The best riservas in South Tyrol

At an altitude of 1,030 metres, where apple trees still stood thirty years ago, one of Italy's most remarkable Pinot Noirs now grows. Peter Zemmer took the plunge a good decade ago: He planted Burgundy vines on the south-facing slopes at the Koflhof in Aldein – an experiment at an altitude that is exceptional even by South Tyrolean standards. The first vintages remained unpublished; in 2016, hail struck. But since 2017, Vigna Kofl has demonstrated what is possible when porphyry soils meet dolomite carbonate and the daily "Ora" breeze from the south provides that cool tension that Pinot Noir so loves. The vinification follows the rhythm of the vineyard: seven days' fermentation at a controlled temperature, gentle extraction through pumping over, followed by two careful rackings without a centrifuge – a time-consuming process reserved for fine wines. Twelve months in French barriques, a further six in stainless steel, and finally half a year's bottle ageing.

The Wolfstor – a name that commands respect. Andrian's flagship wine was one of South Tyrol's very first premium Lagrein wines. A true veteran of South Tyrolean quality winegrowing, one might say. Since its early days, the winery has been producing this Riserva from grapes grown in Gries near Bolzano, the traditional home of Lagrein. Gries is different. Here in the Bolzano region, the vines grow on warm, alluvial porphyry soils. The microclimate is warmer than elsewhere, the soils more well-drained, with more gravel and less clay. Perfect for Lagrein, which needs warmth and sunshine. The old vines yield concentrated grapes: low yields, maximum extraction. Vinification follows traditional methods. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by eighteen months in French barriques. Malolactic fermentation takes place entirely in the wood, which makes the tannins silky and rounded.

Following its acclaimed comeback in 2022, the next vintage confirms it: the Linticlarus Chardonnay is back – and is here to stay. The selective harvest from the finest Chardonnay plots in Entiklar, at an altitude of 300 to 340 metres in the immediate vicinity of the legendary Vigna AU, produces a wine of remarkable elegance. The glacial moraine soils, with their high limestone content and natural salts, shape the wine’s character. Twelve months’ ageing in barriques and tonneaux lend structure and finesse without overpowering the fruit.

One of the really great Chardonnays from South Tyrol: bright, intense light golden yellow in colour. In the powerful yet harmonious Chardonnay Baron Salvadori, the aromas of fine vanilla cream and ripe fruit change in quick succession. Fresh and round on the palate, the accentuated fruit is accompanied by balanced acidity, a fine salty vein and well-integrated wood spice. SUPERIORE.DE

First-class, ruby-red Pinot Noir with a garnet-red shimmer. Fine fruity bouquet of wild berries and cherries. An elegant red, well-proportioned and never overloaded, but with a clear identity and elegant character. SUPERIORE.DE

2022 was a vintage of concentration: dry winter, hot summer – small yields, but outstanding quality. The Tiefenbrunner family demonstrates this intensity in the Linticlarus cuvée in an impressive way. The classic Bordeaux assemblage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal parts grows on the south-southeast-facing slopes of Entiklar, at an altitude of 260 to 300 metres. The broodingmoraine soil – loamy sand with a high lime content – stores the heat of the day and slowly releases it at night. The result: perfect phenolic ripeness with preserved freshness. Mash fermentation in concrete is followed by 12 months in barriques, 6 months in large wooden barrels and a further year of bottle ageing.

Around 280 million years ago, the Bolzano quartz porphyry was formed by volcanic heat. Subsequent geological movements mixed it with the dolomite and limestone of the Mendel Ridge, and near Andrian, this has formed a conical hill of reddish, limestone-rich loam containing angular, white dolomite boulders. The soil is loose, well-aerated and neutral in pH; it maintains a balance of water, and the vines have deep roots. Pinot Noir is grown there at an altitude of 470 metres. Its grapes come from late-harvested vines and are harvested by hand, yielding 40 hectolitres per hectare, before being taken to the cellar. Fermentation takes place on the must in stainless steel tanks, under controlled conditions with gentle stirring of the must. Barriques are used for malolactic fermentation and ageing, as the estate deliberately ages its selection wines with more oak than its classic wines.

