Formats

Uvaggio is an old Piedmontese word for what has been practised in the vineyard for centuries: Growing different grape varieties together, harvesting together, pressing together. In Alto Piemonte, this was never an emergency solution, but a conviction – that Nebbiolo brings depth, Vespolina spice and minerality, Croatina colour and suppleness, and that the whole is more than the sum of its parts. Proprietà Sperino has recovered this principle from the historical memory of the region. Paolo De Marchi – who redefined Chianti Classico in Tuscany with Isole & Olena – returned with his son Luca to the family's home in Piedmont, the castle of Lessona, in 1999. Here, in a vaulted cellar that is more than two hundred years old, they have since been producing wines that put Alto Piemonte back on the map of great Italian red wines. The grapes come from the vineyards in Lessona and the Madonna degli Angeli vineyard in Brusnengo, both on those unique marine Pliocene sands on igneous rock that give the wine its unmistakable minerality. Spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts in open wooden barrels, 23 days of maceration, regular pumping over. Twelve months sur lie, then 22 months in a mixture of barriques and large oval barrels.

One of South Tyrol's great wine stories begins under the mighty lime tree that has given the historic estate its name for centuries. The Lindenburg in Bozen-Dorf, the family seat of the Lageders for three generations, towers majestically over the broodingalluvial soils of the Talfer – a location that connoisseurs praise as one of the two best for Lagrein in the whole of South Tyrol. Here, where millions of years of geological history have formed a unique valley basin, wines of legendary expressiveness are created.

"Courageous, headstrong, rebellious" – is how Arianna Occhipinti describes the wine that most resembles her. Frappato, this quintessentially Sicilian grape variety of rural origins, is rooted here in calcareous sandy soils at the foot of the Monti Iblei. Forty-year-old vines near Vittoria, at an altitude of 280 metres, cultivated biodynamically. The winemaking process follows the rhythm of nature: spontaneous fermentation in concrete, thirty days" contact with the skins, then fourteen months" ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered, the wine retains its vibrant authenticity.

Pinot Grigio can be many things. With Dessimis, it is one thing above all else: itself. Gianfranco Gallo realised early on that this grape variety only reveals its full character if it is given the maceration time it deserves – and if the result is not pressed immediately. Dessimis is produced from two separate plots covering nine hectares in Mariano del Friuli, on shallow, gravelly soils with inclusions of iron and aluminium oxide, which give the soil its characteristic reddish hue and the wine its mineral structure. Extended contact with the skins – not an 'orange wine', but a deliberate extraction of colour, aroma and texture. This is followed by nine months' ageing on the lees in stainless steel, with no oak and no intervention. Further months in the bottle.

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only wrote the beginning of a family story, but also symbolised the connection between man and vineyard that lasts for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the winery stands – via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence harbours a deeper truth: here, where the winery building looks directly onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably interwoven. On sandy limestone/clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines 50 to 60 years old take root – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father Secondo still ran the farm as a farm.

With Cifra, star oenologist Luca D'Attoma has vinified a wonderfully agile and elegant Cabernet Franc. Dark ruby purple in colour, with a deep aroma and notes of blackberries and liquorice. Rich fruit on the palate with firm tannins and a mineral final. A delight from the Tuscan coast from biodynamic (Demeter) cultivation. SUPERIORE.DE

Franz and Bernadette Pratzner planted their first Riesling grapes more than 30 years ago. The small parcel yields just 1,500 bottles per year. The primary rock soil, the dry warmth during the day and the cool nights provide excellent conditions for the Vinschgau Riesling to thrive on the steep south-facing slopes between 550 and 900 metres.

Livio Felluga's new cru wines are the result of massalselection. For this purpose, selected vines are reproduced in particularly favourable locations in order to renew vineyards with particularly high-quality vines and to further improve the quality of individual varietal wines.

This smooth and exceptionally polished Valtellina Superiore comes from Sassella, one of the most famous villages in the Valtellina appellation on the north bank of the River Adda. Bright ruby red in colour. Camphor, wild roses, wild berries and hints of graphite and vanilla are the main characters in this fragrant red wine. Straightforward and elegantly structured, it reveals red cherry, pomegranate and liquorice on the palate, accompanied by present but fine tannins. The lively acidity provides the necessary drive, including further ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

In the upper areas of the historic Contrada Rovittello – at an altitude of around 700 metres, on volcanic rock with a high basalt content – the old Nerello Mascalese vines of Il Musmeci take root. Some of them are even over 100 years old, their roots penetrating deep into the barren, mineral-rich soil. The north-eastern flank of Mount Etna provides a cool microclimate with a strong contrast between day and night – decisive for the aromatic precision. The name Il Musmeci is a tribute to the former owner of the parcel, Cav. Santi Musmeci, whose respect for terroir and tradition became the legacy of this wine.

Siccagno is Arianna Occhipinti's personal monologue on Nero d'Avola – not a loud one, but a concentrated, quiet and deep-breathing one. The name derives from the Sicilian term for dry farming (sicco) and aptly describes the origins of this wine: deep-rooted vines in limestone soils near Vittoria, unirrigated, deliberately left to nature's care. 2021 was a year of bright sunshine, good air circulation and a growing season free from extreme heat or stress – perfect conditions for a delicately structured vintage. The grapes are harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts, and macerated on the skins for around 30 days. The wine is aged for 24 months in large Slavonian oak casks – no rushing, no fining, no filtering. Just patience and trust in what the soil has to say.

