Wines from Sicily

Three thousand years of wine-growing history are encapsulated in a single road name: the Strada Provinciale 68 near Vittoria, the route along which generations of Sicilian farmers carried their amphorae – and later their barrels – to market. Arianna Occhipinti, a pioneer of Sicilian natural wine, has created a liquid tribute to this country road. Albanello and Zibibbo, two indigenous Sicilian varieties, grow here on red sand over limestone. The grapes ferment together with wild yeasts in concrete vats; two weeks' maceration give the Bianco its characteristic texture. Bottled unfiltered, it retains its lively cloudiness.

A multi-faceted introduction to the world of Benanti wines – this Etna Rosso reflects the polyphony of the volcano. The grapes come from altitudes between 450 and 900 metres, distributed on all sides of Mount Etna. The soil is barren and volcanic-sandy, rich in minerals and perfectly aerated – conditions that enable finesse, freshness and crystalline structure. 80% Nerello Mascalese/20% Nerello Cappuccio. The Nerello Mascalese matures predominantly in stainless steel, with only around 20% in used oak barrels, while the Nerello Cappuccio remains entirely in stainless steel tanks. Both varieties ferment with Benanti's experimental, indigenous yeasts for several weeks at a controlled temperature, followed by blending and further ageing in the bottle.

SP68 Rosso is perhaps Arianna Occhipinti's most direct expression of terroir, grape variety and philosophy. The Frappato and Nero d'Avola grapes come from organically farmed plots on calcareous and sandy soils at an altitude of 280 to 290 metres. Fermented with natural yeasts in concrete, aged for six months in cement tanks, and bottled unfiltered – no intervention, no embellishment, pure essence.

Bastonaca. This is not just any plot of land in Vittoria. This is the starting point. When Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano brought in their first harvest on 5 October 1980 and filled 1,470 bottles, they were standing right here. Bastonaca is the place of origin of COS – and the 25-year-old Nero d'Avola vines from this vineyard are the basis of Pithos Rosso. When Occhipinti visited Georgia in 1999 and learnt about the Qvevri tradition of terracotta vinification, the first amphorae arrived from Spain in 2000. The wooden barrel disappeared from the cellar. The amphora took over. 150 clay jugs, one of the largest collections of its kind. The Pithos Rosso is the red soul of this project: Nero d'Avola on Pliocene sandy soil, 230 metres, spontaneous fermentation on the skins with natural yeasts in the amphora, maturation in clay jars and in the bottle.

The Rosato was born in 2007 – because Marco de Grazia’s three-year-old daughter, Elena, insisted on it. There was a red wine, there was a white. Why not one in pink too? The winery was already painted pink. All that was missing was the wine. De Grazia, who had not planned to make a Rosato until then, set to work. The result is no frivolous summer wine, even if it is often enjoyed in summer. De Grazia’s stated ideal for his Rosato is: "il corpo di un bianco e l’anima di un rosso". And he adds: "gioioso senza essere frivolo; tensione senza essere austero." Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from vines aged between 25 and 60 years on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, at altitudes of between 600 and 900 metres, on volcanic soils from the estate’s various vineyards.

A Catarratto with character: Beleda comes from organically farmed vineyards near Alcamo, where cool nights and the proximity to the sea give the wine freshness and flavour. The wine is matured for around eight months in stainless steel tanks, with a few months resting on the fine lees – for structure, subtle fullness and elegance. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a silvery-green sheen. The nose opens with white flowers, citrus fruit, green apple and a fine salty note. On the palate, the vintage is lively, balanced and has a pleasantly juicy texture. The fruit remains subtle, the minerality dominates – a Sicilian white wine with a clear style and refreshing drinkability. Ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or young/medium-aged sheep's milk cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE

With Family & Friends, Feudo Maccari reinterprets the concept of a Mediterranean white wine – not as a light side dish, but as a broodingGrillo with a strong character that was born in the Moretti family. The wine was originally only intended for private occasions – a heartfelt project that today celebrates with its name the connection to people and moments that are more than mere consumption. The grapes for it (label: "only the best grapes") come from strictly selected plots around Noto, where chalky soils, salt winds and intense sunlight characterise the aroma and structure. A complex, vibrant wine with structure and balance.

