Formats

Before there was Soave, there was this wine. In the fifth century, the Roman senator Cassiodorus praised a sweet wine made from dried grapes at the court of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric – acinaticum, the original form of what is now called Recioto di Soave. Fifteen hundred years later, in 1998, it became the first Venetian wine with DOCG status. And yet very few people know it. The story has been reversed: Amarone, which originated in the 1930s as a "runaway" Recioto – a barrel that accidentally fermented through –became a world star. Recioto, its ancestor, remained in the shadows. Guerrieri Rizzardi's version comes from old pergola vines in Costeggiola, planted between 1960 and 1998 on volcanic gravel. Only a third of the harvest is deemed worthy of drying in fruttaio for three to five months – a selection within the selection.

It is intended to be a fine everyday wine, and the estate draws on all its resources to achieve this: the grapes for Sassi Chiusi come from Bertinga, Adine and Vertine, the estate's three vineyards. The clay-limestone soil of Bertinga imparts freshness, vigour and a rustic character; the limestone of Adine brings dynamism and complexity; Vertine offers a similar soil, though less uniform and less deep. The blend consists of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. Both varieties are fermented separately, in steel and concrete; the Sangiovese matures for twelve months in concrete tanks, whilst the Merlot matures in used barriques, after which the wine spends at least twelve months in the bottle.

This exceptional rosé comes from the high altitudes of Gaiole in Chianti and epitomises the innovative power of the legendary Castello di Ama winery. The estate, run by Lorenza Sebasti and Marco Pallanti, has been producing rosé wines since 1982, but Purple Rosé has marked a turning point in Tuscan rosé vinification since 2017. The speciality of this wine lies in its revolutionary production method: the precious juice is extracted from the best Sangiovese must containers after around twelve hours of skin contact using the saignée process. While fermentation traditionally takes place in stainless steel tanks, Purple Rosé matures part of the must in second-use French barriques – an innovation that gives the Rosato exceptional longevity and complexity. The grapes thrive on the chalky, clayey soils between 460 and 525 metres above sea level, where the cooler microclimate shapes the characteristic finesse of Castello di Ama wines. The mild climate in this special location between Gaiole and Radda, which is fresher than the surrounding area, is responsible for the elegant acidity and delicate floral nuances.

2023 marks a quiet turning point in Castiglione Falletto: Eugenio Palumbo, at Vietti's side since 2011 and assistant to Luca Currado for many years, now has sole responsibility as cellar master – and the Perbacco is perhaps his most eloquent statement. This Langhe Nebbiolo brings together grapes from up to fifteen Barolo Cru vineyards and selected Barbaresco parcels in a single glass. Each parcel is vinified separately, matured for two years in oak, then Palumbo selects the lots for the assemblage – the rest matures further to become Barolo Castiglione.

Ampeleias Alicante Nero epitomises their mission like no other wine. When Marco Tait and his team re-cultivated this almost forgotten autochthonous grape variety from the Alta Maremma in 2003, they set an example against the monoculture of international varieties. What was once suppressed to make room for fuller-bodied grape varieties is now proving to be one of the most authentic expressions of the Mediterranean terroir. The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard "Vigna della Pieve" at an altitude of 250 metres, where sandy soils are interspersed with pebbles and conglomerates. This special soil composition gives the Alicante Nero its characteristic lightness and harmonious balance. As part of the "Monovarietali" project, this wine is vinified with the utmost care according to biodynamic principles.

Light ruby red with purple reflections. Red cherry, wild strawberry and pomegranate on the nose, with a hint of rosehip, violets and fine herbal spice. Silky and taut at the same time on the palate: slender, juicy fruit, precise acidity, very fine-grained tannins with a delicate grip. Nothing superfluous, everything in line – transparent, fresh, elegant. The finish is long, carried by minerality and a hint of bitter almond, yet always cool in appearance, clear and delicate in expression. A Pinot Nero that emphasises finesse and impresses with subtle class – ideal slightly chilled with poularde, veal or mushrooms. SUPERIORE.DE

The name says it all – and nothing less. Titolo is Elena Fucci's great promise: one of the most concentrated, structurally rich Aglianico del Vulture wines ever, from the oldest vines of the Contrada Solagna del Titolo at the foot of Monte Vulture. The Pink Edition is the same address, the same conviction – but a different phase in the life of the vine. For the Rosato, Elena Fucci chooses the youngest vines of the Titolo vineyard: vines between six and ten years old that give more fruit than structure, whose vigour gives the wine energy instead of heaviness. The grapes are deliberately harvested a little earlier than for Titolo Rosso – first week of October, by hand, in small crates, immediately into the cellar. This is followed by cooling, then four days of cold maceration on the skins – cryomaceration – to extract colour, aroma and the volcanic mineral character without taking away tannin or weight. Gentle pressing, steel tank, two and a half months maturation, unfiltered in the bottle.

