wine classics

Prunotto's Barolo is a very beautiful, ethereal wine. Rose petals, spices, blood orange, mint and crushed red berry fruit keep it firmly grounded. On the palate, it is saturated and rich with dark flavours that are firmly connected to spices, liquorice and crushed blue flowers. There is power and richness deep within this wine, the well-proportioned tannin is fresh and firm, giving it energy and drive. SUPERIORE.DE

The vineyard on the western side of the Montalcino hills is so secluded that you can enjoy the starry sky to the full without being disturbed. It is therefore not surprising that this supple, very classic Brunello bears the name "Sky of Ulysses". As is well known, Odysseus had the ability to navigate the seas without a compass and by simply orientating himself by the stars.

Manfro's bouquet combines dark ripe fruits, sweet spices, some mocha with spicy herbs and violet flowers. Silky, full-bodied and energetic on the palate with cooling acidity and minerals that play superbly around the ripe black cherries. Finishes on an elegant bitter note, fresh with violet flowers and wild berries. SUPERIORE.DE

Francesco Illy came to Montalcino as a nature photographer – and stayed. What began in 1997 as a personal project is now one of the most exciting biodynamic estates in the appellation. Demeter-certified, run by a young team, with a philosophy that sees no contradiction between perfection and joie de vivre. The "Cielo d'Ulisse" – the sky of Odysseus – comes from the western plots of Montalcino, near Camigliano. Loamy-sandy soils with a touch of galestro, evening sun, a cool woodland climate: a combination that gives Sangiovese freshness and elegance rather than power. Fermentation is spontaneous, and the wine is aged for three years in large, second-hand Slavonian oak barrels.

A historic Barolo from the estate (first produced in 1905!), composed from Nebbiolo parcels in the heart of the appellation. The grapes are selectively harvested by hand, the lots are carefully destemmed and fermented; maceration takes around eight days at moderate temperatures and malolactic fermentation is completed before the onset of winter. The wine then matures for at least 18 months in large oak barrels of various sizes – an ageing process that preserves balance, transparency and expression of origin. The 2021 vintage began with a mild winter and abundant rainfall, which created valuable water reserves. A light frost in mid-April reduced the yields, but without affecting the quality. This was followed by a long, stable summer without heat peaks; scattered thunderstorms in June/July and pronounced day/night amplitudes during the ripening phase ensured a precise harvest from 6 to 15 October. The grapes achieved excellent phenolic ripeness with bright acidity.

Montebello is a sophisticated blend of Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and Sangiovese. Each grape variety is harvested and fermented separately in open Liters barrels with indigenous yeasts and manual racking. A captivating bouquet of dark cherries and earth, with notes of cinnamon, tar and grilled herbs. The defined tannins are accompanied by a beautiful acid wire. A wine with great character and beautiful structure that changes with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

Here comes the new top Gran Selezione from San Felice: intense ruby red in colour, with broad and persistent aromas on the nose. Notes of violets and blackcurrants mingle with a sweet spiciness of tobacco and liquorice. Full-bodied, supple, well-structured wine, characterised by ripe and juicy tannins that harmonise with the acidic component. SUPERIORE.DE

Ghiaie della Furba means "pebbles of the Furba stream" and there is a reason for this, as the vines for this wine grow on the river pebbles on the banks of this stream. It is one of the very first "Supertuscans". After an hour in the carafe, this extremely complex red reveals wonderfully clear, dark fruit, blackberries and cassis, as well as coffee notes, dark chocolate and spices. Its very good structure and personality are impressive. It is already very accessible today (with aeration), but still hides its great potential for the next decade. SUPERIORE.DE

The Rizzardi family has been cultivating the hills of Pojega in the heart of Negrar since 1649. What began as a vineyard became, over generations, a place where landscape and wine become inseparable – the famous Giardino, the Teatro di Verzura, the villa itself. From the south-facing plots of this historic cru comes an Amarone Riserva that is only produced in vintages deemed worthy of the family. However, the fact that 2020 is one of them is anything but self-evident. Because 2020 was a testing year. Sunny spring, heavy summer rains, heat and coolness in constant alternation – valpolicella demanded experience and sensitivity. The old Corvinone vines in Pojega in particular, late-ripening and deeply rooted in the chalky clay, produced grapes of unusual concentration from the climatic contradiction. On its centenary, the Consorzio spoke of wines with "strong personality and remarkable balance" – at Villa Rizzardi, this hits the nail on the head.

Production at the Pertimali estate was down 20% due to the spring frost, and the decision was made to pour all the juice normally destined for the Riserva into the pure Brunello, resulting in one of the top wines of the vintage.

The three Tedeschi siblings Antonietta, Sabrina and Riccardo, who also select the three barrels from which the blend is made each year, give their name to the "Ansari", which is only available in small quantities. Rich bouquet of dried fruit, sultanas, rum pot and chocolate. Firm on the palate with an excellent structure, the opulent fruit centre is joined by balsamic, herbal notes and a piquant bitter note on the long finish. The perfect addition to the famous family winery's top-class Amarone range since the 2016 debut vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

High above Sambuca Val di Pesa, just three kilometres south of the famous Tenuta Tignanello, rises the venerable Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo – a bastion of faith since the 10th century, where Giovanni Gualberto, the founder of the Vallombrosan order, once lived and died. Here, where wine of exceptional quality was already appreciated around the year 1000, only the finest Sangiovese grapes thrive on calcareous soils with clay content at an altitude of 300 metres. The historical importance of this place is documented in hundreds of volumes in the Florentine state archives – centuries of Sangiovese cultivation and rural life, preserved for eternity.

