Etna Wines

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

In September 1911, lava from an eruption that formed the north-eastern crater of Mount Etna covered part of the old vineyards at Dafara Galluzzo. When Giuseppe Benanti founded his winery in 1988, the vineyards were located in Castiglione di Sicilia and Milo. Rovittello is part of Castiglione, and it is there that Dafara Galluzzo lies at an altitude of 750 metres on the northern slope of Mount Etna. The Nerello Mascalese vines grow as low bushes on small terraces, supported by dry stone walls made of lava rock, in sandy, mineral-rich volcanic soil, in a humid climate with significant temperature variations. Amongst the predominantly young vines are a few that are over a hundred years old and ungrafted. The grapes are harvested by hand at the end of October. The destemmed berries remain on the mash in stainless steel for around 21 days, with fermentation carried out by yeast from the vineyard itself. The wine is then aged for twelve months in used French tonneaux, followed by ageing in stainless steel tanks, and around ten months of bottle ageing.

Animanaturale from vines over 60 years old is the lightest and freshest wine from the new Animaetna line of the small garage winery Contrada Santa Spirito, which belongs to Feudo Maccari. Matured almost entirely in amphorae, the Nerello Mascalese grape presents itself here in all its fruitiness and freshness, completely unadulterated and pure. The grapes are foot-pressed, spontaneous fermentation is carried out using the grapes' own yeasts, racking and bottling take place according to the phases of the moon. On the palate, the flavours of red fruits and berries are tangy and vibrant with a precise and very mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Whilst the Bianco from Cavaliere captivates with its freshness and salinity, the Rosso reveals the other side of this exceptional terroir: Burgundian elegance, volcanic depth and a tannin structure of silky precision. At an altitude of 900 metres on the south-western slope of Mount Etna – higher than most of Etna's vineyards – 50-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines are trained using the Guyot system. The skeletal volcanic sands, with their sub-acidic profile and excellent drainage, force the roots deep into the soil. Low rainfall, abundant sunshine and dramatic day-night temperature fluctuations characterise a microclimate that endows the grapes with exceptional aromatic complexity. Hand-harvested in mid-October, destemmed, then 21 days of maceration at a controlled temperature using the estate's own Etna yeasts – the result of years of research. The wine matures for twelve months in French tonneaux, then in stainless steel, followed by ten months' ageing in bottle.

A different location, a different profile: Contrada Calderana Sottana comes from a special place. In the Calderana Sottana sub-zone, south-east of the summit, where the altitude begins and the soil consists of fine volcanic loam and sand, vines take root at over 700 metres, basking in the early morning sun, and shaped at night by cool temperatures and high-altitude winds – a terroir that fosters both intensity and freshness in equal measure. Made from 100% Nerello Mascalese, traditionally trained using the Alberello method, the wine undergoes controlled fermentation and a short maceration period, followed by ageing for around 12 months in tonneaux. This ageing process is regarded as a delicate art – it shapes and emphasises the wine’s character without overpowering it.

On the northern border with Guardiola, where the barren, steep slopes of the higher ground give way to gentle terraces, lies one of the most beautiful spots on Mount Etna: Santo Spirito. Here, where the slopes gently descend towards the Alcantara Valley, a paradox of nature is revealed. Whilst neighbouring Guardiola struggles with barren, stony soils, Santo Spirito boasts lush vegetation – deep, rich volcanic ash that nourishes a luxuriant carpet of grass and vigorous vines that display their bountiful vigour.

Just under 950 metres above sea level, on the south-western slope of Mount Etna, lies Contrada Cavaliere, a single vineyard that stands out even within the diverse world of Etna's Contrade. Less rainfall than elsewhere on the volcano, but abundant sunshine and dramatic temperature fluctuations between day and night: conditions that lend the Carricante that unmistakable intensity for which connoisseurs seek out this Contrada. The 50-year-old vines are rooted in skeletal volcanic sands with a sub-acidic profile – a soil that forces the plant to develop deep roots and guarantees low yields of just 6,000 kg per hectare. The grapes, harvested by hand in October and gently pressed, ferment in stainless steel tanks using the estate's own Etna yeast. The wine then rests on the fine lees for twelve months, stirred regularly, followed by a further six months of bottle ageing.

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

In 2007, Marco de Grazia discovered a tiny plot in Moganazzi – one of the two vineyards which, together with Guardiola, have always been regarded as the finest terroirs in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia. He bought it without hesitation. The problem: just three barriques of wine. Too little for the market. Too good not to be made. De Grazia decided to donate all the bottles to a charity project run by the Meyer Children's Hospital in Florence. He had his daughter Elena design the labels. The first ones were created when she was two years old. For ten years, Moganazzi was a gift to sick children. Then, in 2017, de Grazia managed to buy a neighbouring plot and lease another one. For the first time, Moganazzi appeared as an official Terre Nere cru.

