Wines from Tuscany

A name rises: Vallenuova, previously the estate's entry-level Chianti, will become a Riserva with the 2023 vintage. The vineyard, which surrounds the winery like a natural amphitheatre, bears the place name – still the official address of Tolaini in Castelnuovo Berardenga. What has changed is the time: instead of ten months, the Riserva now matures for much longer in a triad of Tuscan, Slavonian and Austrian oak before resting in the bottle for another few months. The base is now also clearly defined: 100% Sangiovese from silty-clayey soils with limestone and stones. Double selection – by hand in the vineyard, visually in the cellar – 20 days of maceration on the skins, temperature-controlled fermentation.

At Podere le Ripi, the grapes for the Rosso di Montalcino are given more time in the cellar than elsewhere, making the wine more similar to a Brunello than a Rosso. Deep ruby red in colour with orange reflections. A captivating symphony of aromas on the nose, ranging from cherry, strawberry and violet to fresh balsamic herbs. On the palate, an impressive, broad structure, beautifully interwoven primary and secondary flavours, a fine minerality and a remarkably long finish. The longer ageing period really pays off! SUPERIORE.DE

Two names characterise this Riserva: Il Corno and Poggio Selvale. The Sangiovese grapes from which Castello di Radda creates its classic Riserva style come from these two top vineyards, situated between 350 and 450 metres above sea level. The clayey-calcareous soils with their high proportion of Galestro and Alberese – the characteristic limestone slate of the region – give the wine mineral depth and structural complexity. In this coolest zone of the Chianti Classico, where dense forests surround the vineyards and the temperature fluctuations between day and night are particularly pronounced, the Sangiovese reveals its most elegant side. After manual harvesting, the grapes are destemmed and fermented in 50-hectolitre stainless steel tanks. Maceration on the skins lasts three to four weeks – a luxury that only fully ripe grapes from top vineyards allow. Malolactic fermentation takes place in wood before the wine begins its 20-month maturation: in French second and third passage tonneaux and in 20-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels. A nine-month bottle maturation completes the development.

Trebianco is a golden yellow "natural/orange wine" made from Chardonnay, Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano and matured in clay barrels. The initially reductive bouquet has hints of sweet tobacco, nutmeg, leather, honey, orange peel and spicy herbs. Fresh on the palate with vibrant acidity. Note: The wine is unsulphurised, unfiltered and fascinatingly special. An oxidative note and lees in the wine do not represent a lack of quality. SUPERIORE.DE

1968 – three years before Sassicaia changed the world – san Felice created Vigorello: the first Chianti Classico wine produced without the white grape varieties that were mandatory at the time, made exclusively from red varieties. A quiet revolution that instilled in the estate a sense of what was possible, which continues to shape its identity to this day. An expression of this identity is the Vitiarium, a research project spanning over twenty years dedicated to the rediscovery and preservation of indigenous Tuscan grape varieties. One of these is the Pugnitello: its name means ‘little fist’, referring to the compact, fist-shaped bunches. Almost extinct, preserved by San Felice, it is now an integral part of the Borgo. Sangiovese and Pugnitello, grown on medium-heavy calcareous-marly soils near the medieval Borgo, are vinified separately in stainless steel and only come together during ageing: twelve months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Le Potazzine: this is the name given in Montalcino dialect to the little tits that flutter through the vineyards. It was the pet name given by a grandmother to her lively granddaughters: Viola and Sofia. Today, together with their mother Gigliola Giannetti, the two run one of the most purist wineries in the appellation. The vines grow at an altitude of 450 to 530 metres – sites that were once considered too cool and are now considered a blessing. This Sangiovese is the youthful entry: pure stainless steel ageing, twelve months, no oak, just the grape.

Very rarely do even the traditionalists relax their strict rules. Fuligni, synonymous with classic Brunello di Montalcino for over a century, has taken a step with this rosato that surprises and enchants – and enchants. Only around a thousand bottles of this Sangiovese rosé are produced, which grows on the north-eastern slopes of Montalcino, where the family has cultivated its vineyards since the beginning of the 20th century. Maria Flora Fuligni, who has managed the estate with philosophical calm since 1971, was guided by the joy of experimentation. The vinification follows the classic Rosato method: short maceration, gentle pressing, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel.

