wine classics

Fanti's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 is delicately flavoured, haunting floral and seductive from the first swirl of the glass. A hint of icing sugar gives way to bright cherries, candied oranges, mint leaves and lavender, creating an extrovert yet delicious picture. In the mouth, it is seamless and silky, with a subtle hint of citrus and vibrant acids introducing ripe red notes of black berries with herbs. Rounded tannins emerge on the finish with hints of liquorice and violets. As always, very well made. SUPERIORE.DE

Rich, deep dark ruby colour with a fine violet sheen. Compact and appealing nose, showing crisp fruit, especially blackcurrants and mulberries, underpinned by fine chocolate tones. Extremely precise on the palate too: ripe, fresh fruit, opens with firm, densely woven tannins, develops rich pressure, then juicy and long-lasting in the vibrant final. SUPERIORE.DE

Montepulciano is one of the oldest DOCGs in Italy – since 1966, on a par with Brunello di Montalcino. The fact that the Denominazione is now, after decades, introducing a new top category is not a marketing decision, but the result of long historical research. Twelve Pievi – the rural parishes that have divided the territory since late antiquity – were defined as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive. Gracciano is one of them. This is no coincidence: the hills south-west of Montepulciano are among the oldest and best-known vineyards in the appellation, and their wine history can be traced back to the early 19th century.

The year was 1090, the year in which Leif Erikson discovered North America, the Chinese discovered gunpowder and Pope Urban II conquered Jerusalem. On that day, the notary Bellundo recorded a contract in the Siena state archives: two capons, three loaves of bread and six coins of good silver as an annual lease for a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. "Dio vuole" – god wants it. This is the etymological root of this name, which has symbolised the special connection between man and nature in this corner of Tuscany for over nine centuries.

"Il ritorno alle origini." This is how Matteo Ascheri describes his new Barolo. In an appellation that has been increasingly focussing on single vineyards for decades, this is a deliberate approach: not a single parcel, but a careful selection from the best vineyards of the house. Thoroughness and uncompromisingness, not in the vineyard alone, but continued with the same meticulousness in the cellar. Seven generations of experience, a clear statement. 100% Nebbiolo, hand-picked between 5 and 20 October – when the Nebbiolo in the Langhe reaches its ripening point, not earlier. Fermentation for 14 days at 28°C. What follows takes time: Storage potential of 20 to 25 years. 2021 was a year of great elegance in the Langhe – even ripeness, cool nights, precise phenolic structure. Wine Spectator has included the 2021 in its Top 100. The wine explains why.

Here comes Guido Berlucchi's fine vintage Franciacorta, which does not require any dosage (zero) and thus perfectly rounds off the top end of the 61 collection. The "61" line stands for the birth year of the first Franciacorta, which was created in 1961 in the centuries-old Berlucchi vineyards. The grapes come from four vineyards between Corte Franca and Provaglio d'Iseo. In its purity, the cuvée perfectly embodies the expression of the terroir and shows the fascination of Chardonnay. Despite its 0 grams of residual sugar, it is rich and full-bodied on the palate. Very big! SUPERIORE.DE

Deep ruby red colour, lush notes of cherries, strawberries and sweet oak spice, vanilla and black pepper. The Sangiovese gives the blend great freshness and is in perfect balance with the silky and soft tannins of the Merlot. Overall rich, but always elegant and with great persistence. A complex, excellently structured red wine in absolute Super Tuscan quality and produced in a limited edition of just under 3,000 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

Filippo Fanti bottled his first Brunello in 1980. He had taken over the winery in the early 1970s, replanted the vineyards, studied the soil in detail and then waited for the first harvest that he considered worthy – and then waited for the first harvest that he deemed worthy. This first vintage was not a test run. It was a commitment. Since then, Tenuta Fanti has not missed a single vintage. Castelnuovo dell'Abate is the southernmost part of Montalcino – closer to the sea, warmer, more Mediterranean than the northern sites, watched over by the Abbey of Sant'Antimo like a silent witness to centuries of history. Fanti owns 10 hectares of Sangiovese here, spread over various slopes between 350 and 430 metres above sea level. Slate, galestro, clay, tuff – the soils change from plot to plot and give the Brunello the complexity that has always characterised the estate. Elisa Fanti, on board since 2007, has fine-tuned the style: less intrusive wood, clearer fruit, more transparency. 2021 was a year of great harmony in Montalcino: even ripeness, pronounced structure, elegant tannins.

