Wines from Sicily

The Inghams came to Sicily in pairs. Benjamin first – in 1806, with the instinct of an entrepreneur. Then, in 1819, his uncle Joseph followed: not to inherit, but to help, to build, to expand. Together they created a trading empire that Marsala shipped all over the world with their fleet. Pellegrino remembers them both – "BIP" for Benjamin, "Uncle Joseph" for the uncle who came when he was needed. And the wine? An outsider among the Marsala types – and that's exactly what makes it interesting. 100% Nero d'Avola, from loamy soils in the Trapesi countryside around Mazara del Vallo, harvested in the second decade of September when fully ripe. Cold maceration, then fermentation stopped with an acquavite matured in oak for at least five years – the depth begins here. 24 months of ageing in French Allier oak barrels give the Rubino structure and that velvety texture that makes Nero d'Avola so unmistakable.

Rami is an attractive and at the same time very individual blend of Grecanico and Inzolia. Bright golden yellow in colour with a slight, typical cloudiness of an orange wine and an initially restrained, reductive bouquet, with some aeration then sweetly scented with apricots, dried flowers and orange peel. This intellectual white needs time and a certain amount of experience with natural wines - with the necessary amount of oxygen, it is highly appetising and elegant on the palate. SUPERIORE.DE

This is one of the most interesting and expressive wines to come out of the Vittoria area of Sicily. The Frappato is tangy and sharp, linear and direct. And it reveals more depth and nuances than you would expect in this price range. Normally, a good Frappato always has an authentic and transparent expression. This unmasked openness is also present here, but there is also an almost accidental hint of balsamic herbs and bitter almonds, which lend it further tension and personality. It's a good thing that Titta Cilia and Giusto Occhipinti leave nothing to chance, and so this finesse-rich Frappato is rightly one of the region's most distinctive wines every year. SUPERIORE.DE

When you start afresh on Etna, you don't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct small crater Montedolce on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision with which he grew up: cool nights, strong temperature amplitudes, mineral-rich lava sand soils, constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new sites – stands for the estate's younger Carricante vines, cultivated as Alberello in a north-north-easterly exposure. They represent a different tone to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and accessibility that makes the terroir of Montedolce immediately recognisable. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Then five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

100% Carricante from one of the youngest and most promising cru sites on the northern Etna slope: Contrada Taccione is located around 700 metres above sea level in Castiglione di Sicilia, characterised by volcanic sand, basalt rock and millennia-old ash. It is a landscape in motion, shaped by lava, wind and time. It is precisely this tension between barrenness and energy that Planeta translates here into a wine that seems to be made for quiet tones.

Tripudium is a single-varietal Nero d'Avola from classic vineyards around Trapani, from broodinglimestone and clay soils with a light sea breeze – a terroir that gives this wine balance, tension and minerality. The name, inspired by an intoxicating celebration, is a reference to the untamed vitality of Nero d'Avola, which presents itself here as a powerful yet highly charming greatness. The summer of 2020 in Sicily was an interesting balancing act between summer heat and evening freshness, with the grapes ripening with clear depth and lively structure.

A Nero d'Avola with juice and vigour: Nerojbleo comes from the high altitudes of the Iblei mountains around Chiaramonte Gulfi. The vines are rooted there in calcareous clay soils at an altitude of around 450 metres. The temperate microclimate and careful organic cultivation characterise a wine with structure, freshness and a distinct identity. The wine is matured for around 12 months in used barriques and tonneaux. Dark ruby colour with a purple core in the glass. Black cherry, ripe plum, liquorice and a hint of Mediterranean scrub on the nose. On the palate, the Nerojbleo is juicy and harmonious, with well-integrated acidity, fine-grained tannins and supple fruit. The subtle hint of wood adds depth without masking the varietal character. A multi-layered and complex Nero d'Avola with both power and elegance – ideal with grilled meat, savoury pasta dishes or mature cheese. SUPERIORE.DE

Three thousand years of winegrowing history are condensed into one street name: Strada Provinciale 68 near Vittoria, the route along which generations of Sicilian farmers carried their amphorae and later barrels to market. Arianna Occhipinti, a pioneer of Sicilian natural wine, has created a liquid monument to this country road. Albanello and Zibibbo, two indigenous islanders, grow here on red sand over limestone. The grapes ferment together with wild yeasts in concrete, and two weeks of maceration give the Bianco its characteristic texture. Bottled unfiltered, it retains its lively cloudiness.

Donnafugata – a name that epitomises the poetry of Sicilian wine. The fact that the Rallo family also produces outstanding olive oil at their Tenuta di Contessa Entellina is less well known, but no less remarkable. The Milleanni combines four autochthonous olive varieties from the Valle del Belice: Nocellara del Belice, Biancolilla, Cerasuola and the rare Pidicuddara – a quartet that combines the aromatic diversity of western Sicily in one cuvée.

A volcanic masterpiece from Sicily’s latest wine revolution: since 2023, Etna winemakers have been permitted for the first time to indicate their specific Contrada on the label – a historic innovation that pays tribute to the region’s centuries-old understanding of terroir. Planeta’s flagship wine from the Contrada Feudo di Mezzo embodies this new era with impressive clarity. The Planeta family, Sicilian wine pioneers since 1694, reached the northern slopes of Etna in 2008 and immediately recognised the extraordinary potential of the volcanic soils. In Feudo di Mezzo, situated at an altitude of 610 metres, wines of unique expressiveness are produced on black lava sands and mineral-rich sediments. The winery was built in 2012 on a lava flow dating from 1566. A symbol of the connection between modern winemaking and geological history.