Montalcino is a hill. To be more precise: a single, large cone of limestone, marl, slate and sand that rises above the Val d'Orcia – facing north, south-east and south-west, and characterised by three completely different climates. Most producers in the appellation have access to one of these slopes. Val di Suga boasts all three: Vigna del Lago in the north-west, Poggio al Granchio in the south-east, and Vigna Spuntali in the south-west. Three soils, three microclimates, three characters – and a single estate that unites them all under one roof. The entry-level Brunello is the result of this unique location: a cuvée from all three vineyards that aims not for simplification, but for synthesis. Fermentation lasts eight to twelve days at a controlled temperature, followed by maceration for a further two to three weeks. The wine is aged for 24 months in traditional 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels, followed by six months in concrete, then bottled. The 2021 vintage saw a late frost in April – the harvest was reduced, the quality concentrated. A dry summer without extreme heat, followed by a long, consistent autumn. The Consorzio and a jury of eight Masters of Wine agreed on three words to characterise the vintage: fragrant, precise, vertical.

Bertone – almost two hectares, planted in 2001 with Burgundian clones for great finesse – on the slope opposite the Cru Pernice. 400 metres, south to south-west facing, directly above Villa Fornace, the family's historic residence. Calcareous, clayey soil with sand and silt, a dry microclimate that accelerates ripening and concentrates the grapes. Small like a Burgundian plot, consistent like a family decision. 2021 was a year of balance at Oltrepò Pavese: a long, cool spring, a dry and structured summer. Fermentation in conical wooden vats, malolactic fermentation in barriques in spring, then twelve months in carefully selected French barrels of various origins – followed by at least one year in the bottle.

From the historic Mosconi cru hillside in Monforte d'Alba: Fides is Pio Cesare's clear commitment to the Barbera grape – for years from a singular parcel, with the strictest yield limits and tiny production. Hand-picked, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with around 30 days of maceration; malolactic fermentation takes place gently in tanks. Ageing: around 20 months in large oak barrels (botti), a small proportion in French barriques – enough to anchor depth and texture without masking the origin.

It was at the Omino vineyard that Monica Raspi took her first steps as a winemaker after closing her veterinary practice. The vines were planted in the 1990s; they face west, are situated at an altitude of 360 metres and are organically farmed. The soil is poor, consisting of limestone and clay, but primarily Alberese – a limestone dating from the Eocene epoch – and the roots reach deep into the ground. The harvest begins by hand at the end of September; the must remains in contact with the skins for 21 days at 25 degrees. Ageing takes place partly in large oak barrels – 15 months in Slavonian oak – and partly in concrete tanks for 12 months. Just 2,500 bottles are produced, made from 100% Sangiovese.

It was Paolo Foradori who made Mazon what it is today. He married into the Hofstätter family in 1959 and dedicated his life to a single project: proving that the high plateau east of the Adige Valley is the most important Pinot Noir site in Italy. The experts have proved him right. Mazon, at 350 to 460 metres, exposed on the north side, on the cooler east side of the South Tyrolean Adige Valley – with limestone gravel and clay soils, which are mineralised by the rock formations of the Werfen Formation – gives the Pinot Nero a depth, concentration and complexity that cannot be found anywhere else in this form. The Riserva is the expression of the entire plateau: the wine that Foradori in Mazon always had in mind. 100% hand-picked, completely destemmed harvest, fermentation in concrete vats with remontage. Then maturation in barriques, then again in concrete – a sequence that treats structure and freshness equally – and finally two years of bottle ageing before sale.

When French noble vines were planted in the Tuscan soil of Felsina's Podere Molinuzzo in 1998, a visionary experiment of extraordinary boldness began. Pinot Nero in Tuscany? A seemingly impossible endeavour in a region dominated by Sangiovese. But Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Franco Bernabei, who had already initiated the Sangiovese revolution with the legendary Fontalloro, once again dared to do the impossible: to cultivate the Burgundian king grape variety under the Tuscan sun. The vineyard, which covers just 2.5 hectares, is strategically located on the border between Felsina and Castello di Farnetella, on soils of sand and clay with a significant stony and calcareous component. This geological peculiarity, combined with the cooler microzone of Podere Molinuzzo, creates ideal conditions for a grape variety that elsewhere in Italy only thrives in the foothills of the Alps.

Sangioveto, made from 100% organic Sangiovese, is grown in cool vineyards at altitudes of between 260 and 370 metres, facing south-west. In the past, Sangiovese was known as "Sangioveto" or "San Zoveto". It represents a refined expression of this particular part of the appellation and a very faithful interpretation of the Tuscan grape. Radiant ruby red in colour, the Sangiovese's broad aromatic spectrum ranges from lovely vanilla notes to hints of raspberries and blackberries. Dense and creamy-smooth on the palate, it offers a harmonious blend of tannins, spice and power, with a precisely balanced acidity. It leaves a lasting and impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE