Formats

2023 marks a quiet turning point in Castiglione Falletto: Eugenio Palumbo, at Vietti's side since 2011 and assistant to Luca Currado for many years, now has sole responsibility as cellar master – and the Perbacco is perhaps his most eloquent statement. This Langhe Nebbiolo brings together grapes from up to fifteen Barolo Cru vineyards and selected Barbaresco parcels in a single glass. Each parcel is vinified separately, matured for two years in oak, then Palumbo selects the lots for the assemblage – the rest matures further to become Barolo Castiglione.

Ampeleias Alicante Nero epitomises their mission like no other wine. When Marco Tait and his team re-cultivated this almost forgotten autochthonous grape variety from the Alta Maremma in 2003, they set an example against the monoculture of international varieties. What was once suppressed to make room for fuller-bodied grape varieties is now proving to be one of the most authentic expressions of the Mediterranean terroir. The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard "Vigna della Pieve" at an altitude of 250 metres, where sandy soils are interspersed with pebbles and conglomerates. This special soil composition gives the Alicante Nero its characteristic lightness and harmonious balance. As part of the "Monovarietali" project, this wine is vinified with the utmost care according to biodynamic principles.

Light ruby red with purple reflections. Red cherry, wild strawberry and pomegranate on the nose, with a hint of rosehip, violets and fine herbal spice. Silky and taut at the same time on the palate: slender, juicy fruit, precise acidity, very fine-grained tannins with a delicate grip. Nothing superfluous, everything in line – transparent, fresh, elegant. The finish is long, carried by minerality and a hint of bitter almond, yet always cool in appearance, clear and delicate in expression. A Pinot Nero that emphasises finesse and impresses with subtle class – ideal slightly chilled with poularde, veal or mushrooms. SUPERIORE.DE

The "Baby Barolo" – is what this Nebbiolo is affectionately known as, and not without reason. Elio Altare vinifies Piedmont's noblest grape variety with the same dedication as his legendary Barolos, only without the years of barrel ageing and at a fraction of the price. The grapes come from two privileged sites: half a hectare right next to the cantina in Annunziata (La Morra), north-facing and cool, and one hectare in Monforte, right on the edge of the famous Cru Ginestra. Calcareous sandy soils, 20 to 50-year-old vines, south-east and east-facing. Three to four days of maceration in rotary fermenters, then five months in used French barriques – enough to create complexity without masking the delicate Nebbiolo flavours.

Brilliant ruby red colour. Lively nose of small, primary fruity red berries, subtle use of wood and impressive race and complexity for the price. Precise and taut on the palate, showing its origins boldly and decisively. Then a harmoniously balanced mix of tobacco, leather, cedar and, of course, cherry and plum. The finely balanced tannins carry this powerful and impressive Riserva into a long final. Impressive! SUPERIORE.DE

Trentasei means thirty-six. This Lambrusco spends at least this many months on the lees – in the bottle, at a constant 12°C, according to the Metodo Classico. Christian Bellei is not a winemaker who takes the easy way out. The idea of vinifying Lambrusco di Sorbara according to the Metodo Classico is a conscious commitment: that this grape variety should be – delicate, acidic, with a structural elegance that makes it unique among Lambrusco clones – has the potential to deal with Champagne methodology. 100% Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia, hand-picked in 15-kilogram boxes, gentle pressing, first fermentation in steel, then at least six months waiting time before bottle fermentation. Rémuage, dégorgement, dosage: 5 g/litre. Everything as in Épernay – except that the grapes come from Bomporto.

In 1973, Graziano Merotto bought plot 86 in the Rive di Col San Martino – an overgrown piece of hillside, still covered with forest. He cleared it with his own hands, planted Glera and began to shape the vineyard that would one day become his most important. Over fifty years later, this wine bears his name. The Cuvée del Fondatore is made exclusively from that historic plot – 230 metres, south-facing, clay and sand, vines over 40 years old. What Graziano Merotto decides in the cellar is unusual: mash contact before pressing – a step that most producers skip – the must then goes directly into the autoclave, undergoes a second fermentation for 60 days and then matures on its own yeasts for a further 180 days. Almost nine months from must to bottle, a comparatively long time for a Prosecco Superiore. 33,000 bottles, 670 magnum bottles, 10 Jéroboams.