Anrar is the answer to a simple question: what happens when South Tyrol's second most important red grape variety is aged in wood? Whilst the classic Pinot Nero retains its freshness in stainless steel, Anrar takes a different approach. Around 12 months in French barriques for malolactic fermentation and further ageing. No overpowering oak, but rather elegant integration. That's what makes the difference. But that's not all: the grapes come from the finest Pinot Nero vineyards around Andrian. Altitudes between 350 and 450 metres, where the calcareous loam soils are interspersed with dolomite rock. The cooler microclimate ensures slow ripening, higher acidity and finer tannins. Perfect for a Pinot Nero with Burgundian aspirations.

Mazon is known as Italy's Grand Cru of Pinot Nero – warm, brooding, concentrated. What few people realise: The plateau has a downside. At the northernmost tip, where the terrain rises to 430 to 460 metres and the downdraughts become cooler, lies the Vigna Herbsthöfl – the highest and coolest parcel of the entire Barthenau estate. Here, vines from a special selection of the neighbouring Vigna Roccolo grow on calcareous, slightly sandy glacial deposits – a soil that gives the wine a minerality and lightness that the classic Mazon profile does not recognise. The Herbsthöfl was vinified separately for the first time in 2022 – the latest "Vigna" wine in the Hofstätter portfolio. It is no coincidence that Martin Foradori-Hofstätter immediately declared it a Riserva: the parcel has the format, and the vintage provided the quality. Harvested entirely by hand, completely destemmed, fermentation in concrete vats with remontage, followed by barrique, concrete, bottle – the same care as its big brother S. Urbano, but with a different response: fresher, more transparent, finer in texture.

1919 is undisputedly the top product among Kettmeir's sparkling wines. Here, the entire expertise of the South Tyrolean company, which produces according to traditional bottle fermentation, unfolds. The Chardonnay base wine matures in wood, the Pinot Nero in stainless steel tanks. Both base wines are then blended and mature for at least 60 months in the bottle on the fine lees. The result is a concert for the senses: complex, multi-layered bouquet of citrus fruits, dried fruit and spices. Bread, smoke and minerals round off the exciting picture. On the palate, we are thrilled by this freshness and depth, which never give the impression that there is too much of everything here, but that everything is precisely dimensioned in its place. Tautness on the palate, a lively personality, fragrance, spice and sensuality are paired with a seriousness and room-filling presence that rightly places the 1919 among Italy's great Spumanti. SUPERIORE.DE

Matan Pinot Nero Riserva is one of the two red flagships of the family winery, the grapes come from the most valuable Pinot Noir vineyards in Montan. Deep ruby red in colour. The multi-layered and complex bouquet has aromas of dried cherries, lavender, orange zest, porcini mushrooms, cedar wood and cloves. Medium to full-bodied on the palate with supple, grainy tannins and fresh acidity. Concentrated, flavoursome and deliciously spiced, with a beguiling juiciness and plenty of potential. One of the great Pinot Noirs of South Tyrol! SUPERIORE.DE

1919 is the undisputed top product among Kettmeir's sparkling wines. This is where all the expertise of the South Tyrolean company, which produces using the traditional bottle fermentation method, comes to the fore. The Chardonnay base wine matures in wood, the Pinot Nero in stainless steel tanks. Both base wines are then blended and matured for at least 60 months in the bottle on the fine lees.The result is a concert for the senses: a complex, multi-layered bouquet of citrus fruit, dried fruit and spices. Bread, smoke and minerals round off the exciting picture. On the palate, we are delighted by the freshness and depth, which never give the impression that there is too much of anything here, but that everything is precisely in its place. Tight tension on the palate, a lively and vibrant personality, flavour, spice and sensuality are combined with a seriousness and room-filling presence that rightly places the 1919 among Italy's great Spumanti. SUPERIORE.DE

