James Suckling

A little bit of everything, but never too much of a good thing. One of the most complex Nobiles we have ever tasted. Delicate red fruit with a pinch of sweetness and floral aromas, underpinned by a little tobacco and raspberry. Clear cherry flavour on the palate, plus a wonderful spiciness with that subtle sweetness in the background again. A finesse-rich and harmonious final whets the appetite for the next glass. Very successful and full of precision! SUPERIORE.DE

From the Contrada Arcuria in Passopisciaro on the north side of Mount Etna at an altitude of 600-700 metres, this 100% Carricante is vinified partly in cement tanks and partly in large oak barrels. The result is a fresh white wine from old vines with an invigorating citrus scent and notes of mint, rich in tropical fruit, taut and firm, with an elegant mineral note on the palate, with a fine finish and high complexity. 4,000 bottles are bottled per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

The first vintage was released in 2001. A wine that had no history yet, only a conviction: that the Maremma, with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, could express something that Tuscany had not yet heard. Twenty years on, with the 2021 vintage, Brancaia takes stock in silence – and has given this particular release the suffix ‘20 anni’. Over two decades, the vines have driven their roots deep into the sandy loam soil of the Maremma. No artificial water – only what the soil stores in winter and releases in summer. The vines have learnt to cope with the heat. The grapes are becoming more concentrated, the tannins finer, the character more distinctive. This is the promise made in 2001 – and which the 2021 vintage fulfils.

Oro di Caiarossa is a 100% Petit Manseng, the grapes are harvested by hand at the end of October. Dark golden yellow, almost amber-coloured in the glass. Flavours of passion fruit, mango and honey are softened by citrus fruits and floral elements. Subtly sweet on the palate with graceful flavours of candied citrus and tropical fruit. A fine hint of tannin and a reasonable length on the finish. This already fascinating dessert wine has both warmth and freshness and will gain in concentration as it matures. SUPERIORE.DE

With "Capo Martino", Silvio Jermann not only pays tribute to the vineyard of the same name in the municipality of Dolegna del Collio, but also to his father Angelo – and thus to the origins of the family winery. It is a white wine of great cultural depth, a cuvée of indigenous varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, Picolit and Friulano, complemented by smaller proportions of other traditional varieties. The 2022 vintage was characterised by stable weather conditions with plenty of sunshine, which gave the grapes ripeness and expression – but without losing the typical freshness of the hills around Capo Martino. After the harvest, the grapes are destemmed, gently pressed and fermented spontaneously. Maturation takes place for around a year in large wooden barrels on the fine lees, with each component maturing separately before finally being blended into a cuvée. The result is a wine of quiet complexity and timeless elegance.

Monika Bär-Bettschart spent her holidays in Castellina as a young girl. She fell in love with this piece of Tuscany – and later with Thomas. After their marriage, the two acquired Gagliole. A Swiss couple, a Tuscan Podere, a very simple conviction: If you really love a piece of land, you have to farm it. La Valletta in Panzano has also been part of the family since 2011 – ten hectares on the north-western edge of the Conca d'Oro, at 450 to 500 metres, exposed to the south-west, on Pietraforte: that compact, limestone-rich sandstone that does not yield to Sangiovese – and therefore demands the best from it.

The Krafuss Farm dates back to the Renaissance and has remained unchanged to this day. It belongs to Roland Riz, Alois Lageder's father-in-law, and is nestled amongst vineyards and orchards above St. Michael-Eppan – a historic building that bears witness to the economic importance of viticulture in this area as far back as the Middle Ages. The Lageder family has been making wine here for six generations. In 1991, the vineyard was completely recultivated and replanted exclusively with Pinot Nero, using a close-spaced spalliera training system. A decision made without compromise: no other grape varieties, no mixed cultivation, just this one variety on this one hill. In 2013, the vineyard switched to biodynamic cultivation – and since then, sheep have once again been grazing on the outskirts of Eppan, as was customary centuries ago.

A little shy and reserved at first, but after a short time it comes to life and from then on never takes a step back. A beguiling spectacle of spiced orange peel, sour cherry and mint draws you closer to the glass, where notes of cardamom, cinnamon, clove and sage can be found. Initially soft and smooth on the palate, with fleshy red fruits and sweet spices coating the palate. A complex network of minerals and fine tannins slowly settles beneath this soothing blend. The lively acidity ensures that it remains fresh despite its structure. Accessible early, but with beautiful potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The annual production of this boutique winery on Etna is just 9,000 bottles. At an altitude of 950 metres above sea level, the one and a half hectares of vines are divided into eight tiny plots and have been gradually bought up by the well-known Oenologist. The area is planted with Nerello Mascalese bush vines, which have been spared the phylloxera phylloxera and make their way through the lava-covered terraces.

As always, Vietti's outrageously priced "entry-level" Barolo (formerly Castiglione) is based mainly on grapes from Ravera, with smaller portions from Ginestra, Mosconi, Bricco Ravera (in Monforte), Le Coste, Costabelle, Meriame, Briccolina and Codana. Ruby red colour of medium intensity. The nose is explosive, opulent, persuasive and immediate. Notes of plum, red and ripe black cherry, black cherry, rose petals and tobacco are perceptible. The palate is classic, rich, powerful, with notes of alpine herbs and a leathery finish. The tannin is already well integrated. Especially in the peak year 2021, this wine is an absolute insider tip in the winery's incredibly terrificBarolo line-up every year, and not just because of its price. SUPERIORE.DE