The grapes for the Sul Vulcano Rosato come from the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Nerello Mascalese thrives on volcanic soils in a cool, high-altitude climate. The grapes are harvested early, gently pressed and matured exclusively in stainless steel tanks to emphasise the freshness and finesse of the variety. Pale pink in the glass with a salmon-coloured shimmer – stylish and precise. The nose smells of white cherry, wild strawberry, some citrus and a fine hint of wild herbs and flint. Straightforward, cool and silky on the palate with clear fruit, gripping freshness and minerality. The volcanic origin is evident in the salty depth, which lingers for a long time. A sophisticated rosato with a cool alpine profile and subtle energy – ideal with refined seafood dishes, grilled vegetables or sophisticated summer cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

This single-varietal Carricante from Tenuta Tascante comes from the districts of Feudo in Castiglione di Sicilia and Salice in Milo. The vineyards grow at an altitude of 600 metres on the north side of Mount Etna on volcanic sedimentary soils from different eras. The majority of the grapes grow on a terrace in Contrada Sciaranuova. Vinified in cool stainless steel, this white wine retains the mineral clarity and sulphurous notes of the indigenous grape variety. Linear and vertical, it presents itself with the characteristic acidity of Carricante, showing volcanic vigour in elegant purity. An authentic Etna character with four months of ageing on the lees that brings the aura of the volcano directly into the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Carricante from Planeta's Etna vineyard is an exceptional wine full of freshness, energy and minerality. This noble grape variety thrives in exclusive conditions, on volcanic soils and at altitudes of 870 metres. A wonderfully complex pleasure that is only ever released for sale two years after the harvest. The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. SUPERIORE.DE

From the volcanic island of Pantelleria, where the wind dictates the rules: Here, the olive trees grow on terraces of black lava rock, pruned low to defy the relentless gusts. The Biancolilla – one of the oldest olive varieties in Sicily – finds its most poetic expression in this barren landscape between Africa and Europe. The olives are harvested by hand directly from the tree, early in the second decade of October, when the polyphenol content reaches its maximum. Immediate cold pressing and gramolatura in a controlled atmosphere preserve the exceptional fineness.

From wine to oil, from west to east: Donnafugata has been cultivating olive groves on the northern slope of Mount Etna since 2016 – where volcanic soils and extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night produce olives of particular intensity. The Nocellara Etnea is the defining variety of this region: large-fruited, juicy, with a favourable ratio of flesh to stone. For this single-variety oil, the olives are harvested by hand in the second half of November and immediately cold-pressed – gramolatura is carried out in a controlled atmosphere to prevent oxidation and preserve the flavours.

This olio comes from old olive groves in south-east Sicily, where the Tonda Iblea variety has been native for generations. After harvesting, it is cold-extracted immediately so that the vibrant flavour and powerful character of the variety remain unchanged in the bottle. There, the oil is a light green colour with a golden shimmer, as if the Sicilian sun is shining once again. The bouquet is fine and clear: green tomato, fresh grass and a subtle herbal flavour reminiscent of lemon thyme and young leaves. The flavour is harmonious, with a delicate bitterness, elegant, well-integrated spiciness and a juicy, green-fruity length.

The Tenuta Capofaro of Tasca is located on the Aeolian Islands off the north-eastern tip of Sicily. The name of this fresh and aromatic Malvasia is dedicated to the former owner Paola Lantieri, who cultivated the 4.5-hectare vineyard with great dedication. The vines grow on mineral soils of ash, fine brown sand, pumice and silicate.

Giardino Pantesco is a liquid mini-break on Pantelleria – golden as the last ray of sunlight at sunset, steeped in the history and terroir of this magical island. The name refers to the "Giardini Panteschi", those centuries-old circular dry-stone walls that break the wind and stabilise the microclimate for crops such as the gnarled Zibibbo vine. Anyone savouring this Passito will feel a sense of reverence for this landscape and tradition with every sip.

