The Wine Advocate | 95–100 Points

In the southern Arbia Valley lies one of Brolio's rarest soils: an ancient river terrace dating from the Pliocene and Pleistocene epochs, shaped by water that has long since taken a different course. Francesco Ricasoli also included this site in his Cru project in 2015, through which the estate aims to reveal the character of its Sangiovese plot by plot, moving beyond any generalised narrative about Chianti. The vines are planted at an altitude of 300 metres with a south-west aspect, on silty, clay-rich soils with a low stone content, covering around 6.35 hectares with a high planting density of just under 6,000 vines per hectare, a single-varietal Sangiovese comprising three clones, each of which develops its own distinctive character on this rare terraced soil. After around two weeks of fermentation and maceration with daily punching down, the wine matures for 22 months inLiters, 30% of which are new, before being released following further bottle ageing.

Sammarco occupies a special place in the history of Super Tuscans – not only as one of the first of its kind, but as a testament to a visionary rebellion against tradition. When Alceo di Napoli presented the first vintage of this extraordinary Bordeaux blend in 1980, he made wine history: with the legendary Giacomo Tachis at his side – the architect behind Sassicaia, Tignanello and Solaia – he created a wine that would change Italy forever. The name honours Marco di Napoli, the brother of the current owners Maurizia and Luca, and embodies the continuity of a family whose land has been rooted in the golden Conca d'Oro near Panzano since 1739. Here, on calcareous Galestro soils at an altitude of 360 metres, the vines thrive according to biodynamic principles – a philosophy that makes Sammarco the first fully biodynamic Super Tuscan.

Where vines grow today, the sea once lay: the soils of Roncicone consist of Pliocene marine deposits, interspersed with shell fossils and lignite – a geological archive that was formed here long before the first vine was planted. In 2015, Francesco Ricasoli included this site in his 'Cru' project, which aims to showcase the diversity of the soils around Brolio on a plot-by-plot basis, with each plot telling its own geological story. At an altitude of 320 metres, facing south-east, the vines grow across almost eleven hectares, planted between 1998 and 2000, pure Sangiovese comprising two clones, densely planted at 6,600 vines per hectare, on subsoil that is unusually rich in organic matter for the region. After around two weeks of fermentation and maceration with daily punching down, the wine matures for 22 months inLiters, 30% of which are new, followed by further ageing in bottle before release.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Contrada Guardiola is one of the most iconic vineyards on the northern slope of Mount Etna. A high-altitude plot between 800 and 1,000 metres above sea level, where the extreme microclimate, the old bush vines and the ash, lava and pumice soils allow for an expression that is as raw as it is fascinating. The vines are deeply rooted in the porous rock and produce small-berried Nerello Mascalese grapes with an impressive aromatic concentration. The 2022 vintage was characterised by a dry spring and moderate temperatures in summer, with a late harvest that brought structure and freshness into balance. The wine is aged for 18 months in large, neutral barrels.

For some years now, Riccardo Cotarella's Montiano has been characterised by great freshness and dark, concentrated fruit. In contrast to the vintages of the early 1990s, the wine has become much livelier and more dynamic. And the 2021 vintage brings a new nuance to this characterful Merlot: riper, denser and finer at the same time. The climatic conditions – an early summer temperature rise followed by cooler evening hours – allowed for slow, even ripening with perfect concentration levels. As always, the Montefiascone region delivers mineral-structured fruit and precise floral components.

Laura Brunelli's Brunello is an outstanding reflection of the appellation every year. A floral bouquet, the purest expression of cherry and strawberry imaginable, hints of mint, sage and cedar dust - all are found in its stunning bouquet. The youthful density of the ripe primary fruit contrasts with salty minerality and lively acidity, leaving a cascading and crisp impression on the palate. SUPERIORE.DE

Sciaranuova lies at an altitude of just under 850 metres on the northern slope of Mount Etna, one of the coolest and at the same time most fascinating vineyards in the region. The site is characterised by young, porous lava flows that force the roots deep down and at the same time ensure extreme drainage. In the coolness of this altitude, the Nerello Mascalese ripens more slowly, with fine phenolic maturity and a distinctive acid structure. Vinification follows the familiar principle: spontaneous fermentation, long maceration, ageing in large used barrels.

With the 2006 vintage, Monsanto's Vin Santo was released for the first time as "Occhio di Pernice", meaning it was made from 100% Sangiovese grapes. It is vinified only in the very best years; the grapes are carefully harvested by hand in October and then placed on special racks, where they rest until the start of the following year. After gentle pressing, the must is sealed and ferments in small oak, cherry and chestnut barrels in the Vinsantaia, where it is exposed to seasonal temperature fluctuations.

An elegant, complex and supple Barbaresco. Shy in its youth, it develops its intense personality over the years.