Produced in small quantities, Vallocchio clearly stands out from pure Brunello di Montalcino. Darker, deeper and more mystical, it shows notes of ripe blackberries and plums, complemented by exotic brown spices and a hint of lemon confit. Its texture is like velvet stretching across the palate, black-fruited and ripe, underpinned by minerals and cooling herbal notes. It is youthfully monolithic and dense, revealing its austere tannin core only towards the end, where notes of black tea, liquorice and a hint of cocoa emerge. SUPERIORE.DE

Poggio San Polo's Brunello is a selection of the best grapes from the estate's various vineyard sites. It opens very engagingly with dark fruit, including plenty of black cherry and dark plum, rounded off by aromas of undergrowth, rose petals, new leather and wild mint. Pleasing texture, suppleness and silkiness on the palate, refreshed and carried by a well-presented, refined Sangiovese acidity. Dark berry flavours, long, deep and with a slightly mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

100% Carricante of incredible elegance and purity, its subtle aroma of herbs and citrus fruits is complemented on the palate by a wonderful minerality and salinity. A white wine full of expressiveness and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

A white legacy from the volcano: with the Alberelli di Giodo Carricante, Carlo Ferrini shows that great white wines do not have to come from the north – but from the east of Sicily. The vines grow at around 870 metres above sea level in the Contrada Volpare on the south-eastern slopes of Mount Etna. It is a barren, high-altitude single vineyard with a view of the Ionian Sea, characterised by porous lava soils, layers of ash, basalt fragments and permeable volcanic sand. The Alberello system with low, free-standing vines forces the plants to root deeply – each vine wrests its own language from the soil.

When Eugenio Palumbo, Vietti's cellar master, described the summer of 2022, he came up with a phrase that has been echoing through the Langhe ever since: "Barolo grapes are usually harvested in wellies, not Crocs." A hot, dry year – harvested 15 days earlier than usual, and the decisions made in the vineyard made all the difference. As in every year, the Barolo is made from grapes sourced from around twenty different plots – the portions remaining after selection for the single-vineyard wines. In 2022, there was a rare twist: the Brunate, Cerequio and Villero vineyards were not released as separate MGA wines this time. It was therefore not the second selection, but their entire harvest that went into this wine. Palumbo himself calls the result "a sort of super single-vineyard" – and he's right.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino from San Felice shows rich black cherries and plums with sweet spices, cedar shavings and cool mint. The texture is silky, with a polished blend of red and black berries interspersed with savoury minerals. Medium-bodied and youthfully compact, it also shows a taste of what's to come as florals build over notes of liquorice and clove. A web of fine tannins envelop everything they touch with youthful composure as the wine tapers off with violet reflections. This is a very successful interpretation of the top 2019 vintage from southern Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

Anyone who knows the south-east of Montalcino knows: no sea breezes, no proximity to the lake, no soft light. Monte Amiata reigns supreme here – the extinct volcano in the background, which breaks the winds, intensifies the temperature fluctuations between day and night and gives the soil its unmistakable character: Galestro slate, gritty, barren, rich in minerals. Oaks and holm oaks stand between the vines, where elsewhere cypresses or olive trees characterise the landscape. Poggio al Granchio – the "crab hill" – lies at 380 to 450 metres, south-east exposure, the historical heart of the appellation. Val di Suga acquired this vineyard in 1999, thus completing a triangle that no other producer in Montalcino possesses. The grapes are harvested by hand in crates, in micro-zones, and the optical selection is uncompromising. In the cellar: fermentation for ten to fourteen days, followed by intensive post-fermentation maceration at 30 degrees for twenty to twenty-five days – this is where extract, density and colour are created. 2021 was particularly favourable for the Poggio al Granchio. The influence of Monte Amiata mitigated the dryness of the summer, while the long autumn ensured even ripeness.

Medium yellow-green, intense floral and gooseberry aromas on the nose, fresh grapefruit, lime zest and basil. Full-bodied on the palate, elegant texture, fine acidity, mineral, racy and very drinkable. A Sauvignon with great varietal character. SUPERIORE.DE

Bussia was there first. When the Barolo producers began to list their single vineyards on the label, Bussia was already there – the first MGA in the entire appellation ever to be bottled as a single vineyard. Today, covering 340 hectares, it is the second-largest MGA in the Barolo region, and despite its size, it is remarkably homogeneous in terms of soil and character: dense, earthy depth that unfolds into complexity over time. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino hail from Dogliani, the heart of Dolcetto production in the Langhe. The fact that the brothers, renowned for their fine Dolcetti, also produce a Barolo of such precision is only surprising at first glance. Craftsmanship and terroir are the constants – whilst the grape variety varies.

Montalcino is not a homogeneous terroir – it is a mosaic of microclimates, altitudes and soil types that produces completely different interpretations of Sangiovese within a very small area. San Polo lies in the south-east, on the Podernovi hill, where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata shields the vineyards from hot sirocco winds and has left behind pyroclastic deposits that lend the Sangiovese a mineral character found in very few other vineyards. At an altitude of 450 metres, the estate is one of the cooler areas within the appellation – ; large temperature variations between day and night enhance the aromatics and acidity, whilst the dry summer conditions concentrate the berries without stressing them.

The southern quadrant of the Montalcino hill follows its own logic: more warmth, more sunshine, and a ripening process that is more consistent and complete than in cooler exposures. Tenuta Campogiovanni is situated precisely here – on medium-textured silt-sand soils overlying sandstone and limestone, in a location that gives the Sangiovese Grosso reliability in poor years and depth in great years. 2021 was a great year – but it began with a shock. A mild, dry winter had brought forward budbreak; by the end of March, the best-exposed vineyards were already sprouting. Then came the April nights. Temperatures dropped below zero, and the early buds froze. Yields were significantly reduced. What followed was a rainy spring, which helped the vines survive a long and very hot summer. The grapes that survived concentrated what they had. Harvest took place from the third week of September through into October.