wines

When Luciano and Luca Sandrone first set eyes on the concave hill of Valmaggiore in the 1990s, it was love at first sight. It wasn't just history that moved them – in the 19th century, the Nebbiolo grapes from this vineyard dictated the price for the entire area – but above all the unique combination of sandy soils and the microclimate of this natural amphitheatre. In Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro in the Roero, lies this south-facing single vineyard with extremely steep slopes, where soft sandy soils give the Nebbiolo the finesse and elegance for which the Roero region is famous.

Celestino Gaspari stood next to Giuseppe Quintarelli – in that cellar in San Pietro in Cariano, which is a place of pilgrimage for many wine lovers. He learnt the language of the Appassimento, the patience of the large barrels, time as an instrument. Anyone who knows this will be surprised when they look at the Metodo Classico label: dancing bubbles, delicate and light, like the exact opposite of what Zýmē is known for. That is the intention.

It was Paolo Foradori who made Mazon what it is today. He married into the Hofstätter family in 1959 and dedicated his life to a single project: proving that the high plateau east of the Adige Valley is the most important Pinot Noir site in Italy. The experts have proved him right. Mazon, at 350 to 460 metres, exposed on the north side, on the cooler east side of the South Tyrolean Adige Valley – with limestone gravel and clay soils, which are mineralised by the rock formations of the Werfen Formation – gives the Pinot Nero a depth, concentration and complexity that cannot be found anywhere else in this form. The Riserva is the expression of the entire plateau: the wine that Foradori in Mazon always had in mind. 100% hand-picked, completely destemmed harvest, fermentation in concrete vats with remontage. Then maturation in barriques, then again in concrete – a sequence that treats structure and freshness equally – and finally two years of bottle ageing before sale.

When French noble vines were planted in the Tuscan soil of Felsina's Podere Molinuzzo in 1998, a visionary experiment of extraordinary boldness began. Pinot Nero in Tuscany? A seemingly impossible endeavour in a region dominated by Sangiovese. But Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Franco Bernabei, who had already initiated the Sangiovese revolution with the legendary Fontalloro, once again dared to do the impossible: to cultivate the Burgundian king grape variety under the Tuscan sun. The vineyard, which covers just 2.5 hectares, is strategically located on the border between Felsina and Castello di Farnetella, on soils of sand and clay with a significant stony and calcareous component. This geological peculiarity, combined with the cooler microzone of Podere Molinuzzo, creates ideal conditions for a grape variety that elsewhere in Italy only thrives in the foothills of the Alps.

Bright ruby colour with a purple shimmer. The bouquet is fresh and youthful: red cherries, crisp plums, a hint of cranberry and subtle floral nuances. Straightforward on the palate, with clear fruit, present, animating acidity and a fine spicy finish. Thanks to its maturation in stainless steel, it is particularly appealing to drink and shows the unadorned, fruit-emphasised character of the grape variety. A juicy and serious Barbera that clearly expresses its origins and is great fun even when young. SUPERIORE.DE

In a privileged plot south of the legendary Bricco Boschis lies the Cavallottos' insider tip: Vigna Cuculo. Here, where normally only Nebbiolo should grow, the brothers Giuseppe and Alfio have achieved an oenological miracle – a Barbera cru that combines its Piedmontese soul with the aristocratic elegance of its great Barolo neighbours. The name "Cuculo" – the cuckoo – could not be more poetic for this wine, which asserts itself like a stranger in royal territory while developing its very own identity. The plot benefits from the unique microclimate of Bricco Boschis, that geological treasure where different soils meet in a symphony of limestone, marl and sand layers. This soil complexity gives the Barbera grape a minerality and structure that goes far beyond what is normally expected from this grape variety. West-south-west exposure and the chalky-clayey soils create ideal conditions for a wine of exceptional depth.

Rubatsch is a vineyard in Terlan at 250 metres, on a south-western slope with sandy soil on weathered porphyry rock. Two thirds of the Lagrein vines for this wine are rooted here, while the remaining third comes from the Seehof vineyard in Caldaro, where the soil is loamier and heavier. Two soils, two characters, one indigenous grape variety that belongs to South Tyrol like the Dolomites belong to the horizon.

Siccagno is Arianna Occhipinti's personal monologue about Nero d'Avola – not a loud one, but a concentrated, quiet and deep-breathing one. The name comes from the Sicilian term for dry farming (sicco) and aptly describes the origin of this wine: deep-rooted vines in calcareous soils near Vittoria, not irrigated, consciously entrusted to nature. 2021 was a year with clear light, good aeration and a vegetative cycle without extreme heat or stress – perfect conditions for a subtly structured vintage. The grapes are harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts and macerated on the skins for around 30 days. The wine is matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels – no haste, no fining, no filtering. Just patience and trust in what the soil tells us.

