Falstaff

Pale straw yellow with a sparkling lustre. Noble nuances of flint on the nose, mineral with beautiful citrus, grapefruit and gooseberry notes. Subtly creamy and taut on the palate, with beautiful precision and juiciness, the racy, long final is pleasantly fresh and slightly salty. SUPERIORE.DE

Light, bright straw yellow with a subtle greenish shimmer – is how this exceptional white wine appears in the glass. The grapes come 100% from Nascetta, probably the only autochthonous white wine variety in the Langhe, which has been revitalised in Novello far beyond eye level – as a true expression of the diversity of regional grape varieties. The wine is matured in equal parts in stainless steel tanks and Slavonian 15-litre oak barrels – precisely balanced to combine freshness with an enveloping structure.

"A quei tempi era sempre festa" – back then there was always a party. Thus begins Cesare Pavese's novel "La bella estate", written in 1940 and awarded the Premio Strega in 1950, a tale about those fleeting summers of youth when anything seems possible. It is no coincidence that Vite Colte named its Moscato Passito after this work: the Barolo cooperative has dedicated several of its wines to Piedmontese Liters– "La Luna e i Falò", also a Pavese title, adorns their award-winning Barbera d'Asti. It is a nod to their homeland, to the landscape of hills and mist that Pavese described so unmistakably.

Gewürztraminer is not a modest grape variety. He enters the room – and everyone turns round. The question is not whether it stands out, but whether there is substance behind the flavour. In the case of Lyra from Nals Margreid, the answer is yes. The vineyards are located in the South Tyrolean lowlands, facing south-east, between 350 and 550 metres at the foot of the Roen mountain range. The soil of broodingloamy gravel on limestone gives the wine its texture, while the afternoon Ora from Lake Garda ensures freshness and healthy harvest. Cellar master Harald Schraffl vinifies single-varietal wines in steel tanks, fermenting for three weeks at a cool temperature and maturing for seven months on the fine lees.

Gravello is the great red classic of the Librandi house – and has been a pioneering wine for the region since the 1980s. The cuvée of Gaglioppo and Cabernet Sauvignon is a symbol of modern Calabria: powerful, structured and of international calibre, without denying its origins. The 2022 vintage was characterised by a warm, dry summer with cool nights, resulting in ripe, healthy grapes with dense fruit and good freshness. The wine is aged for twelve months in French barriques, giving it depth and elegance.

"My research into the world of white wines led to the creation of this unconventional wine. I have always realised that the most interesting aspect of Vermentino is in the skin. It is a delicious grape to eat, rich in aromatic notes. That's why I wanted to vinify Vermentino from the Le Gonnare vineyard, a small plot planted in 1987, and leave the skins to macerate with the must for 6 days during alcoholic fermentation. This has led to more aroma and the characteristic golden colour without making it heavy. A full-bodied and at the same time very cheerful wine." Fabio Motta

Lagrein is one of the autochthonous grape varieties of South Tyrol and finds its ideal conditions at Franz Haas in sunny locations between 220 and 250 metres above sea level. Here, significantly lower than the white wine sites, the late-ripening variety benefits from warm, broodingalluvial soils with a high gravel content. The south-south-west exposure guarantees optimal sunlight until the late harvest – this is crucial for the full phenolic ripeness of this demanding grape variety. After careful manual harvesting, the grapes are carefully destemmed and fermented in open stainless steel tanks. The grape skins are gently and not too frequently submerged so as not to risk excessive tannin extraction. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine matures for 10 to 12 months in tonneau, where malolactic fermentation also takes place. A few months of bottle ageing round off the development before the Lagrein is released onto the market.

Deep, rich ruby colour. Impressive nose of ripe berries, ripe cherries and delicate graphite nuances. Aromatic and extremely flavoursome on the palate, with a spicy, animating arc. Fine tannins. Well-balanced with a gentle structure that frames the palate until the lively finish. A true Tuscan insider tip with a great value. SUPERIORE.DE

Michele Satta's Bolgheri Rosso is far more than just his bestseller – it is the authentic calling card of a non-conformist who was one of the first in Bolgheri to have the courage to marry international grape varieties with Tuscan Sangiovese. Satta took this revolutionary step back in 1982, two years before the Bolgheri DOC was founded, creating an archetype of the modern Bolgheri style. The speciality of this wine lies in its unconventional blend: 30% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon form the backbone, complemented by 20% Merlot and 10% each of Syrah and Pinot Noir – here lies Satta's stroke of genius – teroldego. This rare grape variety from Trentino gives the blend a unique freshness and mineral tension that clearly sets it apart from other Bolgheri wines.

