VINOUS

What makes Alberto Passeri's Rosso di Montalcino so special? He is a stranger to compromise. The grapes come from the same plots as the great Brunello, from the historic vineyards of Canalicchio in the cooler north and the warmer slopes of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. This dual origin is the secret: the elegance and finesse of the north merges with the strength and maturity of the south. Where other producers bottle their Rosso after just a few months, La Gerla allows it to mature for a full two years: six months in steel tanks, twelve months in large Slavonian barrels and a further six months in the bottle. This patience pays off.

A Nero d'Avola with juice and vigour: Nerojbleo comes from the high altitudes of the Iblei mountains around Chiaramonte Gulfi. The vines are rooted there in calcareous clay soils at an altitude of around 450 metres. The temperate microclimate and careful organic cultivation characterise a wine with structure, freshness and a distinct identity. The wine is matured for around 12 months in used barriques and tonneaux. Dark ruby colour with a purple core in the glass. Black cherry, ripe plum, liquorice and a hint of Mediterranean scrub on the nose. On the palate, the Nerojbleo is juicy and harmonious, with well-integrated acidity, fine-grained tannins and supple fruit. The subtle hint of wood adds depth without masking the varietal character. A multi-layered and complex Nero d'Avola with both power and elegance – ideal with grilled meat, savoury pasta dishes or mature cheese. SUPERIORE.DE

The owner, Leonardo Pinzolo, cultivates 52 hectares of biodynamically certified vineyards, spread across his family estates in Popoli and Capestrano. The soils here differ from those in the rest of Abruzzo. Combined with the vineyards' higher altitude and proximity to the Gran Sasso mountains, these wines exhibit a decidedly cooler character than is usually found in Abruzzo. In the winery, fermentation takes place spontaneously and without temperature control. With the exception of a few single-vineyard wines, most wines are aged in stainless steel.

The Abruzzo is Italy's greenest region. 36% of its area is protected – comprising three national parks, one regional park and over thirty nature reserves. Valle Reale lies precisely where the Gran Sasso in the north, the Majella in the south and the Sirente-Velino in the north-west meet. The Cerasuolo is produced from the same vineyards near Popoli and Capestrano that also yield the estate's great red wines – Demeter-certified, on stony soils with excellent drainage, swept by the cool winds from the mountain passes and characterised by marked day-night temperature variations. The grapes for the Rosato are harvested earlier than those for the Montepulciano rosso – deliberately so as to preserve the freshness of the acidity. In the cellar, only indigenous yeasts are used, activated using the pied-de-cuve method: no intervention unless absolutely necessary.

The owner, Leonardo Pinzolo, cultivates 52 hectares of biodynamically certified vineyards, spread across his family estates in Popoli and Capestrano. The soils here differ from those in the rest of Abruzzo. Combined with the vineyards' higher altitude and proximity to the Gran Sasso mountains, these wines have a decidedly cooler character than is usually found in Abruzzo. In the winery, fermentation takes place spontaneously and without temperature control. With the exception of a few single-vineyard wines, most wines are aged in stainless steel.

Il Randagio (the stray) is wonderfully complex and nuanced. Initially quite closed, the delicately spicy nose creeps up with increasing aeration and opens up further into a wonderfully complex bouquet of dark red to black berries. Rising floral, savoury and spicy accents point to a wine that says more about the style of the house than anything else. The palate is wide-ranging with delicate wild berry flavours, perfectly polished tannins and a fresh, very invigorating acid wire that uninhibitedly enhances the drinkability of this once again typically different red. The best days of this wine still lie in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

The 2024 vintage marks a turning point: Piancornello's Rosso bears the organic label for the first time. Not that much has changed in the vineyard – claudio Monaci and Silvia Batazzi have been farming organically for years, and now it's official. A silent confirmation of what has long been common practice here in the southern tip of Montalcino. The location near Sant'Angelo in Colle is one of the warmest in the appellation. The Orcia Valley channels the sea breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea into the vineyards and enables an early harvest before the autumn rains. Twenty-eight days of maceration on the skins, spontaneous fermentation with the vineyard's own yeasts, followed by ten months of ageing – partly in tonneaux, partly in concrete.

The cork oaks still grow on the hills of Gavorrano today – silent, gnarled, enduring. They gave this wine its name. "Le Sughere": the cork oaks. A tribute to the landscape that supports and characterises this estate, long before a Renzo Piano wine cellar was dug into the rock here. The wine itself is the second label of Rocca di Frassinello – and what Oenologist Alessandro Cellai could call the heart of the estate: not the grand gesture, not the introduction, but the substance. Sangioveto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot – the same triad as in the entire estate, the same philosophy of the link between Tuscany and Bordeaux. But this is where the wood comes in for the first time. Twelve months in partly new barriques, then nine months in the bottle: patience as a method.

