VINOUS

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

In school philosophy, A quo denotes the starting point of an argument – the place from which everything else begins. Fabio Chiarelotto has dedicated a wine to this Latin thought. And what he meant was: Montepeloso begins here. The Swiss national with a Tuscan mother bought the estate in Suvereto, near Bolgheri – one of the hottest wine-growing regions in Tuscany. What others drown in heat, he wanted to translate into elegance. He replanted, pruned, worked biodynamically and bet that it was possible to make wines that glow instead of sweat on these limestone-rich, fossilised clay and silex soils. 2024 shows that he was right. The blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia Nera and other varieties is fermented in steel, then matured for twelve months in used barriques – no wood to cover the fruit, just one that polishes delicately. Bottled unfiltered.

Salcheto's garnet-red sparkling Vino Nobile delights us with a classic blend of dusty black cherries, cedar shavings, worn leather and sour citrus notes. On the palate, there is plenty of present fruit, a soft texture and a cool note, with savoury red fruits and cedar spice accompanied by lively acidity. Fine, sweet mellowness on the long finish. An authentic and pleasantly elegant organic wine from the heart of the Montepulciano region that is ready to drink when young. SUPERIORE.DE

Nerello Mascalese is known as the protagonist of the elegant Etna red wines – but as a rosato, this noble grape variety has a fascination all of its own. Benanti vinifies it as a single variety from the south-eastern slope of the volcano, where the vines are rooted in mineral-rich volcanic sands at an altitude of 500 to 700 metres. The grapes are harvested by hand at the beginning of October from vines on trellises that are on average 25 years old. After twelve hours of cold maceration, the grapes are gently pressed; only 65% of the must is transferred to the stainless steel tank. Ten days of fermentation at a controlled temperature with the winery's own Etna yeast, followed by maturation on the fine lees and two to three months of rest in the bottle.

A classic journey into the longing world of the South Tyrolean mountains: bright lemon yellow with golden yellow accents. Pinot Blanc Anna Turmhof, with flavours of pear, peach and floral notes, is an unusually soft and beautiful wine, rich and concentrated, with class and refinement. Its fresh acidity is a lively accompaniment to the very captivating and complex finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited this estate in Castelnuovo dell'Abate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini. His dream: to make great Brunello. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia run the estate with 55 hectares of vines and a view of Sant'Antimo Abbey. Their Rosso di Montalcino comes from the "Fonte" vineyard. 100% Sangiovese, matured in Slavonian oak. Bright ruby red in colour, raspberry and wild strawberry on the nose, medium-bodied on the palate with fine tannins and lively acidity. The elegance of the house, without having to wait and a Rosso that makes Piccolomini's greatness tangible even when young. SUPERIORE.DE

Ca' di Pian is a modern classic among Barbera d'Asti wines – spirited, fruity and at the same time deeply rooted in the terroir of Monferrato. The grapes come from old vineyards in Castagnole and Costigliole d'Asti, where the Barbera finds optimal conditions on calcareous marl soils in a sunny south and south-west exposure. The wine is vinified in the classic way: temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, followed by around 12 months of ageing in used French barriques.

Dark and initially a little brooding, Sceg shimmers from the glass with a rich and earthy blend of plum sauce, brown spices and crushed autumn leaves. The wine is silky smooth and balanced by vibrant acidity, while a contrasting wave of black fruit with citrus flavours washes over the senses. Smoky nuances and hints of ash resonate. Nevertheless, it finishes remarkably fresh, leaving a subtle hint of mineral tannins that remind the Basilicata connoisseur that this is a young Aglianico in its purest form. The grapes for Sceg come from several small plots with old vines in Barile. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine with history, personality and depth of character: Centovie is the centrepiece of a long-term project at the organically farmed Tenuta Centovie near Roseto degli Abruzzi. The 35 hectares of vineyards on the southern slope near Montipagano, with a view of the Gran Sasso, produce elegant Montepulciano, among other things – equipped with traditional training systems (pergola in long tendone and short cordon training) and an optimal microclimate.

