follows its own logic: more warmth, more sunshine, and a ripening process that is more consistent and complete than in cooler exposures. Tenuta Campogiovanni is situated precisely here – on medium-textured silt-sand soils overlying sandstone and limestone, in a location that gives the Sangiovese Grosso reliability in poor years and depth in great years. 2021 was a great year – but it began with a shock. A mild, dry winter had brought forward budbreak; by the end of March, the best-exposed vineyards were already sprouting. Then came the April nights. Temperatures dropped below zero, and the early buds froze. Yields were significantly reduced. What followed was a rainy spring, which helped the vines survive a long and very hot summer. The grapes that survived concentrated what they had. Harvest took place from the third week of September through into October.

Montalcino is not a homogeneous terroir – it is a mosaic of microclimates, altitudes and soil types that produces completely different interpretations of Sangiovese within a very small area. San Polo is situated in the south-east, on the Podernovi hill, where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata shields the vineyards from hot sirocco winds and has left behind pyroclastic deposits that lend the Sangiovese a mineral character found in very few other vineyards. At an altitude of 450 metres, the estate is one of the cooler areas within the appellation – significant temperature variations between day and night enhance the aromatics and acidity, whilst the dry summer conditions concentrate the berries without causing them stress.

In 1977, at a time when the term "terroir" was virtually unknown in Montalcino and little attention was paid to the concept of zoning, Caparzo produced the first vintage of this wine. Its name derives from the farm where the farm labourers who worked for the owners of the nearby Palazzo Montosoli once lived. With "La Casa", Caparzo was once again a pioneer: one of the first single-vineyard Brunellos in the entire appellation, from one of Montalcino's most privileged vineyards. And this wine marks a second milestone: Caparzo was among the first wineries to introduce barrique barrels to Montalcino, thereby creating a wine of a gentle, elegant character. The five-hectare vineyard is situated on Montosoli hill, 275 metres above sea level, with a south-southeast-facing aspect. Montosoli is not a large hill, but its slightly greater altitude protects it from both mist and late frosts – a decisive advantage in this northern sector of the appellation, which has cooler average temperatures than other areas. The soil is schist-clay, known locally as "galestro", and is well-drained; the site enjoys an exceptional amount of sunshine.

Lodovico Lisini died in 1950, leaving the estate to his daughter Elina. At a time when the mezzadria system was coming to an end and agriculture was falling into disuse, Elina took a different approach: she invested, planted new vineyards and transformed the family home into a proper winery. In 1967, she was one of the 24 founders of the Brunello Consortium. She served as its president for many years. Until her death in 2009, it was the quiet, tenacious Elina Lisini who built the reputation of this estate – and of a wine that Giulio Gambelli, Italy's most legendary wine taster, helped to shape. The estate is situated in southern Montalcino between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin, 300 to 350 metres above sea level and characterised by the warm Maremma breezes. 2021 was a year of extraordinary harmony: a warm, balanced summer, cool nights lasting well into September, consistent ripening and precise tannins.

In 1978, the first bottle of Brunello from Casanova di Neri found its way onto the market – then still called "Vino Rosso dai Vigneti di Brunello", five years after the first harvest. Giovanni Neri had found his dream and his son Giacomo began to realise it. The white label was there from the very beginning – and still is today. The Brunello White Label comes from specially designated vineyards around Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino – the same vineyards from which the estate has been making its Brunello for over four decades. After a cool, slow spring, 2021 brought a balancing, dry summer and even ripening into September.

Pianrosso: the red field. The name refers to iron-rich soils that give the Sangiovese a mineral depth that no winery in the world can replicate. 11.7 hectares on the south-eastern edge of Montalcino, at altitudes between 240 and 360 metres, where ancient marine deposits meet galestro schist. Giuseppe Bianchini had the vineyard replanted in the 1980s, knowing that the heart of the estate lay dormant here. Pianrosso is bottled only in exceptional vintages, following a rigorous selection of the finest grapes, and spends a whole year longer in Slavonian botti than the classic Brunello. Thirty-six months in large oak, followed by further ageing in the bottle. The result is not a wine for immediate enjoyment, but a testament to patience. In 2021, Montalcino produced one of those vintages you never forget: glorious September days, cool nights, perfect phenolic ripeness.

On the estate stands a 19th-century railway station – silent, frozen in time, no longer in use. The wine produced here has something of this image about it: it does not rush; it waits. And the 2021 vintage arrived quietly anyway – no record-breaking summer, no headlines, just a cool spring, moderate heat and day-night temperature fluctuations that gave the Sangiovese exactly what it needs: space to mature. Tenuta Pian delle Vigne lies six kilometres south-west of Montalcino, on calcareous loam with a fine gravel content, facing south-west, at around 130 metres above sea level. Owned by Antinori since 1995 – and ever since then unwaveringly committed to the same principle: large wooden casks ranging from 30 to 80 hectolitres, which preserve the Sangiovese fruit rather than dominate it. No barrique dictates, no trendy embellishments. Just conviction.

Castelnuovo dell'Abate lies in the south-easternmost corner of the Denominazione – further away from the cool northern slopes of Montalcino, and closer to Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano that moderates the climate of the area. When Gabriele Mastrojanni bought the Poderi Loreto and San Pio estates in 1975, there was hardly anyone here. The land was barren, the soils low in clay but rich in sandstone, tuff and pebbles. That was precisely the reason. Today, Andrea Machetti, as CEO, and Oenologist Maurizio Castelli continue to run the estate in the spirit of its founder – with a consistency that knows no compromise: no herbicides, no chemical interventions whatsoever since November 2022, fermentation in concrete tanks with wild yeasts, and extended ageing in large Allier oak barrels ranging from 16 to 54 hectolitres. The Brunello is crafted from a blend of different plots – varying exposures, altitudes between 180 and 420 metres, and vines of different ages – and derives its complexity from this.