In 1984, Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita wanted to celebrate his golden wedding anniversary with his wife Franca by creating a wine that told the family story and the history of the Tenuta at the same time. The uniqueness of the grape composition shows his romantic spirit: Inzolia and Sauvignon from the Tasca selection, the selection of a vineyard in Regaleali that dates back to the end of the First World War. The use of selected yeasts from the estate's own vineyards links this wine even more inextricably with the terroir from which it comes. Fresh in its youth, the wine has an unexpected ageing potential and balances its tertiary aromas with the intensity of the fruit.

The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. It could hardly be more autochthonous: this excellent wine from the Nerello Mascalese grape comes from the hotspot on the east coast of Sicily, from the slopes of Mount Etna. Bright cherry red in colour, a fine aroma of raspberry and blood orange, gripping, taut acidity, silky tannins and a lively elegance with beautiful minerality. Great, long and unique! SUPERIORE.DE

Cottanera's Etna Bianco draws its expressiveness and a certain depth from Carricante grapes, which thrive at an altitude of around 750 metres in the barren, dark volcanic soils on the north side of the volcano. The interplay of high altitude, cool climate and mineral subsoil characterises the tension and freshness of this charismatic white wine. Straw yellow in colour with a silvery sheen. White flowers meet yellow citrus fruits, crisp pears and a hint of wet stone on the nose. Clear and straightforward on the palate with lively acidity, a fine texture and salty minerality that reflects the Etna terroir. A refreshingly purist Etna Bianco that harmoniously combines finesse and depth – ideal with oysters, ceviche or simply as a meditative soloist. SUPERIORE.DE

In the early 2000s, Marco de Grazia, an American wine merchant with Tuscan roots, began systematically buying land on Mount Etna. It wasn’t because the volcano was the talk of the town at the time – it wasn’t. But because de Grazia, who had been importing Sicilian wines into the US since the 1990s, recognised something that many locals had not yet seen: that these soils, these Alberello vines, these altitudes between 600 and 900 metres, possessed something that could not be found anywhere else on the island. Tenuta delle Terre Nere – the Black Earths – was one of the sparks that ignited the Etna phenomenon. The Etna Bianco is the cornerstone of this vision: a blend of four indigenous grape varieties – carricante, Catarratto, Grecanico and Minnella – from several vineyards on the cool northern slope of the volcano, at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres. The soil is black volcanic earth, rich in minerals but low in nutrients – — ideal for vines that need to dig deep. Hand-harvested in early October, cold sedimentation, fermentation at 13 to 15°C in stainless steel tanks.

Wonderful, deep aroma of dark wild cherries, crushed raspberries, pomegranate, roses and peppery herbs. Dense but not heavy on the palate, long and pure with multi-layered subtle fruit flavours. Salty minerals and violet blossom emerge on the finish, along with nuanced tannins that create a classically dry feel on the elegant finish. This wine is already an absolute pleasure to drink, and although it tastes great now, it will continue to refine in the bottle for several years. A sensual and enjoyable wine, 60 per cent Nero d'Avola from oak barrels and 40 per cent Frappato matured in a vitrified cement vat. SUPERIORE.DE

Classic Etna Rosso from Nerello Mascalese with a small proportion of Nerello Cappuccio – grown at an altitude of over 700 metres in various contrade on the northern flank of the volcano, where ash, lava rock and the alpine microclimate form an unmistakable style. Medium ruby red in colour with a garnet-red rim. On the nose, fragrant sour cherry, redcurrant, humming berry, a metallic hint, floral notes and subtle spice. Precise on the palate, with cool fruit, lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. The ageing in used wooden barrels and cement tanks maintains the balance and expression of origin. An authentic, elegant Etna Rosso with good drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Pithos – the ancient Greek word for the terracotta vessels in which wine and oil were stored in antiquity. When Giusto Occhipinti travelled to Georgia in 1999 and discovered the local qvevri tradition, he ordered the first amphorae in 2000. COS thus became one of the first pioneers of amphora vinification in the whole of Italy. Grecanico – the grape variety of the Greeks, brought to Sicily more than 2,500 years ago – grows on red limestone gravel soils near Vittoria, at 250 metres, cultivated biodynamically. Spontaneous fermentation with the skins inLiters, six to seven months, natural yeasts, no added sulphur.