Falstaff

Sàgana – a resounding name that describes far more than just a wine. It stands for the essence of Cusumano's work in the heart of Sicily, where the Nero d'Avola grape meets the barren expanse of the Monreale hills. The vines grow on calcareous clay soils in the single vineyard Tenuta San Giacomo, whose high-altitude plots are characterised by hot days and cool nights. This microclimate gives the wine density, freshness and remarkable depth. 2020 was a year of balance in Sicily: a warm spring, a dry but not overheated summer and ideal harvest conditions in September. The grapes were harvested when fully ripe, rigorously selected and matured in barriques for around twelve months after temperature-controlled maceration. A further year of bottle ageing completes the structure and gives the wine its polished nobility.

When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned Brancaia estate near Castellina in Chianti in 1981, nobody could have guessed that this would become one of the defining wineries of modern Tuscany. The very first vintage in 1983 took first place in a blind tasting – the beginning of a success story that daughter Barbara Widmer is continuing today as a qualified Oenologist. The entire winery has been certified organic since 2019, a consistent development of the philosophy that has always applied here: no compromises. The Riserva combines the best Sangiovese lots from both Chianti Classico estates – brancaia in Castellina and Poppi in Radda – supplemented by twenty per cent Merlot. The sites between 230 and 400 metres above sea level bring together different soil structures: Clay in Castellina, sandy loam with a stony skeleton in Radda.

Since 1995, Le Cupole has been the accessible gateway to the world of the legendary Tenuta di Trinoro, yet at this visionary winery, "accessible" never means compromise. In the Val d'Orcia, where southern Tuscany reveals its wild and unspoilt side, near Sarteano on the border with Umbria and Lazio, the eccentric scion of the Cinzano empire and nephew of the American painter Cy Twombly created a wine paradise at an altitude of 500 to 700 metres, an idea that was initially considered madness. Le Cupole is made from the same Bordeaux blend as the great Tenuta di Trinoro – Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot – but comes from younger vines on deeper, less extreme soils. The proportions vary depending on the vintage in order to best reflect the characteristics of the harvest.

The Praesulis Pinot Nero is the latest addition to the Gump Hof wine family – a challenge that Markus Prackwieser has only been taking on for a few years. Because Pinot Noir in the cool altitudes of the southern Eisack Valley is a venture that requires patience and courage. The grapes grow at 550 metres above sea level on calcareous moraine soils over quartz porphyry – those steep slopes that benefit from Mediterranean warmth during the day but are ventilated at night by the cool downdraughts from the Dolomites. A week of cold maceration is followed by two weeks of fermentation and maceration on the skins. The wine then matures for twelve months in barriques with malolactic fermentation.

Anagallis arvensis – is the correct botanical name for the small, inconspicuous flower with bright orange petals that grows between the rows of vines in the vineyard plots around Lilliano. When the Ruspoli family decided to give their Bordeaux-inspired cuvée a name, they chose this humble wildflower – a symbol of its roots in the terroir, even though the grape varieties themselves originate from France. While Chianti Classico embodies the soul of Lillliano, Anagallis represents the Tuscan courage to embrace modernity that revolutionised the wine world in the 1970s and 1980s: international varieties on Tuscan soil, vinified with respect for origin and craftsmanship. The blend of 50 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 40 per cent Merlot and ten per cent Petit Verdot comes from the Tenuta's best plots, selectively harvested by hand and fermented separately in small stainless steel tanks. Each grape variety undergoes its own cycle before being transferred to French barriques after malolactic fermentation, where it matures for 14 months – not in new barrels, but in used ones, which give the wine structure without dominating it.

Pinot Grigio can be many things. With Dessimis, it is one thing above all else: itself. Gianfranco Gallo realised early on that this grape variety only reveals its full character if it is given the maceration time it deserves – and if the result is not pressed immediately. Dessimis is produced from two separate plots covering nine hectares in Mariano del Friuli, on shallow, gravelly soils with inclusions of iron and aluminium oxide, which give the soil its characteristic reddish hue and the wine its mineral structure. Extended contact with the skins – not an 'orange wine', but a deliberate extraction of colour, aroma and texture. This is followed by nine months' ageing on the lees in steel tanks, with no oak and no intervention. Further months are spent in the bottle.