Just like the famous I Sistri, the “Collezione Privata” is a single-varietal Chardonnay. Since the early 1980s, the former LitersGiovanni Mazzocolin had sourced some of his Chardonnay vines from Burgundy, and so a micro-site was cultivated here right up until the 2000s; the grapes from this site are used to produce the gently vinified “I Sistri Collezione Privata” is made. A bright, intense straw-yellow colour with golden highlights. A delicately reductive nose of spices, peach and exotic fruits, with subtle hints of vanilla. Creamy and full-bodied on the palate; the perfectly balanced acidity lends it structure, whilst the fresh juice, combined with a mineral-salty note, carries this complex white wine into an exciting and spicy finish of quince and orange. The clearly recognisable Burgundian style of this great Chardonnay will continue to develop with further bottle ageing, not least due to the subtle barrique ageing. Very attractive at an even more attractive price! SUPERIORE.DE

The Conca d'Oro – the golden basin. This is what the winegrowers of Panzano call the natural depression in the terrain south of Greve, where the sun arrives earlier and stays longer than elsewhere in Chianti Classico. The slope, the Galestro-Alberese soil, the air circulation between the hills: everything comes together to create a microclimate that gives the Sangiovese the depth and fruit ripeness that is exceptional elsewhere, year after year. Gagliole lies at the centre of it all – a small, carefully managed winery that has been showing what Panzano can achieve in this price range since the Riserva première in the 2018 vintage. 100% Sangiovese from vines over twenty years old, organically farmed, hand-picked, fermented in steel. What follows is a well thought-out ageing process: ten months in small used oak barrels, then five months in cement tanks – a combination that gives the wine structure without over-moulding it. Only 11,000 bottles.

In the annals of Sardinian wine history, Angialis marks a turning point – the moment when Antonio Argiolas realised that the island could not only produce great dry wines, but also sweet wines of exceptional complexity. The name Angialis, derived from the mystical angelic figures of Sardinian folklore, refers to the almost supernatural quality of this wine, which is made from late harvested grapes of the autochthonous Nasco and Malvasia di Sardegna grape varieties. The vineyards of Serdiana offer ideal conditions for this delicate vinification: the warm autumn days and cool nights promote the natural concentration of the grapes, while the proximity to the sea provides the necessary humidity that favours the controlled development of botrytis. The grapes ripen here until November, developing the unique balance between sweetness and acidity that characterises Sardinian sweet wines. Vinification is carried out with the utmost care: hand-picked grapes are gently pressed and the must ferments slowly at controlled temperatures. The wine then matures for over two years in small oak barrels, where it develops its characteristic golden colour and complex aromatic structure. This long maturation gives Angialis the depth and elegance that distinguishes it from simple dessert wines.

The name carries three thousand years of history: the Etruscans called this land "Fèlsina" long before it was called Tuscany. When the shipowner Domenico Poggiali acquired the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga in 1966, it was primarily known for its olive oil – there were just two and a half hectares of vines on the 400 hectares. The Vin Santo epitomises the philosophy of the estate: respect for tradition, but no fear of the unconventional. Unlike most producers, Felsina not only uses Trebbiano and Malvasia, but also adds a proportion of Sangiovese – the grape variety that made the estate world-famous with Rancia and Fontalloro. The Sangiovese gives the sweet wine structure and colour, a hint of tannin and the elegance that characterises Felsina's wines.

A great Friulano from small plots: Paolo Meroi vinifies his single-varietal white wine from vines over 40 years old on barren flysch soils around Buttrio and Rosazzo – a terroir that provides depth and precision. The wine is matured traditionally in barriques with long lees contact, which gives the wine structure and subtle maturity. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose is complex and finely interwoven: ripe pear, white peach, candied citrus fruit, lime blossom and a hint of herbal honey. Delicate hints of hazelnut, beeswax and wet stone in the background. Powerful, silky and elegantly textured on the palate. The acidity is well integrated and the salty minerality characterises the long, powerful finish. A Friulano of a special calibre – dense, complex and with an unmistakable character of origin. Paolo Merois' signature is palpable: authentic, precise, fully committed to Friuli. SUPERIORE.DE

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name says it all for a winery that has been one of the style-defining houses of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first to switch to organic farming here – back in 1988, when the word "organic" still raised eyebrows in the winegrowing world. Querciabella has been working biodynamically since 2000 and today cultivates the largest biodynamically certified vineyard area in Italy. The fact that Daniele Cernilli (Dr Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as no surprise to anyone who knows these wines. The Riserva combines Sangiovese from three of the best sites in Chianti Classico: Greve brings vibrancy and bright fruit, Radda taut tannins and dark berry notes, Gaiole riper fruit and distinctive limestone minerality. The altitude of between 350 and 550 metres ensures cool nights and slow ripening. Each parcel is vinified and matured individually in the cellar – micro-vinification, which preserves the terroir of each vineyard and only combines it into a multi-layered whole in the final blend. 16 months in French barriques and tonneaux lend structure without dominance.

