Organic Red Wine

For many years now, at Istine, a small and carefully selected portion of the Sangiovese has been vinified separately according to the vineyard's origin, in order to highlight and bring to life the specific characteristics of the site, the soil and the altitude. Since then, the finest grapes from the estate's own vineyards – Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole) have been vinified separately, resulting in three now highly sought-after cru wines, of which just 3,000 bottles are released each year to specialist retailers and the hospitality sector.

On the southern edge of the Chianti Classico region, where the hills slope gently towards the gates of Siena, lies Vigna Mezzapiaggia – a name that says it all. "Half-slope" is that privileged spot between heaven and earth where Angela Fronti is undertaking a bold experiment: growing Sangiovese at an altitude of just 250–300 metres, a far cry from the usual high altitudes of her estates in Radda and Gaiole. Yet here, in the UGA Vagliagli, she is writing a new chapter in her terroir philosophy. The two hectares of Mezzapiaggia rest on fine lacustrine deposits, the remains of a primeval lake, which lend the Sangiovese a completely different character to that of the stony Galestro soils of the northern slopes. The clay soils retain water and heat, whilst the unique aspect – north-facing at the top, east-facing at the bottom – creates a fascinating microclimate. 5,000 vines per hectare, organically cultivated in accordance with the strict FIVI principles for independent winegrowers.

Here the name becomes the programme: Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg gave this wine its title because it tastes like Manincor itself. The essence of the hills that surround the estate, the view over Lake Kaltern, the strength and warmth of the warmest vineyards in South Tyrol – all come together in this glass. Grapes from Manincor and Panholzerhof, both at 250 metres, south-eastern slopes with sandy clay soils full of limestone gravel and glacial deposits. Lagrein, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon – three grape varieties, one home. Each batch is vinified separately, partly spontaneously with wild yeasts in wooden, concrete and stainless steel vats. Ten days of gentle maceration, only dipped once a day for fine-grained tannins. Matured for twelve months in used wooden barrels of various sizes.

In Campo Rotaliano, this geological treasure trove nestled amongst the peaks of the Dolomites, Elisabetta Foradori has been rewriting the history of Teroldego for four decades. What began in 1960 as a family wine is now the epitome of indigenous excellence. The grapes come from twelve hand-selected plots spanning nine hectares, their roots reaching deep into alluvial sand and dolomite limestone. Fifteen different Teroldego biotypes, developed through years of mass selection, reflect the diversity of this unique terroir. Biodynamic Demeter cultivation, practised since 2002, allows the indigenous grape variety to unfold its original identity. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks, partly using whole bunches, preserves the lively fruitiness. Twelve months' ageing in a combination of concrete and oak vats lends the wine structure without being overpowering.

Aluigi bears a dedication in its name: "a Luigi", for the man who, according to the winery itself, "made our life's project possible". Behind the understated "Gran Selezione" classification lies a personal gesture – the estate's most serious Sangiovese, named after a person rather than a vineyard site or a theme. The grapes come from the most rigorous selection of the oldest vines on a single plot, Vigna Campo ai Peri, south-east-facing at around 440 metres, overlooking the Lamole valley. Here, the schist-and-clay Galestro soil overlying Pietraforte rock has a noticeably higher clay content than in the estate's other vineyards. A single-varietal Sangiovese, organically farmed, with only around 5,000 bottles produced each year.

Angelo Ambrogini was born in Montepulciano in 1454. As a humanist, poet and confidant of Lorenzo de' Medici, he wrote some of the most beautiful stanzas of the Renaissance under the name "Il Poliziano". Le Stanze, his most famous work, is a poem about beauty, transience and the power of the moment. Federico Carletti has named his winery after the great poet. And this wine the title of his masterpiece. This is no coincidence. Le Stanze is Poliziano outside its borders – no Prugnolo Gentile, no DOCG obligation, no looking back. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, certified organic since 2021: a Super Tuscan. The grapes grow on the best plots around Montepulciano, on clay and limestone soils between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Hand-picked, fermentation in stainless steel tanks with a long maceration period of 20 to 25 days, 16 months in French barriques – precise, without exaggeration.