A Bolgheri Rosso with a distinctive character and a clear sense of origin: the vines used for this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grow on calcareous, well-drained soils near Castagneto Carducci. A deep ruby colour with violet highlights. Ripe cherry, blackberry, Mediterranean herbs and a hint of cedar characterise the bouquet. Powerful on the palate, with dense fruit, well-integrated acidity and finely textured tannins. The finish is long, spicy and underpinned by mineral freshness. A young Bolgheri Rosso with character, approachability and remarkable depth. Be sure to let it breathe. SUPERIORE.DE

San Filippo is located in the east of Montalcino – the part of the region known for its particular elegance and longevity. Roberto Giannelli, who acquired the winery in 2003 and has consistently favoured organic cultivation and minimal wood intervention ever since, has developed a style with Oenologist Paolo Caciorgna that shows Sangiovese Grosso in its purest form. Lo Scorno is the opening to the first movement – accessible, direct and full of character.

After the difficult 2023, 2024 presented a different challenge: rainy spring, dry midsummer, then eight days of rain in September just before the harvest. Not a vintage for comfort. Siro Pacenti – with his clearly defined plots, old vines in the Pelagrilli clay loam and the determined craftsmanship of Giancarlo Pacenti – selected more than usual this year in order to preserve what is typical.

Uccelliera's Rosso di Montalcino slowly comes to life with a beguiling blend of mentholated herbs, pine shavings and dried strawberries. It glides over the palate with a texture of pure silk, caressing everything it touches with ripe red fruits and rosy flowers accompanied by a lively acidity. Structured, powerful and long on the final – as always, it far exceeds its weight class and is a top-class Rosso di Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

"The Beautiful Threshing Floor". The name evokes the old threshing floor where grain was dried and threshed: a down-to-earth, rural term for a place that has taken on a ganz andere Klang in the modern world of wine. Tenuta Bell’Aja is situated in Bolgheri, in the Località Le Sondraie, near the famous avenue of cypress trees which Giosuè Carducci immortalised in his 1874 poem “Davanti San Guido”. The poet saw his childhood here; San Felice saw a terroir here that was to become his third great playground. The soil of Bolgheri is different from that of Castelnuovo Berardenga: sandy loam, brooding, well-drained – no galestro, no limestone, but rather the alluvial deposits of a coastal climate that lend Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon a suppleness that heavy soils simply do not allow.

In the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this characterful cuvée is the result of the Antinori brothers' ambitious project. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the places where wild boar burrow in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, supplemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is an intense purple-red colour with violet reflections.

Bolgheri Rosso 2023 conveys a powerful image with Mediterranean gravitas. The grapes come from the windy slopes between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri – an ancient region that Grattamacco characterised in 1977 as one of the first important addresses alongside Sassicaia. Brilliant ruby colour with a sparkling rim in the glass. The nose opens with dark fruits such as sour cherry and plum, along with delicately bitter-sweet spices, leather notes and a hint of Mediterranean herbs. Velvety and full-bodied on the palate, with juicy fruit, subtle tobacco notes and a lively, fresh acidity. Fine-grained tannins provide tension and respectable length. The mineral-influenced, gripping finish bears the unmistakable signature of the Bolgheri coast. A cleverly crafted, very inviting red wine with beautiful fidelity to its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

"Palistorti" means "crooked stakes" in Italian - and the name is no coincidence. At the beginning of their winemaking career, Laura and Moreno found many limestone boulders in the vineyards, which caused the freshly driven stakes to become crooked and crooked when planted. And that's how this exciting second wine got its name, the estate owners reveal in conversation.

Exciting, balsamic, white cuvée from Vermentino, Trebbiano and Malvasia - with a handful of Traminer and Riesling. Initially reductive on the nose, then dark yellow fruit, some smoke. Very direct, straightforward and grippingly mineral on the palate, with crisp acidity, citrus zest and fine juicy yellow fruit. Lingers on the palate for a long time and, with its race and alpine freshness, makes you briefly forget that this linear and very concise white wine comes from Tuscany. SUPERIORE.DE

1977 – two years after Sassicaia – pier Mario Melini became only the second person ever to plant vines in Bolgheri. What looked like sheer obstinacy at the time is now known as Grattamacco. The estate lies on one of the appellation’s few hills, 100 to 200 metres above sea level, on quartz-rich sandstone, white clay and calcareous marl flysch – —soils that counter the Mediterranean climate with a continental freshness. The Bolgheri Rosso 2024 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and a hint of Petit Verdot – vinified in stainless steel, then aged for six months in neutral barriques. The damp spring and hot summer of 2024 were broken by refreshing rainfall in early August: a classic, slow ripening process that gave the wine both freshness and structure in equal measure.

