Organic

Mal d'Afrika – this is not a romantic play on words. It is a real feeling: that homesickness for Africa that strikes anyone who has spent time in this landscape and cannot let go. In the south-easternmost tip of Sicily, where Vittoria lies between the Ippari and Dirillo rivers, this expression is immediately understood: the colours, the heat, the silence, the earth. COS has dedicated a wine to this feeling. The grape varieties behind it are surprising: Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in equal parts – the most international varieties in the wine world, cultivated by a company that otherwise consistently favours indigenous varieties. The contradiction is resolved in the cellar. COS treats Merlot and Cabernet like Frappato and Nero d'Avola: spontaneous fermentation on the skins in terracotta amphorae, natural yeasts, no added sulphur. Then matured in Slavonian oak barrels. 25-year-old vines on the red Pliocene sandy soils of Contrada Fontane, 230 metres, biodynamically cultivated. 5,000 vines per hectare, hand-picked in September.

Bernardina is a wine with an interesting history. The Bernardina vineyard was once part of a 600-hectare estate belonging to a noble family who did not care much for wine. When the appellation boundaries for Barolo were established, this family never lobbied to become part of the area now registered for the production of Barolo DOCG. Today, the vineyard is managed by the Ceretto family, who have instead focussed on the production of Nebbiolo d'Alba. Nebbiolo d'Alba is an appellation in which the grapes from the Barolo and Barbaresco wine regions have been declassified and which is becoming increasingly popular.

Produced in just 6,000 bottles per vintage, Godenza from the vineyard of the same name undergoes spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by temperature-controlled maceration in stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation, it then matures for 12 months in cement vats and at least 9 months in the bottle. Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, it is characterised by its complex and open bouquet with aromas of small red berries and spices. On the palate, it is firm and clear with a wonderful balance between acidity and ripe flavours and has a very respectable, slightly salty and spicy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come mainly from the historic Russeghine vineyard above the town of Ranzo Borgo. The character of the Pigato here is of particular depth and minerality, which is due to the exceptional terroir and the long maturation on the fine lees. Bright straw yellow in colour with light green reflections. Fragrant nose of herbs, yellow fruit and traces of pine resin. Full and long-lasting flavour with beautiful spiciness and aromas of citrus and almond, then again this beguiling, deep minerality at the end. SUPERIORE.DE

A renowned, single-varietal Fiano from limestone-rich, loamy-sandy soils in the Contrada Dispensa near Menfi. A bright straw-yellow colour with greenish highlights. The bouquet is complex and full of finesse: white flowers, Williams pear, ripe citrus fruit and a hint of exotic notes such as passion fruit and guava, underpinned by a salty, almost chalky nuance. On the palate, it is silky and expansive, with refined fruit, lively acidity and a cool, mineral edge. The texture is creamy yet remains clearly defined, convincingly expressing its terroir.

Ceretto's Langhe Rosso Monsordo is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah with fruit from 11 hectares in the Langa region. It penetrates into areas that Ceretto's master grape, Nebbiolo, never addresses. Monsordo attempts to provide answers to questions that are rarely asked in the Langa, and he answers them with fine extract sweetness and fullness.

Copper-coloured with light brown reflections. The bouquet is floral, sweet and complex. On the palate, its typical Moscato flavours are carried by honey, dried fruit, caramel and a hint of musk. Creamy and dense on the palate with a well-balanced acidity that gives it plenty of freshness. Overall, Aestas Passito is a dessert wine for us that is hard to beat in terms of excitement and speciality and where you can feel the dedication and certain wine craziness with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

Zibibbo is the most aromatic grape variety in Sicily. Its full name is Moscato d'Alessandria – from Alexandria, Egypt, from where it travelled to the Mediterranean for centuries. On Pantelleria, it is known as the soul of the sweet passito. COS turns it into something else: a dry wine, spontaneously fermented on the skins in Liters terracotta amphorae. The vineyards are located in the hinterland of Marsala, at 12 metres above sea level. This is no coincidence – it is part of the programme. The sea is close by, the air is salty, the soil is flat and sandy. Biodynamically cultivated, Guyot training, around 5,000 vines per hectare. Hand-picked in September. Then the amphora: spontaneous fermentation, skin contact, natural yeasts, no intervention.