With Cifra, star oenologist Luca D'Attoma has vinified a wonderfully agile and elegant Cabernet Franc. Dark ruby purple in colour, with a deep aroma and notes of blackberries and liquorice. Rich fruit on the palate with firm tannins and a mineral final. A delight from the Tuscan coast from biodynamic (Demeter) cultivation. SUPERIORE.DE

Montalcino is a hill. To be more precise: a single large cone of limestone, marl, slate and sand that rises above the Val d'Orcia – exposed to the north, south-east and south-west, characterised by three completely different climates. Most of the producers in the appellation have access to one of these slopes. Val di Suga has all three. Vigna del Lago in the north-west, Poggio al Granchio in the south-east, Vigna Spuntali in the south-west. Three soils, three microclimates, three characters – and a single winery that unites them all under one roof. The basic Brunello is the result of this unique position: a cuvée from all three sites that does not aim for simplification, but for synthesis. Fermentation takes eight to twelve days at a controlled temperature, with maceration lasting a further two to three weeks. Maturation in traditional 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months, followed by six months in concrete and then the bottle. The 2021 vintage brought a late frost in April – the harvest was reduced, the quality concentrated. A dry summer without extreme heat, a long, even autumn. The Consorzio and a jury of eight Masters of Wine agreed on three words to characterise the vintage: fragrant, precise, vertical.

When Luciano and Luca Sandrone first laid eyes on the concave hillside of Valmaggiore in the 1990s, it was love at first sight. It was not just the history that captivated them – in the 19th century, the Nebbiolo grapes from this vineyard dictated the price for the entire region – but above all the unique combination of sandy soils and the microclimate of this natural amphitheatre. In Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro in the Roero, lies this south-facing single vineyard with extremely steep slopes, where soft sandy soils lend the Nebbiolo that finesse and elegance for which the Roero region is famous.

Rubatsch is a vineyard in Terlan at 250 metres, on a south-western slope with sandy soil on weathered porphyry rock. Two thirds of the Lagrein vines for this wine are rooted here, while the remaining third comes from the Seehof vineyard in Caldaro, where the soil is loamier and heavier. Two soils, two characters, one indigenous grape variety that belongs to South Tyrol like the Dolomites belong to the horizon.

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name says it all for a winery that has been one of the leading producers shaping the style of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first to switch to organic viticulture here – as early as 1988, when the word "organic" still raised eyebrows in the wine industry. Since 2000, Querciabella has been practising biodynamic viticulture and today manages the largest certified biodynamic vineyard in Italy. The fact that Daniele Cernilli (Dr Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as no surprise to anyone familiar with these wines. The Riserva blends Sangiovese from three of the finest vineyards in Chianti Classico: Greve brings vibrancy and bright fruit, Radda firm tannins and dark berry notes, and Gaiole riper fruit and distinctive limestone minerality. The altitudes of between 350 and 550 metres ensure cool nights and slow ripening. In the cellar, each plot is vinified and matured separately – a process of micro-vinification that preserves the terroir of each vineyard and only brings them together into a multi-layered whole during the final blend. Sixteen months in French barriques and tonneaux lend structure without overpowering the wine.

Like a precious legacy, this wine rests in the history of the patrician Serristori family, who acquired the land of Donoratico in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. Today, from the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that bears the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty whisper of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera, the DOC Bolgheri estate closest to the coast and at the same time the highest, the grapes ripen between the Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico site, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, while the subsoil is criss-crossed by marine flysch rock, a geological memory of seas long past.

Illivio is a subtle bridge between Friuli's autochthonous self-image and international nobility – a cuvée of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Picolit, named after the charismatic founder of the estate, Livio Felluga, who sadly passed away in 2017. The vines grow on the characteristic Ponca soils of the Collio – marly, limestone-rich layers that lend the wines tension, minerality and depth. The 2022 vintage brought ideal conditions: a warm, sunny summer without extreme heat and a dry autumn ensured perfectly ripe, aromatically complex grapes.

Mauritius – a name that evokes dreams of tropical islands, but here it embodies the ancient Latin name for the small village of Moritzing, where one of South Tyrol's most successful red wine cuvées is produced on warm alluvial soils. At an altitude of just 250 metres, the vineyards in Moritzing and Gries benefit from the Mediterranean microclimate, which offers both the autochthonous Lagrein and the international Merlot optimal ripening conditions. This symbiosis of two grape variety worlds – the alpine vigour of Lagrein with the Burgundian elegance of Merlot – creates a wine of exceptional complexity.

1172 – the year in which Volpaia is first mentioned in documents. A small, fortified borgo on a hill north of Radda in Chianti, built as a border fortress between Florence and Siena. Today it is a jewel of peace and beauty and one of the most historic wine villages in Tuscany. Here, where soldiers once stood guard, the Stianti-Mascheroni families now press their grapes within the medieval walls. The bottles mature in the vaults of old churches and almost every cellar contains a tank of organic wine. An entire village dedicated to viticulture. So complete that it becomes poetic again. The Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from vineyards between 400 and 600 metres above sea level. One of the highest wineries in the region. Up here, where the air is thin and the nights are cool, Sangiovese develops the elegance and minerality that makes Volpaia so distinctive. Sandstone, clay and sandy-loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Manual harvest in the second half of September, temperature-controlled vinification, then 24 months in French and Slovenian oak barrels.