Alto Piemonte is a real hidden gem. Nestled between Biella and the foothills of Monte Rosa lies Lessona – a small DOC region that was once just as famous as Barolo, but then fell into near-oblivion for decades as the textile industry emptied the hills and the vineyards were left to run wild. Paolo De Marchi, who had made his mark on Chianti Classico in Tuscany with Isole & Olena, returned to his family's homeland in 1999 with his son Luca and began what some simply call a 'rebuilding' – but which is, in reality, a long and determined struggle to revive a forgotten wine region.

The grapes for this Pinot Noir come from three vineyards at an altitude of up to 980 metres. Different soils of moraine deposits, limestone gravel and sand give this ruby-red wine its unmistakable character. Blackberries, raspberries and cherries on the nose. On the palate, it impresses with power and finesse, its harmony and elegance delighting us right through to the final. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1987, there were still 0.5 hectares of Timorasso in the whole of Piedmont. The grape variety, once widespread in the hills south-east of Turin, had almost disappeared due to phylloxera, structural change and lack of interest. Walter Massa rescued it – and brought it back into the dialogue. Giorgio Rivetti from La Spinetta, whose eye for exceptional terroirs has made his company great, recognised the potential and planted in Montemarzino, Montegioco and Monleale. Derthona – the ancient Roman name for Tortona, the capital of these hills – became the name of the wine. 100% Timorasso, south-west and south-east facing vineyards, organic cultivation. Destemming, gentle pressing, fermentation in temperature-controlled small stainless steel tanks. Then seven months on the fine lees – no malolactic fermentation, the acidity remains naturally lively. Four months in the bottle before release.

In 1991, Luca and Valeria Orsini gave up their work in Milan to produce wine in Tuscany. Their winery comprises 10 hectares of south-east facing vineyards in Panzano and the wines have been certified organic since 2000. This outstanding Annata opens discreetly on the nose with subtle scents of cherry blossom, heather and roses. On the palate, it is decidedly red-fruited with redcurrants and raspberries, embraced by finely structured, powdery and persistent tannins. It has a lovely energy and above all lets the true charm of Sangiovese shine through. A real high-flyer in terms of authenticity every year! SUPERIORE.DE

Gravello is the great red classic of the Librandi house – and has been a pioneering wine for the region since the 1980s. The cuvée of Gaglioppo and Cabernet Sauvignon is a symbol of modern Calabria: powerful, structured and of international calibre, without denying its origins. The 2022 vintage was characterised by a warm, dry summer with cool nights, resulting in ripe, healthy grapes with dense fruit and good freshness. The wine is aged for twelve months in French barriques, giving it depth and elegance.

It was a very bold move when Michele Satta produced the first Vermentino in Bolgheri in 1984 – at a time when the appellation had only just been established and white wine still seemed unthinkable in a region dominated by red wine. Costa di Giulia, named after a vineyard at the foot of Castagneto Carducci, began life as a single-varietal gem made from Vermentino, until Satta took a far-reaching decision in 1997: The addition of 40% Sauvignon Blanc was intended to give the wine more character and a sweeter, more complex finesse.

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

"Place of the snakes". The name Serpara sounds menacing, but is actually a tribute: snakes seek warmth, sunshine and mild temperatures, even in the coldest months. And this is exactly what describes the single vineyard Serpara in the municipality of Maschito – a vineyard with a sunny exposure that never really knows winter, even in winter. At 550 metres above sea level, on a volcanic hillside, lie 6 hectares, half of which are planted with Aglianico vines over 40 years old. The black imperial eagle of the Swabians adorns the label – a legacy of the imperial claim that once shaped this land.

Tasting the Riserva from Fattoria del Cerro takes you stylistically to those higher vineyard sites where fossil-rich soils full of pebbles and ancient shell remains lend the Prugnolo Gentile a special mineral depth. The crowning glory of the Montepulciano hierarchy is created from these favoured plots – a wine that requires time and patience to reveal its multi-layered nature. After careful selection, the wine undergoes 18 months of refinement, combining tradition and innovation: Eight months in French barriques and tonneaux, followed by a further twelve to sixteen months in large wooden barrels. This combination creates a character of remarkable elegance and the wood integrates seamlessly without overshadowing the varietal fruit. A final twelve months of maturation in the bottle completes the harmonious development.

While the Dolcetto is the uncomplicated everyday companion, the Barbera d'Alba from Elio Altare shows a different facet: fuller-bodied, warmer and with more structure. The 10 to 30-year-old vines are rooted in calcareous sandy soils in La Morra, mainly in eastern and north-eastern locations. The grapes macerate for three to four days in rotary fermenters at a controlled temperature, followed by a five-month maturation period in used French barriques – subtle enough not to overpower the fruit, present enough for complexity.