The best riservas in South Tyrol

From old vines in the best Lagrein vineyards in Gries near Bolzano comes this Riserva, which is strictly limited every year and has a seductively chocolaty, fruity bouquet. Rich, dark purple in colour with a slightly lighter rim. On the palate, it is velvety and elegant with a soft fullness and lively freshness, with further fruity accents on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Oberkerschbaum – the upper cherry orchard. The name encapsulates the everyday nature of mountain life: a farmstead named after the trees that lined its perimeter. What sets this plot apart from the ordinary, however, is its location. The vineyard is situated in Pochi di Salorno, in the Buchholz UGA, on the southernmost border of South Tyrol – where the province meets Trentino. At an altitude of 770 to 800 metres, facing south-west, on purely volcanic porphyry without any limestone content. No other Vigna vineyard belonging to the estate lies at such a high altitude; none has such consistently volcanic geology. The Sauvignon Bianco thrives here under extreme yet precise conditions: an exceptional amount of sunshine, amplified by the altitude; cool nights that slow down ripening and preserve freshness; and soil that transfers the volcano's minerality directly into the grapes. The "Vigna" classification, first introduced for Alto Adige by Paolo Foradori, denotes a plot that is in a class of its own. The "Riserva" designation of the 2023 vintage confirms the extended ageing process.

The new name suffix reveals what is important: Praun – which means "brown" in the local dialect – refers to the dark brown, phenolically fully ripe grape seeds and the brownish-woody structure of the stems. A sign of optimum physiological ripeness, a sign of exceptional grape quality. In the sun-drenched Siebeneich near Terlan, at an altitude of around 250 metres, Merlot finds ideal conditions. The warm, fertile alluvial soils of the Adige with their quartz porphyry content and the dry, hot microclimate produce concentrated, storable wines. After fermentation in wooden barrels, the wine matures for around a year in French barriques and large oak barrels – a combination that combines structure with elegance.

Lagrein is South Tyrolean through and through. The grape variety grows almost exclusively in this region, with a genetic origin that stretches further back in history than most other Central European varieties: pre-Roman, documented in historical records and unmistakable in character. Its historical home is Gries, now a district of Bolzano, where its potential was recognised early on and which gave it its name. The Pfitscher family has its roots in Montan, a municipality in the South Tyrolean Unterland, known above all for the Mazon vineyards and Pinot Nero. The fact that a Lagrein of this calibre is also produced here demonstrates the breadth of the terroir. The Griesfeld is the most consistent expression of this: 15 months in small oak barrels, which lend the Lagrein character and refined spice without overpowering it.

It was Paolo Foradori who made Mazon what it is today. He married into the Hofstätter family in 1959 and dedicated his life to a single project: proving that the high plateau east of the Adige Valley is the most important Pinot Noir site in Italy. The experts have proved him right. Mazon, at 350 to 460 metres, exposed on the north side, on the cooler east side of the South Tyrolean Adige Valley – with limestone gravel and clay soils, which are mineralised by the rock formations of the Werfen Formation – gives the Pinot Nero a depth, concentration and complexity that cannot be found anywhere else in this form. The Riserva is the expression of the entire plateau: the wine that Foradori in Mazon always had in mind. 100% hand-picked, completely destemmed harvest, fermentation in concrete vats with remontage. Then maturation in barriques, then again in concrete – a sequence that treats structure and freshness equally – and finally two years of bottle ageing before sale.

2023 proved a real challenge for South Tyrol's winegrowers. The year began with extremely dry conditions, followed by a cool, rainy spring. The summer remained damp, punctuated by three heatwaves – the persistent dampness significantly increased the risk of fungal disease and demanded meticulous work in the vineyard. Andreas Kofler, President of the South Tyrol Wine Consortium, described it as a "year of extreme weather". But then came autumn: golden, dry, with warm days and cool nights – exactly the conditions that brought late-ripening red grape varieties such as Lagrein to full maturity. The vines are situated at altitudes of 230 to 300 metres, facing west to south-west, on gravelly soils composed of limestone and porphyry with sand and clay components, ranging in age from 20 to over 100 years. After harvest, the wine matures for twelve months in barriques, then spends a further six months in concrete vats, and rests in the bottle for at least another six months after bottling before leaving the winery.

