wine classics

Fine Franciacorta brut in light yellow gold with a delicate mousse. Very complex and intense on the nose, characterised by fine ripe yeast notes, brioche, delicately spicy, juicy yellow fruit, some peach and citrus. Complex and powerful on the palate, juicy fruit, with a fresh structure, a seductive, minimal extract sweetness on the finish and fine red berry nuances on the taut final. SUPERIORE.DE

Petit Verdot is a grape variety that the world is wary of. In Bordeaux, it is used to add flavour – a few per cent, hardly more. As a stand-alone, pure variety, taking centre stage: hardly anyone dares to do that. Tua Rita took the plunge for the first time in 2017. 60% Petit Verdot from young vineyards on heavily clay-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere, 40% Merlot from 35-year-old vines. "Esuberante e maturo", as the winery itself puts it. A duet of exuberance and maturity. The Petit Verdot comes from vineyards planted in 2011 – young, but in a location that needs no introduction: iron-rich clay, mineral depth, sea breezes from the Piombino Channel. The Merlot comes from the old plots that have defined the estate's reputation for decades. Hand-harvested, fermented in wooden tanks, then aged for 18 months in French and American oak barriques – the wood acting as a dialogue, not a monologue.

Sparkling, medium-dense ruby-garnet colour. The Rancia Riserva from the single vineyard of the same name is powerful and energetic, expressive and dense and has been elevated to "Gran Selezione" status for the first time. The aroma is characterised by ripe, full-bodied fruit and mineral notes. The flavour is earthy, tannic and terroir-influenced, beautifully articulated, fine and with an enjoyable length. A wine that requires sensitivity and/or a few years of rest. SUPERIORE.DE

The often underrated Madre is an elegant yet juicy cuvée of Sangiovese and barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark and luscious on the palate, it captures many of the best qualities of the house's established style. Black cherries, raspberry jam, plums, graphite, smoke, lavender, liquorice and dark spices envelop the palate in an effortless, juicy red wine that is a real insider's tip after some aeration. SUPERIORE.DE

In the 12th century, a man named Ugolforte led the rebellion of the citizens of Montalcino against the superior power of Siena. A bandit for some, a freedom fighter for others – his name has survived the centuries in the stories told in the hills. Today it is on the label of a Brunello that carries this indomitable spirit. Tenuta San Giorgio is located in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the south-east of Montalcino, just a few kilometres from the thousand-year-old Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Founded in 1982 – in the same year that Grattamacco bottled its first vintage – the winery joined the ColleMassari group of the Tipa-Bertarelli family in 2016. Since then, it has shared the terroir with the legendary Poggio di Sotto: the same slopes, the same winds, the same philosophy. 28 hectares of Sangiovese on south-eastern slopes between 300 and 450 metres, embedded in 110 hectares of forest, which protects biodiversity and shapes the microclimate. The soils read like a geological poem: clay, galestro, tuff, red earth, white biancane, the proud Calanchi – and Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano, watches over everything.

This immensely popular and elegant classic Amarone from Zenato hails from Sant'Ambrogio, the heart of the Valpolicella Classico region, where the family has been based since 1960. Corvina makes up eighty per cent of the blend, complemented by Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina – all grown on the slopes of the Costalunga vineyard. Following the hand-harvest in October, the appassimento process begins: the grapes rest in shallow crates for four months, losing water whilst concentrating their sugar and aromas. Pressing does not take place until January, followed by slow fermentation in contact with the skins. The wine then matures for thirty-six months in large Slavonian oak barrels before being released following further bottle ageing.