The Greeks brought Moscato Bianco to Sicily. Biblino, the island's first documented wine from the Syracusan hinterland, is said to be its ancestor. Thousands of years later, Planeta lies in Contrada Buonivini, not far from Noto, at 40 metres above sea level in a landscape of white, limestone-rich soil, almond trees and sea breezes. What the Greeks knew: there is hardly a better place for Moscato. At the end of August, when the berries have reached full ripeness, the grapes are harvested by hand. What follows is the centrepiece: around 40 days of appassimento in fruttaio, in 5-kilogram crates with controlled ventilation. The grapes lose half their weight – and double their essence.

Exciting, balsamic, white cuvée from Vermentino, Trebbiano and Malvasia - with a handful of Traminer and Riesling. Initially reductive on the nose, then dark yellow fruit, some smoke. Very direct, straightforward and grippingly mineral on the palate, with crisp acidity, citrus zest and fine juicy yellow fruit. Lingers on the palate for a long time and, with its race and alpine freshness, makes you briefly forget that this linear and very concise white wine comes from Tuscany. SUPERIORE.DE

Le Rive: the steep slope. In Venetian dialect, this term describes those rugged, 45-degree south-facing slopes where only the bravest winegrowers cultivate their most precious grapes. Since 1992, the Tessari family has been harvesting their most overripe Garganega grapes from ancient vines on a single hectare in the UGA Fittà – only at the end of October, when the first mists of autumn drift over the hills. What happens in these steep rows is natural alchemy: Garganega "surmatura", overripe and concentrated by months of sunshine, develops a golden complexity that few wines in the world can match. 20 days of fermentation in large French oak barrels, 15 months on the lees without a single racking, then a further 12 months of bottle ageing. Patience as a craft.

In 1977 – two years after Sassicaia – Pier Mario Melini became only the second person ever to plant vines in Bolgheri. What seemed like obstinacy at the time is now known as Grattamacco. The estate is situated on one of the appellation's few hills, 100 to 200 metres above sea level, on quartz-rich sandstone, white clay and calcareous marl flysch – soils that counter the Mediterranean climate with a continental freshness. The Bolgheri Rosso 2024 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and a hint of Petit Verdot – vinified in steel, then aged for six months in neutral barriques. The damp spring and hot summer of 2024 were broken by refreshing rainfall in early August: a classic, slow ripening process that endowed the wine with both freshness and structure.

A name that tells stories: Grign is Cavallatto's affectionate abbreviation for Grignolino – the enigmatic grape variety whose name is derived from the Piedmontese "grignole" and means "many seeds". This thin-skinned grape actually has four to seven seeds per berry instead of the usual two, which gives the wine its characteristic tannin structure. Native to the Monferrato hills since the 13th century, Grignolino was once considered as precious as Barolo – until the fashion for heavier wines pushed it into the shadows. This 2024 comes from a parcel in the middle of the Bricco Boschis, which matures for twelve months in stainless steel tanks after a five-day skin maceration with indigenous yeasts. This careful treatment preserves Grignolino's fragile elegance and tames its wild nature to aristocratic finesse.

The same hills, the same family, the same philosophy – what applies to the wine also applies to the oil. Around a thousand olive trees grow on the slopes of Monti in Chianti, mainly Correggiolo with some Moraiolo in between, in mixed cultivation with fruit trees according to old tradition. Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi harvests by hand before the olives are fully ripe – lower yields, but acidity levels below 0.2% and a wealth of polyphenols. The olives are pressed on the day of harvest, under nitrogen, to prevent any oxidation.