A sunny high plateau at an altitude of 400 to 450 metres, gently sloping towards the south and constantly bathed in fresh air – this is the site from which Manincor's Pinot Nero originates. This airy position ensures healthy grapes and a consistent ripening period – ideal conditions for a grape variety that forgives no negligence. The vines are deeply rooted in stony moraine gravel, interlaced with dolomite, porphyry, gneiss and granite. The barren, mineral-rich soil lends the wines tension, precision and unmistakable depth. Manincor relies on small-berried, compact French clones, with deliberately low yields – yet every grape seed is packed with concentration.

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepesolo, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do that. The blend of indigenous grape varieties, with Sangiovese and Montepulciano clearly in the foreground, unmistakably expresses its terroir and is understood worldwide in the process. SUPERIORE.DE

Massolino's Barbaresco is the quintessence of finely balanced terroir: Nebbiolo grapes from the Starderi, Albesani and Serraboella cru sites mature together to create a complex yet transparent wine. The 2022 vintage provided a balanced climate – warm days and cool nights – which harmoniously blends freshness, finesse and aromatic richness. The colour in the glass is a medium garnet red with bright reflections. The nose exudes a velvety elegance of red fruits, violets, delicate lavender, spicy notes, crushed rock and a hint of orange peel – pure, lively fragrance with contoured clarity. A medium body full of energy unfolds on the palate: silky tannins, lively acidity and polished, mineral tension are the carriers of a fruit-emphasised depth. The finish lingers for a long time – intensely floral, spicy and with vibrant freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepeloso, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do it. The blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon unmistakably expresses its terroir and is recognised worldwide. Aromas of blackcurrant and cherry with fresh flowers and orange peel are followed by a medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins that are wonderfully integrated into the wine and leave a bright, concentrated impression. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer is named after Tramin. This is not a marketing story – this is etymology. The name of the world's most famous aromatic grape variety bears the village itself, where Hofstätter has been based since 1907. And the Kolbenhof plot is located above Tramin, in the hamlet of Söll, on an eastern slope between 360 and 420 metres above sea level – one of the most historic estates in the entire village. This is where the Bolzano quartz porphyry slab meets the limestone of the Mendelzug. A geological interface that does not exist in this form anywhere else in the South Tyrolean wine-growing region. The soils with a high clay content absorb the warmth of the morning sun – the Kolbenhof is exposed to the east, protected from the midday heat – and slowly release it again. Cool, structured, elegant. This is the opposite of a sweetish mass-produced spiced Traminer: dryness with character.

Düsseldorf, ProWein, 1997: Two men meet between the trade fair stands and tasting zones: Stefano Inama, who has given Garganega white wines a new dignity in Soave, and Sabatino Di Properzio, who is in the process of leading Fattoria La Valentina out of the shadow of Abruzzese mass production. What begins as an industry skirmish turns into a friendship – and an idea that Inama formulates with a joke: "Montepulciano is the Barolo of the south. We should do something together." Sabatino's answer, without hesitation: "Facciamo." Three years later, the two buy a vineyard in San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore at a forced sale that nobody wants. 4.2 hectares at an altitude of 350 metres, completely south-facing, at the foot of the Majella National Park – and planted with an ancient Montepulciano clone that was abandoned long ago due to its low yields. The grapes form two-lobed panicles reminiscent of the silhouette of the African continent: the "Clone Africa". Small-berried, thick-skinned, with a concentration that more modern clones cannot match. The vines, now over fifty years old, are rooted in loamy mid-mountain soil under the traditional Abruzzese pergola – and yield just 45 quintals per hectare.

ÙE – is what the grape is called in Friuli. And that is precisely the difference: while grappa is made from the pomace, Nonino distils the whole fruit for the ÙE – peel, pulp and juice together. The result combines the elegance of a brandy with the character of grappa. On 27 November 1984, the Nonino family created this new category and obtained ministerial approval. Today, distillers all over the world follow their model. For Uvabianca, they choose three aromatic white grape varieties: Moscato, Malvasia and Ribolla. Each is fermented separately and distilled in Benito's copper steam stills; the three distillates are only combined after maturation.

A wonderfully mature Salice Salentino with character and depth: "Per Lui" Salice Salentino Riserva comes from selected Negroamaro plots that are deeply rooted in the iron-rich soils around Salice. The long maturation in wood - partly barrique, partly tonneau - gives the wine density and expression without jeopardising its balance. Dark ruby red in the glass with a light garnet-red rim. The aroma is warm and complex: black cherry, plum, dried herbs, some tobacco and a hint of cedar. Structured and powerful on the palate, with well-integrated tannins, juicy fruit and a spicy finish. An elegant, mature Salice Salentino that shows its finer, more serious side - very much in the style of the great wines of southern Puglia. SUPERIORE.DE