Wines from Tuscany

Vintages write wine history – and 2021 is deeply engraved in Montalcino. Extreme drought, intense sunshine, nights that remained cool despite everything: The Sangiovese vines responded with concentrated, aromatically dense grapes that yielded little but showed a clear signature. For La Quinta, the wine from Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres above the Castello di Sant'Angelo in Colle, this meant an emphatic vintage. The vinification follows the tried and tested rhythm: 7 days of fermentation in steel, 13 days of maceration, then a year of ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay, before the wine is left to rest in cement and finally matures for at least 6 months in the bottle.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a remarkable feat: an elegant Vermentino that brings together terroir, grape variety and vinification methods with rare depth. The grapes come from organically farmed plots at a coastal altitude – consistently well-ventilated, yet characterised by intense sunshine and a significant day-night temperature difference. The combination of sea breezes and limestone soils produces a white wine of impressive substance.

Those who sow elegance must negotiate with the climate. The weather in 2022 was a tough negotiator in Montalcino: persistent drought, periods of heat, hardly any rainfall in the crucial summer months. The wines that emerged from this year are characterised by this – concentrated, structured, deep in fruit, with tannins that will need time. La Quinta originated, as always, from the fifth vineyard of Podere Giodo at an altitude of 400 metres – medium-gravel soils, south-easterly exposure, pure Sangiovese. Fermentation in steel for 7 days, maceration for 13 days. The 12-month wood ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and the characteristic Cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay remains the stylistic backbone of the wine – an ageing process that integrates textures rather than imposing wood.

Difficult vintages make honest wines. 2023 presented Tuscany with unusual challenges: a cool, rainy spring with peronospora pressure, hail damage in parts of the region, followed by a hot summer. In Montalcino, the favourable protective effect of Monte Amiata and the altitude came together in a positive way: Where the conditions were right, wines of surprising lightness and floral freshness were produced – less powerful than last year's vintage, but with a grace that becomes a strength in good hands. Carla Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres also yielded single-varietal Sangiovese in 2023, which was vinified according to a tried-and-tested method: 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration, 12 months of ageing in tonneaux, oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounding off in cement, 6 months in the bottle. A rhythm that allows the wine to tell the story of the vintage – without correcting it.

26 generations, since 1385 – no other winery in the wine world can boast such an uninterrupted history. And yet the Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva label is not a museum, but a living commitment: since the 2011 vintage, exclusively from the vineyards of Tenuta Tignanello, the estate between the Greve and Pesa river valleys that has shaped the Tuscan wine history of the 20th century more than any other part of Chianti Classico. 319 hectares, of which 165 hectares are planted with vines – predominantly Sangiovese, supplemented by small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

On the nose, ripe plum, baking spice, menthol and new leather. On the elegantly structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pepper and liquorice accentuate a core of juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry, supported by a backbone of taut, refined tannins. The fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Racy and seductive. SUPERIORE.DE

The story begins with a drunk and Shakespeare. When a staggering reveller once pestered Sting – "How beautiful is the moon?" –the musician replied with a verse from sonnet 130: "My mistress's eyes are nothing like the sun." The man was satisfied and disappeared into the darkness. This nocturnal encounter gave rise to a song dedicated to all moon addicts in 1987 – "for the lunatics everywhere, for all those whose sanity is dependent on the phases of the moon." It seems only logical that this title of all things should become Il Palagio's flagship: the winery's first great Supertuscan also unfolds its magic in the twilight between day and night. Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon merge in equal parts – tuscan tradition meets international elegance without one side dominating. The biodynamically cultivated vines on the hills of Figline Valdarno provide the foundation; fifteen to eighteen months in new French barriques lend depth and polish.

In April 2021, temperatures in Montalcino dropped below zero. The vines, which had already begun to bud, were hit by the frost. What followed was a season of recovery: a rainy spring gave the vines the strength they needed to withstand a long, hot summer. Significant temperature fluctuations between day and night preserved freshness and aromatic precision. The harvest: concentrated, fragrant, healthy. In Montalcino, 2021 is regarded as a classic, elegant vintage. Not the opulence of 2019, nor the concentration of 2020, but balance. 100% Sangiovese, organically grown, spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels (30 and 54 hectolitres), at least 6 months in bottle.

Michele Satta is one of Italy's greatest ambassadors for the Viognier grape, which he has almost single-handedly brought to this part of the Tuscan coast. His Viognier is sophisticated and seductive, making it the object of desire for wine lovers all over the world. Its inimitable bouquet of apricot and peach exudes an almost cheerful floweriness. Maturation in a combination of cement, oak and amphorae gives this expressive, flavoursome white wine a beautiful note. A dense white wine that spreads softly across the palate with a lovely salty freshness and a long, delicious finish. From the 2024 vintage, it is a 100% Bianco from the Bolgheri DOC. SUPERIORE.DE

The top-quality Vigneto Erchi Riserva comes from the small vineyard of the same name, which has belonged to Fattoria Selvapiana since 1998. The owners spent a long time searching for a vineyard whose terroir impressively demonstrates the complexity of Sangiovese in the Rufina region, making this wine a high-calibre addition to the famous Selvapiana collection.

