Organic

The quality of Italian white wines has improved significantly over the last 20 years, and this also applies to Verdicchio. There are still quite a few poor, old-fashioned wines out there, but the good ones can be a real revelation. The region around Matelica in particular has made Verdicchio famous, as it is here – and mostly from the higher-altitude vineyards – that the finest examples of this wine are produced: complex, mineral, fresh and long-lasting.

La Spinetta began in 1977 with Moscato. Today, Giorgio Rivetti is one of the most renowned Nebbiolo interpreters of Piedmont wine – more than 30 Tre Bicchieri awards speak for themselves. The Langhe Nebbiolo is the most accessible entry into this universe. The grapes come mainly from the Starderi vineyard in Neive, the cru from which La Spinetta produces one of its most important Barbareschi wines – complemented by selected parcels from Valeirano, Gallina and Campè. No other terroir, no other winemaker. Just a different age of the vines and a more accessible vinification: 14 to 15 days of maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation in used French barriques, then bottle ageing. Certified organic.

In Liguria, the question of whether Pigato and Vermentino are the same grape variety is answered with a Ligurian shoulder movement. Bruna cultivates both, appreciates both and gives each its own space. Vermentino grows in Valle Arroscia on loose, stony soil made from weathered sedimentary rock – lighter and more permeable than the Pigato plots, aromatic earlier, with a characteristic saltiness. 100% Vermentino, hand-picked, gentle pressing, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, short bottle ageing.

On the Costa degli Etruschi, where the Maestrale blows in from the Tyrrhenian Sea and the waves crash just ten kilometres away, Massimo Piccin has been realising his dream of the perfect Bordeaux blend since 1999. Under his visionary hand and the advice of the renowned OenologistCarlo Ferrini, the modest farm in Castagneto Carducci has grown into a 40-hectare vineyard that is now one of Bolgheri's most respected addresses. Volpolo embodies the pure essence of this exceptional location between the municipalities of Castagneto Carducci and Bibbona; the name is a tribute to the ancient Tuscan grape variety Volpola and at the same time an expression of the deep roots in the Bolgheri terroir. This organically certified cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot thrives on the estate's 27 different soil types – a mosaic of sand, clay, limestone and sea pebbles, which owes its mineral richness to the former marshlands. The proximity to the sea provides the vines with the constant ventilation and intense light that allow Bordeaux varieties to mature to unimagined complexity.

The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. It could hardly be more autochthonous: this excellent wine from the Nerello Mascalese grape comes from the hotspot on the east coast of Sicily, from the slopes of Mount Etna. Bright cherry red in colour, a fine aroma of raspberry and blood orange, gripping, taut acidity, silky tannins and a lively elegance with beautiful minerality. Great, long and unique! SUPERIORE.DE

Burdigai is the Ligurian dialect for the shrubs of the Mediterranean maquis – the fragrant, wild vegetation that occupies every free spot in western Liguria that is not cultivated by man. This small, isolated terrace facing west is surrounded by it – and it is here that a grape variety grows that nobody can fully explain. It is alternatively called "Franseise" because it apparently originates from the south of France. Nobody knows who planted the vines. Nobody knows how old they are. Not even the Bruna family knows their exact origin. Nevertheless, the vines have been cultivated and cared for over decades – out of that instinctive respect for old vines that good winegrowers never give up. At some point, the family council decided to press an independent rosé from them.

In the early 2000s, Marco de Grazia, an American wine merchant with Tuscan roots, began systematically buying land on Mount Etna. It wasn’t because the volcano was the talk of the town at the time – it wasn’t. But because de Grazia, who had been importing Sicilian wines into the US since the 1990s, recognised something that many locals had not yet seen: that these soils, these Alberello vines, these altitudes between 600 and 900 metres, possessed something that could not be found anywhere else on the island. Tenuta delle Terre Nere – the Black Earths – was one of the sparks that ignited the Etna phenomenon. The Etna Bianco is the cornerstone of this vision: a blend of four indigenous grape varieties – carricante, Catarratto, Grecanico and Minnella – from several vineyards on the cool northern slope of the volcano, at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres. The soil is black volcanic earth, rich in minerals but low in nutrients – — ideal for vines that need to dig deep. Hand-harvested in early October, cold sedimentation, fermentation at 13 to 15°C in stainless steel tanks.