The Colline Metallifere – the Metalliferous Hills – take their name from what people have been extracting from the ground here for thousands of years: copper, iron and silver. An ancient mining landscape, part of the UNESCO Geopark since 2024, set amongst volcanic and limestone soils that bear witness to three million years of geological history. 500 metres above sea level, in the Alta Maremma, Demeter biodynamic. Elisabetta Foradori – the woman who brought Teroldego back to life in Trentino – founded Ampeleia together with Giovanni Podini and Thomas Widmann, because they believed that this place, with Cabernet Franc, could express something it has never expressed elsewhere.

Like a precious legacy, this wine rests in the history of the patrician Serristori family, who acquired the land of Donoratico in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. Today, from the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that bears the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty whisper of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera, the DOC Bolgheri estate closest to the coast and at the same time the highest, the grapes ripen between the Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico site, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, while the subsoil is criss-crossed by marine flysch rock, a geological memory of seas long past.

In 1969, five years after the first Barolos and Barbarescos – , Bruno Giacosa bottled a Barbera for the first time. Not as a by-product, not as a clearance item, but as a statement in its own right: that Barbera, the everyday grape variety of the Langhe, is capable of more than its reputation suggests when treated with the right care. Today, this wine is one of the estate’s longest-standing labels. The grapes come from trusted vineyards in Neive and Alba – 30 to 38-year-old vines, facing south-west, from farmers with whom the estate has been working for decades. The vinification is rigorous and demonstrates just how seriously Giacosa takes this wine: 20 days of maceration in steel, full malolactic fermentation, followed by 14 months’ ageing in wood. For a Barbera d’Alba DOC, this is exceptional. The result is a wine that takes the grape variety far beyond its usual accessibility.

From the historic Mosconi cru hillside in Monforte d'Alba: Fides is Pio Cesare's clear commitment to the Barbera grape – for years from a singular parcel, with the strictest yield limits and tiny production. Hand-picked, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with around 30 days of maceration; malolactic fermentation takes place gently in tanks. Ageing: around 20 months in large oak barrels (botti), a small proportion in French barriques – enough to anchor depth and texture without masking the origin.

Illivio is a subtle bridge between Friuli's autochthonous self-image and international nobility – a cuvée of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Picolit, named after the charismatic founder of the estate, Livio Felluga, who sadly passed away in 2017. The vines grow on the characteristic Ponca soils of the Collio – marly, limestone-rich layers that lend the wines tension, minerality and depth. The 2022 vintage brought ideal conditions: a warm, sunny summer without extreme heat and a dry autumn ensured perfectly ripe, aromatically complex grapes.

Mauritius – a name that evokes dreams of tropical islands, but here it embodies the ancient Latin name for the small village of Moritzing, where one of South Tyrol's most successful red wine cuvées is produced on warm alluvial soils. At an altitude of just 250 metres, the vineyards in Moritzing and Gries benefit from the Mediterranean microclimate, which offers both the autochthonous Lagrein and the international Merlot optimal ripening conditions. This symbiosis of two grape variety worlds – the alpine vigour of Lagrein with the Burgundian elegance of Merlot – creates a wine of exceptional complexity.

Named after Cassian, the son of Count Michael Goëss-Enzenberg, who was born in 1996, the same year that Manincor opened its own winery. A name that stands for new beginnings, for the future, for the next generation. The cuvée combines six international grape varieties from the estate's best red wine sites: Manincor, Seehof and Panholzerhof, between 250 and 280 metres above sea level. Exposed to the south-east with a view of the lake, the vines are rooted in strong sandy loam soils interspersed with limestone gravel and glacial rock deposits – these plots are among the warmest sites in South Tyrol. Each grape variety is vinified separately. Mash fermentation takes place spontaneously in wooden vats with wild yeasts. The 16-month maturation in barriques (one third new wood) refines the structure without dominating the fruit. Blending only takes place shortly before bottling – the art of composition, in which character and individuality merge with solemnity and elegance.

Gianfranco Gallo has a phrase that he always repeats: "Wine needs time to show what it is." This is not modesty – it is an attitude that characterises his entire winery. Since 1992, all Vie di Romans wines have only been released on the market two years after the harvest. The Chardonnay that bears his name is the most personal expression of this conviction. The vineyard is located in Mariano del Friuli on glacial gravel soils deposited by the Isonzo over thousands of years – gravel-rich, mineral-rich, aerated. The bora winds from the east create pronounced temperature fluctuations between day and night, keeping Mediterranean ripeness and Alpine freshness in a rare combination. Late harvest to achieve maximum aromatic ripeness. Control over oxidation from the first moment. Fermentation at a controlled temperature, nine months on the lees in barriques, then bottle ageing.