The best riservas of South Tyrol

Count Otto Huyn (1927-1998) embodied the last splendour of the traditional South Tyrolean aristocracy – a nobleman from Eberstein in Carinthia, who owned his best vineyards in Siebeneich near Terlan, thus continuing a centuries-old winemaking tradition of the Tyrolean aristocracy. His privileged plots at an altitude of 250-300 metres, characterised by weathered porphyry soils of volcanic origin, were already considered the crown jewels of South Tyrolean viticulture during his lifetime. The Bolzano winery honours this heritage with its Collection Otto Graf Huyn, a selection that comes exclusively from the top vineyards of the historic estate, personally selected by the cellar master. The unique terroir of Siebeneich, where warm, sun-exposed slopes meet the nutrient-rich weathered soils of the Bolzano porphyry, creates ideal conditions for Bordeaux grape varieties. The cuvée of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc benefits from the continental character of this location: warm days and cool nights give the grapes the concentration and finesse that characterise this Riserva.

Downdraught. The name is not marketing – it is pure meteorology. Every evening, cool air masses descend from the Mendel Mountains and sweep over the vineyards of Appiano, Caldaro and Cortaccia. These evening downdraughts give the entire terroir of the winery its character: they slow down ripening, maintain freshness and give the wines the flavour and longevity that cannot be taken for granted in this region. Merlot and Cabernet have been grown here since 1850, and the two varieties are vinified separately for the Riserva – in stainless steel tanks, followed by malolactic fermentation and ageing in barriques and tonneaux. After around a year, they are blended and mature further in steel. The Merlot brings soft tannins and fullness, the Cabernet structure and reverberation. The vineyards are located in the warmest areas of the municipalities of Appiano, Caldaro and Cortaccia, south to south-east facing, on calcareous gravel and moraine soils.

The Oberkofler family has been running the ancient Bachmannhof farm since 1853 and Pinot Nero has found its second home in South Tyrol for over a century – nowhere is this rootedness more evident than at the Bachmann from the steep vineyards around Bolzano. Between 600 and 700 metres above sea level, the vines thrive on mineral-rich soils, where cool nights and sunny days create the finesse that combines Burgundian elegance with Alpine clarity.

Cabernet Sauvignon is considered a traveller – an international grape variety that arrives everywhere and rarely really settles down. In Margreid, it does. Lafot Riserva is not a cosmopolitan Cabernet here, it is a South Tyrolean one. The vineyards at the foot of the slope of Margreid, 220 to 350 metres, south-southeast, white limestone gravel soil with deep humus – it is the same terroir that gives Levad Merlot its minerality. Cabernet Sauvignon, however, needs more time to open up: Hand-picking, destemming, fermentation in steel tanks with gentle mash agitation, then twelve months in barriques and a further year in the bottle. The result is not a quick wine.

The only thing that has actually changed is the name. The Unterthiner family have always vinified their Pinot Noir in the manner befitting a serious Pinot Noir – with the necessary time in the cellar. The wine matures in small wooden barrels for at least twelve months, often longer, because at the Ebnerhof decisions are never made according to the calendar, but according to taste. This ageing period meets the DOC requirements for a Riserva, so the wine now bears this designation. The approach remains unchanged: following a selective hand-harvest from the limestone-rich, sandy south-facing slopes, the wine undergoes controlled maceration in stainless-steel tanks before being transferred to small wooden barrels, which lend it depth and complexity.

The name "Mimuèt" (to my taste) comes from Ladin. Convinced that South Tyrol offers the best conditions for the Pinot Noir grape variety, Alois Lageder paid particular attention to it at a very early stage. His goal is to produce wines with precision, lightness and filigree structure. Garnet red with ruby reflexes. Pinot Noir Mimuèt smells of ripe black cherries, flowers and spices. On the palate, elegant, almost light on its feet, with a multi-layered, soft finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The evening fall winds of the Mendel Mountains characterise the entire terroir of the St. Michael-Eppan winery. They ensure cool nights and give the grapes those extraordinary characteristics that characterise the aromas, unmistakable freshness and longevity of the wines. The fall wind is the natural force that blows over the vineyard every day, positively influencing the climate and supporting the valuable work of the winegrowers at the cooperative winery.