The roots of this story run deeper than any memory: the vines, which have borne silent witness for generations in the warm alluvial soils of Gries, are over 80 years old. Here, where in 1908 thirty visionary winegrowers laid the foundations for a legend, that masterpiece is created year after year – a wine that has long since become the undisputed icon of South Tyrolean winemaking: Taber Lagrein Riserva. It is a wine that embodies time. Time in the old vines, which, at an altitude of just 250 metres, transform the extreme temperature fluctuations between hot days and cool nights into pure concentration. Time in the patient, painstaking work that selects only the finest grapes for this exceptional Riserva. And time for ageing, where, following traditional fermentation in wooden casks, perfection awaits after a full year in French barriques.

Renaissance – the name says it all. Whether Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli or Michelangelo were wine lovers is a question Markus Prackwieser leaves to the historians. Yet their universal genius inspires him: only in the very best years, when all the factors come together perfectly, does he create these artful wines – masterpieces that shine with versatility and finesse. The Sauvignon Blanc Riserva Renaissance embodies this philosophy in its purest form. The grapes grow on calcareous moraine soils over quartz porphyry at an altitude of 400 to 550 metres, where Mediterranean warmth prevails during the day and cool Dolomite winds ensure crystalline freshness at night. After a brief maceration and gentle pressing, the wine ferments entirely in tonneaux. Then comes the crucial step: twelve months' ageing in large oak casks on the first lees, followed by a further ten months in steel tanks on the fine lees. This patient ageing process lends the wine that extra smoothness and finesse which sets it apart from all others.

A castle ruin towers above the entrance to the village of Terlan. First mentioned in a document in 1206. Much has changed since then – the languages, the borders, the owners. What has remained are the porphyry rock, the northern foehn wind and the determination to produce wine here that does the village justice. Nova Domus – New House. Founded in 1893 by 24 winegrowers, with the simple aim of being better together than apart.

It could easily be mistaken for a very high-quality St.-Emilion from a cooler vintage: a compact and finesse-rich Merlot-Cabernet from old vineyards and vinified according to traditional methods. Deep dark red in colour, with complex, berry aromas on the nose. On the palate, the Cuvée Anticus impresses with pleasantly ripe fruit, velvety tannins and a wonderful texture. Lush and almost endless finish! SUPERIORE.DE

We are delighted to be one of the few retailers who receive a few cases of this finesse-rich sparkling wine every year. Brilliant pale yellow in colour, this clarity is also immediately apparent on the nose, where delicate fruit and citrus notes combine harmoniously with a refreshing minerality. On the palate, it has a pronounced elegance and finesse, supported by a freshness and precision that gives it great persistence. No dosage, less than 0.5g residual sugar, very convincing! SUPERIORE.DE

One of the rarest creations of Alpine viticulture thrives in the sheltered locations between 250 and 350 metres above sea level, where the Tridentine mountains clasp precious vineyards like protective hands. The name Loam (loam) tells the story of soils that guard their heat storage capacity like a secret and give French Bordeaux grape varieties the full ripeness that seems impossible in the Alpine region. The grapes for this cuvée come from a terroir that creates a microclimate of magical intensity between the Mediterranean sun and cool mountain winds. The southeast-facing vineyards catch the first rays of the morning sun, while the cold downdraughts of the nights create the concentration of flavours that can produce great wines. After manual harvest at the end of October, the journey through time and wood begins: twelve months of ageing in French barriques, a further six in large wooden barrels, followed by at least six months of bottle ageing.