Satèn – the name alone promises what this Franciacorta delivers: silky-soft texture, reduced perlage intensity, pure elegance. Bellavista vinifies this exclusive category exclusively in outstanding years from pure Chardonnay from the higher vineyards that catch the first morning light. The 2020 vintage shows what Vittorio Moretti's vision of perfection means: hand-picked grapes, vinified in small oak barrels, then matured on the lees for at least four years in the bottle – time that you can taste.

Every year, Istine's Chianti Classico is one of the most racy and authentic representatives of its genre. Its weightlessness and at the same time precision make up a large part of its appeal. A finely knit bouquet of red berries, flowers, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate, its fine fruit, creamy tannins and plenty of personality come to light with further aeration. A red wine that takes hearts by storm with its lively, dancing and extremely fine nerve! SUPERIORE.DE

The vineyards of the Reyna site in the hills of Neive and Barbaresco benefit from an ideal south-east to south-west exposure and reddish limestone marl, which is loosened up by sandy inclusions. The grapes are deliberately harvested late in order to achieve optimum physiological ripeness. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures for around 18 months in large Allier and Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a resting period in the bottle. The 2021 vintage was characterised by a warm, stable summer and cool nights during the ageing phase, which ensured impressive aromatic precision and a taut structure.

In the heart of Chianti Classico, where the hills of Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti meet, lies the historic Castello di Fonterutoli estate. Owned by the Marchesi Mazzei family since 1435, this Chianti Classico represents the epitome of a centuries-old winemaking tradition. The grapes come from 114 individually cultivated plots between 220 and 570 metres above sea level, each with its own microclimate and terroir. Composed mainly of Sangiovese, supplemented by small proportions of Malvasia Nera and Colorino, each parcel is vinified and matured separately in order to preserve the extraordinary diversity of flavours and complexity.

Terra di Monteverro is the estate's finely composed second wine, but in terms of expression, fidelity to its origins and depth, it is far more than that. It comes from the stony, coastal slopes near Capalbio in the southern Maremma - a region that was characterised by a long, warm summer in 2021 with moderate peaks and cool nights in September. The climatic balance allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot grape varieties, which were harvested and vinified parcel by parcel, to ripen perfectly.

Salcheto's sparkling garnet-red Vino Nobile delights us with its fragrant aroma of dried plum and a hint of cinnamon and clove. Lots of present fruit on the palate, with a fine, sweet melting flavour and a long finish. An authentic and pleasantly elegant organic wine from the heart of the Montepulciano region that is ready to drink when young. SUPERIORE.DE

Tenuta Il Poggione is located on the south-west side of the Montalcino hill, in Sant'Angelo in Colle – one of the most historically significant areas of the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi laid the foundations here at the end of the 19th century as a founding member of the Brunello consortium and one of the first to market this wine under its current name. Today, his descendants Leopoldo and Livia cultivate 140 hectares of vines, with vines up to 60 years old and a cellar philosophy of classic rigour: natural yeasts, large French oak barrels, time.