This wine owes its name to the evening fall winds of the Mendel Mountains – the natural force that blows over the vineyards of Eppan, Kaltern and Pinzon every evening and gives the entire terroir its unmistakable character. These cool breezes ensure pronounced temperature fluctuations between day and night, characterise the aromas of the grapes and give the wines the extraordinary freshness and longevity that make them precise ambassadors of their origin. At altitudes between 350 and 550 metres, on moraine debris and calcareous gravel, the Pinot Nero thrives under these special conditions to produce a Riserva of Burgundian elegance. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for twelve months in barriques and tonneaux. This is followed by assemblage before further refinement in concrete vats. The Riserva classification requires at least two years of ageing.

Pinzon. A vineyard site that has long been regarded by connoisseurs as synonymous with South Tyrolean Pinot Noir of the highest calibre. This small wine-growing village on the eastern side of the Adige Valley, first mentioned in records in 1230, lies amidst the vineyards that, along the Pinot Noir Trail, are counted amongst Italy’s finest Pinot Noir terroirs. Here, at an altitude of around 550 metres in the municipality of Montan, Peter Zemmer cultivates his vines on porphyry soils with deposits of dolomite carbonate rock – —a geological combination that lends the wine its characteristic minerality. The microclimate of the site is shaped by its elevation above the Adige floodplain and its north-westerly aspect, which grants the vineyards long hours of evening sunshine. The ‘Ora’, that famous valley wind which rises from Lake Garda through the Adige Valley, cools the vines in the afternoon and regulates humidity – ideal conditions for this demanding Burgundian variety.

In the local dialect, ‘Giatl’ means ‘small plot of land’ – and this name is steeped in history. The ten-hectare single vineyard in the valley floor of Kurtinig a.d.W. is one of the most exceptional terroirs for Pinot Grigio in the South Tyrolean Unterland. On sandy alluvial soils with calcareous gravel, vines grafted onto low-vigor rootstocks thrive here under ideal conditions, trained using the Guyot system. The unique microclimate of this sun-drenched spot is shaped by two contrasting wind systems: the warm ‘Ora’ blows northwards from Lake Garda in the afternoons, tempering the daytime heat, whilst at night cool downdrafts from the Dolomites provide relief. These extreme temperature fluctuations allow for long, slow ripening phases whilst perfectly preserving acidity and concentrating the aromas. Following hand-harvesting and destemming, a short cold maceration takes place to emphasise the fruitiness. The gently pressed grapes are clarified through natural sedimentation before alcoholic fermentation takes place in small and large French oak barrels (12 months) and in stainless steel tanks (6 months). Yeast ageing lends the wine valuable complexity and depth, whilst further months of bottle ageing round off its profile.

The porphyry-rich steep slopes on the Ritten above Bolzano offer first-class conditions for producing a Sauvignon Bianco with unique fruit, minerality, elegance and depth. Straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Precise fruity flavours of gooseberry, elderflower, herbs, yeast and a fine woody note. Harmonious flavour with very well-integrated acidity, an accentuated body and an elegant mineral note. Long and deep on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Furggl is a field name that sticks in the memory. In the municipality of Auer, in the heart of South Tyrol’s Unterland region, this single vineyard is situated on alluvial soils composed of limestone and porphyry gravel, interspersed with sand and loam. A terroir that offers the late-ripening Lagrein exactly what it needs: warmth, depth and the soil moisture that ensures a consistent supply of water even in dry years. The vines, grafted onto low-vigor rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system, yield concentrated harvests of just 45 hectolitres per hectare. Following the hand-harvest in early October, the destemmed grapes first undergo a one-day cold maceration before fermentation takes place at 28–30 °C over ten days. Regular pumping over and gentle submersion keep the must in contact with the skins – , allowing colour pigments and fruit aromas to permeate the heart of the wine. After two careful rackings, the long ageing process begins: 12 months in French barriques, followed by 6 months in stainless steel, then a further 6 months of bottle ageing. Only after a total of 24 months’ ageing does this wine reach the customer – ready to drink, yet with the potential to age for a decade or more.