The "Vigna" classification guarantees and designates the origin of a single-vineyard wine in South Tyrol. The Pinot Bianco from the single vineyard San Michele from the Barthenau winery has a strong personality that fully unfolds after an additional year of ageing in the bottle. It has a rich bouquet of green apple and banana, a full-bodied flavour with plenty of fruit, a medium, finely balanced acidity and a long mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Noir is the most demanding grape variety in the world. It forgives nothing – no wrong soil, no climate that is too warm, no impatient hand in the cellar. It has found its place in Terlan: Since the middle of the 19th century, Pinot Noir has thrived in the medium-high sites of the Monticol zone, at 450–760 metres, on light, weathered porphyry soils, where downdraughts provide cooling even at the height of summer. Rudi Kofler has long since said the decisive sentence: "The older vineyards produce a well-structured and, above all, elegant Pinot Noir." Elegance is not a marketing term here – it is the logical consequence of the location, soil and ripening process.

Bordeaux grandeur meets South Tyrolean clarity: Mumelter Cabernet embodies this union in its purest form. Named after the south-facing Mumelterhof estate near Bolzano, where, at an altitude of 330 metres, weathered porphyry soils and a sub-Mediterranean microclimate allow the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to develop to their full potential. This cuvée of two Bordeaux classics combines the best of both worlds: the structure and power of Cabernet Sauvignon with the elegance and finesse of Cabernet Franc.

In the historic vineyards of Mazon and Glen, where two micro-terroirs between 400 and 600 metres above sea level merge to form a poetic name, one of the most subtle interpretations of Pinot Nero in the whole of South Tyrol thrives. The fine Pinot Noir grapes ripen in a climate of extreme contrasts on sandy clay soils that lean westwards towards the evening sun. The Mediterranean warmth of the day meets the icy mountain winds of the night – a dialogue between passion and restraint that gives the Pinot Nero complexity and elegance. Ruby to garnet red in colour in the glass, with aromas of sour cherries and wild berries, accompanied by delicate orange notes and spicy hints. Fine fruit unfolds on the palate with a salty freshness, delicate, elegant and with a length that lingers in the memory long after the last sip. A Pinot Nero that combines Burgundian soul with Alpine precision, destined for a decade of ageing and beyond. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigna Crivelli is one of the most renowned white wine vineyards in the South Tyrolean Unterland. Named after Count Crivelli, a leading member of an ancient noble family from Margreid, the Chardonnay thrives here on alluvial soils of fine sand with silt and clay deposits under ideal conditions. The unique microclimate of this single vineyard is characterised by strong downdrafts from the Fennberg and the daily southerly wind, the ‘Ora’, which ensures perfect aeration of the grapes. The marked day-night temperature fluctuations allow for a long ripening period with optimal aroma development. The vines are planted on low-growth rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system.

Lagrein is South Tyrol's great indigenous red grape variety – and in the Linticlarus version, it reveals its full potential. The name pays homage to the Roman Castrum Linticlar, the ancient fortress above the vineyard, whose history dates back to the Stone Age. The Linticlarus selection is produced only in exceptional vintages. The grapes come from the Breitbach, Gruben and Milla vineyards near Entiklar, at altitudes of 230 to 300 metres. The calcareous, sandy alluvial soils lend the wine mineral depth and structure. Following fermentation on the skins in stainless steel, the wine spends 12 months in barriques – more than a third of which are new – followed by 6 months in large oak casks and a further year of bottle ageing.

The Sanct Valentin line is the centrepiece of the St. Michael-Eppan winery and the Cabernet-Merlot is its only red cuvée. It has been part of this prestigious line since 2013, and the decision was a conscious one: not an experiment, but a red wine with the same claim to minerality, complexity and longevity that the white Sanct Valentin wines have embodied for decades. The vineyards are located in the warmest areas of the municipalities of Appiano, Caldaro and Cortaccia – at 250 to 400 metres, exposed to the south-west, on gravel moraine soils that drain exceptionally well and demand the concentration from both Cabernet and Merlot that makes extreme yield reduction possible in the first place. Merlot from the beginning of October, Cabernet in mid-October – hand-picked, individual selection, separate vinification. 20 days of maceration, 12 months in barriques and tonneaux. After blending, a further 10 months in steel to round off.

