Wines from Tuscany

Le Baròncole – the little manors. The name refers to the feudal division of this land in the Middle Ages, to landowners who were small enough to be forgotten, but large enough to leave their mark on the landscape. Today, Le Baròncole is the name of the finest Chianti Classico from San Giusto a Rentennano – a Riserva produced only in years when the terroir warrants it. The estate overlooks the upper Arbia Valley at an altitude of 270 metres. The soils are diverse – sand, clay, limestone and mineral-rich deposits – and characterised by a microclimate that experiences marked temperature fluctuations between day and night. In such locations, Sangiovese ripens differently to elsewhere: more slowly, with greater tension, and with a freshness not found in the Maremma or the lower Chianti region. 97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo, hand-harvested in September when the Martini di Cigalas grapes are at their best. Aged for 16 to 20 months in large oak casks and French barriques, depending on the vintage, followed by a further six months' bottle ageing.

In 1975 – two years after Riecine's first Chianti Classico – John Dunkley decided that some vintages and some grapes deserved more than the usual treatment. The Riserva was born. Since then, it has only been produced when the selection allows: the finest vineyards, the oldest vines, and two stages of selection – in the vineyard and on the sorting table – before the grapes enter the cellar. The vines used for the Riserva are between 25 and 45 years old. After selection, the must is transferred to unglazed Nomblot concrete vats. There, the must is initially kept cool with dry ice for four to five days before spontaneous fermentation begins – slowly, in a natural way. After fermentation, the wine spends a further ten days on the skins, with the cap submerged. Then comes the centrepiece: the entire Riserva production is decanted into a single large oak cask from Grenier. Untoasted – no toasty aromas, no vanilla, no foreign character. Just the neutral, 'breathing' structure of the wood. 22 months. Then back into concrete tanks for natural stabilisation and clarification. Finally, three months in bottle.

The story begins with a drunkard and Shakespeare. When a staggering night owl once accosted Sting – "How beautiful is the moon?" – the musician replied with a line from Sonnet 130: "My mistress's eyes are nothing like the sun." The man was satisfied and disappeared into the darkness. From this nocturnal encounter, a song emerged in 1987 dedicated to all moon-lovers – "for the lunatics everywhere, for all those whose sanity is dependent on the phases of the moon." That this particular wine should become Il Palagio's flagship seems only logical: the estate's first great Super Tuscan, too, unfurls its magic in the twilight between day and night. Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend in equal parts – Tuscan tradition meets international elegance, without either side dominating. The biodynamically cultivated vines on the hills of Figline Valdarno provide the foundation; fifteen to eighteen months in new French barriques lend depth and refinement.

A Gran Selezione is strictly defined in the production regulations: only grapes from the estate's own vineyards, a minimum of 30 months' ageing, and a more rigorous assessment by the Consorzio's commission than for any Riserva. At Vecchie Terre di Montefili, this requirement begins right from the selection process in the cellar: Every year, Serena Gusmeri selects from the best plots of the 12.5-hectare estate those barrels which, when combined, yield a better result than any single vineyard on its own – an approach that is rarely pursued so consistently in Panzano. The grapes grow at altitudes of between 480 and 550 metres on Galestro and Alberese soils with limestone and clay inclusions, which give the Sangiovese its structure long before the wine even enters the cellar. There, following spontaneous fermentation, the wine matures in large, used wooden barrels for considerably longer than the production regulations require; as is the case throughout the estate, barriques are not used.

It was almost a silent revolution when Michele Satta decided to set the stage for Sangiovese in Bolgheri. While all around him his illustrious neighbours – sassicaia, Ornellaia, Guado al Tasso – were dancing the international Bordeaux party, the non-conformist from Varese dared to do the unthinkable: he planted the pure Tuscan soul in an appellation that was supposed to breathe French elegance. Cavaliere – the knight – does not bear this name by chance. It is Michele Satta's personal crusade for the grape variety that he reveres as "Tuscany's emblem of elegance and nobility". Today, he is the only producer in Bolgheri who takes on this challenge with the same passion as the international varieties.

Vintages write wine history – and 2021 is deeply engraved in Montalcino. Extreme drought, intense sunshine, nights that remained cool despite everything: The Sangiovese vines responded with concentrated, aromatically dense grapes that yielded little but showed a clear signature. For La Quinta, the wine from Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres above the Castello di Sant'Angelo in Colle, this meant an emphatic vintage. The vinification follows the tried and tested rhythm: 7 days of fermentation in steel, 13 days of maceration, then a year of ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay, before the wine is left to rest in cement and finally matures for at least 6 months in the bottle.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a remarkable feat: an elegant Vermentino that brings together terroir, grape variety and winemaking methods with rare depth. The grapes come from organically farmed plots at a coastal altitude – consistently well-ventilated, yet characterised by intense sunshine and a significant day-night temperature difference. The combination of sea breezes and chalky soils results in a white wine of impressive substance.

Those who sow elegance must negotiate with the climate. The weather in 2022 was a tough negotiator in Montalcino: persistent drought, periods of heat, hardly any rainfall in the crucial summer months. The wines that emerged from this year are characterised by this – concentrated, structured, deep in fruit, with tannins that will need time. La Quinta originated, as always, from the fifth vineyard of Podere Giodo at an altitude of 400 metres – medium-gravel soils, south-easterly exposure, pure Sangiovese. Fermentation in steel for 7 days, maceration for 13 days. The 12-month wood ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and the characteristic Cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay remains the stylistic backbone of the wine – an ageing process that integrates textures rather than imposing wood.