The road to Sant'Angelo in Colle leads to the south-west side of the Montalcino hill. Here lies the Tenuta Il Poggione – one of the oldest and most reliable houses in the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi, a Florentine landowner, bought the estate at the end of the 19th century after, it is said, hearing about the beauty of these hills from a shepherd. He was one of the first to market Brunello under this name and one of the founders of the consortium. Today, the fourth generation – leopoldo and Livia Franceschi – run the estate with 140 hectares of vines, the oldest vines up to 60 years old and a philosophy that has not fundamentally changed in a century.

Since the 2018 vintage, a small amount of Merlot has been vinified separately at Rampolla, named after the mother Donna Liù. The unfiltered wine was matured for 12 months in terracotta amphorae and fermented to almost 0 g/l residual sugar. Very elegant, fresh nose of sour cherry, laurel and cassis. Fresh on the palate and without the sometimes exuberant opulence of some other Tuscan Merlots, with a precise cherry fruit and salty-minty component. A finely chiselled Merlot that is hard to beat in terms of freshness, clarity and personality. It bridges the gap wonderfully between the Chianti Classico and the two flagships of the house, Sammarco and d'Alceo. Needs a few more years in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

The often underrated Madre is an elegant yet juicy cuvée of Sangiovese and barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark and luscious on the palate, it captures many of the best qualities of the house's established style. Black cherries, raspberry jam, plums, graphite, smoke, lavender, liquorice and dark spices envelop the palate in an effortless, juicy red wine that is a real insider's tip after some aeration. SUPERIORE.DE

Petit Verdot is a grape variety that the world is wary of. In Bordeaux, it is used to add flavour – a few per cent, hardly more. As a stand-alone, pure variety, taking centre stage: hardly anyone dares to do that. Tua Rita took the plunge for the first time in 2017. 60% Petit Verdot from young vineyards on heavily clay-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere, 40% Merlot from 35-year-old vines. "Esuberante e maturo", as the winery itself puts it. A duet of exuberance and maturity. The Petit Verdot comes from vineyards planted in 2011 – young, but in a location that needs no introduction: iron-rich clay, mineral depth, sea breezes from the Piombino Channel. The Merlot comes from the old plots that have defined the estate's reputation for decades. Hand-harvested, fermented in wooden tanks, then aged for 18 months in French and American oak barriques – the wood acting as a dialogue, not a monologue.

In the 12th century, a man named Ugolforte led the rebellion of the citizens of Montalcino against the superior power of Siena. A bandit for some, a freedom fighter for others – his name has survived the centuries in the stories told in the hills. Today it is on the label of a Brunello that carries this indomitable spirit. Tenuta San Giorgio is located in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the south-east of Montalcino, just a few kilometres from the thousand-year-old Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Founded in 1982 – in the same year that Grattamacco bottled its first vintage – the winery joined the ColleMassari group of the Tipa-Bertarelli family in 2016. Since then, it has shared the terroir with the legendary Poggio di Sotto: the same slopes, the same winds, the same philosophy. 28 hectares of Sangiovese on south-eastern slopes between 300 and 450 metres, embedded in 110 hectares of forest, which protects biodiversity and shapes the microclimate. The soils read like a geological poem: clay, galestro, tuff, red earth, white biancane, the proud Calanchi – and Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano, watches over everything.

Strong dark ruby colour. Pepper and spice accents, aromas of ripe red and dark fruit and a slightly animal note characterise the precise aroma. The perfect balance between tannin, silky elements and acidity guarantee a full-bodied flavour full of character. SUPERIORE.DE

Away from the dominance of Sangiovese in the Conca d'Oro, Giovanni Manetti shows the international side of Fontodi with this single-varietal Syrah. The hand-picked Syrah grapes grow in the south-facing single vineyards Case Via and Pecile around Villa Pecile, where the calcareous-clay soils and the Mediterranean microclimate with pronounced day-night temperature fluctuations prove to be ideal for the Rhône grape variety. After three weeks of spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, the organically certified wine matures for twelve months in French barriques from Troncais and Allier.

Fanti's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 is delicately flavoured, haunting floral and seductive from the first swirl of the glass. A hint of icing sugar gives way to bright cherries, candied oranges, mint leaves and lavender, creating an extrovert yet delicious picture. In the mouth, it is seamless and silky, with a subtle hint of citrus and vibrant acids introducing ripe red notes of black berries with herbs. Rounded tannins emerge on the finish with hints of liquorice and violets. As always, very well made. SUPERIORE.DE