A bold experiment that became a success story: In 2000, Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini ventured into international grape varieties and created Camalaione, a Supertuscan that expresses the special terroir of Panzano in every bottle. This organically certified cuvée of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah and 15% Merlot impressively demonstrates the Orsinis' conviction that the unique interplay of soil and climate can be found in every wine, regardless of the grape variety. The grapes come from the estate's oldest vineyards, where an extreme vine density of 9,000 vines per hectare ensures natural competition and each plant produces no more than 500 grams of grapes. This concentration is also reflected in the exceptional quality of the vintage. Vinification is carried out using traditional methods: spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in Liters oak barrels, which act as small open fermentation vats and allow regular hand pressing. After fermentation, the wine matures for around 24 months in French barriques, followed by at least twelve months of bottle ageing.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

A white gravel track leads to the estate; it is narrow but not difficult to navigate, winding through a dense forest of holm oaks and oaks. In the north of Chianti Classico, near Gaiole in Chianti, lies the Vertine vineyard, guarded for centuries by a castle: three hectares laid out in a fan-shaped pattern on a hill at an altitude of 500 metres, open to the south and south-west. The soil consists of galestro and alberese, rich in stones, forcing the Sangiovese roots to reach deep down. The grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates, followed by a second selection at the sorting table. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks, where the wine remains for 12 months; it is then aged for a further year in the bottle before leaving the estate.

Terracotta is not a trend. It is the oldest wine container known to mankind – older than wood, older than stone, older than any wine culture we know by name. Elena Fucci is not looking forwards, but backwards: to a time when clay and volcanic earth were the same substance – and wine did not yet need a method to explain itself. The amphorae come from Impruneta near Florence, the centre of Tuscan terracotta craftsmanship – 700 Liters, untreated, permeable, breathing. No coating, no control over what happens: That's the point.

Asinone, which has been bottled separately by the estate since 1983 and is one of the very first recognised single-vineyard wines in Tuscany, is situated on the south-south-west-facing slope between Montepulciano and Torrita di Siena. At an altitude of 380 to 400 metres, the soil consists of blue clay of marine origin, interspersed with pebbles and rich in magnesium and iron: a soil that forces the roots to dig deep and compels the Prugnolo Gentile grapes to concentrate their flavours. The vines are between 30 and 50 years old. Small berries, thick skins – plenty of structure in a small space. And Federico Carletti has consistently steered Asinone away from the barrique aesthetic: it matures for 16 to 18 months in French tonneaux, with the wood providing support rather than dominating.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: Monika and Thomas Bär-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti since 1990. The Rubiolo 30 anni is a certified organic homage to three decades of winegrowing in one of the most beautiful terroirs in Tuscany. Made from pure Sangiovese grapes from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine epitomises the synthesis of two exceptional sites. The grapes ripen on soils rich in galestro between 350 and 450 metres above sea level, facing south-west, where the centuries-old dry stone walls – uNESCO World Heritage Site since 2019 – between vines, olive trees and roses create a unique microclimate. After temperature-controlled fermentation with indigenous yeasts and 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for ten months, half in French barriques and half in concrete tanks, followed by three months of bottle ageing.

The structure of Cabernet Sauvignon, the spiciness of Cabernet Franc, the power of Syrah and the softness of Merlot combine here to create a red wine full of character, Mediterranean aromas and elegance. Dark red with a violet edge, fresh fruit bouquet of pomegranate and red currant with balanced hints of thyme, bay leaf and cedar. Initially very fresh and powerful on the palate with memories of raspberry and redcurrant, then round and harmonious, well structured and with soft tannin. SUPERIORE.DE

This impressive red comes from the single vineyard "Vitticciana", which was created by the "Godfather of Carmignano" Ugo Contini Bonacossi especially for a pure Sangiovese wine due to its perfect orientation. It is only produced in the best years, when it presents itself as a multi-layered wine with fine fruit and fine-grained tannins. After a few years of ageing in the bottle, it can easily hold its own with some of the best Brunello di Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

SP68 Rosso is perhaps Arianna Occhipinti's most direct expression of terroir, grape variety and philosophy. The Frappato and Nero d'Avola grapes come from organically farmed plots on limestone and sandy soils at an altitude of 280 to 290 metres. Fermented with natural yeasts in concrete, aged for six months in cement tanks, bottled unfiltered – no intervention, no embellishment, pure essence.

Rich, dark ruby colour with a slight garnet sheen, very dense bouquet, clear, concentrated and inviting, of fine dark chocolate, lots of blackberry, flowers and liquorice. Intense dark berry fruit flavours on the palate, fine-grained tannins, subtle mineral tones. A great, smooth and very characterful Merlot from the Cortona region with a long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Ghiaie della Furba means "pebbles of the Furba stream" and there is a reason for this, as the vines for this wine grow on the river pebbles on the banks of this stream. It is one of the very first "Supertuscans". After an hour in the carafe, this extremely complex red reveals wonderfully clear, dark fruit, blackberries and cassis, as well as coffee notes, dark chocolate and spices. Its very good structure and personality are impressive. It is already very accessible today (with aeration), but still hides its great potential for the next decade. SUPERIORE.DE

Bucine, Valdarno di Sopra – where the Arno meanders through rolling hills between Arezzo and Florence, Fattoria Petrolo lies at an altitude of between 250 and 500 metres. In 1988, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust wanted to create a wine that would convey the true identity of this terroir: the "Château" of Petrolo, a tribute to the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of blending French grape varieties with Sangiovese. As early as 1834, Giorgio Perrin, an agronomist of Swiss origin and owner of Petrolo, reported in the *Giornale Agrario Toscano* as early as 1834 that it was customary in Chianti to blend "uve francesi" with Sangiovese, not to alter the quality, but because the terroir prevails over the grape varieties.