For decades, the Porer vineyard on the Margreider alluvial fan has been regarded as the source of Lageder's most refined interpretation of Pinot Grigio. At altitudes of between 230 and 240 metres, where stony, sandy and highly calcareous soil, combined with dramatic day-night temperature fluctuations, creates a unique microclimate, grapes of exceptional complexity ripen. The organic cultivation of this single vineyard follows strict sustainability principles. The secret of the Porer lies in its three-stage vinification: one third is pressed immediately, another portion remains on the skins for 15 hours, whilst the final component is macerated with stems and skins for up to eight months. This orchestrated blend of different textures gives the wine its characteristic tension. Six months' ageing on the fine lees in stainless steel rounds off the complex aromatic profile.

In 2007, the Rosato was born – because Marco de Grazia's three-year-old daughter, Elena, insisted on it. There was a red wine, there was a white. Why not one in pink too? The winery was already painted pink. All that was missing was the wine. De Grazia, who had not planned to make a Rosato until then, set to work. The result is not a frivolous summer wine, even though it is often enjoyed in summer. De Grazia's stated ideal for his Rosato is: "il corpo di un bianco e l'anima di un rosso". And he adds: "joyful without being frivolous; tension without being austere." Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from vines aged between 25 and 60 years on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, at altitudes of between 600 and 900 metres, on volcanic soils from the estate's various vineyards.

Cabernet Sauvignon is considered a traveller – an international grape variety that arrives everywhere and rarely really settles down. In Margreid, it does. Lafot Riserva is not a cosmopolitan Cabernet here, it is a South Tyrolean one. The vineyards at the foot of the slope of Margreid, 220 to 350 metres, south-southeast, white limestone gravel soil with deep humus – it is the same terroir that gives Levad Merlot its minerality. Cabernet Sauvignon, however, needs more time to open up: Hand-picking, destemming, fermentation in steel tanks with gentle mash agitation, then twelve months in barriques and a further year in the bottle. The result is not a quick wine.

Trentasei means thirty-six. This Lambrusco spends at least this many months on the lees – in the bottle, at a constant 12°C, according to the Metodo Classico. Christian Bellei is not a winemaker who takes the easy way out. The idea of vinifying Lambrusco di Sorbara according to the Metodo Classico is a conscious commitment: that this grape variety should be – delicate, acidic, with a structural elegance that makes it unique among Lambrusco clones – has the potential to deal with Champagne methodology. 100% Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia, hand-picked in 15-kilogram boxes, gentle pressing, first fermentation in steel, then at least six months waiting time before bottle fermentation. Rémuage, dégorgement, dosage: 5 g/litre. Everything as in Épernay – except that the grapes come from Bomporto.

Pinot Nero was first cultivated in South Tyrol in the 1860s. Since then, a handful of vineyards have emerged that offer ideal conditions for the variety – cool slopes with good air circulation, loam and limestone soils, and sufficient altitude for slow, even ripening. Mazon, above Montan, is regarded by connoisseurs as Italy’s most renowned Pinot Nero vineyard. The Pfitschers have lived here for decades with this conviction and have been making Pinot Nero from Gleno for almost 40 years. The Fuxleiten – of the Fuchshang – as the name of this vineyard translates – grows on the west-facing terrace of Gleno, overlooking the Adige Valley. The same site, the same philosophy as the estate’s Riserva Matan, only ripening earlier and more approachable: 10 to 14 days of constant punching down in stainless steel, followed by ageing in oak barrels. A fine glass of Montan.

Here, Elio Altare vinifies Piedmont's finest grape variety with the same dedication he applies to his legendary Barolos, only without the years of barrel ageing and at a fraction of the price. The grapes come from two exceptional sites: half a hectare right next to the winery in Annunziata (La Morra), north-facing and cool, and one hectare in Monforte, right on the edge of the famous Ginestra cru. Calcareous sandy soils, vines aged between 20 and 50 years, south-easterly and easterly aspect. Three to four days' maceration in rotary fermenters, followed by five months in used French barriques – enough to develop complexity without masking the delicate Nebbiolo aromas.

Campinovi offers an unusual perspective on the Tuscan terroir: a pure Trebbiano Toscano, to which Dievole lends a surprising dimension through twelve months' ageing in large, untoasted oak barrels made from Italian rovere and chestnut wood. The grapes are grown at an altitude of 300 metres in organically farmed vineyards, where sandy loam soils with a gravel component provide distinctive minerality. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete vats at a controlled temperature of 18°C preserves the wine's natural freshness, whilst the subsequent barrel ageing lends it its characteristic complexity.

In 1973, Graziano Merotto purchased plot 86 in the Rive di Col San Martino – an overgrown patch of hillside still covered in woodland. He cleared it himself, planted Glera and began to shape the vineyard that would one day become his most important. Over fifty years later, this wine bears his name. The Cuvée del Fondatore is made exclusively from that historic plot – 230 metres above sea level, south-facing, clay and sand, with vines over 40 years old. Graziano Merotto's decisions in the cellar are unusual: contact with the must before pressing – a step most producers skip – then the must goes straight into the autoclaves, 60 days of secondary fermentation, followed by a further 180 days of ageing on its own yeasts. Almost nine months from must to bottle – a comparatively very long time for a Prosecco Superiore. 33,000 bottles, 670 magnums, 10 jeroboams.