The name says it all – and nothing less. Titolo is Elena Fucci's great promise: one of the most concentrated, structurally rich Aglianico del Vulture wines ever, from the oldest vines of the Contrada Solagna del Titolo at the foot of Monte Vulture. The Pink Edition is the same address, the same conviction – but a different phase in the life of the vine. For the Rosato, Elena Fucci chooses the youngest vines of the Titolo vineyard: vines between six and ten years old that give more fruit than structure, whose vigour gives the wine energy instead of heaviness. The grapes are deliberately harvested a little earlier than for Titolo Rosso – first week of October, by hand, in small crates, immediately into the cellar. This is followed by cooling, then four days of cold maceration on the skins – cryomaceration – to extract colour, aroma and the volcanic mineral character without taking away tannin or weight. Gentle pressing, steel tank, two and a half months maturation, unfiltered in the bottle.

For decades, the Porer vineyard on the Margreider Schuttkegel has been the source of Lageder's most refined interpretation of Pinot Grigio. Grapes of exceptional complexity ripen between 230 and 240 metres, where stony, sandy and highly calcareous soil with dramatic day-night temperature fluctuations creates a unique microclimate. The organic cultivation of this single vineyard follows strict principles of sustainability. The secret of Porer lies in its three-part vinification: one third is pressed immediately, another part remains on the skins for 15 hours, while the last component macerates with stems and skins for up to eight months. This orchestrated composition of different textures gives the wine its characteristic tension. Six months of ageing on the fine lees in stainless steel round off the complex flavour profile.

Cabernet Sauvignon is considered a traveller – an international grape variety that arrives everywhere and rarely really settles down. In Margreid, it does. Lafot Riserva is not a cosmopolitan Cabernet here, it is a South Tyrolean one. The vineyards at the foot of the slope of Margreid, 220 to 350 metres, south-southeast, white limestone gravel soil with deep humus – it is the same terroir that gives Levad Merlot its minerality. Cabernet Sauvignon, however, needs more time to open up: Hand-picking, destemming, fermentation in steel tanks with gentle mash agitation, then twelve months in barriques and a further year in the bottle. The result is not a quick wine.

Gewürztraminer is one of the aromatic icons of South Tyrol, and Franz Haas interprets this demanding grape variety with the precision of a perfectionist. The vines thrive on Guyot vines between 350 and 650 metres above sea level, where skeletal clay soils facing south-west create ideal conditions. These medium altitudes preserve the balance between aromatic opulence and fresh structure – this is crucial for a Gewürztraminer that does not suffocate in overripe heaviness. After a short maceration period, the must ferments at low, controlled temperatures in stainless steel. Six months of ageing on the fine lees follow, with the yeast being stirred weekly – an effort that gives the wine a creamy texture and additional complexity. This patient yeast work clearly distinguishes Franz Haas' interpretation from simpler Gewürztraminer wines, which are bottled after just a few months.

A Catarratto with character: Beleda comes from organically farmed vineyards near Alcamo, where cool nights and the proximity to the sea give the wine freshness and flavour. The wine is matured for around eight months in stainless steel tanks, with a few months resting on the fine lees – for structure, subtle fullness and elegance. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a silvery-green sheen. The nose opens with white flowers, citrus fruit, green apple and a fine salty note. On the palate, the vintage is lively, balanced and has a pleasantly juicy texture. The fruit remains subtle, the minerality dominates – a Sicilian white wine with a clear style and refreshing drinkability. Ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or young/medium-aged sheep's milk cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come from high slopes near Monforte d'Alba from the historic Pian Romualdo parcel. Soils characterised by limestone and marl with sandy veins, noticeable day-night amplitudes and strict yield limits provide concentrated, pure harvest. The year 2022 passed without any notable restrictions: a warm, dry summer with reduced yields, followed by beneficial rainfall and cool nights in autumn. This resulted in ripe phenolics, dense fruit and a clear, supporting acidity that high-altitude sites preserve particularly well.

