Wines from Sicily

Frappato is not really a soloist. Its most famous role is as a duet partner in Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, where it lends the Nero d'Avola lightness and floral notes. Tasca d'Almerita wondered what would happen if he were taken out of this duet – and grown as a single varietal at the Regaleali winery, far from his home around Vittoria. A research project designed to show: can Frappato, on its own, deliver what it usually only displays when blended? The answer is growing in the Viale delle Noci vineyard, 1.7 hectares, planted in 2017, on deep, loamy soil with a balanced sand-to-clay ratio and a slight limestone content – soil that keeps the vines in balance without encouraging them to become too lush. 460 metres, south-west facing, long Guyot pruning. The vinification follows a clear concept: fermentation in stainless steel at 20°C for 10 days, deliberately omitting malolactic fermentation – to preserve the variety’s natural freshness and vibrancy. Matured in stainless steel, no oak.

Zisola is the Tuscan dream of the Mazzei family in the south of Sicily. The winery's bestseller is made from 100% Nero d'Avola from traditional Alberello vines near Noto, where chalky soils and proximity to the sea balance the natural exuberance of this indigenous grape variety with freshness and elegance. The Marchesi Mazzei, one of Italy's most historic winegrowing families with over 600 years of tradition, have been continuing their Sicilian project since 2003. 24 hectares of vineyards surround the historic bagli of the 50-hectare tenuta with a view of the baroque UNESCO World Heritage Site of Noto. Hand-picked and fermented for 14-16 days at 26-28°C, the wine matures for 10 months in French oak barrels (33% new).

In the gently rolling hills of Contessa Entellina in western Sicily, where Mediterranean winds meet calcareous clay soils, a Chardonnay with an unmistakable island character is produced year after year: La Fuga. The vines grow at medium altitudes of between 200 and 600 metres, benefiting from significant temperature differences between day and night, and develop an expressive range of aromas – a far cry from the opulent style of many international examples of the variety.

A white wine with its own signature: Valcanzjria combines Carricante – the noble grape variety of Etna – with the Mediterranean charm of Chardonnay and Albanello. The grapes grow in Val Canzeria near Chiaramonte Gulfi on calcareous soils at an altitude of around 400 metres. The interplay of altitude, cool nights and loamy substrates ensures freshness, tension and aromatic depth. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a greenish tinge. The aroma is delicate and complex: white flowers, yellow apple, lime zest, a hint of almonds and fine herbs. On the palate, Valcanzjria is straightforward, dry and precise – with lively acidity, salty minerality and a subtle creaminess that comes from ageing on fine lees in stainless steel. A balanced, modern white wine with a regional profile and invigorating freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

At the heart of the north-eastern Etna amphitheatre, where Silvia Maestrelli's vision turned to stone, lies Fessina: a name that sounds like a whisper through the volcanic winds. Here, in the Frazione Rovittello of Castiglione di Sicilia, between two ancient lava flows from 1809 and 1911, a dream came true in 2007. Silvia, the pioneer – a Tuscan with a Milanese soul and a Sicilian heart – was the first woman on the volcano to recognise the extraordinary potential of this difficult, masculine earth. With the tenacity of a visionary and the sensitivity of a "female oenological vision", she created a refuge of excellence after long negotiations with the countless owners of the fragmented plots.

The Lupo line from COS bears an animal in its name that in Sicily symbolises wildness, independence and the unspoilt nature of the island. The Nero di Lupo is the "black of the wolf". The Rosa di Lupo is its lighter, lighter counterpart – a rosato made from 100% Nero d'Avola, from the same terroir: Vittoria, south-eastern Sicily, 230 metres, sandy soil with limestone subsoil and silicon veins, biodynamically cultivated. 15-year-old vines, Guyot, 5,000 vines per hectare, hand-picked in September. Vinification follows the consistent COS philosophy: spontaneous fermentation on the skins in the press, a few hours of skin contact for colour and depth of aroma without tannin weight. Then seven months in concrete vats. Natural yeasts, no added sulphur.

Between the lava flows of Rovittello, a wine is created that reveals the delicate side of the volcano. Erse Rosato, made predominantly from Nerello Cappuccio and a smaller proportion of Nerello Mascalese from the only hectare of vineyards exposed to the north-east at an altitude of 700 metres. Here, where the morning breeze blows up from the Alcantara Valley and the afternoon heat is kept at bay by the ancient sciare, a rosato of exceptional personality develops. The two Nerello varieties are vinified separately with a cold maceration of 12 hours at 12-14°C to gently extract colour and aromas before being combined for alcoholic fermentation and subsequent refinement in stainless steel tanks.

Nero di Lupo is COS’s elegant take on Nero d’Avola – , interpreted as light, fruity and mineral. The vines are rooted in red, calcareous loam soils, interspersed with sandy deposits and layers of silicate that have shaped the character of Vittoria over thousands of years. At an altitude of around 230–300 metres, these soils bring freshness and vibrancy to the wine – a clearly defined reflection of the terroir.

Erse Etna Rosso has a lively and spicy bouquet of sour cherries, dried roses, cloves and a hint of fresh mint. Round and juicy on the palate, yet pure, with mineral red berries that saturate, while the lively acidity retains a fantastic freshness. A subtle coating of fine tannins and a saline note define the final as it tapers gently and grippingly under a hint of red flowers. Wonderful value. SUPERIORE.DE

Floramundi combines the sensual power of Nero d'Avola with the elegance of Frappato – a classic Cerasuolo di Vittoria that charmingly harmonises the DOCG origin, freshness and finesse. The vines grow in south-east Sicily on red sand and limestone soils around Vittoria. Maturation in stainless steel tanks followed by ageing in the bottle preserves the freshness and aromatic expressiveness of this traditional appellation.

