wines

Feudo di Mezzo is one of the most prestigious contrade on the northern slope of Mount Etna, a place where viticulture and volcanic rock have had a symbiotic relationship for centuries. At an altitude of around 600 metres, old Nerello Mascalese vines take root here in porous, ferrous ash, interspersed with lava boulders and basalt veins – a soil that gives the wine finesse, tension and depth. Alta Mora is Cusumano's ambitious project on Etna, and Feudo di Mezzo epitomises this vision: single-varietal, rigorously selected, with maximum focus on origin and character. The 2019 vintage on Mount Etna was characterised by elegance: a cool spring followed by a long, dry summer with cool nights. The grapes ripened slowly and harmoniously, with fine phenolic ripeness and a balanced acidity structure. After manual harvesting, fermentation took place with gentle maceration, followed by 12 months of maturation in French tonneaux and a long period of rest in the bottle.

This Riesling is an exceptional phenomenon: it grows on the black, barren lava soils of northern Etna at an altitude of almost 900 metres – in a microclimate that is almost alpine. The grapes come from the historic Contrada Sciaranuova, a place shaped by the massive eruption of 1614. Wines of salty tension, cool precision and a depth that is unrivalled in southern Italy are produced here. Fermentation and ageing take place exclusively in stainless steel in order to preserve freshness and pure expression of origin. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a silver sheen. Crystal-clear citrus notes, green apple, white peach, smoke and a fine hint of petrol on the nose – subtle, not overpowering. Vibrant and slender on the palate, with focussed acidity, mineral density and a long, almost crystalline final. Great with oysters, scallops or purist Japanese cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

Verdeca is a grape variety that hardly anyone knows – and that is no coincidence. For centuries, it was used as the base material for vermouth, was rarely vinified as a single variety and was considered too unspectacular for its own bottle. Yet its history is an ancient one: Greek in origin, it probably arrived in Apulia with the first settlers and became native to the sandy limestone soils of Salento. Masseria Li Veli has given it a stage with the Askos project – and the wine critics have responded. Askos Verdeca is the only Apulian white wine ever to be honoured by Gambero Rosso with its Tre Bicchieri.

Intense garnet red colour with black-violet hues. Open, very complex aroma of blackcurrant, raspberry, blackberry, cherry and plum, accompanied by a hint of pepper and cinnamon. On the palate, it is an elegant, dry wine that leads into the remarkable Riserva-level finish with its extract sweetness, tannins and a fine liquorice note. SUPERIORE.DE

The vines from which the Chardonnay grapes for the Rio delle Rose come are over 80 years old. Fine, exotic and noticeably mineral bouquet of pome fruit, apple, citrus peel, white flowers, some flint and a hint of banana and pineapple. On the palate, it is driven forward, with beautiful pressure and juicy tension, then again this fine minerality in the further course and a very delicate, never-ending melt in the long, complex finish. Very balanced and big - with its subtle restraint and great personality, Rio delle Rose is for us one of the best Chardonnays from Friuli! SUPERIORE.DE

Vorberg – the name reveals the location: on the steep southern slopes of the Tschöggelberg, between 450 and 650 metres above sea level, a Pinot Blanc thrives that reveals the full potential of this famous South Tyrolean grape variety. The skeleton-rich, sandy-loamy soils from porphyry weathering with their high quartz content and slightly acidic pH values characterise a terroir of extremes: high water permeability, limited nutrient availability, naturally limited yields. Microstress that elicits unique, terroir-specific polyphenols from the vines. Hand-picking, gentle whole-cluster pressing, natural sedimentation. Slow fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in large oak barrels (70 and 30 hl), followed by partial malolactic fermentation and 12 months maturation on the fine lees in traditional wooden barrels.

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco is allowed to be bottled as Superiore – and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like small trees on chestnut wood poles. The eastern exposure and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and a white wine with an aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Etna. More floral and citrus-scented on the nose than the normal Carricante, the Superiore also has a little more body, acidity, depth and finesse. The elegant acidity makes it vibrantly fresh and long and ensures an exciting drinking flow and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for the Cortazo grow in the hot Brenntal vineyard in Kurtatsch, which favours the necessary ripeness of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich ruby red colour. Harmonious bouquet of violets and wild berries. Powerful and complex on the palate with a beautiful fruit centre and subtle extract sweetness, velvety tannins and a long finish. Very good Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Ronc di Vico's Refosco dal Peduncolo is a wine with rough edges - which is precisely why it is so fascinating. The autochthonous grape variety naturally brings depth, structure and an unmistakable flavour. The grapes come from old plots in the Colli Orientali, whose Ponca soils of marl and sandstone provide clarity and tension. The 2022 vintage offered ideal conditions for fully ripe, healthy harvest. After strict manual harvesting and a long maceration period, the wine matured for around 20 months in French barriques.