The grapes for the estate's classic Barolo come from the vineyards/communes of Ornato, La Serra, Briccolina in Serralunga d'Alba, Gustava and Garretti in Grinzane Cavour, Roncaglie in La Morra, Ravera in Novello and, from the 2015 vintage, also from Mosconi in Monforte d'Alba. It is more of a traditional, classic Barolo with an exciting bouquet of deep, dark fruit and a pretty potpourri of rose petals, spices, smoke and tar. It is full-bodied and firm on the palate, opening up with plenty of dense tannins, very powerful, with pressure and a full bite on the finish, designed for a long life. SUPERIORE.DE

Sandro Chia's remarkable 2020 vintage is taut, forward and downright bold in the glass. On the palate, it impresses with a lot of natural richness and beautiful opulence of fruit, complemented by varietal elements of wild cherry, blue flowers and soft earth. Secondary flavours of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon then quickly surprise, adding complexity and personality to the wine, which is built up in many deep layers. It has wonderful potential for further ageing in the bottle, but it is already an absolute delight and the quality of the fruit and its length make it irresistible. SUPERIORE.DE

North-west of Montalcino, where the hills become wilder and shadier and the view stretches towards the Maremma, Castello Romitorio lies in a secluded spot that truly lives up to the estate's name. Romitorio – hermitage. When Sandro Chia acquired the dilapidated castle in 1984, it had been uninhabited for decades, having most recently served as a shelter for shepherds and their flocks. He filled it with art and planted the slopes with old Sangiovese clones – without realising what distinctive character this north-western microclimate would one day bring to the bottle. The vineyards receive less direct sunlight than the south-facing slopes; temperatures are cooler and ripening occurs later – conditions that lend the Sangiovese elegance rather than power.

Founded in 1970, Poggio Antico is one of the defining names of the last fifty years in Montalcino, having been run for over three decades by the Milanese couple Paola Gloder and Alberto Montefiori. In 2017, Paola Gloder sold the estate to Marcel Van Poecke, a Belgian energy entrepreneur and founder of Atlas Invest – a graduate in agricultural science for whom entering the wine business was less a hobby and more a return to his first love.

The Vigna del Sorbo vineyard is located directly in front of the winery. The south-west facing vineyard with Galestro soils covers 8 hectares at an altitude of 450 metres. The Riserva was first produced in 1985 and has been labelled Gran Selezione since the 2010 vintage.

Le Serre Nuove carries Ornellaia's DNA in every fibre; born of the same vineyards, shaped by the same philosophy. What Marchese Lodovico Antinori began in 1981 as a visionary experiment – planting French grape varieties on the Tuscan coast, four kilometres from the Mediterranean – has long since become a legend. Le Serre Nuove, the estate's "Second Vin" since 1997, is far more than just its younger sibling: it offers a preview and an invitation to discover that Mediterranean Bordeaux style which made Bolgheri world-famous. Following a mild winter and early budburst, the 2023 vintage saw frequent rainfall during flowering and fruit set; whilst this reduced yields, it endowed the grapes with that perfect physiological balance which characterises great wines. Cooler summer conditions and timely August rains allowed for ideal ripening. The cuvée, comprising 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, is vinified separately by grape variety and aged for 15 months in French oak – 25% in new barrels and 75% in one-year-old barrels.

Castello di Volpaia made wine history in 1983: In the midst of the Supertuscan revolution, when visionary winegrowers rebelled against the restrictive DOC regulations, Balifico was born – named after the villa of the same name in the heart of the fortified village. What began as Vino da Tavola became the manifesto of a new era that combined international grape varieties with Tuscan soils to create an extraordinary synthesis. The grapes for this exceptional wine thrive at the highest altitudes in Tuscany, at over 600 metres above sea level, where the air is already cool like the Alps and the vines are bathed in sunlight all day long. Sangiovese vines, old Tuscan clones of exceptional purity, are rooted in the same sandstone soils that have been producing great wines since 1172 – while Cabernet Sauvignon, with its international nobility, interprets the mountainous personality of this unique terroir in a new way.

Contrada Feudo is located on the northern slope of Mount Etna at an altitude of around 650 metres, where the vines are rooted in volcanically mixed, sandy and stony soils. Some of the plots with Nerello Mascalese are over 70 years old and deliver concentrated but cool fruit year after year. 2021 was a classic vintage on Etna with a pronounced balance: not too hot, not too humid – ideal conditions for a precise style. The wine is aged for around 16 months in used tonneaux, which emphasises the characteristics of the vineyard and refines the tannin structure.

Anyone looking for the truth in Sangiovese will find it here: Laura Brunelli's Montalcino has been a stunning wine full of vitality, life and energy for years. It displays an almost outrageous degree of clarity and openness. It unfolds brightly and radiantly with lasting purity, elegance and length. This Brunello shows extreme precision and focus, both on the nose and in the mouthfeel. Wild berries, blue flowers and liquorice come together in perfection, and it is impossible to surpass this quality at this price. SUPERIORE.DE