The name reveals the location, the location reveals the wine. Banditella – a vineyard on the southern slope of the Sant'Angelo hill, 250 to 300 metres above the Orcia Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. Col d'Orcia planted Sangiovese clones here in 1998, which were selected over ten years of research in collaboration with the University of Florence – not just any clones, but those that most accurately express the terroir of Montalcino. Biodynamically farmed, limestone soils with little clay, full southern sun: the conditions could hardly be better. The 2022 vintage demanded decisiveness: temperature fluctuations and late summer rains called for an early, forward-looking harvest at the beginning of September. The grapes were placed in shallow, wide steel tanks – a design that favours gentle extraction – where they macerated at 25°C, accompanied by daily pumping over and délestage. Twelve months in Allier barriques and tonneaux followed before the wine was bottled.

Wonderful, deep aroma of dark wild cherries, crushed raspberries, pomegranate, roses and peppery herbs. Dense but not heavy on the palate, long and pure with multi-layered subtle fruit flavours. Salty minerals and violet blossom emerge on the finish, along with nuanced tannins that create a classically dry feel on the elegant finish. This wine is already an absolute pleasure to drink, and although it tastes great now, it will continue to refine in the bottle for several years. A sensual and enjoyable wine, 60 per cent Nero d'Avola from oak barrels and 40 per cent Frappato matured in a vitrified cement vat. SUPERIORE.DE

Balduccio is made up of around 9,000 organically cultivated olive trees, all located on the picturesque Montalbano hills between Florence and Montecatini Terme, and an oil mill that is so popular with local farmers that the most popular dates for pressing between 15 October and 15 November have been fully booked on the waiting list since the summer. This is because Balduccio not only presses its own olives, but also makes its modern technology available to other olive producers. Over the last 20 years, Balduccio has gained recognition and respect as an oil mill among local producers. It is not only the customers who are impressed by the quality. The ambition to produce top-quality oils is also increasingly inspiring other olive growers.

Bucine, Valdarno di Sopra – where the Arno meanders through rolling hills between Arezzo and Florence, Fattoria Petrolo lies at an altitude of between 250 and 500 metres. In 1988, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust wanted a wine that would convey the true identity of this terroir: Petrolo's "Château", a tribute to the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of blending French grape varieties with Sangiovese. As early as 1834, Giorgio Perrin, an agronomist of Swiss origin and owner of Petrolo, reported in the *Giornale Agrario Toscano* as early as 1834 that it was common practice in Chianti to blend "uve francesi" with Sangiovese, not to alter the quality, but because the terroir takes precedence over the grape varieties.

Pithos – the ancient Greek word for the terracotta vessels in which wine and oil were stored in antiquity. When Giusto Occhipinti travelled to Georgia in 1999 and discovered the local qvevri tradition, he ordered the first amphorae in 2000. COS thus became one of the first pioneers of amphora vinification in the whole of Italy. Grecanico – the grape variety of the Greeks, brought to Sicily more than 2,500 years ago – grows on red limestone gravel soils near Vittoria, at 250 metres, cultivated biodynamically. Spontaneous fermentation with the skins inLiters, six to seven months, natural yeasts, no added sulphur.

Fiumana di Predappio – sangiovese has had its home here since the Middle Ages. The estate's lowest vineyards between 80 and 150 metres provide the grapes for the Federico, named after the family's long-time employee. Fermentation and nine months of ageing take place 70% in stainless steel and 30% in oak wood – enough structure without masking the fruit. Bright ruby red colour. The nose literally leaps out of the glass: fresh cherries, raspberries, a hint of herbs and violets. Lean and juicy on the palate, with fine tannins that invite you to take another sip. A charming Sangiovese that does not make you ponder, but is a pleasure to drink – uncomplicated in the best sense of the word, certified organic and exactly what an everyday wine should be. SUPERIORE.DE

Pergolaia consists mainly of Sangiovese with smaller proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The wine opens with a medium-bodied attack and a bright bouquet characterised by notes of cherry, wild plum, ploughed earth and pressed blue flowers. This very Mediterranean-style red with a strong personality envelops the palate with a delicate, silky intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

Crognolo is a wonderfully balanced wine that offers the tangy freshness and acidity of Sangiovese, which is balanced and softened by the small proportion of Merlot. The wine smells of cherry, blackberry and plum. Its primary intensity is bright and cheerful. The juicy finish shows a nice density, extraction and well-integrated tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

The cellar at Tenuta Meraviglia is situated in a former quarry. This is not a metaphor, but an architectural choice: the architectural practice Studio Tori has created a winery here that is carved into the rock, thereby restoring the landscape rather than detracting from it. Form follows function follows conviction. This philosophy is carried through into the vineyard: 34 hectares in Bolgheri, planted almost exclusively with Cabernet Franc, on volcanic soils.