Here is a big, rich Rosso that is harmonious and impressive in all its components. The bouquet alternates between dried cherries and a fine tobacco note. The palate is taut and precise, in the style of the house, its body is supported by powerful tannins that make it an ideal and refined accompaniment to Tuscan cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

These are the rare moments when a wine combines everything: origin, character and that depth that is difficult to explain. "Titut Ros" is just such a wine - a single-varietal Merlot that is only made in very small quantities and exclusively from the oldest vines on the steep plots of Ronc di Vico. The deep roots of the vines, anchored in the barren Ponca soil of the Colli Orientali, characterise a fruit of rare intensity and clarity. Thanks to stable weather conditions, the 2022 vintage offered perfect ripeness with impeccable health - the grapes were hand-picked, meticulously selected and vinified with a long maceration period. The wine then matured for 18 months in new and used French barriques before finding its inner balance in the bottle.

In the hallowed halls of Casòn Hirschprunn, where history and innovation meet in the vaults of the 13th century, a red wine is created that epitomises the future of South Tyrolean viticulture. Here, in the middle of the 30 hectares of biodynamic vineyards between 230 and 360 metres above sea level, Alois Lageder ventured a visionary experiment in the 1980s: the cultivation of Tannat, an exotic grape variety from south-west France that proved to be exceptionally suitable for the Alpine future in the face of climate change. "Negli ultimi anni, ci siamo appassionati sempre di più al Tannat" – the Lageder family confesses their growing passion for this exceptional variety, which is immediately recognisable in the vineyard thanks to its characteristic red leaf stalks. What began as an experimental curiosity developed into a philosophy: not to celebrate the typicality of individual grape varieties, but to let the unique terroir of a vineyard speak for itself – a guiding principle based on the great châteaux of the Bordelais.

Guardiola is a name with weight on Etna. One of the highest and steepest cru sites in Sicily, between 800 and 1,000 metres above sea level, exposed to the harsh sun, cool winds and the contrasts of a volcanic climate, which shapes not only the landscape but also the character of the wine. The vines – predominantly Nerello Mascalese – are deeply rooted in lava rock and volcanic ash, the soil is lean, black and mineralised, a barren terroir that combines strength and elegance rather than playing them off against each other. The vintage brought ideal conditions for a wine with a firm but accessible structure: after a cool spring, the grapes ripened under consistently warm summer sunshine, accompanied by pronounced day-night differences. The grapes were harvest late, by hand, in small crates – a decisive moment for precision and balance. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine was matured in French oak barrels – not to dominate the wine, but to give it contour.

A summer that Europe remembers as hot – and Montalcino as surprising. The vines of Col d'Orcia, deeply rooted in the calcareous, clay-poor soils of the Orcia hill, showed in 2020 what biodynamic cultivation means in years of stress: resilience. Early bud burst after a mild winter, followed by a balanced spring with well-distributed rainfall. The summer remained warm, but without extreme heat phases – sporadic downpours at the end of August cooled the soil at the last moment and allowed the grapes to develop aromatic compounds instead of simply ripening. In addition, there were pronounced day-night temperature differences in September. Harvest from mid-September, clean and structured. The result has a character that Montalcino connoisseurs describe as "captivante": simultaneously accessible and enigmatic. Maceration for 18 to 20 days, shallow 150-hl steel tanks, gentle extraction. Three years in large barrels, twelve months in the bottle: Col d'Orcia's traditional vinification process – unchanged for decades because it works.

Keir Ansonica is the white answer to Keir Syrah, which is also aged in amphorae. A wine produced in small quantities of 2,000 bottles, which is neither clarified nor filtered and is an expression of both innovation and tradition.

In the amphitheatre of the Tuscan hills of Castellina lies a single vineyard site called Il Poggiale, whose history dates back to 1968, when Paolo Panerai united four historic Poderi into a visionary project. Here, on the limestone soils between 350 and 400 metres above sea level, only Sangioveto thrives – the noblest local variety of Sangiovese – supplemented by only a few per cent of the autochthonous Canaiolo and Colorino varieties.