A Catarratto with character: Beleda comes from organically farmed vineyards near Alcamo, where cool nights and the proximity to the sea give the wine freshness and flavour. The wine is matured for around eight months in stainless steel tanks, with a few months resting on the fine lees – for structure, subtle fullness and elegance. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a silvery-green sheen. The nose opens with white flowers, citrus fruit, green apple and a fine salty note. On the palate, the vintage is lively, balanced and has a pleasantly juicy texture. The fruit remains subtle, the minerality dominates – a Sicilian white wine with a clear style and refreshing drinkability. Ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or young/medium-aged sheep's milk cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE

Michele Satta's Bolgheri Rosso is far more than just his bestseller – it is the authentic calling card of a non-conformist who was one of the first in Bolgheri to have the courage to blend international grape varieties with Tuscan Sangiovese. As early as 1982, two years before the Bolgheri DOC was established, Satta took this revolutionary step, thereby creating an archetype of the modern Bolgheri style. What makes this wine so special is its unconventional blend: 30% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon form the backbone, complemented by 20% Merlot and 10% each of Syrah and – here lies Satta's stroke of genius – Teroldego. This rare grape variety, native to Trentino, lends the blend a unique freshness and mineral tension that clearly sets it apart from other Bolgheri wines.

A volcanic goddess is depicted on the label. Her delicate colours reflect the shades found around the smoking crater of Europe's highest active volcano – an ancient, mighty and feminine deity, just as the locals call Mount Etna: la Montagna. Sul Vulcano is Donnafugata's declaration of love for this mountain. The Rallo family, rooted in Marsala for generations, has made its mark on the northern slopes of Etna: 18 hectares of vineyards, spread across six contrade between Randazzo at 750 metres and Castiglione di Sicilia at 730 metres – Etna DOC, Sicily's very first Denomination of Controlled Origin. The soil is of volcanic origin, made fertile by the "sciare" – the ancient lava flows that, through long geochemical processes, produced sandy, cultivable soil. The vines are planted on dry-stone terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, alternating between the "Controspalliera" training system and the traditional "Alberello" method.

Pure Chardonnay of remarkable depth: "Nèstri" Bianco comes from the best vineyards around Buttrio in the heart of the Colli Orientali and is vinified in strictly limited quantities. The calcareous marl soils, the temperate microclimate between the edge of the Alps and the Adriatic Sea and the careful ageing in small wood characterise a white wine that is as complex as it is unique. Brilliant golden yellow in the glass with a greenish tinge. A multi-layered aroma on the nose: ripe apple, nectarine and citrus fruit, plus hints of vanilla, toasted brioche, fresh hazelnuts and a hint of chalk. Powerful and elegant at the same time on the palate, with a smooth texture, fine minerality and precise acidity. Maturation on the fine lees lends depth and length without masking the freshness.

Brolio Riserva is the flagship wine of Italy's most historic winery – a wine that, year after year, bears the hallmark of the Ricasoli family whilst capturing the extraordinary diversity of the Brolio terroir. The 100% Sangiovese grapes are sourced from the estate's five distinctive soil types, situated at altitudes of between 280 and 480 metres – a mosaic of terroir comprising sandstone, galestro, alberese, marine and fluvial deposits, which lends the wine exceptional complexity. Following controlled fermentation in stainless-steel tanks with 12 to 16 days' contact with the skins, the wine matures for 18 months in first- and second-use tonneaux before spending a further three months ageing in the bottle.

Like an almost forgotten side branch of the great trunk of Piedmont, Freisa quietly tells stories of depth, character and identity. This long-established grape variety, closely related to the more famous Nebbiolo, produces wines full of structure, tannin and cool, dark fruit – and it is precisely this fascinating balance that we encounter here in its great version: dry, powerful and with an unmistakable profile. Freisa is not thought of as a marginal curiosity, but always as an independent voice – with the flavour, dignity and substance of a great, but with a temperament all of its own: deep, enigmatic and charismatic.

The rosé counterpart to Felsina's innovative spumante experiment: an exceptional blend of 50% Sangiovese, 30% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay. The carefully selected grapes undergo an extended maceration period of 24–36 hours to extract their characteristic colour before being gently pressed. The temperature-controlled fermentation is complemented by a blend – a small selection of the finest wines from the previous harvest is added to the new wine. Following bottling in the spring with tirage, the wine undergoes 20–22 months of bottle ageing, disgorgement and at least three months of further bottle ageing.

The Turmhof Castle Winery in Entiklar near Kurtatsch is one of the most traditional family businesses in South Tyrol. Christof and Sabine Tiefenbrunner are now the fifth generation to run the winery – with vineyards that range from 220 to over 1,000 metres above sea level and offer the ideal location for every variety. This Gewürztraminer combines grapes from two characterful sites between 220 and 350 metres: Entiklar/Margreider Leiten with limestone gravel soils from moraine deposits facing south to south-east and Brenntal/Frauenriegel, where red, sandy loam soil faces east. This combination gives the wine both aromatic depth and mineral freshness.