The grapes for Istine's iconic Riserva come exclusively from the estate's own vineyards: Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole). Only 4,000 bottles of this breathtaking wine, which is aged for 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, are bottled each year. A rich, luminous ruby red with a sparkling core. The bouquet displays its complexity with aristocratic restraint. A compact and fresh, fruity nose of ripe cherries and ripe raspberries, with Amarena cherries and hints of tobacco in the background. Medium-bodied on the palate, yet with infinite, captivating depth just waiting to be discovered. It then spreads beautifully across the palate, appearing almost juicy and fruit-driven, and continues to open up towards its terrific finalwith crisp cherries and a subtle hint of salt. Purists will love its linear and unmistakable Sangiovese character. SUPERIORE.DE

Difficult vintages make honest wines. 2023 presented Tuscany with unusual challenges: a cool, rainy spring with peronospora pressure, hail damage in parts of the region, followed by a hot summer. In Montalcino, the favourable protective effect of Monte Amiata and the altitude came together in a positive way: Where the conditions were right, wines of surprising lightness and floral freshness were produced – less powerful than last year's vintage, but with a grace that becomes a strength in good hands. Carla Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres also yielded single-varietal Sangiovese in 2023, which was vinified according to a tried-and-tested method: 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration, 12 months of ageing in tonneaux, oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounding off in cement, 6 months in the bottle. A rhythm that allows the wine to tell the story of the vintage – without correcting it.

26 generations, since 1385 – no other estate in the world of wine can boast such an unbroken history. And yet the Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva label is not a museum piece, but a living testament: since the 2011 vintage, produced exclusively from the vineyards of Tenuta Tignanello, the estate nestled between the Greve and Pesa river valleys, which has shaped 20th-century Tuscan wine history more than any other patch of land in Chianti Classico. 319 hectares, of which 165 hectares are under vine – predominantly Sangiovese, supplemented by small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

On the nose, ripe plum, baking spice, menthol and new leather. On the elegantly structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pepper and liquorice accentuate a core of juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry, supported by a backbone of taut, refined tannins. The fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Racy and seductive. SUPERIORE.DE

This rare, artisanal grappa from Felsina is crafted from the finest Sangiovese pomace from the legendary Fontalloro estate. The fresh, carefully selected vinacce are distilled using traditional steam distillation in a discontinuous copper still (Brennhut), a centuries-old art that achieves the highest concentration whilst preserving elegance. Following gentle distillation, the grappa is aged for approximately 10 years in small oak casks, relying on natural decanting without chilling or mechanical filtration. This patient ageing process respects the delicate balances that develop during the long period of rest in the casks. A mark of true mastery.

The name pays tribute to the Butteri, those legendary horsemen of the Maremma who have been the symbol of this region for generations – powerful yet elegant. It refers to the long, tapered ash-wood herding staff with which the Butteri still guide their herds across the plains of the Maremma to this day. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah blend here to create a full-bodied, rich red wine – the Syrah component lends it particular depth without sacrificing the elegance and freshness typical of Rocca di Frassinello.

In April 2021, temperatures in Montalcino dropped below zero. The vines, which had already begun to bud, were hit by the frost. What followed was a season of recovery: a rainy spring gave the vines the strength they needed to withstand a long, hot summer. Significant temperature fluctuations between day and night preserved freshness and aromatic precision. The harvest: concentrated, fragrant, healthy. In Montalcino, 2021 is regarded as a classic, elegant vintage. Not the opulence of 2019, nor the concentration of 2020, but balance. 100% Sangiovese, organically grown, spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels (30 and 54 hectolitres), at least 6 months in bottle.

Michele Satta is one of Italy's greatest ambassadors for the Viognier grape, which he has almost single-handedly brought to this part of the Tuscan coast. His Viognier is sophisticated and seductive, making it the object of desire for wine lovers all over the world. Its inimitable bouquet of apricot and peach exudes an almost cheerful floweriness. Maturation in a combination of cement, oak and amphorae gives this expressive, flavoursome white wine a beautiful note. A dense white wine that spreads softly across the palate with a lovely salty freshness and a long, delicious finish. From the 2024 vintage, it is a 100% Bianco from the Bolgheri DOC. SUPERIORE.DE

The top-quality Vigneto Erchi Riserva comes from the small vineyard of the same name, which has belonged to Fattoria Selvapiana since 1998. The owners spent a long time searching for a vineyard whose terroir impressively demonstrates the complexity of Sangiovese in the Rufina region, making this wine a high-calibre addition to the famous Selvapiana collection.

The road to Sant'Angelo in Colle leads to the south-west side of the Montalcino hill. Here lies the Tenuta Il Poggione – one of the oldest and most reliable houses in the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi, a Florentine landowner, bought the estate at the end of the 19th century after, it is said, hearing about the beauty of these hills from a shepherd. He was one of the first to market Brunello under this name and one of the founders of the consortium. Today, the fourth generation – leopoldo and Livia Franceschi – run the estate with 140 hectares of vines, the oldest vines up to 60 years old and a philosophy that has not fundamentally changed in a century.

Since the 2018 vintage, a small amount of Merlot has been vinified separately at Rampolla, named after the mother Donna Liù. The unfiltered wine was matured for 12 months in terracotta amphorae and fermented to almost 0 g/l residual sugar. Very elegant, fresh nose of sour cherry, laurel and cassis. Fresh on the palate and without the sometimes exuberant opulence of some other Tuscan Merlots, with a precise cherry fruit and salty-minty component. A finely chiselled Merlot that is hard to beat in terms of freshness, clarity and personality. It bridges the gap wonderfully between the Chianti Classico and the two flagships of the house, Sammarco and d'Alceo. Needs a few more years in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE