Brunello 2021 & Riserva 2020

The Lilium Soldera blooms in the botanical garden of Case Basse. A variety that was named after its founder because when it first bloomed, the grower thought of the flavour of a wine that had given him an unforgettable moment. No coincidence: Gianfranco Soldera was never just a winegrower. He was a botanist, a naturalist, a visionary – one who believed that wine in its purest form is a reflection of the entire biodiversity of a place. The bees, the flowers, the insects, the soil: All part of a single system that ultimately culminates in a bottle.

In 51 years of Il Marroneto, it has only happened three times. 2004, 2013 and now again with the 2020 vintage: a single barrel – botte number 18 – refused to follow the usual rhythm and demanded more time, more attention, more of everything. Alessandro Mori calls it "a monster" – not in the sense of brutality, but of wilfulness. A wine that refused to submit. "Fermentation with wild yeasts, without temperature control, was exceptionally slow and gradual." The wine matured for a total of 58 months in Botte no. 18. 16 months more than the regular Madonna delle Grazie. "Wine is not perfect," says Alessandro. "It becomes perfect with time. That's how it finds its true balance."

The vines cover two hectares directly below the small chapel that gave the wine its name. This is the steepest, oldest part of the estate, where Alessandro Mori heard the bells over the vines as a child. If there is a wine that is to become his legacy, then it must come from here. Brunello Madonna delle Grazie does not appear every year. There was none in 2002 and 2014 – the grapes were not good enough. This decision costs money, but Alessandro Mori has never acted on it. What distinguishes the Madonna from all other Brunellos in the appellation – even from its own basic Brunello – is the vinification. While the classic Il Marroneto is born with fermentation temperatures of up to 40°C and intensive extraction, the Madonna follows the opposite path: two days of rest after the harvest, then cool fermentation at 28°C for three to four weeks. The extraction is gentle, almost tender – more of an infusion than a maceration, closer to Pinot Noir than to classic Sangiovese. Then matured for 40 months in neutral vats.