Pure Chardonnay of remarkable depth: "Nèstri" Bianco comes from the best vineyards around Buttrio in the heart of the Colli Orientali and is vinified in strictly limited quantities. The calcareous marl soils, the temperate microclimate between the edge of the Alps and the Adriatic Sea and the careful ageing in small wood characterise a white wine that is as complex as it is unique. Brilliant golden yellow in the glass with a greenish tinge. A multi-layered aroma on the nose: ripe apple, nectarine and citrus fruit, plus hints of vanilla, toasted brioche, fresh hazelnuts and a hint of chalk. Powerful and elegant at the same time on the palate, with a smooth texture, fine minerality and precise acidity. Maturation on the fine lees lends depth and length without masking the freshness.

Campinovi tells the story of the Tuscan terroir from an unusual perspective: pure Trebbiano Toscano, to which Dievole adds a surprising dimension through twelve months of ageing in large, unroasted oak barrels made from Italian rovere and chestnut wood. The grapes grow at an altitude of 300 metres in organically cultivated vineyards, where sandy loam soils with gravel provide a distinctive minerality. Spontaneous fermentation in cement vats at a controlled 18°C preserves the natural freshness, while the subsequent barrel ageing gives the wine its characteristic complexity.

Like an almost forgotten side branch of the great trunk of Piedmont, Freisa quietly tells stories of depth, character and identity. This long-established grape variety, closely related to the more famous Nebbiolo, produces wines full of structure, tannin and cool, dark fruit – and it is precisely this fascinating balance that we encounter here in its great version: dry, powerful and with an unmistakable profile. Freisa is not thought of as a marginal curiosity, but always as an independent voice – with the flavour, dignity and substance of a great, but with a temperament all of its own: deep, enigmatic and charismatic.

The Turmhof Castle Winery in Entiklar near Kurtatsch is one of the most traditional family businesses in South Tyrol. Christof and Sabine Tiefenbrunner are now the fifth generation to run the winery – with vineyards that range from 220 to over 1,000 metres above sea level and offer the ideal location for every variety. This Gewürztraminer combines grapes from two characterful sites between 220 and 350 metres: Entiklar/Margreider Leiten with limestone gravel soils from moraine deposits facing south to south-east and Brenntal/Frauenriegel, where red, sandy loam soil faces east. This combination gives the wine both aromatic depth and mineral freshness.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

"Frauenrigl" – an old field name for one of the warmest vineyard sites above the wine route near Kurtatsch in the South Tyrolean lowlands. On calcareous gravel soils with loamy earth, a Gewürztraminer full of character thrives here under ideal sunlight and perfect aeration, which fulfils all the requirements of this demanding grape variety. After six to eight hours of cold maceration, the grapes are gently pressed and clarified by natural sedimentation before controlled fermentation takes place at 18°C in stainless steel tanks.

"The grapes come from the highest vineyard on our estate, in Monforte d'Alba, at an altitude of around 530 metres above sea level. Here, the climatic conditions guarantee the freshness and acidity that make Riesling one of the most famous grape varieties in the world and one of our great passions." Franco Massolino

A Traminer with cool elegance and moderate flavour - far removed from the baroque and broad opulence of many representatives of this variety. The grapes come from selected vineyards in the Venezie region with calcareous, well-drained soils. The 2021 vintage brought balanced proportions between ripeness and acidity - good conditions for an aromatic white wine with finesse and potential. Ageing in stainless steel tanks preserves the clarity and expression of the grape variety.

The name Gaun takes us back to the 17th century, when the noble family of the same name owned the Löwengang estate – a tribute to the historical roots of Lageder's ancestral home. Since 1934, when Alois III planted the first Chardonnay vines in Margreid, this interpretation has been considered a pioneer for international grape varieties in South Tyrol. The chalky gravel soils around Margreid, Kurtatsch and Salurn, where Mediterranean influences meet Alpine coolness, produce grapes of exceptional minerality. During vinification, Lageder focusses on salinity and tension: part of the wine is fermented spontaneously with whole grapes, whereby tannins from the skins and stems accentuate the natural freshness.

Livio Felluga's Friulano is very fresh and tropical, with nuances of sour melon, young mango and white smoke forming its attractive bouquet. It impresses with a lively acidity that balances the silky texture and ripe fruit, and with a spicy herbal note that gives it unexpected depth. Perfumed and fresh to the final, leaving a pleasant mouthfeel, with hints of bitter almond but also a gentle streak of residual tension. Very nice. SUPERIORE.DE