Doran is no coincidence. It shows what happens when French Chardonnay clones meet South Tyrolean limestone soils. The Andrian winery takes exactly the time it needs for this Riserva: twelve months in tonneaux, 30% of which in new French barrels. This is the Burgundy school in its purest form. The grapes come from the highest vineyards around Andrian, between 350 and 450 metres above sea level. This is where the calcareous clay soil is interspersed with white dolomite rock. The microclimate makes all the difference: cooler temperatures than elsewhere, longer ripening time, more acidity. Perfect for a Chardonnay with high standards. Cellar master Rudi Kofler favours full fermentation in wood. Regular batonnage ensures that the wood is elegantly integrated and never becomes dominant. After malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for a further three months in stainless steel – for a final balance between opulence and freshness.

This single-vineyard Carricante comes from the small Montalto vineyard on the southern slope of Etna at an altitude of around 950 metres. It is the most balanced and at the same time most exciting of all Etna Bianco from Terre Nere in terms of its overall impression and flavour; the whole Etna package is present here in exactly the right dose: Minerality, salinity, fruitiness and a perfect hint of orange peel and flint on the nose. On the palate, it is vibrant and fine, with an almost Burgundian dimension, full of finesse and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Moscato Rosa is one of the aromatic treasures of South Tyrol – an autochthonous grape variety of beguiling elegance and extreme sensitivity. The vines grow at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres in locations exposed to the wind, where constant air movement disperses the moisture. This wind is essential for survival: even the slightest botrytis infestation would destroy the diverse aromatic components and weaken the colour intensity. The soils of porphyry, sand, clay and limestone facing south-south-west provide the perfect foundation for this rarity. Vinification follows the principles of red wine production, but with a shorter maceration period to avoid aggressive tannins. As soon as the desired characteristics are achieved, fermentation is interrupted by cooling – a precise moment that requires a sure instinct. The young wine remains in stainless steel until bottling, where it retains its aromatic freshness.

It was 2007 when Marc de Grazia tasted a 42-year-old Carricante for the first time – and that moment changed everything. Three different occasions, three different bottles, but always the same revelation: a wine of such impeccable beauty and youthful vigour despite its venerable age that the Etna pioneer knew immediately: he wanted to create a wine like this himself. This vision gave rise to Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito, a homage to the past and at the same time a manifesto for the future. In the Contrada Santo Spirito, at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres in Castiglione di Sicilia, the Carricante vines thrive on deep black volcanic soil, rich in ash from past eruptions. Here, where for centuries only red grapes were cultivated, Marc dared to do the seemingly impossible: world-class, single-varietal white crus.

Piaggia Riserva is pure elegance in a bottle: clear ruby red colour, almost impenetrable, very consistent. Raspberry compote, dried orange peel, roses, exotic spices and a hint of cocoa on the broodingbouquet. Silky and refined on the palate, with notes of violets, ripe red and black fruits in rapid succession. Its lively acidity retains exceptional finesse, although the primary fruit slowly asserts itself. Finishes long with a layer of sweet tannins and balsamic cherry flavours. Its finesse and balance are already astonishing at a young age, and the best will only come in a few years. SUPERIORE.DE

Between stone and altitude. The name already reveals where this wine gets its soul from: from the highest parcels of the Tenuta Costalunga in Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, where the ground gives way to bare rock at 300 to 350 metres. Cresasso – a word that describes precisely this encounter in the local dialect: where earth meets stone, where the Corvina must put down its deepest roots in the barren, calcareous moraine soil with its high proportion of skeleton and chalky white inclusions. Sergio Zenato's vision was to create a wine that celebrates Corvina Veronese in its purest form – without the accompaniment of Rondinella or Corvinone, without the appassimento technique of Amarone. Instead, a slight over-ripening on the vine, hand-picked in the second half of October, when the grapes have reached their maximum concentration. Vinification follows the rhythm of the fruit: 15 days of maceration at 25-26°C, then 24 months of ageing in French tonneaux, followed by at least a further year of bottle ageing. Time as an ally, not an adversary.

Traditionally vinified Barolo from the estate's best vineyards. Brilliant ruby red colour. Complex, spicy bouquet of liquorice, tobacco, dried flowers, violets and damp leaves. Very emphatic, firm and full-bodied on the palate. Its racy and forward style is flanked by tangible, robust tannins. Finishes with a fine sweetness, elegant and long. The already undisputed high level will continue to develop in full beauty over the next few years. SUPERIORE.DE