Feudo di Mezzo is perhaps the largest Contrada in the entire Etna DOC – characterised by a consistent style, yet with marked differences in quality from plot to plot. Marco de Grazia compares it to the Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy: a vast territory capable of producing great wine in its finest parts, and merely good wine in its weaker ones. The best plot in Feudo di Mezzo – de Grazia's plot – is called: Il Quadro delle Rose. The Rose Plot. Castiglione di Sicilia, 650 metres, north-facing. 1.5 hectares, vines aged between 40 and 80 years on deep, ash-rich volcanic soils. 5,500 bottles per vintage. Il Quadro delle Rose is always the first vineyard to be harvested – and de Grazia explains why this shapes its character: the earlier harvest yields the most open, generous and soft wines of the entire estate.

An old, disused railway line runs through the countryside of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. It no longer goes anywhere – the rails are rusting, the land is slowly becoming overgrown. But it still exists as a border. It separates the Contrada Cottanera from the Contrada Diciasettesalme. And it gives this wine its precise geographical name: "beyond the railway". Diciasettesalme is one of the oldest vineyard names in Etna viticulture. Its name comes from a historical Sicilian unit of measurement – the salma, an area that a mule could plough in one day. Seventeen of these correspond to around 25 hectares. On this land, Nerello Mascalese grows on black lava sands and clay-rich volcanic soils at an altitude of 750 to 800 metres – one of the coolest and most exposed sites in the entire appellation area.

Gaia Gaja overheard two farmers in the vineyard. "Idda's in a bad mood today," said one. "Yes, I don't like it when I don't know what Idda's up to," replied the other. When Gaia asked who this Idda was, Alberto Graci explained: "That's what we call the mountain. Mount Etna. Feminine, capricious and maternal all at once – a force you live with and rely on every day." Angelo Gaja had known Mount Etna long before it became a project. In the 1990s, his friend Giacomo Tachis tried to persuade him to buy vineyards here. The sight of the black volcano with its snow-capped peak, seen from the air, remained etched in his memory. Decades later, he founded Idda together with Alberto Graci – making a conscious decision to focus on Carricante and to rediscover the south-western slope, that side of Etna often described as a 'counter-current', away from the more famous northern flank.

This is where it all began. In Viagrande, on the south-eastern slope of Mount Etna, where Giuseppe Benanti's grandfather planted the first vines at the end of the 19th century, lies the heart of the estate. The Contrada Monte Serra is no ordinary vineyard – it rises on an extinct volcanic cone that once erupted independently of the main crater, and whose pyroclastic deposits created a unique soil: light, rich in mineral matter, with exceptional drainage. At an altitude of just 450 metres, closer to the Ionian Sea than the other Contrade, the grapes ripen earlier here and develop a softer, more approachable elegance. The vines – some over 100 years old – are trained in the traditional "alberello" style on small terraces with dry stone walls made of lava rock, at an extremely high density of 9,000 vines per hectare. The sandy volcanic soils are rich in "ripiddu", the characteristic small pumice fragments found on Mount Etna.

Giuseppe Benanti founded his winery in 1988; ten years later, he moved to Viagrande, the area from which his grandfather had originally come. On the south-eastern flank of Mount Etna, Monte Serra, an ancient volcanic cone, rises up. It was formed by an eruption through its own vent, separate from Etna's magma chamber, and left behind light ejecta: sandy volcanic soil with small pieces of pumice, so well-drained that the roots must dig deep in search of water. At altitudes of 450 to 500 metres, the vineyard is predominantly planted with young Carricante vines, trained in a bush style, at a density of around 8,000 per hectare. The grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. After destemming and gentle pressing, the must ferments for around 15 days in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, using a yeast strain that Benanti has selected itself in the vineyard following years of research. Twelve months on the fine lees, with regular stirring, followed by six months' ageing in the bottle.

Contrada Sciaranuova Bianco delivers an expressive portrait of the volcano – a white wine of crystalline clarity, grown at an altitude of 850 metres on the northern flanks of Mount Etna in the Contrada of the same name near Passopisciaro. The vines – almost exclusively Carricante – are deeply rooted in layers of lava rich in iron and ash, characterised by a strong day-night amplitude and a cool microclimate. The 2022 vintage was phenomenal in Sicily: a fresh spring, a moderate summer and a long ripening phase until October allowed for a precise harvest with excellent freshness and mineral expression.