Fanti's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 is delicately flavoured, haunting floral and seductive from the first swirl of the glass. A hint of icing sugar gives way to bright cherries, candied oranges, mint leaves and lavender, creating an extrovert yet delicious picture. In the mouth, it is seamless and silky, with a subtle hint of citrus and vibrant acids introducing ripe red notes of black berries with herbs. Rounded tannins emerge on the finish with hints of liquorice and violets. As always, very well made. SUPERIORE.DE

A rich, deep ruby colour with a subtle violet sheen. A compact and appealing nose, revealing crisp fruit – particularly blackcurrants and mulberries – underpinned by subtle chocolate notes. Extremely precise on the palate too: ripe, fresh fruit opens up with firm, tightly woven tannins, developing rich depth, before becoming juicy and long-lasting in final vibrant final.   SUPERIORE.DE

Montepulciano is one of the oldest DOCGs in Italy – since 1966, on a par with Brunello di Montalcino. The fact that the Denominazione is now, after decades, introducing a new top category is not a marketing decision, but the result of long historical research. Twelve Pievi – the rural parishes that have divided the territory since late antiquity – were defined as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive. Gracciano is one of them. This is no coincidence: the hills south-west of Montepulciano are among the oldest and best-known vineyards in the appellation, and their wine history can be traced back to the early 19th century.

The year was 1090, the year in which Leif Erikson discovered North America, the Chinese discovered gunpowder and Pope Urban II conquered Jerusalem. On that day, the notary Bellundo recorded a contract in the Siena state archives: two capons, three loaves of bread and six coins of good silver as an annual lease for a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. "Dio vuole" – god wants it. This is the etymological root of this name, which has symbolised the special connection between man and nature in this corner of Tuscany for over nine centuries.

Ugolforte was a resistance fighter. In the 12th century, he led the people of Montalcino against the Sienese occupying forces – a local hero whose name lives on to this day: in a Brunello. The most striking contradiction dates back to 2010. That was when Tenuta San Giorgio began officially supplying the Ugolforte to the Pontifical Swiss Guard – that 500-year-old corps which guards the Pope in the Vatican. The estate says that shared values, and the symbolism of St George himself – virtue and courage, good triumphing over evil – guided the decision. The wine of the medieval rebel in the service of Christendom's oldest army.

"Il ritorno alle origini." This is how Matteo Ascheri describes his new Barolo. In an appellation that has been increasingly focussing on single vineyards for decades, this is a deliberate approach: not a single parcel, but a careful selection from the best vineyards of the house. Thoroughness and uncompromisingness, not in the vineyard alone, but continued with the same meticulousness in the cellar. Seven generations of experience, a clear statement. 100% Nebbiolo, hand-picked between 5 and 20 October – when the Nebbiolo in the Langhe reaches its ripening point, not earlier. Fermentation for 14 days at 28°C. What follows takes time: Storage potential of 20 to 25 years. 2021 was a year of great elegance in the Langhe – even ripeness, cool nights, precise phenolic structure. Wine Spectator has included the 2021 in its Top 100. The wine explains why.

Deep ruby red colour, lush notes of cherries, strawberries and sweet oak spice, vanilla and black pepper. The Sangiovese gives the blend great freshness and is in perfect balance with the silky and soft tannins of the Merlot. Overall rich, but always elegant and with great persistence. A complex, excellently structured red wine in absolute Super Tuscan quality and produced in a limited edition of just under 3,000 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1980, Filippo Fanti bottled his first Brunello. He had taken over the estate in the early 1970s, replanted the vineyards, studied the soil plot by plot – and then waited for the first harvest he deemed worthy. This first vintage was no trial run. It was a declaration of intent. Since then, Tenuta Fanti has not missed a single vintage. Castelnuovo dell'Abate is the southernmost sub-region of Montalcino – closer to the sea, warmer and more Mediterranean than the northern vineyards, watched over by the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, a silent witness to centuries of history. Fanti owns 10 hectares of Sangiovese here, spread across various hillside plots at altitudes between 350 and 430 metres above sea level. Slate, galestro, clay, tuff – the soils vary from plot to plot, giving the Brunello that complexity which has always characterised the estate. Elisa Fanti, who joined the team in 2007, has fine-tuned the style: less intrusive oak, clearer fruit, greater transparency. 2021 was a year of great harmony in Montalcino: consistent ripeness, pronounced structure, elegant tannins.

The vineyards of the Reyna site in the hills of Neive and Barbaresco benefit from an ideal south-east to south-west exposure and reddish limestone marl, which is loosened up by sandy inclusions. The grapes are deliberately harvested late in order to achieve optimum physiological ripeness. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures for around 18 months in large Allier and Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a resting period in the bottle. The 2021 vintage was characterised by a warm, stable summer and cool nights during the ageing phase, which ensured impressive aromatic precision and a taut structure.