An exceptionally characterful and powerful Cerasuolo di Vittoria made from equal parts Frappato and Nero d'Avola. On the nose, it displays a pure bouquet of sweet violets, black cherries and hints of wet stone. It impresses with its silky texture, enveloping the palate with bright red and blue fruits, along with a refreshing wave of juicy acidity. Hints of spiced orange and inner flowers linger long into the well-structured, long final. Perfect at the table. SUPERIORE.DE

Nero d'Avola and Nocera in a classic cuvée, matured for 12 months in 25hl tonneaux – planetas Mamertino comes from the clay and limestone hills of Baronia in the province of Messina. The traditional DOC area goes back to a Roman designation and was already recognised as a wine of distinction by Pliny the Elder. A dense ruby red colour with a violet hue in the glass. The bouquet is full of character and brooding: dark cherries, blackberries and preserved plums meet herbs, balsamic notes, leather and a hint of tobacco. Powerful on the palate, with ripe tannins, dark fruit and a spicy, mineral backbone. The Nocera grape brings freshness and structure, while the Nero d'Avola provides fullness and density. The long, balanced finish clearly reveals the origin and ageing process. An independent red wine from the north-east of the island that combines history and modern elegance in a very exciting way. SUPERIORE.DE

The Rosato from the Alta Mora range is made from old Nerello Mascalese vines growing on slopes between 600 and 800 metres above sea level on the northern flanks of Mount Etna. The sparse, volcanic soils, characterised by lava rock and mineral ash, lend the wine a tension typical of its terroir and a delicate, salty depth. The grapes are harvested early and pressed immediately to preserve their freshness and finesse. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel.

Diego and Alberto Cusumano had a dream that took many years to realise. The family, the third generation of one of Sicily's most important wine houses, searched for years for the right piece of Etna – and found it in Castiglione di Sicilia in 2013. On the northern slope of the volcano, in districts such as Verzella, Feudo di Mezzo, Guardiola and Solicchiata, at an altitude of 800 metres, in black, mineral-rich lava soils. Alta Mora – high and black – is not just a name. It is a description of the place. 100% Nerello Mascalese, hand-picked in October. Mash fermentation lasts twelve days in steel, followed by six months in large 25 hectolitre oak barrels. An accessible entry into the Alta Mora portfolio – and a clear statement: the Nerello Mascalese at these altitudes needs no staging.

Vigna di Gabri is a classic, sophisticated white wine that elegantly embodies the concept of an elegant, indigenous Sicilian wine. It is based on Ansonica (Inzolia), complemented by smaller proportions of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Catarratto – a finely balanced cuvée that reflects both its provenance and style. The grapes come from the hills of Contessa Entellina, where limestone-rich soils and high altitudes ensure freshness and aromatic complexity.

Here is one of the finest expressions of the white Carricante grape variety, aged on its fine lees for six months. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock rich in minerals and ash. The cool, high altitude, combined with intense sunshine and significant day-night temperature variations, imbues this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and a briny edge. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to ensure that the purity of the grape variety and the terroir is conveyed unadulterated in the glass.

According to tradition, the River Dirillo, near the Dorilli estate, is said to be the legendary landing place of Aeneas on his odyssey from Troy. Whether this is true cannot be proven. What can be proven, however, is that this area, situated between the southern coast and the Iblean Mountains, has an extraordinary history of wine-growing. Dorilli is the quintessence of Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico – the highest tier of this unique Sicilian DOCG. Planeta produces it from carefully selected vines at the estate of the same name in Acate: 70% Nero d'Avola, 30% Frappato di Vittoria, grown on the characteristic loose red sand with a layer of tuff that defines the terroir of Vittoria from within. Organically farmed according to the SOStain protocol.

Profound and yet accessible: Cygnus presents itself as an artfully composed liaison between Sicilian passion and international elegance. The cuvée – made from around 60% Nero d'Avola, supplemented by approx. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon – tells the story of two characters: the spirited autochthonous grape variety and the structurally clear, international grape. The name refers to a charming anecdote from the family: in 1881, Richard Wagner devoted himself to swan motifs during a garden stay at Villa Tasca in Palermo, while he was completing the third act of his opera Parsifal – a historical event that appropriately honours Cygnus.

The Inghams came to Sicily in pairs. Benjamin first – in 1806, with the instinct of an entrepreneur. Then, in 1819, his uncle Joseph followed: not to inherit, but to help, to build, to expand. Together they created a trading empire that Marsala shipped all over the world with their fleet. Pellegrino remembers them both – "BIP" for Benjamin, "Uncle Joseph" for the uncle who came when he was needed. And the wine? An outsider among the Marsala types – and that's exactly what makes it interesting. 100% Nero d'Avola, from loamy soils in the Trapesi countryside around Mazara del Vallo, harvested in the second decade of September when fully ripe. Cold maceration, then fermentation stopped with an acquavite matured in oak for at least five years – the depth begins here. 24 months of ageing in French Allier oak barrels give the Rubino structure and that velvety texture that makes Nero d'Avola so unmistakable.