The steep porphyry slopes at an altitude of up to 650 metres on the Ritten above Bolzano offer ideal conditions for vinifying this powerful yet elegant Chardonnay with outstanding balance, well-integrated acidity and excellent ageing potential. Straw yellow in colour with greenish inclusions. Pure exotic flavours of pineapple, mango and white peach on the nose, underpinned by a delicate vanilla note. Powerful on the palate, the well-integrated acidity keeps it fresh and mineral despite its power and complexity, right through to an almost infinitely long finish. A great Chardonnay from South Tyrol! SUPERIORE.DE

Punggl is a word from the dialect of the South Tyrolean lowlands that refers to a small hill. But this inconspicuous name stands for one of the region's most renowned vineyards: at the foot of the Fennberg, south of Margreid, rises the eponymous hill with its precious alluvial soils of fine sand, silt and clay deposits. Here, where the Mediterranean climate of the warm valley floor meets the thermals of the Alps, the Merlot finds ideal conditions for a ripeness that combines vigour and finesse. From April to October, constant air currents characterise the microclimate of the site. The warm afternoon wind that rises from Lake Garda through the Adige Valley and the cool morning breeze from the north create an interplay that allows the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. The vines, grafted onto low-growing rootstock and trained using the Guyot system, are tended with the utmost care.

Perfection is created when grape variety, terroir and microclimate form a perfect symbiosis. Thalman embodies this philosophy to perfection. This exceptional Pinot Nero comes from carefully selected vineyards on the Ritten and in Leitach between 500 and 750 metres above sea level, where warm, well-ventilated hills and volcanic porphyry soils create ideal conditions. The centuries-old Burgundy tradition finds its South Tyrolean interpretation here through a vinification process that combines respect for the grape variety with state-of-the-art cellar technology.

In the warm alluvial soils of Gries, where thirty visionary winegrowers laid the foundations for an extraordinary Lagrein tradition in 1908, one of the greatest wines in South Tyrol is still produced today. The Grieser Prestige embodies more than a century of accumulated experience with this indigenous grape variety, which forms the heart of Bolzano's wine culture like no other. Only the choicest grapes from the best vineyards with drastically reduced yields find their way into this Riserva – a selection that begins in the vineyard and is based on the highest quality standards.

Siebeneich is not a fantasy name. The small village to the west of Bolzano gives its name to the wine – and itself bears one of the oldest wine stories in South Tyrol. Archaeologists found vine knives from the late Iron Age here, which are considered the oldest evidence of prehistoric Weinwirtschaft in the region. Merlot on this soil: a young grape variety on ancient ground. Cellar master Rudi Kofler says that Merlot grows best in Terlan on the warm, south-facing clay slopes. This is exactly where Siebeneich is located – a terroir that gives this international variety the substance to tell the story of South Tyrol instead of imitating Bordeaux. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: 70 per cent in large wooden barrels, 30 per cent in barriques, one third of which are new. Power with control.

The vineyards for the 100% Pinot Noir Riserva are located in the Überetsch region between 350 and 450 metres above sea level and face south-west. The soil is a compact, dense moraine soil made up of sediments from the Ice Age, calcareous, loamy and rich in minerals. Bright ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of redcurrants, raspberries, strawberries and hints of sage. Taut and very polished on the palate, its spicy tannins flank its beautiful depth and very appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.

From old vines in the best Lagrein vineyards in Gries near Bolzano comes this Riserva, which is strictly limited every year and has a seductively chocolaty, fruity bouquet. Rich, dark purple in colour with a slightly lighter rim. On the palate, it is velvety and elegant with a soft fullness and lively freshness, with further fruity accents on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE