Formats

26 generations, since 1385 – no other estate in the world of wine can boast such an unbroken history. And yet the Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva label is not a museum piece, but a living testament: since the 2011 vintage, produced exclusively from the vineyards of Tenuta Tignanello, the estate nestled between the Greve and Pesa river valleys, which has shaped 20th-century Tuscan wine history more than any other patch of land in Chianti Classico. 319 hectares, of which 165 hectares are under vine – predominantly Sangiovese, supplemented by small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

When you say Nebbiolo, you think of Piedmont. Of Barolo and Barbaresco, of decades in barrels, of tannins that need more time than almost any other variety. This image is correct – and yet incomplete. Nebbiolo was already in the Aosta Valley long before anyone started marketing it. Here it has a different name: Picotendro. And it does not grow on the famous hills of the Langhe, but in the glacial Fondovalle of Arnad and Issogne – in an alluvial riverbed formed by glaciers, on silty-sandy sedimentary soils, 350 metres above sea level, between north-west and south-east exposures.

Whilst Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an airy altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Just a few kilometres away, yet geologically distinct, this Contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly adjacent to the vineyard – and it is here that the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir reveals itself. In Calderara Sottana, Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures: a pure, elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unadulterated geological fingerprint, and Calderara is one of them. Whilst the Santo Spirito captivates with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamier and warmer.

A pure Pinot Noir from the limestone-rich moraine soils around Calino – vinified using the saignée method and aged on the fine lees for at least 24 months. In the glass, it reveals a delicate hint of onion skin with lively perlage. The nose entices with floral notes and crisp fruit: redcurrants, raspberry, red grapefruit, as well as delicate hints of dried blossom and yeast. On the palate, it is dry, precise and fresh; the variety-typical fruit remains prominent and is supported by fine acidity. The finish reveals delicate minerality, juicy berry fruit and a subtle creaminess from the contact with the lees. A rosé with a clearly recognisable Pinot Noir character and an outrageously good blend of sophistication and drinking pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

Pinot Nero has always been regarded as a challenge for any winemaker. It is a grape variety that places the highest demands on soil, climate and the winemaker's expertise. This noble Burgundian grape has been cultivated in South Tyrol since 1850, where, under the name Blauburgunder, it has become the region's most important red wine. For the Sanct Valentin Pinot Nero, which has been part of the winery's prestige range since 1995, only the finest and oldest vineyards in Eppan and the surrounding area are selected – plots situated between 400 and 550 metres above sea level on moraine deposits and calcareous gravel. Minimal yields and meticulous care in the vineyard form the foundation for a wine of exceptional finesse. The grapes are harvested by hand from late September to early October. Following a three-day cold maceration, fermentation begins in stainless-steel tanks, followed by gentle pressing. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent ageing take place in barriques and tonneaux. After around twelve months, the wine is blended, before undergoing a further six months of ageing in large wooden casks – a combination that blends structure with Burgundian elegance.

Elvio Cogno produced his first vintage in 1964 from the Brunate vineyard near Marcarini, initially on a voluntary basis and later as a partner in the estate; the wine is still regarded as legendary in Barolo to this day. In 1990, he fulfilled his own dream and bought an estate in Novello, in the heart of Ravera. The manor house, which gives the wine its name, also serves as the estate's headquarters. Cogno died in 2016; his daughter Nadia and son-in-law Valter Fissore have taken over the business, and with 9.5 hectares, the estate is one of the most significant producers in the area. Three hectares of Nebbiolo grow here on calcareous clay, at an altitude of 380 metres and on a south-facing slope; the vines are 23 years old on average. Fermentation takes place in stainless-steel tanks using wild yeasts; the wine is then left on the skins for 30 days with the cap submerged, matures for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and spends a further six months in the bottle.

At an altitude of 1,030 metres, where apple trees still stood thirty years ago, one of Italy's most remarkable Pinot Noirs now grows. Peter Zemmer took the plunge a good decade ago: He planted Burgundy vines on the south-facing slopes at the Koflhof in Aldein – an experiment at an altitude that is exceptional even by South Tyrolean standards. The first vintages remained unpublished; in 2016, hail struck. But since 2017, Vigna Kofl has demonstrated what is possible when porphyry soils meet dolomite carbonate and the daily "Ora" breeze from the south provides that cool tension that Pinot Noir so loves. The vinification follows the rhythm of the vineyard: seven days' fermentation at a controlled temperature, gentle extraction through pumping over, followed by two careful rackings without a centrifuge – a time-consuming process reserved for fine wines. Twelve months in French barriques, a further six in stainless steel, and finally half a year's bottle ageing.

The single vineyard Bufaleffi is considered one of the most historic cru zones around Pachino, the historic heart of Nero d'Avola. The deep red soils with a high iron and lime content, the hot climate tempered by the sea air at night and the organic cultivation form the foundation of this single vineyard wine. The ungrafted vines are over fifty years old, the yield is low and the harvest is selective and manual. After the classic mash fermentation, the wine matures for over two years in used barriques and then for a long time in the bottle – this gives it density, structure and expression.

On the nose, ripe plum, baking spice, menthol and new leather. On the elegantly structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pepper and liquorice accentuate a core of juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry, supported by a backbone of taut, refined tannins. The fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Racy and seductive. SUPERIORE.DE

The Popoli vineyard bears witness to the fact that the Valle Reale plateau has been a wine-growing area since time immemorial. Several rows of this vineyard stretch out in front of the ruins of a cave cellar dating back to 1300. This is where the Benedictine monks from the monastery of San Benedetto in Perillis produced and stored their wine. The larger part of this very old site, where Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is cultivated, extends southwards towards the entrance to the valley.

Stefano Conterno is the more experimental of the three brothers – the one who likes to break new ground, while Franco and Giacomo would rather have a few more bottles of their legendary Baroli. But there is a method to Stefano's "playfulness": since its premiere in 1997, the Quartetto has been a bold answer to the question of whether international grape varieties can also be cultivated in the sacred hills of Bussia. The answer is yes, if you do it right. The name already reveals the concept: four grape varieties in a harmonious composition. 40 per cent Nebbiolo forms the Piedmontese backbone, plus 20 per cent each of Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah. All the grapes come from the Bussia zone, are harvested by hand in mid-October, vinified separately and matured in French barriques before Franco carries out the blending with a masterful hand. The result is a wine that combines race, elegance and impressive fullness without being overly flavoured.