Every year, Istine's Chianti Classico is one of the most racy and authentic representatives of its genre. Its weightlessness and at the same time precision make up a large part of its appeal. A finely knit bouquet of red berries, flowers, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate, its fine fruit, creamy tannins and plenty of personality come to light with further aeration. A red wine that takes hearts by storm with its lively, dancing and extremely fine nerve! SUPERIORE.DE

Terra di Monteverro is the estate's finely composed second wine, but in terms of expression, fidelity to its origins and depth, it is far more than that. It comes from the stony, coastal slopes near Capalbio in the southern Maremma - a region that was characterised by a long, warm summer in 2021 with moderate peaks and cool nights in September. The climatic balance allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot grape varieties, which were harvested and vinified parcel by parcel, to ripen perfectly.

In the heart of the Chianti Classico region, where the hills of Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti meet, lies the historic Castello di Fonterutoli estate. Owned by the Marchesi Mazzei family since 1435, this Chianti Classico epitomises a centuries-old winemaking tradition. The grapes come from 114 individually managed plots at altitudes ranging from 220 to 570 metres, each with its own microclimate and terroir. Composed mainly of Sangiovese, complemented by small proportions of Malvasia Nera and Colorino, each plot is vinified and aged separately to preserve the exceptional diversity of aromas and complexity.

Salcheto's sparkling garnet-red Vino Nobile delights us with its fragrant aroma of dried plum and a hint of cinnamon and clove. Lots of present fruit on the palate, with a fine, sweet melting flavour and a long finish. An authentic and pleasantly elegant organic wine from the heart of the Montepulciano region that is ready to drink when young. SUPERIORE.DE

Tenuta Il Poggione is situated on the south-western slope of the Montalcino hill, in Sant'Angelo in Colle – one of the most historically significant areas within the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi laid the foundations here at the end of the 19th century, as a founding member of the Brunello Consortium and one of the first to market this wine under its current name. Today, his descendants, Leopoldo and Livia, cultivate 140 hectares of vines, with vines up to 60 years old, and adhere to a winemaking philosophy characterised by classical rigour: natural yeasts, large French oak barrels, and time.

Rosé 2020 combines Chardonnay with a proportion of Pinot Nero from carefully selected parcels. Maturation on the lees for at least 30 months gives the Brut its smooth creaminess and delicate perlage. In the glass, it is an elegant old rose colour with a delicate shimmer and a persistent, fine mousse. The aroma reveals nuances of raspberry, pomegranate, pink grapefruit and delicate rose petals, complemented by brioche and an underlying spiciness. Present, juicy and refreshing on the palate, with lively acidity and astonishing depth of fruit. The finish is dry, clear and of restrained, mineral length – a rosé with presence, tension and elegance full of character. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited the estate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona – a vote of confidence that is renewed every year. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia continue the legacy, 55 hectares in the privileged area of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the shadow of the Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the most brilliant of the last decade: bright September days and cool nights gave the Sangiovese that rare balance of aromatic precision and tannic finesse. 24 months in large Slavonian barrels, then further rest in the bottle.

The classic from the heart of Chianti Classico: Brolio combines the excellent drinkability of a young Chianti Classico with a complex, complete structure. The vineyards grow on the historic Castello di Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level on five representative soil types – from sandstone to galestro and marine sediments. Intense ruby red colour. Fresh, floral nose with notes of chinotto, violets and mimosa, leading to fruity nuances of black cherries and sweet mint. Velvety and complex on the palate with great harmony, elegant structure and a long, mineral final. A textbook Chianti Classico from a historic terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Rocca di Frassinello is a bold, exotic wine. Ripe red cherries, kirsch, cinnamon and rose petals can be found in this extravagant red wine from the Maremma. The luscious fruit and silky tannins contribute to its great appeal. Over time, notes of sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and mint emerge, giving it a striking inner perfume and sweetness. This is Maremma in Purezza. SUPERIORE.DE