This exceptional Cabernet is dedicated to one of the Mazzei family's most illustrious ancestors: Philip Mazzei (1730-1816), a visionary thinker, American patriot and viticultural pioneer who, together with Thomas Jefferson, founded viticulture in Virginia. As a close friend of Jefferson, Mazzei inspired the famous doctrine "All men are created equal" in the American Declaration of Independence. Philip combines the quintessence of Tuscany from two renowned estates: Cabernet Sauvignon from Castello di Fonterutoli in Chianti Classico and from Tenuta Belguardo in Maremma. This unique fusion of different terroirs creates aromatic complexity and depth – the limestone soils of Fonterutoli lend minerality and elegance, while the sandstone soils of the Maremma contribute structure and vigour.

Six kilometres southwest of Montalcino, on calcareous clay soil at an altitude of around 130 metres, lies the Tenuta Pian delle Vigne – has been owned by the Marchesi Antinori since 1995 and has been their personal interpretation of one of Tuscany's biggest names ever since. The 2023 vintage came with a wet spring and a warm, dry summer – a season that demanded patience and rewarded fruit. Harvested from 11 September, by hand, healthy and aromatic. Pure Sangiovese, fermented in stainless steel, matured for twelve months in large wooden barrels: this is intentional, not a compromise. The wine should remain fresh, mineral and easy to drink. And it succeeds very well.

For Casanova di Neri, Rosso di Montalcino is not a by-product of Brunello – it is a task in its own right. The grapes come from specially designated vineyards around the Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino, on soils that receive the same care as the Brunello parcels. Manual harvesting, hand-picking, optical sorter – respect for the material begins in the vineyard. In 2023, Montalcino enjoyed a long, even summer after a mild winter with little rainfall. The bouquet is expressive and floral – small red fruits, tobacco, sweet spices. Spontaneous fermentation in conical steel tanks without added sugar, 18 days of maceration, then 12 months of maturation in wood. A Rosso that knows its place in the programme – and fills it with conviction.

This exceptional Chianti Classico comes from the golden basin of the Conca d'Oro near Panzano and bears the pioneering achievements of the di Napoli family. As early as 1975, Alceo di Napoli was one of the first in the Chianti region to venture into planting Cabernet Sauvignon – a vision that was to revolutionise the traditional Sangiovese profile and is now part of Castello dei Rampolla's DNA. The grapes thrive on 42 hectares of limestone-rich soil at an altitude of around 360 metres, where Sangiovese (90%) blends with small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create a harmonious cuvée. The estate has consistently followed biodynamic principles since 1994 – long before they became a trend. The vineyards are home to a living ecosystem: flowers and herbs grow unhindered between the rows of vines, naturally oxygenated water nourishes the vines, and only copper, sulphur and bee propolis are used to protect the vines.

Le Macchiole is the home of single-varietal wines. Messorio, the pure Merlot. Paleo Rosso, the pure Cabernet Franc. Lo Scrio, the pure Syrah. Three radical choices, three wines that demonstrate what a single grape variety can achieve in Bolgheri. The Bolgheri Rosso takes the exact opposite approach – and is no less compelling. Since 2004, Cinzia Merli, widow of the founder Eugenio Campolmi, has been producing this wine from the estate’s young vineyards: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah – all four combined in a blend that draws on the classic Bolgheri tradition of the ‘Bordolese taglio’ whilst adding its own distinctive character. Hand-harvested, 15 days’ maceration in stainless steel, followed by ten months’ ageing in 70 per cent used barriques and 30 per cent cement tanks. The younger plots lend the wine that fresh, approachable energy which Le Macchiole describes as the estate’s ‘calling card’.