Vorberg – the name gives away its location: on the steep southern slopes of the Tschöggelberg, at altitudes between 450 and 650 metres, a Pinot Blanc thrives that reveals the full potential of this famous South Tyrolean grape variety. The stony, sandy-loam soils, formed from weathered porphyry, with their high quartz content and slightly acidic pH levels, characterise a terroir of extremes: high water permeability, limited nutrient availability and naturally restricted yields. This microstress elicits unique, terroir-specific polyphenols from the vines. Hand-harvested, gently pressed as whole bunches, followed by natural sedimentation. Slow fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in large oak barrels (70 and 30 hl), followed by partial malolactic fermentation and 12 months' ageing on the fine lees in traditional wooden barrels.

The grapes for the Cortazo are grown in the hot Brenntal vineyard in Kurtatsch, which is ideal for ensuring the Cabernet Sauvignon reaches the required level of ripeness. A deep ruby red colour. A harmonious bouquet of violets and wild berries. On the palate, it is full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core of fruit and subtle extract sweetness, velvety tannins and a long finish. Excellent Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

At the Wangger estate in Leitach, where moraine debris and sandy alluvial soil characterise the south-eastern slopes at altitudes of between 260 and 300 metres, Lagrein grows in soil that forges resilience through strength. Here, in the classic growing region near Bolzano, where this indigenous variety has found its fullest expression for generations, Hans Terzer hand-selects the grapes that hold the potential to age for more than a decade. Twelve months in barriques, followed by blending – only when the wine's true structure is revealed. A further six months in large oak casks to perfect the harmony.

Doran is no accident. This wine demonstrates what happens when French Chardonnay clones meet South Tyrolean limestone soils. The Andrian Winery takes exactly the time this Riserva needs: twelve months in tonneaux, 30% of which are new French oak barrels. This is the Burgundian school in its purest form. The grapes come from the highest vineyards around Andrian, at altitudes of between 350 and 450 metres. There, the calcareous loam soil is interspersed with white dolomite rock. The microclimate makes all the difference: cooler temperatures than elsewhere, a longer ripening period, and higher acidity. Perfect for a Chardonnay with ambition. Cellar master Rudi Kofler opts for full fermentation in wood. Regular bâtonnage ensures that the oak integrates elegantly, without ever becoming overpowering. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for a further three months in stainless steel – to achieve the final balance between opulence and freshness.

Mathias is one of the top wines. Together with the Pinot Nero Riserva Matan and the Cortazo red wine cuvée, it forms the top tier of Pfitscher’s quality pyramid. A white wine that offers the most complete picture of the vineyard of the same name and the family’s philosophy. The soils on which it grows are unique: grey porphyry and sandy-limestone rock dust. Two geological worlds in a single vineyard: the volcanic depth of the porphyry and the mineral-driven precision of the Alpine limestone. As James Suckling once put it, this captures the essence: "Wild herbs, gentian root, flint, white currant – with a literally breathtaking mineral freshness on final." A Sauvignon that doesn’t scream of fruit, but speaks of its terroir.

Perched on a rocky outcrop above Atzwang, on the Ritten sun-drenched plateau, lies the Ebner Winery, now run by the third generation of the Unterthiner family. "Fetter Acker" is the name of a historic single vineyard in the Eisack Valley, mentioned as far back as in ancient writings. The forty-year-old vines are rooted in volcanic porphyry, facing south-east, at an altitude of around 450 metres, in an Alpine-Mediterranean climate and sheltered from the north winds. The yield is around 45 hectolitres per hectare, and the Riserva is produced exclusively from this plot. The grapes undergo five hours of cold maceration on the skins, are gently pressed, and the must is clarified through natural settling; fermentation takes place under temperature control in oak barrels. The wine matures on its fine lees for 36 months in oak, 24 months in stainless steel and six months in the bottle before being released for sale.

Pinot Nero has always been regarded as a challenge for any winemaker. It is a grape variety that places the highest demands on soil, climate and the winemaker's expertise. This noble Burgundian grape has been cultivated in South Tyrol since 1850, where, under the name Blauburgunder, it has become the region's most important red wine. For the Sanct Valentin Pinot Nero, which has been part of the winery's prestige range since 1995, only the finest and oldest vineyards in Eppan and the surrounding area are selected – plots situated between 400 and 550 metres above sea level on moraine deposits and calcareous gravel. Minimal yields and meticulous care in the vineyard form the foundation for a wine of exceptional finesse. The grapes are harvested by hand from late September to early October. Following a three-day cold maceration, fermentation begins in stainless-steel tanks, followed by gentle pressing. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent ageing take place in barriques and tonneaux. After around twelve months, the wine is blended, before undergoing a further six months of ageing in large wooden casks – a combination that blends structure with Burgundian elegance.