Rosé 2020 combines Chardonnay with a proportion of Pinot Nero from carefully selected parcels. Maturation on the lees for at least 30 months gives the Brut its smooth creaminess and delicate perlage. In the glass, it is an elegant old rose colour with a delicate shimmer and a persistent, fine mousse. The aroma reveals nuances of raspberry, pomegranate, pink grapefruit and delicate rose petals, complemented by brioche and an underlying spiciness. Present, juicy and refreshing on the palate, with lively acidity and astonishing depth of fruit. The finish is dry, clear and of restrained, mineral length – a rosé with presence, tension and elegance full of character. SUPERIORE.DE

The strictly selected grapes come from the vineyard "Il Corno" of approx. 400 m altitude with ideal southern exposure. Bright, sparkling ruby red. Well structured nose of blackberries, cassis, some cedar and shoe polish. Medium ripe, quite fresh fruit on the palate, yet supple and well balanced with all the volume. In the rest of the drink with great finesse, coolness and liveliness, the finish is long with well integrated wood, red fruitiness, with a slightly salty vein and lots of spice. A harmonious and well-proportioned top wine of the house, which can rightly bear the highest quality level Gran Selezione. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited the estate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona – a vote of confidence that is renewed every year. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia continue the legacy, 55 hectares in the privileged area of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the shadow of the Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the most brilliant of the last decade: bright September days and cool nights gave the Sangiovese that rare balance of aromatic precision and tannic finesse. 24 months in large Slavonian barrels, then further rest in the bottle.

Rocca di Frassinello is a bold, exotic wine. Ripe red cherries, kirsch, cinnamon and rose petals can be found in this extravagant red wine from the Maremma. The luscious fruit and silky tannins contribute to its great appeal. Over time, notes of sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and mint emerge, giving it a striking inner perfume and sweetness. This is Maremma in Purezza. SUPERIORE.DE

In the 12th century, a man named Ugolforte led the rebellion of the citizens of Montalcino against the superior power of Siena. A bandit for some, a freedom fighter for others – his name has survived the centuries in the stories told in the hills. Today it is on the label of a Brunello that carries this indomitable spirit. Tenuta San Giorgio is located in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the south-east of Montalcino, just a few kilometres from the thousand-year-old Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Founded in 1982 – in the same year that Grattamacco bottled its first vintage – the winery joined the ColleMassari group of the Tipa-Bertarelli family in 2016. Since then, it has shared the terroir with the legendary Poggio di Sotto: the same slopes, the same winds, the same philosophy. 28 hectares of Sangiovese on south-eastern slopes between 300 and 450 metres, embedded in 110 hectares of forest, which protects biodiversity and shapes the microclimate. The soils read like a geological poem: clay, galestro, tuff, red earth, white biancane, the proud Calanchi – and Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano, watches over everything.

The classic from the heart of Chianti Classico: Brolio combines the excellent drinkability of a young Chianti Classico with a complex, complete structure. The vineyards grow on the historic Castello di Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level on five representative soil types – from sandstone to galestro and marine sediments. Intense ruby red colour. Fresh, floral nose with notes of chinotto, violets and mimosa, leading to fruity nuances of black cherries and sweet mint. Velvety and complex on the palate with great harmony, elegant structure and a long, mineral final. A textbook Chianti Classico from a historic terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Il Randagio (the stray) is wonderfully complex and nuanced. Initially quite closed, the delicately spicy nose creeps up with increasing aeration and opens further into a wonderfully complex bouquet of dark red to black berries. Rising floral, savoury and spicy accents point to a wine that says more about the style of the house than anything else. The palate is wide-ranging with delicate wild berry flavours, perfectly polished tannins and a fresh, very invigorating acid wire that uninhibitedly enhances the drinkability of this once again typically different red. The best days of this wine still lie in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

Piancornello's Brunello di Montalcino 2019 is initially elegantly restrained with rosy flowers, nuances of cherry and worn leather, contrasted by a hint of sour citrus fruit. It then impresses on the palate with a silky texture and cool radiance, while the lively acidity brings out ripe red berries and minerals. The finish is structured, very savoury with notes of plum and liquorice that linger incredibly long under a hint of violet-tinged flowers. A beautiful, taut and firm Brunello from an equally beautiful vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.