In the Conca d'Oro, the golden amphitheatre of Panzano, around 400 olive trees per hectare grow alongside the famous Sangiovese vines. Giovanni Manetti, the mastermind behind the legendary Flaccianello della Pieve and president of the Chianti Classico Consortium, applies the same precision to his olive oil as he does to his wines. The cuvée of 80% Correggiolo and 20% Moraiolo is harvested by hand and gently pressed on the same day – freshness and fruitiness are thus fully preserved. Fontodi has not used herbicides or pesticides since it was founded and has been certified organic since 2008.

The name says it all: Badilante honours those workers who, with their spades – the "badili" – for generations to drain and reclaim the marshland of the Maremma. Simone Castelli, son of the legendary OenologistMaurizio, vinifies this single-varietal Sangiovese on the organically farmed Podere 414 vineyard near Scansano. The grapes grow at an altitude of 230 metres in clayey, loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Spontaneous fermentation in cement, 15–18 days maceration with délestage and remontage, followed by maturation partly in cement and partly in wood.

Light, dense ruby colour. A cool Cabernet profile with blue fruit on the nose: Blackberry, blueberry, blackcurrant, plus cedar wood, graphite, laurel and a hint of juniper. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, yet polished: juicy, dark fruit, very fine-grained, ripe tannins and a lively acidity that benefits from the constant coastal wind and the day/night temperature gradient. The spice remains elegantly in the background, the wood is perfectly integrated and supports the texture without masking the freshness. Long, straightforward finish with a salty, mineral flavour. The 2023 shows the sunny side of the Tuscan coast with balance instead of vigour: a precise, modern Maremma Cabernet – accessible in its youth, with reserves for several years. Ideal with grilled beef, lamb chops, savoury mushroom dishes or mature pecorino. SUPERIORE.DE

Maldafrica describes an "inner longing for a distant land" and is not love at first sight, but it is one of Sicily's most interesting wines. It is initially very subtle and nuanced and it opens up gradually on its own timetable, but then: spontaneously fermented in amphorae, Maldafrica overwhelms the senses with dark fruits, spices, chopped herbs, savoury notes, sulphur, leather and damp tobacco. Its mouthfeel is over a minute long and its acidity provides the perfect amount of astringency to refresh the senses for all its opulence. A quiet monument that sets the standard for the entire wine region and leaves a lasting impression for all its longing. SUPERIORE.DE

A name rises: Vallenuova, previously the estate's entry-level Chianti, will become a Riserva with the 2023 vintage. The vineyard, which surrounds the winery like a natural amphitheatre, bears the place name – still the official address of Tolaini in Castelnuovo Berardenga. What has changed is the time: instead of ten months, the Riserva now matures for much longer in a triad of Tuscan, Slavonian and Austrian oak before resting in the bottle for another few months. The base is now also clearly defined: 100% Sangiovese from silty-clayey soils with limestone and stones. Double selection – by hand in the vineyard, visually in the cellar – 20 days of maceration on the skins, temperature-controlled fermentation.

Pietrabianca offers a contrast between richness and freshness and seduces with a blend of white flowers, almond paste, wet stone and crushed red pears. Silky and supple, it caresses the palate with an elegant wave of ripe peach and nectarine. Lingers long, leaving a mineral and acidic tension as notes of candied lime fade. Not only is it stunning today, but it has a bright future. SUPERIORE.DE

One of Piedmont's most enigmatic grape varieties grows in a plot in the centre of the legendary Bricco Boschis: Freisa – nebbiolo's wild relative and, according to DNA studies, possibly even its genetic mother. Its name is derived from the Latin "fresia" for strawberry, which already hints at its aromatic signature. Native to the Piedmont hills since the Middle Ages, it was long considered too rustic – until producers like Cavallotto discovered its true elegance. The 2023 undergoes traditional vinification with indigenous yeasts and 3–5-day skin maceration, followed by 12 months–15 months of ageing in Slavonian oak barrels and six months of bottle ageing.

Two names define this Riserva: Il Corno and Poggio Selvale. It is from these two prime vineyards, situated at altitudes of between 350 and 450 metres, that the Sangiovese grapes come from which Castello di Radda crafts its classic Riserva style. The clay-limestone soils, with their high proportion of galestro and alberese – that characteristic calcareous slate of the region – , lend the wine mineral depth and structural complexity. In this coolest zone of Chianti Classico, where dense forests surround the vineyards and the temperature fluctuations between day and night are particularly pronounced, the Sangiovese reveals its most elegant side. After hand-harvesting, the grapes are destemmed and fermented in 50-hectolitre stainless-steel tanks. Maceration on the skins lasts three to four weeks – a luxury afforded only by fully ripe grapes from prime vineyards. Malolactic fermentation takes place in wood before the wine begins its 20-month ageing process: in second- and third-use French tonneaux and in 20-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels. Nine months’ bottle ageing completes the wine’s development.