Gant is synonymous with excellence. For years, this Merlot Riserva has been Andrian's flagship wine. A wine that demonstrates what this international grape variety is capable of at South Tyrolean altitudes. Whilst Merlot often becomes too opulent elsewhere, here, between 250 and 300 metres above the Adige Valley, it reveals its elegant side. The vineyard sites are perfectly chosen: medium-textured, sandy loam soil ensures good drainage and prevents the Merlot from becoming too rich. The cooler microclimate slows down ripening, preserves the acidity and ensures finer tannins. This is exactly what this grape variety needs to develop character rather than just power. The vinification follows classic methods: fermentation of the must in stainless steel tanks with gentle agitation of the must. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is transferred to barriques for malolactic fermentation and further ageing. The oak integrates elegantly, providing structure without being overpowering. Time and patience are two of the secrets behind the Gant.

Merlot is a newcomer to South Tyrol, but one that has settled in well. It grows here at altitudes of 250 to 300 metres in medium-textured, sandy loam and enjoys a climate with a fair range of temperatures: The estate records 40.7 degrees in August 2003 as the highest temperature, minus 13 degrees as a rare low, with an annual average of 12.2 degrees and 550 to 650 millimetres of rainfall. The vineyard is sheltered from the wind; only a light northerly breeze sweeps through the vines in spring and summer. The yield is 45 hectolitres per hectare, and during the harvest – which is still carried out exclusively by hand – it is the winemaker who decides which grapes go into this wine. The must ferments in stainless-steel tanks, where it is monitored and gently stirred; malolactic fermentation and ageing then take place in barriques. This is nothing new in Andrian: Lagrein was already one of the first wines to be aged in barriques there.

In 1987, Paolo Foradori coined a term that changed South Tyrol's wine world: "Vigna". Not as a marketing idea, but as a conviction – that a wine only shows its true character when it comes from a single, clearly defined vineyard. Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano was the first South Tyrolean winery to put this philosophy on its label. Today, a generation later, Martin Foradori-Hofstätter continues to pursue this idea with the same rigour and the term "Vigna" has found its way throughout South Tyrol. Mazon is the absolute cru location for South Tyrolean Pinot Nero – a gentle high plateau on the cooler eastern side of the Adige Valley, at 450 metres, where clay-limestone soils lie above the so-called Werfen formation: heterogeneous sedimentary rocks that give the soil a mineral depth that is unmistakably evident in the wine. The vines at Vigna San Urbano are over 65 years old – roots that reach deep enough to keep calm even in difficult years.

Born of fire. This is how the Cantina Terlan describes the red porphyry rock, between whose slopes the vineyards have nestled like small sun terraces. The rock is of volcanic origin, millions of years old, and it gives the area its unmistakable character – the wines their minerality, the cellar its façade, the wine its name. The porphyry is Terlan's red answer to the question of what Lagrein can be if you think it through to the end. No compromises. Three selected single vineyard sites, whose vines are almost a century old. Old vines yield little – but what they do yield is the sum of a long life in the grape flesh. Manual harvesting, destemming, slow maceration in steel – and then: 18 months exclusively in barrique, a third of which is new. No large wooden barrels, no compromises. Only barrique, only concentration, only depth.

Mazon is not silent. If you listen carefully, you can hear something different in every vintage – sometimes warmth, sometimes coolness, sometimes the Alpine downdraughts that sweep across the plateau in the evening and sharpen the flavours of the grapes. The 2020 is a vintage that listens and responds: fresh, transparent, with a precision in the fruit that only emerges in calm conditions. The Barthenau estate, built 150 years ago by Ludwig Barth von Barthenau, has belonged to the Foradori-Hofstätter family for decades. The single vineyard Vigna San Urbano – south Tyrol's first officially classified single-vineyard wine, declared a "Vigna" by Paolo Foradori in 1987 – lies at the heart of this estate. Clay-limestone over the Werfen formation, vines over 65 years old, a site that gives the Pinot Nero what it needs: mineral subsoil, cool nights and the time it deserves. Harvested entirely by hand, completely destemmed. Fermentation in concrete vats, ten days of skin contact with remontage. Then twelve months in barrique, eight months in large cask, eight months in bottle – always in the cellars of Barthenau, where the temperature remains constant and the wine finds its own peace.

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.