"Rich, brooding and convincing: Colle Sant'Antonio is a small selection of Garganega that I carefully choose in the vineyard and patiently wait for in the cellar." Graziano Prà

Pelagrilli is the origin – the name of the hillside north-east of Montalcino, which Siro Pacenti acquired in 1970, and at the same time the name of the flagship Brunello that his son Giancarlo has been vinifying since 1988. On sandy-loamy soils, channelling the cooling westerly winds, between 25 and 40-year-old vines, a Brunello is created here that combines Giancarlo's mathematical precision and his Bordeaux experience: fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, 24 months in small French barriques – not for flavour, but for purity. 2020 was a warm, dry summer – sangiovese under pressure, which, where well managed, turned into concentrated, supple fruit. The northern slope of Pelagrilli absorbed the heat better than the southern sites; the harvest began in mid-September under good conditions.

Vigna San Marcellino Gran Selezione is both youthfully fresh and ripe and complexly muscular. It contains a healthy dose of the deeply coloured Pugnitello grape, and on the nose liquorice, tarragon and broom mingle with lush plum and subtle roasted aromas that are highly seductive in their complexity. Deep, taut and lively on the palate, loaded with black cherry and rich, velvety tannins. The texture is silky, while subtle chalky notes and a salty minerality give it plenty of energy and lead it into a juicy, refreshing finish. Vigna San Marcellino is a convincing wine with enormous ageing potential every year. SUPERIORE.DE

In the past, the northern slope of Montalcino was not planted with vines, but was cultivated with cereals, olives and cherries. In this area influenced by the Apennines, the seasons are more pronounced, continental and the north wind significantly lowers the temperature in winter. It is therefore the coldest Brunello region at this time of year, but also the wettest. This northern slope is a gentle hill: a characteristic that is more reminiscent of the Crete Senesi area, right next door, than the two stiffer, steeper and warmer southern slopes of Montalcino.

With this exceptional Chianti Classico Riserva, the Mazzei family celebrates their famous ancestor Ser Lapo, in whose writings the name "Chianti" is mentioned for the first time. The upper part of the label features a faithful reproduction of one of his writings (from 1398) with beautiful calligraphy. "Don't worry about the cost of this wine, even though it was expensive: its quality will make up for it."

In 1994, whilst Lodovico Antinori was searching for suitable land to expand his Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, he discovered, almost by chance, the hills of Bibbona that were to rewrite his destiny as a winemaker. What he found there was not just land – it was a revelation. The soils – a complex symphony of clay and the legendary Bolgheri conglomerate – the orientation of the slopes, the salty breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea – —all spoke a different language to the familiar Ornellaia terroir. Too different, too wild, too full of character for a simple extension. And yet too fascinating to let go of.

This red wine in Riserva quality is dedicated to Bettino Ricasoli, who wrote down the grape variety mix of today's Chianti back in 1872. But he was much more than that: twice Prime Minister of the united Italy (1861 and 1866), founder of the daily newspaper "La Nazione", agricultural researcher and "father" of the first Chianti product specification. The creation of this wine interprets his tireless determination to create an independent Chianti style that is both traditional and contemporary to this day.

In the annals of northern Italian wine history, I Palchi marks a turning point – the moment when Stefano Inama realised that he had created a white monument that could compete with the world's great Burgundies. Born from the visionary search for "maximum purity", as Alessio Inama puts it, this Soave Classico not only represents the white flagship of the house, but also a new dimension of what the old Garganega vine is capable of achieving on volcanic soil. The name I Palchi – the terraces – is more than just a geographical designation. It refers to the broad, terraced slopes of Monte Foscarino, which have been characterised by the traditional Veronese Garganega pergolas for over half a century. It was here, on this extinct volcano that has watched over the Po Valley for 30 million years, that Giuseppe Inama began his quiet crusade in the 1960s. While other producers focused on quantity in the plain, he recognised the extraordinary potential of these ancient terraced vineyards – an intuition that today has left his grandchildren a legacy of priceless value.

When Giorgio Rivetti saw the hills of Neive, he immediately recognised the potential lying dormant in this Barbaresco commune: soils and exposures in which he saw the characteristics of the most prestigious crus combined. He bought the land. The Rivettis have since established a presence in Neive with four vineyards, each with its own character, each with its own voice in the estate's Barbaresco orchestra. Bordini is the most delicate of these voices.

The Romanesque Pieve di San Marcellino was built in the year 1000. It still stands today – in the middle of the vineyards of Rocca di Montegrossi, seven kilometres south of Gaiole, at the southern tip of the Chianti Classico. The vineyard bears its name. And the vines that surround it are older than most of the appellations that appear on labels today. Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi is a descendant of Baron Bettino Ricasoli – the "Iron Baron" who defined the formula for Chianti Classico in the 19th century. Not as a marketing idea, but as a genetic link to this soil. The vineyard has been certified organic since 2010 and has been planted with Pugnitello alongside Sangiovese since 2006 – an autochthonous Tuscan grape variety that was almost extinct in the 1980s. Pugnitello deepens the colour, thickens the structure and sharpens the profile of the Sangiovese grape. Hand-picked, separate fermentation of both varieties on wild yeasts in upright wooden tanks, 24 months in Allier barriques and tonneau, bottled unfiltered. Only produced in outstanding vintages – the 2020 is one of them.