When you start afresh on Etna, you don't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct small crater Montedolce on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision with which he grew up: cool nights, strong temperature amplitudes, mineral-rich lava sand soils, constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new sites – stands for the estate's younger Carricante vines, cultivated as Alberello in a north-north-easterly exposure. They represent a different tone to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and accessibility that makes the terroir of Montedolce immediately recognisable. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Then five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

Every year, Istine's Chianti Classico is one of the most racy and authentic representatives of its genre. Its weightlessness and at the same time precision make up a large part of its appeal. A finely knit bouquet of red berries, flowers, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate, its fine fruit, creamy tannins and plenty of personality come to light with further aeration. A red wine that takes hearts by storm with its lively, dancing and extremely fine nerve! SUPERIORE.DE

From one of the region's most famous winegrowers, this sparkling wine from a single vineyard shows the serious side of Valdobbiadene. A single vineyard from the year 2000, located directly in front of the winery and therefore close to the village. San Floriano opens with delicate scents of white spring flowers and white stone fruit. The elegant, unobtrusive palate draws all the attention to itself and offers creamy white peach, ripe green apple and a hint of citrus - and all this together with an extremely refined perlage. Delicious! SUPERIORE.DE

What the Carricante is for white wines, the Nerello Mascalese is for red wines on Etna: a grape variety that is not so clearly moulded by any other terroir in the world. Thin-skinned, light-coloured, low in tannin – fragile at first glance. At second glance: precise to the bone. The younger Nerello Mascalese vines from the Contrada Montedolce form the basis of the Contrade Nuove – direct, accessible, with the fresh character that the northern slope climate at 730 to 750 metres almost inevitably produces. The warm summer of 2022 gave the wine a little more texture and dark fruit than usual – the timely rain in autumn kept it fresh. Davide Rosso vinifies with a kit that is unusual by Etna standards: amphorae for oxygen contact, conical oak barrels and stainless steel. Giovanni's deliberate way of breaking the reduction tendency of the Nerello without sacrificing fruit and minerality.

What makes Alberto Passeri's Rosso di Montalcino so special? He is a stranger to compromise. The grapes come from the same plots as the great Brunello, from the historic vineyards of Canalicchio in the cooler north and the warmer slopes of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. This dual origin is the secret: the elegance and finesse of the north merges with the strength and maturity of the south. Where other producers bottle their Rosso after just a few months, La Gerla allows it to mature for a full two years: six months in steel tanks, twelve months in large Slavonian barrels and a further six months in the bottle. This patience pays off.

A Nero d'Avola with juice and vigour: Nerojbleo comes from the high altitudes of the Iblei mountains around Chiaramonte Gulfi. The vines are rooted there in calcareous clay soils at an altitude of around 450 metres. The temperate microclimate and careful organic cultivation characterise a wine with structure, freshness and a distinct identity. The wine is matured for around 12 months in used barriques and tonneaux. Dark ruby colour with a purple core in the glass. Black cherry, ripe plum, liquorice and a hint of Mediterranean scrub on the nose. On the palate, the Nerojbleo is juicy and harmonious, with well-integrated acidity, fine-grained tannins and supple fruit. The subtle hint of wood adds depth without masking the varietal character. A multi-layered and complex Nero d'Avola with both power and elegance – ideal with grilled meat, savoury pasta dishes or mature cheese. SUPERIORE.DE

Monte Carbonare comes from red volcanic iron soils with plenty of black basalt in the centre. Six hectares of 60-70 year old vines in cooler sites, which continue to rise to the crème de la crème of the top sites as the climate warms. A richer wine than the younger Classico, but without the same cheeky vitality. While the Classico is an unbeatable everyday wine, the Monte Carbonare is a complex wine that demands food and a little more contemplation. Mirabelle plum, apricot pit, a hint of dried mango and plenty of smoky, sharp mineral grip, with dutiful freshness that brings wonderful length. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright garnet red colour. Delicate, dark bouquet of raspberry and violet, with fine notes of rose petals and damp forest soil after further aeration. Full and rich on the palate, good harmony of power and elegance, paired with fresh acidity and length. Good ageing potential. Goes wonderfully with savoury sausage and meat dishes – you simply have to love it! SUPERIORE.DE

Il Randagio (the stray) is wonderfully complex and nuanced. Initially quite closed, the delicately spicy nose creeps up with increasing aeration and opens up further into a wonderfully complex bouquet of dark red to black berries. Rising floral, savoury and spicy accents point to a wine that says more about the style of the house than anything else. The palate is wide-ranging with delicate wild berry flavours, perfectly polished tannins and a fresh, very invigorating acid wire that uninhibitedly enhances the drinkability of this once again typically different red. The best days of this wine still lie in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

The 2024 vintage marks a turning point: Piancornello's Rosso bears the organic label for the first time. Not that much has changed in the vineyard – claudio Monaci and Silvia Batazzi have been farming organically for years, and now it's official. A silent confirmation of what has long been common practice here in the southern tip of Montalcino. The location near Sant'Angelo in Colle is one of the warmest in the appellation. The Orcia Valley channels the sea breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea into the vineyards and enables an early harvest before the autumn rains. Twenty-eight days of maceration on the skins, spontaneous fermentation with the vineyard's own yeasts, followed by ten months of ageing – partly in tonneaux, partly in concrete.