The fruity and characterful Angheli made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon immediately impresses with its opulent colour. The complex, fruity bouquet has accentuated notes of sour cherries, blackberries and small forest fruits, with cocoa, liquorice and cardamom in the background. On the palate, the velvety fullness accompanied by a pleasant freshness and the persistent finish are delightful. SUPERIORE.DE

Three letters, a whole story: BIP stands for "Benjamin Ingham Palermo". The Englishman came to Sicily in 1806 – not as a tourist, but as an entrepreneur with vision. He followed in the footsteps of John Woodhouse, but surpassed him by far: Ingham built up a trading empire that shipped Marsala all over the world and left a lasting mark on the city. Pellegrino still preserves his archive today – 110 volumes of Sicilian economic history. Pellegrino dedicates its elegant Oro Riserva to this man. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, from sandy coastal soils between Marsala and Petrosino. The fermentation is stopped with an acquavite aged in oak for at least five years – a detail that stacks depth upon depth. Then: more than 48 months in large oak barrels, a further six months in barriques. The 2013 is a wine that has clearly benefited from time.

SP68 Rosso is perhaps Arianna Occhipinti's most direct expression of soil, grape variety and philosophy. Frappato and Nero d'Avola come from organically cultivated plots on calcareous and sandy soils at an altitude of 280 to 290 metres. Fermented with natural yeasts in concrete, matured for six months in cement tanks, bottled unfiltered – no intervention, no make-up, pure essence.

The farmers of Menfi call it "Burdisi". This is no nod to France – it is dialect. Burdese is the Sicilian pronunciation of “Bordolese”, and it reveals just how naturally Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc have become part of this landscape in south-west Sicily. Not as imported goods, but as part of the local vocabulary. Planeta has adopted the name – and turned it into one of the island’s most distinctive red wines. The vines are planted at the Dispensa estate near Menfi, at altitudes of up to 430 metres, in brooding, calcareous soils of medium texture. A site that provides the Cabernets with the necessary coolness to retain their aromatic precision. Limited quantity, selected plots, harvested in mid-to-late September. Aged in wood for a wine made for long ageing.

Delicate, elegant Nerello Mascalese with fine aromas of red fruits and raspberries, enveloped in a pleasant citrus freshness. As the wine progresses, it develops a smoky note associated with the strong lava rock component that characterises the volcanic soil of Etna. Lively, harmonious and full of flavour on the palate – a resolutely versatile wine that goes perfectly with a variety of fish dishes, shellfish and white meat. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come from the historic centrepiece of the Planeta estate in Ulmo near Sambuca di Sicilia – a vineyard that was planted back in the mid-1980s. The vines are rooted at an altitude of around 250 metres in loamy-sandy soils with a high lime content, not far from Lake Arancio. Deep ruby red in the glass with a purple rim. The nose opens powerfully and invitingly: black cherry, plum, cassis and blueberry, accompanied by cocoa, tobacco, fresh leather and a subtle herbal spice. On the palate, Sito dell'Ulmo is both full-bodied and elegant: dense, with polished tannins, fresh acidity and a long, silky finish. The integration of the wood is finely balanced and the fruit always remains in the foreground. A Sicilian Merlot with format, origin and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Maroccoli, around four hundred metres above sea level near Sambuca di Sicilia – where limestone with sandy layers forms the foundation and cool night air from the sea provides finesse, while the days are flooded with Sicilian sunshine. Diego Planeta recognised early on that Syrah on this island could be more than just an international variety: a hymn to the Mediterranean light, dry heat and barren soil that forces the vine to fight. The microfauna here is extremely active, the vines have to conquer their water – and produce grapes of exceptional ripeness and concentration.

When the Mazzei family discovered their love for Sicily a good twenty years ago and founded the Zisola winery near Noto, the old olive groves were part of the gift. At around 130 metres above sea level, in the giardini of the estate, four Sicilian varieties grow: Moresca, Ogliarola Messinese, Nocellara Etnea and Biancolilla – a quartet that captures the character of the island. The result is an oil of a rich golden-green colour with the unmistakable temperament of Sicily: aromas of ripe olive and sun-ripened tomato, full-bodied and round on the palate, with a subtle spiciness and a gently sweet finish. A triumph of flavours and aromas that preserves the warmth of the south in every bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Light ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of wild strawberry and delicate hints of black cherry, cinnamon and nutmeg. The corresponding, fresh flavour and subtle elegance lead to a harmonious and energetic finish. SUPERIORE.DE

700 to 800 metres above sea level, in the Piana degli Albanesi south of Palermo – where Sicily stops being what you expect it to be. Tenuta Ficuzza is located in the heart of an extensive nature reserve, with forests, Mediterranean scrub and vineyards woven into the landscape like a mosaic. Chardonnay has found a home here that makes it reminiscent of Burgundy – without copying it. Jalé comes from the historic single vineyard "del Ventaglio", named after its fan shape. The altitude creates temperature fluctuations that Chardonnay rarely gets on this island: slow ripening, cool fruit, natural tension. Hand-picked at the beginning of August, cold maceration, fermentation in old Liters oak barrels – no new wood to cover up, but silent integration. Six months sur lies, then bottled.

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

A multi-faceted introduction to the world of Benanti wines – this Etna Rosso reflects the polyphony of the volcano. The grapes come from altitudes between 450 and 900 metres, distributed on all sides of Mount Etna. The soil is barren and volcanic-sandy, rich in minerals and perfectly aerated – conditions that enable finesse, freshness and crystalline structure. 80% Nerello Mascalese/20% Nerello Cappuccio. The Nerello Mascalese matures predominantly in stainless steel, with only around 20% in used oak barrels, while the Nerello Cappuccio remains entirely in stainless steel tanks. Both varieties ferment with Benanti's experimental, indigenous yeasts for several weeks at a controlled temperature, followed by blending and further ageing in the bottle.