Giovanni Manetti's white exotic wine from the legendary Conca d'Oro in Panzano: "È per divertirmi", something for your own pleasure, as the patron of Fontodi likes to say with a grin. While his Sangiovese wines enjoy worldwide fame, one of the most beautiful Tuscan white wine rarities is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the La Rota vineyards. The north-west facing plot has been strategically chosen: Here, the vegetation grows more slowly and the grapes are spared the intense summer heat of Tuscany. This organically certified rarity is produced in only 8,000 bottles per year. After manual harvesting, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, with part of the wine being vinified in amphorae and untoasted barrels. The six-month maturation on the lees in steel tanks preserves the wine's characteristic purity and freshness.

Lamole. Giovanni Manetti has long regarded this zone as one of the most distinctive in Chianti Classico. At an altitude of 620 metres, far from the heart of the region, a few plots of old Sangiovese vines survived the wave of deforestation in the 1970s. Giovanni took cuttings from these Alberello vines from the 1920s to grow his own vines in Panzano: the foundation for Fontodi's quality. This wine is made from seven hectares of Macigno sandstone, whose loose, permeable structure ensures elegance and finesse. Cool nights, long growing season, south-south-west exposure. The sandy soils give the Sangiovese a lightness that is clearly different from the powerful wines from Panzano. Vinification in concrete, certified organic.

Santa Cecilia is Planeta's Nero d'Avola icon – born in the barren, sun-baked cultural landscape of Noto, on white limestone soils that give the variety depth, elegance and saltiness. A dense ruby red colour with a purple core in the glass. The bouquet opens with ripe black cherry, plum and mulberry, flanked by balsamic herbs, black tea, some liquorice and a fine graphite note. Powerful on the palate, but never overpowering: dense, ripe fruit meets a firm tannin structure that is well integrated and lends length. The acidity is precisely set, the finish is long and carried by a salty nuance that reflects the terroir of Contrada Buonivini. An expressive, high-class Nero d'Avola with a profile of origin, character and an ageing process that enhances rather than masks the variety. For Planeta, it has been a reference and expression of a new, confident Sicily for years. SUPERIORE.DE

What is in this glass does not come from separate, less highly regarded plots, but exclusively from grapes classified for the Brunello itself – Rosso di Montalcino is an earlier, more immediate expression of the same noble material, not a separate, lesser category. The same transparency and the same tension that characterise the estate's great wines are found here in a sleeker, more direct form.

Villa di Capezzana has been the Tenuta's flagship since 1925 and is a living testimony to Tuscan wine culture. This Carmignano DOCG epitomises the vision of the Contini Bonacossi family, who for five generations have been cultivating the heritage of a wine estate whose first documented mention dates back to 804. In 1975, Carmignano was the first Tuscan DOC zone ever to officially include Cabernet Sauvignon in the assemblage – centuries before the Super Tuscans discovered this idea for themselves. The tradition goes back to the 16th century, when Caterina de' Medici had Cabernet cuttings brought to Carmignano from Bordeaux.

A captivating Pinot Nero with a poetic expression of the Langhe terroir: strictly selected grapes from organically farmed vineyards are vinified with the utmost care. After manual harvesting and fermentation, the wine matures for 18 months in tonneaux, which give it structure without masking its freshness. The ageing process combines depth with elegant finesse – an art that Vajra has mastered for many years.

On the northern slope of Mount Etna, black is not a mood but the finest "building material": the terraces of the Contrada Santo Spirito near Passopisciaro are laid out in layers of lava stone, at an altitude of 700 metres. Animaetnea is the Etna project run by Antonio Moretti, who also manages the Tuscan estate Tenuta Sette Ponti, and the project's guiding principle is: a wine does not have to be perfect; it must be authentic. The lava soil, altitude and wind have largely kept phylloxera and mildew at bay here; as a result, almost all the vines are grown on their own roots, trained as bush vines. The wine's name evokes the glow of a flowing lava flow. Carricante, blended with Minnella, is fermented at a controlled temperature and aged for only a short time, followed by a few months' bottle ageing.