Enzo Barbi produces just 3,500 bottles of this flavoursome Sauvignon Bianco every year. It rises from the glass with a lovely freshness, while a delicate wave of lemongrass, chalk dust and sweet custard fills the senses. On the palate, it flows with silky texture and ripe, citrus-kissed orchard fruits accompanied by lively acidity. A hint of mint leaves and green peas lingers on the classically dry finish, while L'Inquisitore ends remarkably tangy and with a slight mineral bite. This extremely pretty Sauvignon Bianco from Umbria makes a rather light-footed first impression, but leaves a big impression. SUPERIORE.DE

Il Bacialé – in dialect "matchmaker" – brings together grape varieties that normally rarely meet: Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The grapes come from selected plots in the heart of Monferrato, whose gentle hills give the vines warmth and depth. After fermentation, the wine matures in wood, which gives it structure, finesse and good ageing potential. A successful liaison that marries tradition and international class in a pleasing way.

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Light ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of wild strawberry and delicate hints of black cherry, cinnamon and nutmeg. The corresponding, fresh flavour and subtle elegance lead to a harmonious and energetic finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The vines of this single-vineyard Barbera are rooted at the highest point of the hill in the renowned Ravera and Pasinotti vineyards near Novello. Grown on soils rich in limestone and clay with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of 300-400 metres, the wine reflects both elegance and a clear origin. The wine matures for around 12 months in large Slavonian wooden barrels, which give it depth without masking the freshness of the fruit.

700 to 800 metres above sea level, in the Piana degli Albanesi south of Palermo – where Sicily stops being what you expect it to be. Tenuta Ficuzza is located in the heart of an extensive nature reserve, with forests, Mediterranean scrub and vineyards woven into the landscape like a mosaic. Chardonnay has found a home here that makes it reminiscent of Burgundy – without copying it. Jalé comes from the historic single vineyard "del Ventaglio", named after its fan shape. The altitude creates temperature fluctuations that Chardonnay rarely gets on this island: slow ripening, cool fruit, natural tension. Hand-picked at the beginning of August, cold maceration, fermentation in old Liters oak barrels – no new wood to cover up, but silent integration. Six months sur lies, then bottled.

The Cuvée dei Frati is composed of classic Lugana grapes and ten per cent Chardonnay to round it off. After 24 months of ageing on the lees in the bottle, this fine sparkling wine is created with aromas of biscuit, hay and dried tobacco leaves. The moderate carbonic acidity makes it glide over the palate like silk. SUPERIORE.DE

When a woman who brought Valpolicella wines to the world as "Lady Amarone" acquires a vineyard in Montalcino in 2007, it is not to repeat the tried and tested, but to break new ground – but to break new ground. Marilisa Allegrini, the first Italian woman on the cover of Wine Spectator and named "Cavaliere del Lavoro" in 2020, now runs San Polo together with her daughters Carlotta and Caterina. The estate is located on the south-eastern flank of the hill, in Podernovi, at an altitude of around 450 metres – where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata protects the vineyards from hot winds and has left behind pyroclastic soils that give the Sangiovese an unmistakable mineral signature.

This exceptional rosé comes from the high altitudes of Gaiole in Chianti and epitomises the innovative power of the legendary Castello di Ama winery. The estate, run by Lorenza Sebasti and Marco Pallanti, has been producing rosé wines since 1982, but Purple Rosé has marked a turning point in Tuscan rosé vinification since 2017. The speciality of this wine lies in its revolutionary production method: the precious juice is extracted from the best Sangiovese must containers after around twelve hours of skin contact using the saignée process. While fermentation traditionally takes place in stainless steel tanks, Purple Rosé matures part of the must in second-use French barriques – an innovation that gives the Rosato exceptional longevity and complexity. The grapes thrive on the chalky, clayey soils between 460 and 525 metres above sea level, where the cooler microclimate shapes the characteristic finesse of Castello di Ama wines. The mild climate in this special location between Gaiole and Radda, which is fresher than the surrounding area, is responsible for the elegant acidity and delicate floral nuances.

Gewürztraminer is one of the aromatic icons of South Tyrol, and Franz Haas interprets this demanding grape variety with the precision of a perfectionist. The vines thrive on Guyot vines between 350 and 650 metres above sea level, where skeletal clay soils facing south-west create ideal conditions. These medium altitudes preserve the balance between aromatic opulence and fresh structure – this is crucial for a Gewürztraminer that does not suffocate in overripe heaviness. After a short maceration period, the must ferments at low, controlled temperatures in stainless steel. Six months of ageing on the fine lees follow, with the yeast being stirred weekly – an effort that gives the wine a creamy texture and additional complexity. This patient yeast work clearly distinguishes Franz Haas' interpretation from simpler Gewürztraminer wines, which are bottled after just a few months.

One of the first Bordeaux blends in Italy and still one of the best. Conte Loredan Gasparini has been vinifying this classic from the Alta Marca Trevigiana, just 50 kilometres from Venice, since 1951. The Montello area, declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2016, offers ideal conditions for Bordeaux grape varieties with its ferrous clay soils (Ferreto) and cool microclimate. The cuvée combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec – a quartet that has found its northern Italian interpretation here for decades. Eighteen months of ageing in Slavonian oak barrels lend depth without dominating.