Montebello is a sophisticated blend of Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and Sangiovese. Each grape variety is harvested and fermented separately in open Liters barrels with indigenous yeasts and manual racking. A captivating bouquet of dark cherries and earth, with notes of cinnamon, tar and grilled herbs. The defined tannins are accompanied by a beautiful acid wire. A wine with great character and beautiful structure that changes with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

At the southern foot of the Margreider Schuttkegel is a vineyard with the dialect name "Punggl", which has been known and coveted for viticulture since time immemorial. In the mid-1950s, the former owners of the Hirschprunn estate planted a vineyard there with Merlot, as it had already produced very good results in previous decades. In 1995, the grapes from this vineyard were of such first-class quality that they inspired Luis von Dellemann, the Oenologistresponsible at the time, to vinify these grapes as a single variety - since then, and only in the best years, this strictly selected grape material has formed the basis for the MCM.

Adine slopes steeply southwards, in terraces, over a height of more than 500 metres, below the cellar. The highest terrace is called Punta, and this Sangiovese comes from there; the estate only bottles it in the very best vintages. Beneath the vines lies rock dating from before the Eocene epoch, around 100 million years old: clay-rich limestone, once the seabed, of medium texture, full of stones, deep and loose. It conducts heat well, the light falls perfectly, and the estate regards it as the ideal site for bringing out the elegance, complexity and longevity of the Sangiovese grape. Harvested by hand, fermented in concrete tanks, then aged for 18 months in Austrian oak barrels with a capacity of 2,500 Liters, before being stored for extended bottle ageing. The 2021 vintage was favourable: good rainfall in spring, no water stress in summer, significant temperature variations between day and night in August, and harvesting from the second half of September.

More than a hundred years ago, a white bull named Desiderio lived on the Capezzine farm in Avignonesi. He was the largest bull in Tuscany at the time – and what's more, he is one of the recognised ancestors of the Chianina breed, the noble breed of cattle from which the Bistecca Fiorentina is cut. Anyone enjoying a Florentine-style T-bone steak today is likely to have a little bit of Desiderio's DNA on their plate. It was therefore a natural choice for Avignonesi to name its most powerful red wine after him. The label shows him – and changes with every vintage. The sky, lighting mood and details in the illustration tell of the climate of the year: whether hot or cool, dry or balanced. A quiet commentary on the vintage in pictorial form.

On the Costa degli Etruschi, where the Maestrale blows in from the Tyrrhenian Sea and the waves crash just ten kilometres away, Massimo Piccin has been realising his dream of the perfect Bordeaux blend since 1999. From the modest farmstead in Castagneto Carducci, under his visionary guidance and with the advice of the renowned OenologistCarlo Ferrini, a 40-hectare vineyard has emerged, which today ranks amongst Bolgheri's most respected estates. Volpolo embodies the pure essence of this exceptional site between the municipalities of Castagneto Carducci and Bibbona; the name pays homage to the ancient Tuscan grape variety Volpola and is also an expression of the estate's deep roots in the Bolgheri terroir. This certified organic cuvée, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, thrives on the estate's 27 different soil types – a mosaic of sand, clay, limestone and sea pebbles that owes its mineral richness to the former marshlands. The proximity to the sea provides the vines with the constant ventilation and intense light that allow the Bordeaux varieties to ripen here to unprecedented levels of complexity.

When Ferruccio Ferragamo took over the dilapidated Borgo from the Duke of Savoy-Aosta in 1993, it was more than just a property purchase. It was, as he himself put it, "an act of faith". Thirty years on, the house's flagship wine embodies this spirit in every bottle: a commitment to uncompromising elegance. Its creation was preceded by a meticulous geological study. Each grape variety was planted where the soil best brings out its strengths: Merlot for velvety opulence, Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and depth, Syrah for freshness and aromatic lift. Separate vinification, followed by blending – a blend that bears the hallmark of the Valdarno. The wines mature for eighteen months in French oak – the Merlot partly in larger casks to preserve its fruit, the Cabernet and Syrah in first- and second-use barriques. The result is neither a copy nor a rival to Bolgheri or Chianti, but something entirely unique.